Experimental investigation of floating wave energy converters for coastal protection purpose

Coastal areas are vital economic hubs already affected by erosion, flood risk and long-term habitat deterioration. The growth of economy coupled with the acceleration of climate change draws the attention to sustainable coastal defence plans. Near-shore floating wave energy converters may be an innovative way to defend the coast with low environmental and aesthetic impact together with the secondary benefit of energy production. This contribution specifically addresses the use of devices of the Wave Activated Body type for coastal protection, based on 3D laboratory results. New experiments were carried out on a single device in 1:30 scale and on three devices of the same type in 1:60 scale in the deep-water wave tank at Aalborg University. Wave transmission, wave reflection, mutual interaction among the devices and device efficiency are assessed under a variety of conditions by changing wave steepness and water depth. Experiments allow a first outline of design guidelines for these kinds of combined installation for wave energy production and coastal defence.     

宁波海岛期间带生态学研究──Ⅱ．数量组成与分布

本文研究了宁波海岛潮间带的生物数量组成与分布规律。岩礁潮间带平均生物量（２５１２．９４ｇ／ｍ２）高于沙质潮间带（４７．６４ｇ／ｍ２）高于泥沙质潮间带（２２．３６ｇ／ｍ２），而密度为岩礁潮间带（９８７．２个／ｍ２）高于泥沙质潮间带（２８１．２个／ｍ２）高于沙质潮间带（２０．０个／ｍ２）。主要生物类群有甲壳动物、藻类及软体动物。岩礁潮间带生物量从近岸向外海增加。泥沙质潮间带的生物量和密度从北至南增加。     

Artificial reef effect and fouling impacts on offshore wave power foundations and buoys – a pilot study

Little is known about the effects of offshore energy installations on the marine environment, and further research could assist in minimizing environmental risks as well as in enhancing potential positive effects on the marine environment. While biofouling on marine energy conversion devices on one hand has the potential to be an engineering concern, these structures can also affect biodiversity by functioning as artificial reefs. The Lysekil Project is a test park for wave power located at the Swedish west coast. Here, buoys acting as point absorbers on the surface are connected to generators anchored on concrete foundations on the seabed. In this study we investigated the colonisation of foundations by invertebrates and fish, as well as fouling assemblages on buoys. We examined the influence of surface orientation of the wave power foundations on epibenthic colonisation, and made observations of habitat use by fish and crustaceans during three years of submergence. We also examined fouling assemblages on buoys and calculated the effects of biofouling on the energy absorption of the wave power buoys. On foundations we demonstrated a succession in colonisation over time with a higher degree of coverage on vertical surfaces. Buoys were dominated by the blue mussel Mytilus edulis. Calculations indicated that biofouling have no significant effect in the energy absorption on a buoy working as a point absorber. This study is the first structured investigation on marine organisms associated with wave power devices.     

The ecology of sandy beaches of the Benguela ecosystem

Sandy beaches constitute nearly 46 per cent of the coastline between the Cape of Good Hope and the Orange River along the west coast of South Africa. In addition, shores of mixed sand and rock make up a further 24 per cent although these are not considered here. Sandy beaches are therefore the dominant shore type along the coastline, and most are subject to high wave energy. There are two main ecological beach types along the study coastline: those that receive a high input of organic matter in the form of stranded kelp and those that do not. Neither type appears to support large stocks of surf-zone phytoplankton, but despite this, even beaches receiving no stranded kelp bear high standing stocks of infauna. This fact may be related to the location of the beaches alongside a highly productive upwelling region. Existing ecological information on sandy beaches along the Benguela coastline is reviewed and integrated to form a composite picture of present understanding of these beaches. The definition of a sandy beach includes not only the sandy intertidal zone but also the surf zone and sand dunes associated with it. Sandy beaches are characterized by the absence of attached primary producers, although in some parts of the world primary production by surf-zone phytoplankton has been found to be important. Secondary production by the infauna usually depends on matter imported into the system, except on beaches supporting important stocks of surf-zone phytoplankton. Imported organic matter is retained by beach sediments which act as a physical sieve, filtering large quantities of water with each wave and tide.     

