Short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents obtained through up-/downwelling

Small amplitude water waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current are investigated. The non-uniform current is obtained by up- or downwelling through the horizontal bed. A new locally valid velocity potential correct to the second order is derived describing the combined wave–current motion. From this solution expressions for the local evolution of the wave amplitude and the wave number are extracted. These expressions are compared with the results found using the principle of wave action conservation and the linear dispersion relation, and good agreement is found at small distances compared to the wavelength. Unlike earlier works there is no restriction to deep water. The results valid for deep water are found as a special case of the general solution and agree with the solution found by Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and Stewart, R.W. (1961) The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 10(4), 529–549. Furthermore, it is shown that the principle of wave action conservation in fact holds for waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current maintained by up-/downwelling also on finite depth.     

The effects of random surface waves on the steady Ekman current solutions

The response of near-surface current profiles to wind and random surface waves are studied based on the approach of Jenkins [1989. The use of a wave prediction model for driving a near surface current model. Dtsch. Hydrogr. Z. 42, 134–149] and Tang et al. [2007. Observation and modeling of surface currents on the Grand Banks: a study of the wave effects on surface currents. J. Geophys. Res. 112, C10025, doi:10.1029/2006JC004028]. Analytic steady solutions are presented for wave-modified Ekman equations resulting from Stokes drift, wind input and wave dissipation for a depth-independent constant eddy viscosity coefficient and one that varies linearly with depth. The parameters involved in the solutions can be determined by the two-dimensional wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves, wind speed, the Coriolis parameter and the densities of air and water, and the solutions reduce to those of Lewis and Belcher [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans. 37, 313–351] when only the effects of Stokes drift are included. As illustrative examples, for a fully developed wind-generated sea with different wind speeds, wave-modified current profiles are calculated and compared with the classical Ekman theory and Lewis and Belcher's [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans 37, 313–351] modification by using the Donelan and Pierson [1987. Radar scattering and equilibrium ranges in wind-generated waves with application to scatterometry. J. Geophys. Res. 92, 4971–5029] wavenumber spectrum, the WAM wave model formulation for wind input energy to waves, and wave energy dissipation converted to currents. Illustrative examples for a fully developed sea and the comparisons between observations and the theoretical predictions demonstrate that the effects of the random surface waves on the classical Ekman current are important, as they change qualitatively the nature of the Ekman layer. But the effects of the wind input and wave dissipation on surface current are small, relative to the impact of the Stokes drift.     

高频表面波对定常Ekman流解的影响

基于Jenkins(1989)建立的包含Stokes漂流、风输入和波耗散影响的修正Ekman模型,采用Paskyabi等(2012)使用的推广的Donelan等(1987)中的谱和波耗散函数,并利用Paskyabi等(2012)中修正方法给出的包含高频波的风输入函数,在粘性不依赖于水深及粘性随深度线性变化的条件下,研究了包含高频毛细重力波的随机表面波对Stokes漂流和Song(2009)导出的波浪修正定常Ekman流解的影响。结果表明高频表面波使Stokes漂流在海表面剪切加强,对定常Ekamn流解的影响通常不能忽略,但对Ekman流场的角度偏转影响很小。最后,将考虑高频表面波尾谱影响所估算的定常Ekman流解与已有观测结果以及经典Ekman解进行了比对分析。     

Nonlinear refraction-diffraction of surface waves in intermediate and shallow water

A numerical scheme for solving the nonlinear Boussinesq equations is introduced. The numerical model is used to investigate nonlinear refraction-diffraction of surface gravity waves over a semicircular shoal. Results are compared with experimental data (Whalin, 1971) and previous reported numerical results by Liu and Tsay (1984) and Liu, Yoon and Kirby (1985). The present calculations reproduce the earlier results for shallow water waves, but are superior in intermediate water depth.     

