Modeling shoreline sand waves on the coasts of Namibia and Angola

The southwestern (SW) coast of Africa (Namibia and Angola) features long sandy beaches and a wave climate dominated by energetic swells from the Southsouthwest (SSW), therefore approaching the coast with a very high obliquity. Satellite images reveal that along that coast there are many shoreline sand waves with wavelengths ranging from 2 to 8 km. A more detailed study, including a Fourier analysis of the shoreline position, yields the wavelengths (among this range) with the highest spectral density concentration. Also, it becomes apparent that at least some of the sand waves are dynamically active rather than being controlled by the geological setting. A morphodynamic model is used to test the hypothesis that these sand waves could emerge as free morphodynamic instabilities of the coastline due to the obliquity in wave incidence. It is found that the period of the incident water waves, T_p, is crucial to establish the tendency to stability or instability, instability increasing for decreasing period, whilst there is some discrepancy in the observed periods. Model results for T_p = 7–8 s clearly show the tendency for the coast to develop free sand waves at about 4 km wavelength within a few years, which migrate to the north at rates of 0.2–0.6 km yr^?1. For larger T_p or steeper profiles, the coast is stable but sand waves originated by other mechanisms can propagate downdrift with little decay.     

Analysis of the effects of different storm events on shoreline dynamics of an artificially embayed beach

A five‐year dataset of Argus‐derived mean intertidal positions has been analysed to characterize the shoreface variability in a beach protected by a system of groynes and a parallel low crested structure (Lido di Dante Ravenna, Italy). For the period 2004–2009, 84 intertidal beach bathymetries and shorelines at the zero sea level were used as indicators to assess beach changes in between a number of selected surveys and to determine characteristic patterns of the beach response to storm events from different directions. Variations in the shoreline at the zero sea levels have been quantified and analysed in conjunction with nearshore wave conditions and provenance linked to storm events. These fall into two categories: (1) storm events occurring during Bora (north‐eastern) wind conditions and (2) storm events occurring during Scirocco (south‐eastern) wind conditions. The results show that, apart from main beach advances of the whole protected beach due to nourishments periodically carried out, a marked variability is observed among the four sub‐cells into which the shoreface behaviour has been separately analysed. In particular, a dependence of beach rotation in the ‘artificially embayed’ area on the substantially bi‐directional wave climate has been shown: Bora and Scirocco storm events produce shoreline rotation in counterclockwise and clockwise directions, respectively, due to the occurrence of longshore currents in the opposite direction in the nearshore. An attempt was made to correlate the shoreface dynamics for the main rotation events (14 selected ones) to the wave attack intensity (as the total energy flux due to storm events). A relationship seems to occur (for each storm category) between the shoreline displacements estimated for each sub‐cell and the total energy flux computed for inter‐survey periods, supporting the occurrence of a link between the observed morphological changes and the hydrodynamic forcing associated with storm events in the five‐year monitoring period. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Overwash processes along a gravel beach in south-east Ireland

Recent overwashing, and to a more limited extent overtopping, has occurred on a gravel-dominated beach just west of Carnsore Point in south-east Ireland. At relatively low points swash excursions have breached the duneline and extensive gravel fans have formed on landward-facing slopes. Also, at interbreach positions, swash ramps have been built-up in front of previously eroding dune cliffs, allowing overtopping at heights of up to 5 m above MHWOST, spreading a veneer of sediment over the adjacent dune ridge. In both cases events appear to be preceded by erosion and backbeach sand and gravel deposition. Stratigraphic, textural and fabric analyses assist in identifying environmental conditions that prevailed during overwash throat and fan, and overtopping ramp, sedimentation.     

The use of video imagery to analyse groundwater and shoreline dynamics on a dissipative beach

Groundwater seepage is known to influence beach erosion and accretion processes. However, field measurements of the variation of the groundwater seepage line (GWSL) and the vertical elevation difference between the GWSL and the shoreline are limited. We developed a methodology to extract the temporal variability of the shoreline and the wet-dry boundary using video imagery, with the overarching aim to examine elevation differences between the wet-dry boundary and the shoreline position in relation to rainfall and wave characteristics, during a tidal cycle. The wet-dry boundary was detected from 10 min time-averaged images collected at Ngaranui Beach, Raglan, New Zealand. An algorithm discriminated between the dry and wet cells using a threshold related to the maximum of the red, green, and blue intensities in Hue-Saturation-Value. Field measurements showed this corresponded to the location where the water table was within 2 cm of the beachface surface. Time stacks and time series of pixels extracted from cross-shore transects in the video imagery, were used to determine the location of the shoreline by manually digitizing the maximum run-up and minimum run-down location for each swash cycle, and averaging the result. In our test data set of 14 days covering a range of wave and rainfall conditions, we found 6 days when the elevation difference between the wet-dry boundary and the shoreline remained approximately constant during the tidal cycle. For these days, the wet-dry boundary corresponded to the upper limit of the swash zone. On the other 8 days, the wet-dry boundary and the shoreline decoupled with falling tide, leading to elevation differences of up to 2.5 m at low tide. Elevation differences between the GWSL and the shoreline at low tide were particularly large when the cumulative rainfall in the preceding month was greater than 200 mm. This research shows that the wet-dry boundary (such as often used in video shoreline-finding algorithms) is related to groundwater seepage on low-sloped, medium to fine sand beaches such as Ngaranui Beach (mean grain size ∼0.27 mm, beach slope ∼1:70) and may not be a good indicator of the position of the shoreline.     