Application of a Conceptual Ecological Model to Predict the Effects of Sand Mining around Chilsan Island Group in the West Coast of Korea

Chilsan Island Group, located on the west coast of South Korea, has been recognized as a critical breeding and nursery ground for endangered seabirds because food is abundant and human activity is low. Chilsan Island Group has been under protection as a Natural Monument (Article no. 389) since 1997, but attempts were made in 2004 to exploit the coastal sands around the islands. A conceptual ecological model (CEM) was employed with energy flow diagram (EFD) to predict the effects of sand mining on the islands’ ecosystem. The results showed that sand mining activities caused long-term damage to benthic ecosystems and threatened seabird communities by reducing fish populations throughout the food web. The changes in energy flow in the ecosystem due to sand mining operations predict that reduction in secondary production of benthic animal communities might reduce energy transfer to humans and seabirds by 30%. Different ranges of uncertainty provided by the Monte Carlo simulation lead to the conclusion that sand mining could bring about undesirable consequences. One concern is that such negative consequences would have a much more severe impact on seabirds than humans because seabirds cannot compete effectively against humans for the limited food sources. In this study, the complex interrelationships between ecosystem members were simplified and a CEM was established to clearly identify which elements would be affected. The CEM with EFD was found to be helpful in promoting communication between stakeholders, and it is expected to be widely used as a decisionmaking tool by public officials.     

Role of geological inheritance in Australian beach morphodynamics

The Australian coast contains 10,685 beaches which occupy 49% of the 30,000 km coast and average 1.37 km in length. Their relatively short length is largely due to the presence of bedrock, calcarenite and laterite, which form boundaries to many of the beaches, as well as occurring as rocks, reefs and islands along and off the beaches. This geological inheritance plays a major role in Australian beach systems — determining their length and through wave refraction and attenuation influencing beach location, shape, type, morphodynamics and circulation, which in turn influence sediment transport and the backing dune and barrier systems. This paper uses a database covering every Australian beach to review the role of headlands, rocks and reefs on Australian beaches. Major effects are the short average beach length; reduction in breaker height resulting in lower energy beach types; wave refraction resulting in increased beach curvature; the presence of topographic rips on moderate and higher energy beaches and megarips during high wave conditions; and the interruption of and/or trapping of longshore sand transport leading to beach rotation.     

Ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand

Nearly 17 years wave records from deep water and shore‐based stations are used to describe the ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand. The wave environment is dominated by west and southwest swell and storm waves generated in the temperate latitude belt of westerly winds. As a result, the west and south coasts are exposed, high energy shores, the east coast is a high energy lee shore, and the northern coast from North Cape to East Cape is a low energy lee shore sheltered from these winds and waves. South of New Zealand, wave energies are extremely high; the prevailing deep water wave is 3.5–4.5 m high and has a 10–12 s period, with a slight increase in wave heights in winter.

The west coast wave environment is mixed, and consists of locally generated westerly and southerly storm waves, and swell waves generated to the south. The prevailing wave is t.0–3.0 m and 6–8 s period. There are no strong seasonal rhythms, only shorter period cycles of wave height (5 day) associated with similar quasi‐rhythmic cycles in the weather.

The east coast also has a mixed wave climate with southerly swells, originating in the westerlies south of New Zealand, and locally generated southerly and northerly storm waves. The prevailing wave is 0.5–2.0 m and 7–11 s period. A short period rhythmic cycle, similar to that on the west coast, is superimposed on a weak seasonal cycle. The seasonal, cycle results from an increase in the frequency of local northerly waves in summer.

The prevailing wave on the north coast is a northeasterly, 0.5–1.5 m high and 5–7 s period. Subtropical disturbances and southward‐moving depressions generate a mixed wave environment and a possible seasonally reflecting a winter increase in. storminess.     