Study of nonlinear currents induced by coincident surface waves in liquid

This is an experimental study of the mixing induced by coincident surface waves in a liquid. The main mechanism leading to the emergence of mixing was shown to be the middle currents generated by coincident waves. The regime of these currents strongly depends on the amplitude of surface waves. For waves of near-critical amplitudes, an intense turbulization of middle currents is observed. Patterns of the velocity field were obtained using the Particle Imaging Velocimetry (PIV) technique for different amplitudes of surface waves. The results obtained can be used to estimate mixing in the near-surface oceanic layer.     

Dynamical structure of vertically two-dimensional estuary in steady state

The dynamical structure of a two-dimensional (depth and axial directions) estuary is studied analytically. A set of governing equations describing the time-averaged velocity and salinity in the estuary is used, where all of the external parameters (depth, width, freshwater discharge and horizontal and vertical coefficients of eddy viscosity and eddy diffusivity) are assumed to be constant along the estuary.Two dynamical relations are taken into consideration in the theory. One of them is the dependence of the longitudinal scaleL _d on the balance of longitudinal salt transport, and the other is the relation between the vertical stratification of salinity and the the Prandtl numberP _r=A_v/K_v, whereA _v andK _v denote the coeffcients of the vertical eddy viscosity and diffusivity, respectively. The two relations result in an extension of the parameter range in which the linear balance of momentum holds.A linear state of motion (LM-state) is defined as the state where the momentum balance is linear. The LM-state comprises the so-called vertically homogeneous and the so-called partially mixed state. Perturbation analysis is introduced and dynamical theory is developed in the LM-state. Since the LM-state covers a fairly wide regime with respect to the balance of salt transport, the state is subdivided into three stages: the diffusive, intermediate and advective stages. In the diffusive stage the upstream salt transport is mainly attributed to the horizontal diffusion, whereas in the advective stage it is attributed to advection caused by gravitational circulation. The salinity balance is also linear in the diffusive and intermediate stages, whereas the balance is nonlinear in the advective stage. The advective stage of the LM-state is regarded as a stage bordering the salt wedge state.The longitudinal distribution of depth-mean salinity is found to take an exponential form in the diffusive stage, a nearly linear form in the advective stage and an intermediate form between them in the intermediate stage.     

Wave force on vertically submerged circular thin plate in shallow water

The paper presented is a solution of shallow water wave force, using small amplitude linear wave theory on two-dimensional vertically submerged circular thin plates under three different configurations: (1) a surface-piercing circular thin plate, (2) a submerged circular thin plate, and (3) a bottom-standing circular thin plate. Finally Morison's equation is used for the determination of wave force which is based on the linear wave theory. The plate is submerged in water near the shore on uniformly sloping bottom. The solution method is confined in a finite domain, which contains both the region of different depth of water and the plate. Laplace's equation and boundary value problems are solved in a finite domain, by the method of separation of variables and the small amplitude linear wave theory. The variation of horizontal force by single particle, total horizontal force and moment with respect to the wave amplitude are obtained at different depth of water and at different wave period. It is observed that the force and moment are converging with the increase of wave period and the gradients of force and moment with respect to the wave amplitude are extremely high for lower wave period.     

The effect of tidal currents on internal waves

Internal waves were observed by measuring temperature variations of several subsurface layers at the innermost part of Suruga Bay from December 1968 to October 1971. Spectral energy densities of temperature fluctuations were computed from the records of the measurements. In the shorter period range from one minute to one hour, peaks of energy density were found occasionally in the range shorter than the minimum of VÄisÄlÄ periods computed from the vertical distribution of water density. It has been generally understood, however, that the periods of internal waves in a stable stratum should be within the range between the inertial and VÄisÄlÄ periods.The measurements of tidal currents in the surface and lower layers, which were undertaken simultaneously with the temperature measurements, revealed that the short-period oscillations were associated with the increase of current velocity and of vertical shear of current at the pycnocline.It is considered that observed periods shorter than the minimum of VÄisÄlÄ period are not real but apparent periods due to the Doppler effect, because the waves are generated in the velocity shear of tidal current and the source is moving towards the station with the tidal current.     