Energetics prediction of frequency-dependent suspended sand transport rates on a macrotidal beach

The on–offshore (cross-shore) transport of sand on beaches is highly time-variable, which has made it difficult to model or predict. In this paper, simple energetics modelling is used to compare velocity moment predictions with field observations of suspended sand transport rates. Separate consideration is given to transport associated with the three main frequency-dependent cross-shore transport processes: that associated with the short (incident) waves, that due to the long (infragravity) waves, and transport associated with the mean flow. Direct comparison between the depth-averaged model predictions, and the in-situ point measurements was facilitated by making the first order assumption that the time-averaged suspension profile is exponential and the wave velocity profile is vertically uniform. An appropriate rippled bed roughness was used to provide the drag coefficient in the energetics model and the vertical length scale of the exponential suspension profile. Despite these simple assumptions, comparison of the velocity moment predictions with the field observations of suspended sand fluxes reveals that this approach has the capacity to predict transport magnitudes due to short wave, long wave, and mean flow components to within about one order of magnitude. However, owing to the limitations of the model, the transport direction of the short wave component could not, on occasion, be correctly determined, probably due to ‘reverse’ transport over ripples. © 1998 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Storm response of a mixed sand gravel beach ridge plain under falling relative sea levels: A stratigraphic investigation using ground penetrating radar

Beach ridge stratigraphy can provide an important record of both sustained coastal progradation and responses to events such as extreme storms, as well as evidence of earthquake induced sediment pulses. This study is a stratigraphic investigation of the late Holocene mixed sand gravel (MSG) beach ridge plain on the Canterbury coast, New Zealand. The subsurface was imaged along a 370 m shore-normal transect using 100 and 200 MHz ground penetrating radar (GPR) antennae, and cored to sample sediment textures. Results show that, seaward of a back-barrier lagoon, the Pegasus Bay beach ridge plain prograded almost uniformly, under conditions of relatively stable sea level. Nearshore sediment supply appears to have created a sustained sediment surplus, perhaps as a result of post-seismic sediment pulses, resulting in a flat, morphologically featureless beach ridge plain. Evidence of a high magnitude storm provides an exception, with an estimated event return period in excess of 100 years. Evidence from the GPR sequence combined with modern process observations from MSG beaches indicates that a palaeo-storm initially created a washover fan into the back-barrier lagoon, with a large amount of sediment simultaneously moved off the beach face into the nearshore. This erosion event resulted in a topographic depression still evident today. In the subsequent recovery period, sediment was reworked by swash onto the beach as a sequence of berm deposit laminations, creating an elevated beach ridge that also has a modern-day topographic signature. As sediment supply returned to normal, and under conditions of falling sea level, a beach ridge progradation sequence accumulated seaward of the storm feature out to the modern-day beach as a large flat, uniform progradation plain. This study highlights the importance of extreme storm events and earthquake pulses on MSG coastlines in triggering high volume beach ridge formation during the subsequent recovery period. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Ice-collapse induced waves and graded gravel ridges on a Lake Beach

Ice collapsing into the waters of proglacial Briksdal Lake, western Norway, generates waves which rework shoreline sediments. Swash establishes graded gravel ridges sub-perpendicular to the shoreline, derived from material eroded by backwash. A terminal gravel bar at the lakeward limit of wave-induced transport marks the maximum depth of water surface waves.     