Environmental effects of the MV Rena shipwreck: cross-disciplinary investigations of oil and debris impacts on a coastal ecosystem

ABSTRACT

The 2011 wreck of the MV Rena off the northeast coast of New Zealand, and subsequent impacts, has been called New Zealand's worst ever maritime environmental disaster. It is certainly one of the world's most complex as it involved a pollutant combination of oil and dangerous goods debris in a dynamic oceanic environment adjacent to a pristine coastline. Heavy fuel oil, shipping containers loaded with cargo, and a wide range of wreck debris and contaminants were spread along hundreds of kilometres of coastline of the Bay of Plenty. Much of this landed on sandy beaches and rocky shores. Broken containers released often toxic substances, and the wreck itself slid down the pinnacle of the wreck site at Astrolabe Reef (Otaiti). The reef remains heavily contaminated, with substantial remnants of the ship and its cargo present, and chemical effects still evident in some species. Here we present the background and timeline of events that unfolded after the grounding. The following articles contain the results of the ensuing chemical, toxicological and ecological studies of contamination and environmental recovery. At the time of writing, numerous legacy issues remain.     

Short-term variations and influencing factors of suspended sediment concentrations at the Heisha Beach,Guangdong, China

Knowledge of sediment variation processes is essential to understand the evolution mechanism of beach morphology changes. Thus, a field measurement was conducted at the Heisha Beach, located on the west coast of the Zhujiang River(Pearl River) Estuary, to investigate the short-term variation in suspended sediment concentrations(SSCs) and the relationship between the SSC and turbulent kinetic energy, bottom shear stress(BSS), and relative wave height. Based on extreme event analysis results, extr...     

Estimating the potential of ocean wave power resources

The realistic assessment of an ocean wave energy resource that can be converted to an electrical power at various offshore sites depends upon many factors, and these include estimating the resource recognizing the random nature of the site-specific wave field, and optimizing the power conversion from particular wave energy conversion devices. In order to better account for the uncertainty in wave power resource estimates, conditional probability distribution functions of wave power in a given sea-state are derived. Theoretical expressions for the deep and shallow water limits are derived and the role of spectral width is studied. The theoretical model estimates were compared with the statistics obtained from the wave-by-wave analysis of JONSWAP based ocean wave time-series. It was shown that the narrow-band approximation is appropriate when the variability due to wave period is negligible. The application of the short-term models in evaluating the long-term wave power resource at a site was illustrated using wave data measured off the California coast. The final example illustrates the procedure for incorporating the local wave data and the sea-state model together with a wave energy device to obtain an estimate of the potential wave energy that could be converted into a usable energy resource.     

Deposits of the 1983 and 1993 tsunamis on the coast of Primorye

Deposits of the two strongest tsunamis of the 20th century have been found on the eastern coast of Primorye. The tsunamis had epicenters in the Sea of Japan west of the coast of Hokkaido. The distribution and preservation of deposits in bays of different geomorphological structure have been analyzed. The best defined sedimentary covers occur in the upper part of sections in low-lying areas of bay shores, where the wave runup was more than 3 m. The best preserved deposits have been observed in bays attributed to loworder streams. Variations of the structural composition of tsunami deposits formed by traction processes associated with the tsunamis have been analyzed depending on distance from the shoreline; the sources of material have been identified. Tsunami waves transported sand not only from beaches, ancient storm ridges, and terraces, but also from the underwater coastal slope; waves also grabbed material from estuarine lagoons and lakes located in the shore inundation zone. Deposits include marine diatoms with dominant sublittoral planktonic and benthic species, which suggests that the material was transported from a depth no more than 15 m. Deep-sea species of diatoms and their fragments have been encountered. Among freshwater diatoms are species with different ecological identities, indicating erosion and redeposition of material transported from various sources.     

Spectral features of the New Zealand deep‐water ocean wave climate

The wave climate at the Maui site off the west coast of the North Island and off the east coast of Great Barrier Island to the east of the North Island are examined. This is done by means of average wave spectra derived from a 2‐year database, acquired from Waverider buoy measurements made over 1980 and 1981. The average spectra provide information about the individual sea states which characterise the wave climate, and show that on average the sea state on the east coast is less energetic than it is on the west coast. Further, it is seen that this difference results largely from a dominant and persistent long‐period south‐westerly swell of 12.4 s period which is present at the Maui location but absent from the Great Barrier Island seas.     