Influence of currents on weakly nonlinear topographic waves

In the Boussinesq approximation, we consider trapped topographic waves in an inhomogeneous current directed along isobaths. The influence of the current on the dispersion properties of trapped topographic waves in the Norwegian Sea is studied. We determine the mean currents and nonoscillatory (on the time scale of the waves) density corrections induced by the waves due to their nonlinearity. It is shown that the influence of currents is significant in the short-wave region. Its influence leads to a decrease in the wavelength for the constant period of waves, whereas the mean current caused by nonlinearity noticeably varies, especially in the bottom layer.     

Longshore currents of regular waves on different beaches

The experiment and numerical computations of longshore currents produced by regularwaves on the two beaches with the slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are made. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made for the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.     

Combined refraction and diffraction models for sea waves over complicated topography and with currents in shallow water

-Combined refraction and diffraction models in the form of linear parabolic approximation are derived through smallparameter method. More strictly theoretical basis and more accuracy in the models than Lozano's (1980) are obtained. Some theoretical defects in Liu's model (1985) with consideration of current are not only found but also eliminated. More strict and accurate models are, therefore, presented in this paper.The calculation results and analysis in applying the models to actual wave field with consideration of bottom friction will be given in the following paper.     

背景流场对台风风暴潮数值预报的影响研究

选取了3个穿过台湾海峡的台风引起的台风风暴潮为算例,分别用SODA月平均流速资料做垂向平均后构建了台湾周边海域的大尺度背景环流场,利用国家海洋环境预报中心业务化的台风风暴潮模式对经过该海域的台风个例进行风暴潮数值模拟。将结果与验潮站潮位实测资料进行对比发现,在加入了背景流场后,能更好地模拟整个风暴潮过程,模拟结果更接近真实值,特别是对于原模式风暴增水峰值容易偏大的问题得到了改善,而且整体相对误差更小,提高了风暴潮模式的业务稳定性。     

Interaction of waves with non-colinear currents

The present paper reports on a study of the interaction of a current-free monochromatic surface wave field with a wave-free uniform current field in a three-dimensional flow frame. The wave and the current fields are not necessarily collinear with each other. The formulation of the wave-current field is done under the assumption of irrotational and inviscid flow. We have developed the three dimensional expressions describing the characteristics of the combined flow in terms of mass, momentum and energy transport conservation. These equations are found efficient to describe the sought-for combined wave-current field. The parameters describing the wave-current field after the interaction are the surface disturbance amplitude and length, mean water depth, mean current-like parameter and direction of the combined flow, which would be calculated from a set of equations that satisfy conservation of mean mass, momentum and energy flux and a dispersion relation on the free surface before and after the interaction. The results are shown in terms of relative changes in wave heights and lengths, current-like parameters and final directions obtained for the combined wave-current field with respect to current-free wave and wave-free current pre-interaction parameters.     

Modeling drift currents in a shallow basin with allowance for variations in tangential stresses induced by wind waves

A coupling model for calculating wind-driven currents and waves in a shallow basin with allowance for current-wave interactions is introduced. The model is constructed on the basis of the three-dimensional σ-coordinate model of currents [3] and the SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) spectral wave model [4]. The effect of waves on currents is taken into account in the coefficients of surface and bottom friction through roughness parameters. Results of combined modeling of stationary fields of currents and waves generated by spatially homogeneous wind are correlated with the corresponding results of separate modeling for a cylindrical basin of constant depth and the water area of Lake Donuzlav (the northwestern coast of the Crimea). The allowance for the effect of waves during calculation of tangential wind stresses in the model of currents is shown to be among major factors intensifying water circulation and forming spatial inhomogeneities of the vortex type. In addition, some cases of local decreases in tangential wind stresses are revealed; they appear when the lake is penetrated from the side of the open sea by relatively long waves, which significantly decrease the roughness of the water surface.     

