A numerical study of horizontal dispersion in a macro tidal basin

Tidal circulation in Cobscook Bay, a macro tidal basin, is simulated using the three-dimensional, nonlinear, finite element ocean model, QUODDY_dry. Numerical particles are released from various transects in the bay at different tidal phases and tracked for several tidal cycles. Initially, nearby particles in the main tidal channel experience a great deal of spreading and straining, and after a few tidal cycles, they are separated in different parts of the bay. The fundamental mechanism for particle dispersion is the chaotic advection that arises from long tidal excursions passing through many residual eddies. A loosely correlated, inverse relationship between the two dimensionless parameters, ν (the ratio of the residual current to the tidal current) and λ (the ratio of the tidal excursion to the main topographic scale), can be constructed for large values of ν. Several Lagrangian statistical measures are used to quantify and distinguish dispersion regimes in different parts of Cobscook Bay. It is found that the effective Lagrangian dispersion coefficient can be estimated using the product of the magnitude of residual currents and the tidal excursion.     

Tidal inlet response to sediment infilling of the associated bay and possible implications of human activities: the Marennes-Oléron Bay and the Maumusson Inlet,France

Tidal inlet characteristics are controlled by wave energy, tidal range, tidal prism, sediment supply and direction and rates of sand delivered to the inlet. This paper deals with the relations between inlet and lagoon evolutions, linked by the tidal prism. Our study is focused on the Maumusson Inlet and the Marennes-Oléron Bay (first oyster farming area in Europe), located on the western coast of France. The tidal range (2–6 m) and wave climate (mean height: 1.5 m) place this tidal inlet system in the mixed energy (tide, waves), tide-dominated category. The availability of high-resolution bathymetric data since 1824 permits to characterise and quantify accurately morphological changes of both the inlet and the tidal bay. Since 1824, sediment filling of the tidal bay has led to a 20% decrease in its water volume, and a 35% reduction of the inlet throat section. Furthermore, the bay is subjected to a very high anthropic pressure, mainly related to oyster farming. Thus, both natural and human-related processes seem relevant to explain high sedimentation rates. Current measurements, hydrodynamic modelling and cross-sectional area of the inlet throat are used in order to quantify tidal prism changes since 1824. Both flood and ebb tidal prism decreased by 35%. Decrease in the Marennes-Oléron Bay water volume is inferred to be responsible for a part of tidal prism decrease at the inlet. Tidal prisms decrease may also be explained by an increase in frictional resistance to tidal wave propagation, due to a general shoaling and oyster farms in the bay. A conceptual model is proposed, taking into account natural and human-related sedimentation processes, and explaining tidal inlet response to tidal bay evolutions.     

三门湾沿海声层析潮流观测实验

2009年9月6日至9日在三门湾进行了沿海声层析(Coastal Acoustic Tomography,CAT)潮流观测实验.实验由7台沿海声层析仪组网进行,并分别由渔船定点抛锚于7个站位.实验期间,还进行了定点ADCP(Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler)观测.通过建立逆模式对声传播时间差进行解析,引入权重因子,用L-curve法确定阻尼因子的最佳值,继而根据阻尼最小二乘法得到流速的最佳解.根据逆模式得到的流速分布可知该海区的潮流以半日潮(M2)为主,M2潮流椭圆呈东南-西北走向,潮流基本都是顺着水道,即涨潮为西北流向,退潮为东南流向.西北向与东南向最大流速分别为1.03m·s-1和1.09m·s-1.实验期间该区域的余流是从湾外流入湾内,平均流速约为0.05m·s-1.CAT与定点ADCP流速的东分量和北分量的均方差均小于0.18m·s-1.这样大面积的潮流和余流水平分布的同步观测,用传统观测手段很难实现.通过以上结果可以得出,沿海声层析技术可以作为一种新的测流方法对强潮海区进行大面积潮流观测,可在我国沿海的海洋环境监测等方面发挥重要作用.     