An Oscillating Wave Energy Converter with Nonlinear Snap-Through Power-Take-Off Systems in Regular Waves

Floating oscillating bodies constitute a large class of wave energy converters, especially for offshore deployment. Usually the Power-Take-Off (PTO) system is a directly linear electric generator or a hydraulic motor that drives an electric generator. The PTO system is simplified as a linear spring and a linear damper. However the conversion is less powerful with wave periods off resonance. Thus, a nonlinear snap-through mechanism with two symmetrically oblique springs and a linear damper is applied in the PTO system. The nonlinear snap-through mechanism is characteristics of negative stiffness and double-well potential. An important nonlinear parameter is defined as the ratio of half of the horizontal distance between the two springs to the original length of both springs. Time domain method is applied to the dynamics of wave energy converter in regular waves. And the state space model is used to replace the convolution terms in the time domain equation. The results show that the energy harvested by the nonlinear PTO system is larger than that by linear system for low frequency input. While the power captured by nonlinear converters is slightly smaller than that by linear converters for high frequency input. The wave amplitude, damping coefficient of PTO systems and the nonlinear parameter affect power capture performance of nonlinear converters. The oscillation of nonlinear wave energy converters may be local or periodically inter well for certain values of the incident wave frequency and the nonlinear parameter , which is different from linear converters characteristics of sinusoidal response in regular waves.     

Identifying storm impacts on an embayed, high-energy coastline: examples from western Ireland

Large sections of the western Irish coast are characterised by a highly compartmentalised series of headland-embayment cells in which sand and gravel beaches are backed by large vegetated dune systems. Exposure to modally high-energy swell renders most of these beaches dissipative in character. A mesotidal range (c. 3.5–4.5 m) exists along much of the coast. Analysis of instrumental wind records from three locations permitted the identification of a variety of storm types and the construction of storm catalogues. Few individual storms were recorded at all three stations indicating a lack of regional consistency in storm record. Of the total storms recorded, only a small percentage are potentially damaging (onshore directed) and even fewer span a high tide and thus potentially induce a measurable morphological response at the coast.

Through a combination of historical records, meteorological records, field observations and wave modelling we attempt to assess the impact of storms. Quantifiable records of coastal morphology (maps, air photos and beach profiles) are few in number and do not generally record responses that may be definitely attributed to specific storms. Numerical wave simulations and observations at a variety of sites on the west Irish coast, however, provide insights into instantaneous and medium term (decadal) storm responses in such systems.

We argue that beaches and dunes that are attuned to modally high-energy regimes require extreme storms to cause significant morphological impact. The varying orientation of beaches, a spatially nonuniform storm catalogue and the need for a storm to occur at high water to produce measurable change, impart site-specific storm susceptibility to these embayments. Furthermore, we argue that long-period wave energy attenuation across dissipative shorefaces and beaches reduces coastal response to distant storms whereas short-period, locally generated wind waves are more likely to cause major dune and beach erosion as they arrive at the shoreline unrefracted.

This apparently variable response of beach and dune systems to storm forcing at a decadal scale over a coastline length of 200 km urges caution in generalising regarding regional-scale coastal responses to climatic change.     

Contrast in life histories of exploited fishes and ecosystem structures in coastal waters off west Canada and east Korea

By reviewing the history of fishery exploitation in the coastal waters of west Canada and east Korea, related with contrasting life history strategies of the dominant species, the fishery management challenges that each country would face in the upcoming decades were outlined. In the ecosystem of the Canadian western coastal waters, the dominant oceanographic feature is the coastal upwelling domain off the west coast of Vancouver Island, the northernmost extent of the California Current System in the eastern North Pacific. In the marine ecosystem of the eastern coasts of Korea (the Japan/East Sea), a major oceanographic feature is the Tsushima Warm Current, a branch of the Kuroshio Current in the western North Pacific. Fishes in the Canadian ecosystem are dominated by demersal, long-lived species such as flatfish, rockfish, sablefish, and halibut. During summer, migratory pelagic species such as Pacific hake, Pacific salmon, and recently Pacific sardine, move into this area to feed. In the late 1970s, Canada declared jurisdiction for 200 miles from their coastline, and major fisheries species in Canadian waters have been managed with a quota system. The overall fishing intensity off the west coast of Vancouver Island has been relatively moderate compared to Korean waters. Fishes in the ecosystem of the eastern Korean waters are dominated by short-lived pelagic and demersal fish. Historically, Korea has shared marine resources in this area with neighbouring countries, but stock assessments and quotas have only recently (since the late-1990s) been implemented for some major species. In the Korean ecosystem, fisheries can be described as intensive, and many stocks have been rated as overfished. The two ecosystems responded differently to climate impacts such as regime shifts under different exploitation histories. In the future, both countries will face the challenge of global warming and subsequent impacts on ecosystems, necessitating developing adaptive fisheries management plans. The challenges will be contrasting for the two countries: Canada will need to conserve fish populations, while Korea will need to focus on rebuilding depleted fish populations.     