Variability in estimates of oil contamination in the intertidal zone of a gravel beach

Estimates of the surface cover of stranded oil on a gravel beach ranged between 25 and 51%. This variability is attributed primarily to wet weather conditions that altered the colour of the surface substrate, thus making identification of oil or oiled sediments difficult. Estimates and the observations from three surveys in wet weather ranged between 25 and 46%; whereas on a dry day the range from four surveys was only 42–51%. Within this small study area (7200 m²) the same observer provided estimates of the surface oil cover that ranged from 1800 to 3680 m². This wide variability for a small section of shoreline would probably be magnified during reconnaissance surveys where long sections of coast are surveyed to determine the degree of contamination. Surveys of beach contamination for cleanup decisions or for damage assessment should be conducted with regard to the environmental (weather) conditions and the degree of accuracy that is required from the survey.     

Surface waves in a half-space of submerged sand

The present analysis deals with harmonic Rayleigh-type and transverse surface waves in a half-space of incompressible material with constant density and with shear modulus linearly increasing with depth. This model is proposed for describing the response of a half-space of submerged, dense sand to small strain vibrations of many cycles. It is shown that a discrete spectrum of polynomial solutions is always possible which makes the eigenvalue problem more tractable.     

PAH concentrations in Coquina (Donax spp.) on a sandy beach shoreline impacted by a marine oil spill

The BP MC252 well failure in the Gulf of Mexico, April 2010 caused concern for crude oil and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon (PAHs) exposure along the sandy beaches of the Florida Panhandle. We began collections of Coquina clams (Donax spp.) from the surf zone of Florida Panhandle beaches to monitor PAH contamination to compliment analysis of surf zone sand samples. These clams had higher levels of PAHs relative to ambient sand, and this allowed us to continue to monitor PAH levels after sand concentrations fell below limits of detection. PAH levels in the Coquina tissues were highly variable, perhaps indicative of the heterogeneous distribution of oil and tar on the beaches and exposure to tar particles. Overall, PAH levels decreased continuously in both sand and Coquina tissues, reaching limits of detection within one and two years respectively after oil landed on Florida Panhandle beaches. Our work suggests these surf zone molluscs may be used to monitor pollutant exposure along high energy sandy beach shorelines.     

Prevalence and distribution of fecal indicator organisms in South Florida beach sand and preliminary assessment of health effects associated with beach sand exposure

Fecal indicator levels in nearshore waters of South Florida are routinely monitored to assess microbial contamination at recreational beaches. However, samples of sand from the surf zone and upper beach are not monitored which is surprising since sand may accumulate and harbor fecal-derived organisms. This study examined the prevalence of fecal indicator organisms in tidally-affected beach sand and in upper beach sand and compared these counts to levels in the water. Since indicator organisms were statistically elevated in sand relative to water, the study also considered the potential health risks associated with beach use and exposure to sand. Fecal coliforms, Escherichia coli, enterococci, somatic coliphages, and F(+)-specific coliphages were enumerated from sand and water at three South Florida beaches (Ft. Lauderdale Beach, Hollywood Beach, and Hobie Beach) over a 2-year period. Bacteria were consistently more concentrated in 100g samples of beach sand (2-23 fold in wet sand and 30-460 fold in dry sand) compared to 100ml samples of water. Somatic coliphages were commonly recovered from both sand and water while F(+)-specific coliphages were less commonly detected. Seeding experiments revealed that a single specimen of gull feces significantly influenced enterococci levels in some 3.1m(2) of beach sand. Examination of beach sand on a micro-spatial scale demonstrated that the variation in enterococci density over short distances was considerable. Results of multiple linear regression analysis showed that the physical and chemical parameters monitored in this study could only minimally account for the variation observed in indicator densities. A pilot epidemiological study was conducted to examine whether the length of exposure to beach water and sand could be correlated with health risk. Logistic regression analysis results provided preliminary evidence that time spent in the wet sand and time spent in the water were associated with a dose-dependent increase in gastrointestinal illness.     

Burst-like sediment suspension events in a sand bed river

In a much quoted paper, Jackson (1976) hypothesized that turbulent [bursting] motions such as those documented in laboratory boundary layers play a major role in alluvial sediment suspension. To date, the hypothesis remained largely untested, due to difficulties in monitoring turbulent suspension in rivers. This study provides field data documenting burst-like turbulent motions over a sandy bed channel and quantifying the role of these motions in sand suspension. The data were collected in a 10 m deep channel of the Fraser River near Mission, British Columbia, Canada. Turbulent fluctuations of both flow components, downstream and normal to the bed, along with the output of an optical suspended sediment sensor, were monitored 1 m above the river bed. Typical flow velocities averaged 0·9 ms⁻¹ at the sensors, where mean suspended sediment concentrations were 500 mgl⁻¹; decimetre height small dunes on the backs of larger, half-metre amplitude dunes covered the channel bed in the area. Brief but intense, burst-like [ejection and inrush] events were identified in the flow records, where they are responsible for a high degree of [intermittency] in shear stress over the dunes: 80 per cent of the turbulent momentum exchange across the 1 m level can be ascribed to such brief (3-8 s duration) events, active under 12 per cent of the time. In addition, the record of fluctuating sediment concentrations reveals these burst-like motions to be highly effective in vertically mixing suspended sediment and thus, ultimately, in maintaining suspended sediment transport above the dune bed. The bulk (60 and 90 per cent in two deployments) of the vertical sediment mixing was accomplished by intense events active some 10 per cent of the time. No discrete recurrence timescale for these ‘burst-like’ mixing events is evident, however. Rather, a continuous variation of return periods was observed as a function of the magnitude of vertical mixing event considered. To that extent, conceptual models of sediment transport in terms of burst events with a predictable recurrence such as proposed by Jackson (1976) may be misleading.     