Progressive change of tidal wave characteristics from the eastern Yellow Sea to the Asan Bay,a strongly convergent bay in the west coast of Korea

Although there have been studies on the tide in convergent bay (or estuary), the tide change in terms of phase speed, amplitude, and phase difference between elevation and tidal current from a coastal ocean to a convergent bay has not been clearly shown so far. This study systematically examines the change of tidal wave characteristics from the eastern Yellow Sea to the Asan Bay, a strongly convergent bay on the west coast of Korea, using observations and an analytical model. As the tidal wave propagates from the eastern Yellow Sea into the Asan Bay, the phase speed, amplitude, and phase difference between elevation and tidal current increase along the channel. Such a phenomenon represents a unique example of tide change from a coastal ocean to a convergent bay, indicating dominance of convergence over friction in the Asan Bay. Both analytically computed tidal amplitude and travelling time compare well with observations. In the Asan Bay, the influence of the reflected wave is only felt in the upper one fifth of the bay and is almost unperceivable in the rest of the bay. The analytical analyses presented in this paper are particularly useful for understanding the relative importance of channel convergence, bottom friction, and reflected wave on the tidal characteristics change along the channel and the proposed method could be applicable to other estuaries.     

Tidal and residual currents over abrupt deep-sea topography based on shipboard ADCP data and tidal model solutions for three popular bathymetry grids

The response of tidal and residual currents to small-scale morphological differences over abrupt deep-sea topography (Seine Seamount) was estimated for bathymetry grids of different spatial resolution. Local barotropic tidal model solutions were obtained for three popular and publicly available bathymetry grids (Smith and Sandwell TOPO8.2, ETOPO1, and GEBCO08) to calculate residual currents from vessel-mounted acoustic Doppler current profiler (VM-ADCP) measurements. Currents from each tidal solution were interpolated to match the VM-ADCP ensemble times and locations. Root mean square (RMS) differences of tidal and residual current speeds largely follow topographic deviations and were largest for TOPO8.2-based solutions (up to 2.8 cm?s^?1) in seamount areas shallower than 1,000 m. Maximum RMS differences of currents obtained from higher resolution bathymetry did not exceed 1.7 cm?s^?1. Single depth-dependent maximum residual flow speed differences were up to 8 cm?s^?1 in all cases. Seine Seamount is located within a strong mean flow environment, and RMS residual current speed differences varied between 5 % and 20 % of observed peak velocities of the ambient flow. Residual flow estimates from shipboard ADCP data might be even more sensitive to the choice of bathymetry grids if barotropic tidal models are used to remove tides over deep oceanic topographic features where the mean flow is weak compared to the magnitude of barotropic tidal, or baroclinic currents. Realistic topography and associated flow complexity are also important factors for understanding sedimentary and ecological processes driven and maintained by flow–topography interaction.     

Shelf sediment dispersal during the dry season,Princess Charlotte Bay,Great Barrier Reef,Australia

Princess Charlotte Bay, located on the northern Great Barrier Reef, is an environment of terrigenous and carbonate deposition. The dynamics on this shelf are controlled by the Great Barrier Reef at the edge of the shelf, and the mid-shelf, shore-normal reefs. This study examines the dynamics during the dry season, with six time-series records from instrumented tripod deployments and numerous hydrographic stations.The shallow nearshore waters and the estuaries prove to be the sites where most active sediment resuspension and transport takes place. Sediment resuspension is effected primarily by waves in the nearshore, and channeling of tidal currents in the estuaries. Bedload transport did not occur during this study, mainly because current velocities were too low. Suspended particulate matter (SPM) transport in the bay is governed by tides and winds. Strong tidal flow imparts a strong offshore component to the transport, and strong southeast winds impart an alongshore component that transports SPM out of the bay to the northwest. Rattlesnake Channel, east of Princess Charlotte Bay, is another route by which SPM leaves the bay. Flow through this channel is predominantly tidal, with ebb waters (leaving Princess Charlotte Bay) carrying higher SPM concentrations than flood waters.SPM flux in the nearshore was an order of magnitude higher than at offshore stations, with highest fluxes generally occurring at times of sustained southeast winds. Transect data show that SPM drops to average bay values in water 11 m deep, indicating most SPM is transported in nearshore waters.     