Spectral characteristics of high shallow water waves

The spectral characteristics of shallow water waves with significant wave height more than 2 m based on the data collected along the Indian coast is examined. It was found that the value of Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) parameters (α and γ) increases with significant wave height and mean wave period and decreases with spectral peak period. The estimated average value (0.0027 and 1.63) of the JONSWAP parameters, α and γ were less than the generally recommended values of 0.0081 and 3.3, respectively. By carrying out a multi-regression analysis, an empirical equation is arrived relating the JONSWAP parameters with significant wave height, peak wave period and mean wave period. It was found that the Scott spectra underestimate the maximum spectral energy of high waves. The study shows that the measured wave spectra can be represented by JONSWAP spectra with the JONSWAP parameters estimated based on the equation proposed in this paper.     

Hurricane effects on surface gulf stream currents

A 3-dimensional model methodology for predicting the upper ocean currents under the combined influence of Gulf Stream and hurricane is described. Predicted currents are highly dependent on the turbulence closure scheme and nonlinear interactions. New field data will be required to determine the appropriate formulation for turbulent momentum transfer. However, the model points out the importance of nonlinear terms in the equations of motions for preserving the jet-like structure of the Gulf Stream and for properly accounting for interaction between the Gulf Stream and a hurricane. A potentially worst case condition is obtained for the so-called resonant hurricane.     

Interaction of higher-order water waves with uniform currents

The interaction between current-free higher-order water waves with a wave-free uniform current normal to the wave crests is considered. The combined wave-current motion resulting from the interaction is assumed stable and irrotational. The velocity potential, dispersion relation, the particle kinematics and pressure distribution up to the third order in wave amplitude are developed. The conservation of mean mass, momentum and energy, together with the dispersion relation on the free surface are used to derive a set of four nonlinear equations, through which the relationship between wave-free current, current-free wave and the combined wave-current parameters is established. Numerical results for a range of current values are also presented.     

Modelling of waves and currents around submerged breakwaters

Recent experimental data collected during the DELOS project are used to validate two approaches for simulating waves and currents in the vicinity of submerged breakwaters.The first approach is a phase-averaged method in which a wave model is used to simulate wave transformation and calculate radiation stresses, while a flow model (2-dimensional depth averaged or quasi-3D) is used to calculate the resulting wave driven currents. The second approach is a phase resolving method in which a high order 2DH-Boussinesq-type model is used to calculate the waves and flow.The models predict wave heights that are comparable to measurements if the wave breaking sub-model is properly tuned for dissipation over the submerged breakwater. It is shown that the simulated flow pattern using both approaches is qualitatively similar to that observed in the experiments. Furthermore, the phase-resolving model shows good agreement between measured and simulated instantaneous surface elevations in wave flume tests.     

Bed load transport on the shoreface by currents and waves

Tide-driven bed load transport is an important portion of the net annual sediment transport rate in many shoreface and shelf environments. However, bed load transport under waves cannot be measured in the field and bed load transport by currents without waves is barely measurable, even in spring tidal conditions. There is, consequently, a strong lack of field data and validated models. The present field site was on the shoreface and inner shelf at 2 to 8.5 km offshore the central Dutch coast (far outside the surfzone), where tidal currents flow parallel to the coast. Bed load transports were carefully measured with a calibrated sampler in spring tidal conditions without waves at a water depth of 13–18 m with fine and medium sands. The near-bed flow was measured over nearly a year and used for integration to annual transport rates. An empirical bed load model was derived, which predicts bed load transports that are a factor of > 5 smaller than predicted by existing models. However, they agree with laboratory data of sand and gravel transport in currents near incipient motion. The damped transport rates may have been caused by cohesion of sediment or turbulence damping due to mud or biological activity. The annual bed load transport rate was calculated using a probability density function (pdf) derived from the near-bed current and orbital velocity data which represented the current and wave climate well when compared to 30 years of data from a nearby wave station. The effect of wave stirring was included in the transport calculations. The net bed load transport rate is a few m²/year. This is much less than predicted in an earlier model study, which is partly due to different bed load models but also due to the difference in velocity pdf. The annual transport rate is very sensitive to the probability of the largest current velocities.     

Experimental research on the evolution of wind waves in inhomogeneous currents

The results of an aircraft-ship experiment on the spatial variability of parameters of two-dimensional spectra of wind waves are discussed. The observed fields of wave parameters are compared with equations for wave refraction in the currents.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.