Decadal‐scale gravel beach evolution on a tectonically‐uplifting coast: Wellington,New Zealand

Uplift of the shoreline in tectonically‐active areas can have a profound influence on geomorphology changing the entire process dynamics of the coast as the landforms are removed from the influence of the sea. Over decadal timescales it is possible for the landforms to return to their pre‐earthquake condition and this paper examines the re‐establishment of mixed sand and gravel beaches on the coast of Wellington, New Zealand, subsequent to an uplift event in 1855. Over 60 topographic profiles were surveyed, seven sets of aerial photographs from a 67 year period were mapped and sediment size analyses conducted in order to quantify the nature of beach change following uplift, and associated relative sea level fall. These data were supported by surveys using ground penetrating radar. It is found that uplift raised the gravel beaches out of the swash zone thereby removing them from the littoral zone. Intertidal rocky reefs which occur between each embayment were also uplifted during the same event and completely interrupted the longshore transport system. Continued input of gravel material to the littoral zone allowed beaches to re‐establish sequentially along the coast as each embayment was infilled with sediment. This reconnection of the embayments with the longshore drift system is associated with the beach planform being initially drift dominated during infill but then switching to swash alignment once the embayment becomes infilled. This has resulted in shoreline accretion of over 100 m in some places, at rates of up to 4 m/yr, covering shore protection works built in the past few decades. The ability of the shore to adjust back to its pre‐uplift condition appears to be a function of the accommodation space created during uplift and the rate of sediment supply. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Aeolian sand drift from the intertidal zone on a temperate beach: Potential and actual rates

This paper compares the amount of sand that is potentially moved into a coastal dune system from a beach using estimates based solely on the wind force, with actual measured amounts. The actual sand inputs are determined by measuring sand level changes each month over a period of eighteen months, along a 1760-m section of foredune on Braunton Burrows, Southwest England. The calculation procedure used to estimate the potential rates of sand drift is based on the capacity of the wind force to transport sand using a published transport equation (White, 1979). The results show that the actual movement rates are markedly smaller than the potential rates for all months except in the summer. Meteorological variables and the watertable level in the adjacent dune system are used in an empirically derived regression equation in an attempt to explain the large discrepancy between the potential and actual movement rates. The resulting corrected potential movement rates are a closer estimate to the actual rates, but there remains much unexplained variance.     

The role of beach morphology on coastal cliff erosion under extreme waves

Erosion of hard‐rock coastal cliffs is understood to be caused by a combination of both marine and sub‐aerial processes. Beach morphology, tidal elevation and significant wave heights, especially under extreme storm conditions, can lead to variability in wave energy flux to the cliff‐toe. Wave and water level measurements in the nearshore under energetic conditions are difficult to obtain and in situ observations are rare. Here we use monthly cliff‐face volume changes detected using terrestrial laser scanning alongside beach morphological changes and modelled nearshore hydrodynamics to examine how exposed cliffs respond to changes in extreme wave conditions and beach morphology. The measurements cover the North Atlantic storms of 2013 to 2014 and consider two exposed stretches of coastline (Porthleven and Godrevy, UK) with contrasting beach morphology fronting the cliffs; a flat dissipative sandy beach at Godrevy and a steep reflective gravel beach at Porthleven. Beach slope and the elevation of the beach–cliff junction were found to influence the frequency of cliff inundation and the power of wave–cliff impacts. Numerical modelling (XBeach‐G) showed that under highly energetic wave conditions, i.e. those that occurred in the North Atlantic during winter 2013–2014, with H_s = 5.5 m (dissipative site) and 8 m (reflective site), the combination of greater wave height and steeper beach at the reflective site led to amplified wave run‐up, subjecting these cliffs to waves over four times as powerful as those impacting the cliffs at the dissipative site (39 kWm^‐1 compared with 9 kWm^‐1). This study highlighted the sensitivity of cliff erosion to extreme wave conditions, where the majority (over 90% of the annual value) of cliff‐face erosion ensued during the winter. The significance of these short‐term erosion rates in the context of long‐term retreat illustrates the importance of incorporating short‐term beach and wave dynamics into geomorphological studies of coastal cliff change. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.     