Numerical modeling of tidal currents, sediment transport and morphological evolution in Hangzhou Bay, China

A 2D depth-averaged numerical model is set up to simulate the macro-scale hydrodynamic characteristics, sediment transport patterns and morphological evolution in Hangzhou Bay, a large macro-tidal estuary on the eastern coast of China. By incorporating the shallow water equations, the suspended sediment transport equation and the mass-balance equation for sediment; short-term hydrodynamics, sediment transport and long-term morphological evolution for Hangzhou Bay are simulated and the underlying physical mechanisms are analyzed. The model reproduces the spatial distribution patterns of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) in Hangzhou Bay, characterized by three high SSC zones and two low SSC zones. It also correctly simulates the residual flow, the residual sediment transport and the sediment accumulation patterns in Hangzhou Bay. The model results are in agreement with previous studies based on field measurements. The residual flow and the residual sediment transport are landwards directed in the northern part of the bay and seawards directed in the southern part. Sediment accumulation takes place in most areas of the bay. Harmonic analysis revealed that the tide is flood-dominant in the northern part of the bay and ebb-dominant in the southern part of the bay. The strength of the flood-dominance increases landwards along the northern Hangzhou Bay. In turn sediment transport in Hangzhou Bay is controlled by this tidal asymmetry pattern. In addition, the direction of tidal propagation in the East China Sea, the presence of the archipelago in the southeast and the funnel-shaped geometry of the bay, play important roles for the patterns of sediment transport and sediment accumulation respectively.     

Tidally-induced sediment transport patterns in the upper Bay of Fundy: A numerical study

The Minas Basin, the eastern end of the Bay of Fundy, is well known for its high tide ranges and strong tidal currents, which can be exploited to extract electricity power. The properties of the tidally-induced sediment transport in the Minas Basin, where significant changes in tidal processes may occur due to a recently proposed tidal power project, have been studied with a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model, an empirical bed load sediment transport model and surface sediment concentrations derived from the remotely-sensed images. The hydrodynamic model was evaluated against independent observational data, which include tidal elevation, tidal current (in the full water column and bottom layer), residual current profile and tidal asymmetry indicators. The evaluation shows that the model is in good agreement with the observations.The sediment transport includes two components, bed load and suspended particulate load. The bed load is calculated using the modelled bottom shear stress and the observed grain size data. The estimated features of bed load transport roughly agree with the observed patterns of the erosion and deposition in the Minas Basin and Cobequid Bay. The transport of the suspended load is estimated using the modelled velocity fields and the surface sediment concentration derived from remote-sensing images. The comparisons between the modelled results and the limited observations illustrate that the observed directions of suspended sediment transport are basically reproduced by the model. The modelled net suspended sediment input into the Minas Basin through Minas Passage is 2.4×10⁶ m³ yr^?1, which is comparable to the observed value of 1.6×10⁶ m³ yr^?1.The variations of the bed load and the suspended load in space and time are also presented. The total net transport, defined as the mean value of the sum of bed and suspended load transports during the tidal cycle, shows strong spatial variability. The magnitude of the transport flux ranges from 0.1 to 0.2 kg m^?1 s^?1 in Minas Channel and Minas Passage, 0.1 kg m^?1 s^?1 in Cobequid Bay, to 0.01 kg m^?1 s^?1 in the central Minas Basin and Southern Bight. In Minas Channel, the sediment transport follows the structure of the tidal residual circulation, which features a large anticlockwise gyre. The sediment in Minas Passage moves eastward and deposits into the central Minas Basin. However, the sediment from the eastern part of the Basin moves westward and deposits in the central Minas Basin as well. In the Cobequid Bay, sediment moves eastward and deposits in the upper bay.     

Coastal circulation near kakinada bay during monsoon period

Summary With a view of understanding the various processes responsible for the deposition of sand in the vicinity of Kakinada Bay and Godavari Point, an intensive study of currents in the coastal waters has been made using floats. The circulation has high variability in both magnitude and direction related to the three current components namely wind currents, tidal currents and wave currents. The circulation pattern rapidly changes with the change in the phase of the tide and local winds of land and see breeze. The littoral currents directed up-coast during premonsoon and monsoon seasons have insignificant effect across the bay opening due to the sheltering effect of the sand bar. The study is found helpful for understanding the geomorphological changes of the shoreline in this region from time to time.     