Mapping beach morphodynamics remotely: A novel application tested on South African sandy shores

Sandy beaches have been identified as threatened ecosystems but despite the need to conserve them, they have been generally overlooked. Systematic conservation planning (SCP) has emerged as an efficient method of selecting areas for conservation priority. However, SCP analyses require digital shapefiles of habitat and species diversity. Mapping these attributes for beaches from field data can take years and requires exhaustive resources. This study thus sought to derive a methodology to classify and map beach morphodynamic types from satellite imagery. Since beach morphodynamics is a strong predictor of macrofauna diversity, they could be considered a good surrogate for mapping beach biodiversity. A dataset was generated for 45 microtidal beaches (of known morphodynamic type) by measuring or coding for several physical characteristics from imagery acquired from Google Earth. Conditional inference trees revealed beach width to be the only factor that significantly predicted beach morphodynamic type, giving four categories: dissipative, dissipative-intermediate, intermediate and reflective. The derived model was tested by using it to predict the morphodynamic type of 28 other beaches of known classification. Model performance was good (75% prediction accuracy) but misclassifications occurred at the three breaks between the four categories. For beaches around these breaks, consideration of surf zone characteristics in addition to beach width ameliorated the misclassifications. The final methodology yielded a 93% prediction accuracy of beach morphodynamic type. Overlaying other considerations on this classification scheme could provide additional value to the layer, such that it also describes species’ spatial patterns. These could include: biogeographic regions, estuarine versus sandy beaches and short versus long beaches. The classification scheme was applied to the South African shoreline as a case study. The distribution of the beach morphodynamic types was partly influenced by geography. Most of the long, dissipative beaches are found along the west coast of the country, the south coast beaches are mostly dissipative-intermediate, and the east coast beaches range from short, estuarine pocket and embayed beaches in the former Transkei (south east), to longer intermediate and reflective beaches in KwaZulu-Natal (in the north east). Once combined with the three biogeographic regions, and distinguishing between estuarine and sandy shores, the South African coast comprised 24 different beach types. Representing shorelines in this form opens up potential for numerous spatial analyses that can not only further our understanding of sandy beach ecology at large spatial scales but also aid in deriving conservation strategies for this threatened ecosystem.     

Experimental analysis of infragravity waves in two eroded microtidal beaches

This work aims to contribute to the characterization and understanding of infragravity waves on two beaches with erosion problems. For this reason, we have used an array of ADCP and a pressure sensor to measure wave parameters and pressure inside and outside of the surf zone during the dry and rainy period in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar (both dissipative and eroded beaches) located in the Colombian Caribbean coast. Based on these measurements, we have carried out a spectral analysis in order to identify the frequency components that characterize the wave and its energy; thus, we identified the characteristic frequencies of infragravity waves to finally filter the infragravity signal on each beach in different seasonal periods. Among the results of the Welch spectrum applied to surface elevation time series, we found that, the frequencies'' energy of the sea-swell band decreases due to bottom friction and wave breaking as the wave approaches the shore, while the frequencies'' energy of the infragravity band increases significantly. In addition, for the wavelet analysis, we could observe how the energy of the infragravity band, especially the lowest frequencies gain energy as the waves approaches the coast. Furthermore, based on the infragravity wave obtained from the extreme wave event registered during the field campaign we can conclude that the contribution of this signal is important in the erosion problems presented in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar. Finally, these results show the need to realize other studies that allow us to understand deeply, the role of infragravity waves on the morphological changes that occurs in these beaches.     