Water waves generated by instantaneous disturbances at the bed of a sloping beach

The two-dimensional problem of the generation of water waves due to instantaneous disturbances prescribed at the bed of a beach sloping at an arbitrary angle is studied here. It is formulated in terms of an initial-boundary-value problem for the velocity potential describing the motion in the fluid region assuming the linear theory. Using the Laplace transform in time and the Mellin transform in distance, the problem is reduced to solving a difference equation whose method of solution is of considerable importance in the literature. The form of the free surface is obtained in terms of a multiple infinite integral that is evaluated by the method of steepest-descent. For some prescribed forms of the disturbance at the bed of the beach, the free surface is depicted in a number of figures for different beach angles. It is observed that as the beach angle decreases, the maximum wave height increases, which is plausible.     

Effects of sand content on initial gravel motion in gravel‐bed rivers

When fine sediments are present in gravel streambeds (gravel‐framework beds), the gravel can be more easily removed from its original position, compared with gravel in a streambed without fine sediment but otherwise under the same hydraulic conditions. In this study, the effect of the presence of sand on the initiation of gravel motion in gravel riverbeds was investigated using flume experiments. The relationship between the critical Shields stress for gravel motion initiation and the fraction of sand in the bed was determined experimentally. The results can be summarized as follows. (1) When the fraction of sand in the bed is smaller than about 0.4, the critical Shields stress for the initiation of gravel motion decreases with increasing fraction of sand. The critical Shields stress increases, however, with increasing fraction of sand when it is larger than about 0.4. (2) The difference between the value of the critical Shields stress predicted by the Egiazaroff equation and the value obtained from the experimental data becomes maximum at about 0.4 of the fraction of sand. Here an empirical relation between the critical Shields stress and the fraction of sand is proposed so as to consider the effects of the ratio of the characteristic gravel size to the mean size of the bed material on the critical Shields stress. (3) Gravel in armored beds can be more easily mobilized by supplying sand as part of a sediment augmentation scheme. The sand fraction in the subsurface layer of the bed appears to reduce the friction angle of exposed particles. Sediment augmentation using sand has been recently demonstrated to be a viable alternative for mobilizing gravel for the restoration of gravel‐bed rivers downstream of dams. The quantitative evaluation obtained through the experiments reported here may be useful for the design of augmentation schemes. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The influence of nearshore sand bank dynamics on shoreline evolution in a macrotidal coastal environment,Calais, northern France

Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×10⁷ m³ during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.     

Effects of gravel and sand mulches on dew deposition in the semiarid region of China

Information regarding dew deposition on the stone-covered surface is scarce. The effects of gravel and sand mulches on dew condensation were studied during the late summer and fall of 1999 in the semiarid loess region of China. The results indicated that there were significant difference in daily dew amount between gravel mulch, sand mulch and dry loess soil (control). The average dew amount for gravel mulch was 0.071 mm d⁻¹ with extreme 0.022 and 0.20 mm d⁻¹. The average values for sand mulch and dry loess soil was 0.12 and 0.15 mm d⁻¹, respectively. The minimum dew amount was 0.048 mm d⁻¹ for sand mulch and 0.071 mm d⁻¹ for dry loess soil, and the maximum dew amount was approximate 0.25 mm d⁻¹ for both treatments. The results suggest that surface stone mulch can reduce dew deposition as compared to sand and dry loess soil.     

Detection of antibiotic resistant bacteria inhabiting the sand of non-recreational marine beach

The present study examined the antibiotic resistance of heterotrophic bacteria, which were isolated from the sand of the beach located in the National Park of the southern Baltic Sea coast. The bacteria demonstrated low levels of antibiotic resistance. These microorganisms were the most resistant to cefaclor and clindamycin and the most sensitive to clarithromycin, doxycycline, gentamycin and oxytetracycline. The majority of bacteria inhabiting the sand of the studied beach were resistant to only one antibiotic out of 18 tested antibiotics in this study. The bacteria inhabiting the middle part of the beach and the dune were more antibiotic resistant than bacteria isolated from the seawater and the shoreline-seawater contact zone. Generally, there was no significant difference in antibiotic resistance between bacteria isolated from the surface and the subsurface sand layers. The bacterial antibiotic resistance level depends on the chemical structure of antibiotics.