Realistic modelling of shelf-estuary regions

A very high-resolution modelling configuration was created for the estuary of Baía de Todos os Santos – BTS, Brazil (300 to 400 m), and adjacent coastal waters (600 to 1200 m). The adoption of a multi-corner domain approach allowed the variable spatial resolution required to resolve the shelf, the bay and their interactions. Seven years were simulated using realistic oceanic, atmospheric and riverine forcing. Model validation was done against observations showing the model skill to reproduce the thermohaline field, the tidal currents, as well as the variability of the free surface at tidal and sub-tidal time scales. The results provide the first representation of the tidal wave propagation along the bay, in terms of maps of amplitudes, phases and ellipses of the barotropic currents for the main tidal constituents. By analysing the residual currents at different depths, in terms of averages over the simulation period, several prominent structures were identified and named: (i) Salvador eddy (up to 0.2 m s⁻¹); (ii) St Antonio current (up to 0.45 m s⁻¹); (iii) Salvador current (up to 0.5 m s⁻¹); (iv) Itaparica eddy (up to 0.2 m s⁻¹); (v) Ilha dos Frades southern eddy (up to 0.1 m s⁻¹); and (vi) Ilha dos Frades northern eddy (up to 0.2 m s⁻¹). The model set-up proved to be highly efficient and robust simulating the BTS shelf-estuary region and such an approach may be suitable to other estuarine systems.

     

Transport through Tavernier Creek: a primary flushing pathway for Northeast Florida Bay

Current meter data from a 411-day study are used to characterize the movement of water through Tavernier Creek, a tidal channel in the Upper Florida Keys that connects northeastern Florida Bay with the narrow continental shelf on the Atlantic Ocean side of the Keys. The record reveals active tidal and nontidal exchanges. Strongest flood and ebb current speeds commonly reach 50 cm s⁻¹. Low-frequency exchanges are highly coherent with the across-shelf component of local wind stress over time scales in excess of 2.5 days. Bay-shelf exchanges are investigated in four ways. Current measurements made while a drogue was tracked from one end of the creek to the other provide a relationship that can be applied to the time series of current meter data. Results suggest that ocean water reaches the bay end of the creek on 92% of the floods, and bay water reaches the ocean end on 94% of the ebbs. The Eulerian tidal excursion calculated from the amplitude of the M ₂ tidal constituent is 1.42 times the length of the channel, and half-tidal cycle Eulerian displacements are commonly 1.5 times the length of the channel. Salinity measurements over a 165-day period document the arrival of bay and ocean water at a study site at about the midpoint of Tavernier Creek. Results suggest that the creek becomes completely flushed after about 450,000 m³ of water have entered from either end. Histograms of ebb and flood volume transports indicate that half-tidal cycle transports are commonly between 800,000 and 1,100,000 m³. The long-term movement of water through Tavernier Creek is a net outflow from Florida Bay. Results support the idea that Tavernier Creek serves as an effective conduit for exchanging bay and ocean water, and especially for draining the northeast corner of Florida Bay.     

Modeling studies of tidal dynamics and the associated responses to coastline changes in the Bohai Sea,China