Multi-decadal shoreline change and beach connectivity in a high-energy sand system

ABSTRACT

Understanding how and why the world’s coastlines are changing is a pressing international concern in a context of rising sea levels, increased climatic variability and intensifying coastal development. Medium to long-term records of coastal change are rare worldwide and often limited to individual beach compartments. This study presents a 70-year (1940–2010) aerial imagery record to compare decadal changes in shoreline position across four high-energy west coast beaches near Auckland, New Zealand/Aotearoa: Whatipu, Karekare, Piha and Te Henga (Bethells). The common exposure of these adjacent mesotidal beaches to changing wind and wave conditions might, if they present the dominant controls on shoreline position, be expected to produce synchronous change. Whatipu (935?m), Piha (32?m) and Te Henga (52?m) showed net overall progradation for the study period, while Karekare retreated slightly (?4.1?m). All except Whatipu underwent periods of beachwide erosion. Shoreline change was not coherent between beaches, despite similar exposure to variations in wind, wave and sea level. Variable sediment supply from northward littoral drift is implicated as the primary control on decadal-scale shoreline change for these beaches, highlighting the importance of local context in influencing shoreline response to changing environmental conditions.     

Fishing gear substitution to reduce bycatch and habitat impacts: An example of social–ecological research to inform policy

This study examined the feasibility of gear substitution as a means to reduce bycatch and habitat impacts of fisheries, using a social–ecological systems approach. The U.S. west coast sablefish fishery is an excellent subject for this study, because it permits three different gear types and has a problem with bycatch of overfished species. Bycatch rates were highest in trawls and lowest in pots. Combining interview data with findings from a previous study, affirmed that habitat impacts were highest with trawls and lowest with longlines. Interviews with 44 individuals analyzed using grounded theory yielded several common themes in the opinions of gear substitution. Positive opinion themes included that it would allow better management of the fish populations by reducing bycatch and would allow more business options, flexibility, and increased profit for some trawlers. The main negative opinion theme was that gear substitution could decrease landings needed to support shoreside infrastructure. Most stakeholder groups saw some benefit in gear substitution. Notably, the trawlers voiced a unanimous preference for converting to pots rather than longlines. A scenario analysis revealed that the preferable management option would be long-term gear conversion, but incentives are likely to be an important means of encouraging gear conversion. This ecological impacts rapid assessment provided a regional evaluation of bycatch and habitat impacts that had never been conducted before for these gear types. It also provided scientific support for a regulatory change that legally allows trawlers to practice gear substitution.     

Spatial variation in meristic and morphometric characteristics of sardine Sardinops sagax around the coast of southern Africa

Spatial variability in phenotypic characteristics within a fish population may be used to infer the existence of multiple stocks, and knowledge of the population structure of exploited species is important for their sustainable management. In this study we investigated geographic variability in meristic (vertebral count) and morphometric (body shape) characteristics of sardine Sardinops sagax from three southern African regions: Namibia, the South African west coast, and the South African south coast. There were significant regional differences in vertebral counts, with Namibian fish tending to have more vertebrae than South African fish, but with no difference between sardine off the South African west and south coasts. Body shape was characterised using morphometric landmarks, and shape changes were investigated using geometric morphometrics, with influences on fish shape assessed using multivariate regressions. To remove the effects of allometry, the 22 shape variables (represented by Procrustes coordinates) were regressed against fish size (represented by centroid size). There was a significant allometric effect, which was removed by using the residuals of these regressions in further analyses. A multivariate multiple regression was applied to the 22 size-corrected shape variables and to three covariates: condition factor, stomach fullness and fat stage. The significant influence of these covariates was removed by using the residuals from this regression in a canonical variate analysis, where corrected shape variables were classified in relation to region, year and sex. The Mahalanobis distances from the canonical variate analysis differed significantly for most combinations of classifier variables, with clear separations among the three regions. Sardinops sagax off Namibia had thicker bodies and more contracted tail regions than South African fish, whereas S. sagax off the South African south coast had thinner bodies and smaller heads than those off the west coast. These results support the hypothesis of multiple sardine stocks around southern Africa.