Over the past 30 years, reclamation projects and related changes have impacted the hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the Bohai Sea. Three-dimensional tidal current models of the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea were constructed using the MIKE 3 model. We used a refined grid to simulate and analyze the effects of changes in coastline, depth, topography, reclamation, the Yellow River estuary, and coastal erosion on tidal systems, tide levels, tidal currents, residual currents, and tidal fluxes. The simulation results show that the relative change in the amplitude of the half-day tide is greater than that of the full-day tide. The changes in the tidal amplitudes of M₂, S₂, K₁, and O₁ caused by coastline changes accounted for 27.76–99.07% of the overall change in amplitude from 1987 to 2016, and water depth changes accounted for 0.93–72.24% of the overall change. The dominant factor driving coastline changes is reclamation, accounting for 99.55–99.91% of the amplitude changes in tidal waves, followed by coastal erosion, accounting for 0.05–0.40% of the tidal wave amplitude changes. The contribution of changes in the Yellow River estuary to tidal wave amplitude changes is small, accounting for 0.01–0.12% of the amplitude change factor. The change in the highest tide level (HTL) is mainly related to the amplitude change, and the correlation with the phase change is small. The dominant factor responsible for the change in the HTL is the tide amplitude change in M2, followed by S2, whereas the influence of the K1 and O1 tides on the change in the HTL is small. Reclamation resulted in a decrease in the vertical average maximum flow velocity (V_VAM) in the Bohai Sea. Shallower water depths have led to an increase in the V_VAM; deeper water depths have led to a decrease in the maximum flow velocity. The absolute value of the maximum flow velocity gradually decreases from the surface to the bottom, but the relative change value is basically constant. The changes in the tidal dynamics of the Bohai Sea are proportional to the degree of change in the coastline. The maximum and minimum changes in the tidal flux appear in Laizhou Bay (P-LZB) and Liaodong Bay (P-LDB), respectively. The changes in the tidal flux are related to the change in the area of the bay. Due to the reduced tidal flux, the water exchange capacity of the Bohai Sea has decreased, impacting the ecological environment of the Bohai Sea. Strictly controlling the scale of reclamation are important measures for reducing the decline in the water exchange capacity of the Bohai Sea and the deterioration of its ecological environment.     

Dynamics,sediment transport,and morphology in a tide-dominated embayment

Western Port, Victoria, Australia is a tide-dominated embayment with an unusual and complex shape. Bottom currents and circulation and their effects on sediment processes were examined using instrumented tripods to measure currents, tides and wave activity, and to estimate sediment transport at nine locations in the bay. Overall bottom water movement patterns were determined by use of seabed drifters. The characteristics of the bay reflect a small catchment and low freshwater and sediment input. A complex system of channels is flanked by extensive intertidal areas. Tidal range varies up to more than 3 m, generating bottom currents up to 70cm s^?1. Flow directions generally conform to channel alignments but major deviations are important. Net circulation in the bay is clockwise around the large central island. The ratio of tidal range to half-tidal period (ΔH/ΔT) when compared with measured currents gave a method of prediction of the annual frequency distribution of maximum bottom current velocities. Determination of threshold current velocities enabled prediction of annual frequency of bedload movement (generally 50–100 per cent of tide cycles). Bedload mass transport for all observed tide cycles was calculated, and estimates of annual mass transport capacity (between 10² and 10⁶ g cm^?1 a^?1( were obtained from a relationship between predicted tidal conditions and mass transport. Seabed drifters delineated the major bottom water movements in the bay and adjacent Bass Strait, and also detailed circulation patterns. This linked the data from the tripod stations, in particular patterns of ebb- and flood-dominance. A coherent picture of the processes operating in Western Port is presented by integrating these studies with corroborative studies of sediment distribution and morphology, hydrochemistry, and mathematical modelling. Some morphological characteristics related to tide-dominance are discussed.     

The influence of wind forcing on across-shelf transport in the Florida Keys

Acoustic Doppler current profiles and current meter data are combined with wind observations to describe the transport of water leaving Florida Bay and moving onto the inner shelf on the Atlantic side of the Florida Keys. A 275-day study in the Long Key Channel reveals strong tidal exchanges, but the average ebb tide volume leaving Florida Bay is 19% greater than the average flood tide volume entering the bay. The long-term net outflow averages 472 m³ s⁻¹. Two studies in shelf waters describe the response to wind forcing during spring and summer months in 2004 and during fall and winter months in 2004–2005. During the spring–summer study, southeasterly winds have a distinct shoreward component, and a two-layer pattern appears. Surface layers move shoreward while near-bottom layers move seaward. During the winter study, the resultant wind direction is parallel to the Keys and to the local isobaths. The entire water column moves in a nearly downwind direction, and across-shelf transport is relatively small. During the summer wet season, Florida Bay water should be warmer, fresher, and thus less dense than Atlantic shelf waters. Ebbing bay water should move onto the shelf as a buoyant plume and be held close to the Keys by southeasterly winds. During the winter dry season, colder and saltier Florida Bay water should leave the tidal channels with relatively high density and be concentrated in the near-bottom layers. But little across-shelf flow occurs with northeasterly winds. The study suggests that seasonally changing wind forcing and hydrographic conditions serve to insulate the reef tract from the impact of low-quality bay water.     

Effect of offshore waves and vegetation on the sediment budget in the Virginia Coast Reserve (VA)

The potential for rapid coastline modification in the face of sea-level rise or other stressors is alarming, since coasts are often densely populated and support valuable infrastructure. In addition to coastal submergence, nutrient-related water pollution is a growing concern for coastal wetlands. Previous studies found that the Suspended Sediment Concentration (SSC) of coastal wetlands acts as a first-order control of their sustainability, but SSC dynamics are poorly understood. Our study focuses on the Virginia Coast Reserve (VCR) Long Term Ecological Research (LTER) site, a shallow multiple tidal inlet system in the USA. We apply numerical modelling (Delft3D-SWAN) and subsequent analyses to determine SSC dynamics within the VCR. In particular, we consider two important controls on SSC in the system: vegetation (seagrass and salt marsh) and offshore waves. Our results show that vegetation colonies and increased wave energy lengthen water residence time. The reduction in the tidal prism decreases SSC export from the bay via tidal inlets, leading to increased sediment retention in the bay. We found that alongshore currents can enhance lagoon SSC by importing fine sediments from an adjacent inlet along the coastline. Our numerical experiments on vegetation seasonality can improve the understanding of wave climate impact on coastal bay sediment budget. Offshore waves increase sediment export from coastal bays, particularly during winter seasons with low vegetation density. Therefore, our study can help managers and stakeholders to understand how to implement restoration strategies for the VCR. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Residual vorticity induced by the action of tidal currents in combination with bottom topography in the Southern Bight of the North Sea

Abstract

Results are presented of calculations on the generation of residual vorticity by tidal currents over the bottom topography of the Southern Bight of the North Sea. A typical order of magnitude is 10^?6 to 10^?7 s ^?1. This is compared with current measurements on calm days, when similar magnitudes are found. At windspeeds less than about 5 m/s tidal generation of residual vorticity is important; at higher windspeeds wind effects begin to dominate. Our results are relevant in understanding the spatial variability of residual currents, because a non-zero vorticity implies the existence of horizontal gradients in the residual current field.     

Tidal effects on estuarine circulation and outflow plume in the Chesapeake Bay

The response of the Chesapeake Bay to river discharge under the influence and absence of tide is simulated with a numerical model. Four numerical experiments are examined: (1) response to river discharge only; (2) response to river discharge plus an ambient coastal current along the shelf outside the bay; (3) response to river discharge and tidal forcing; and (4) response to river discharge, tidal forcing, and ambient coastal current. The general salinity distribution in the four cases is similar to observations inside the bay. Observed features, such as low salinity in the western side of the bay, are consistent in model results. Also, a typical estuarine circulation with seaward current in the upper layer and landward current in the lower layer is obtained in the four cases. The two cases without tide produce stronger subtidal currents than the cases with tide owing to greater frictional effects in the cases with tide. Differences in salinity distributions among the four cases appear mostly outside the bay in terms of the outflow plume structure. The two cases without tide produce an upstream (as in a Kelvin wave sense) or northward branch of the outflow plume, while the cases with tide produce an expected downstream or southward plume. Increased friction in the cases with tide changes the vertical structure of outflow at the entrance to the bay and induces large horizontal variations in the exchange flow. Consequently, the outflow from the bay is more influenced by the bottom than in the cases without tide. Therefore, a tendency for a bottom-advected plume appears in the cases with tide, rather than a surface-advected plume, which develops in the cases without tide. Further analysis shows that the tidal current favors a salt balance between the horizontal and vertical advection of salinity around the plume and hinders the upstream expansion of the plume outside the bay.     

The modification of current ellipses by stratification in the Liverpool Bay ROFI

Understanding the fate of freshwater runoff and corresponding nutrient and pollution loads is of critical importance for the development of accurate predictive models and coastal management tools. A key element of such studies is the identification and understanding of the interaction between stratification and current structure. This paper presents a new series of measurements made in the Liverpool Bay region of freshwater influence (ROFI) during spring 2004 where freshwater-maintained horizontal density gradients and strong tidal currents interact to produce strain-induced periodic stratification (SIPS). During stratification, tidal current profiles are significantly modified such that the tidal flow deviates from the otherwise rectilinear E–W axis generating counter rotating upper and lower mixed layers. This feature has often been reported for the Rhine ROFI but not previously identified in Liverpool Bay despite previous investigation at this site. Investigation of an ongoing long-term dataset collected nearby reveals this process to be a common feature throughout the year. Liverpool Bay is shown to maintain three different regimes, long term mixed, long term stratified, and a transitional state when SIPS occurs. The phase of SIPS relative to the tide results in a residual flow away from the Welsh coastline in the upper water column of 2.3–3.6 cm s⁻¹ with a counterflow in the lower layer of 2.8–3.1 cm s⁻¹ towards the coast.     

Tidal and low-frequency currents off the Jaguaribe River estuary (4° S, 37° 4′ W), northeastern Brazil

This article characterizes the spatial and temporal current variations, in the subtidal and tidal ranges, during the rainy and dry seasons, at the continental shelf off the Jaguaribe River, through measurements of continuous current field data from an acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) mooring during 124 days, from June 12 to October 14, 2009. To support this dataset, we collected corresponding data from a meteorological station located at the estuary. The spatial variation showed that highest current speeds occur near the coast, with an offset of a NNW coastal jet, decreasing intensity, monotonically, towards offshore up to 0.1 ms^?1. In the rainy season, small inversions of the wind field were observed, lasting 2 to 3 days on average and were accompanied by the direction of surface currents only. In the dry season, the period of reversal of wind fields and currents lasted 14 and 35 h, respectively. The analysis of empirical orthogonal functions in rainy and dry seasons showed that the continental shelf is predominantly barotropic, where the second and third modes explained only 7% of the total variance, during the dry season. The tidal currents are more intense in the direction normal to the coast, showing a semidiurnal tidal regime. Energy distribution between tidal currents and currents of longer periods showed that for the component parallel to bathymetry, subtidal frequency currents are dominant, contributing to more than 70% of the variance. For the normal component to the coastline bathymetry, there is a significant increase of power concerning tidal currents, at all depths, so they contribute with about 55% of the total variance.     

Spatio-temporal variability of currents over a mobile dune field in the Dover Strait

A one month field campaign featuring two spring–neap tide cycles and three strong storms has been performed in a mobile dune area located in the central part of the Dover Strait. These dunes are known to move in a complex manner as their migration direction varies in space and time (Le Bot et al., 2000, Le Bot, 2001, Le Bot and Trentesaux, 2004). In order to gain some insights into the dune motion processes we present an analysis of the spatio-temporal variability of currents in the area emphasizing the relative influence of tides and storms. A total of eight different hydro-meteorological regimes have been distinguished during the experiment duration. The analysis of the currents measurements at five locations in the area shows that the eight hydro-meteorological regimes induce very different current responses at the bottom. The residual tidal currents exhibit a significant spatial variability both in direction and in intensity. A numerical model of tidal currents over the Dover Strait confirms the strong spatio-temporal variability of the residual tidal currents featuring three singular points. Amongst them, a saddle point is located just south of the I-dune at the convergence of opposite direction residual tidal currents. The wind-induced currents are almost uniform in space, their intensity and direction however strongly depends on the wind regime and thus on time. The mean total current feature a spatial pattern which can be tidal of wind-induced currents dominated, or either in balance, depending on the regime considered. At the PERMOD campaign time scale, the total current is dominated by the residual tidal current. These results proved to give valuable insights to explain the complex dynamics of dune motion observed in this area by Le Bot et al., 2000, Le Bot, 2001, Le Bot and Trentesaux, 2004 at short and long time scales.