Observation of the bottom boundary layer on the continental shelf

Current meter data from various depths near the sea bottom collected for 31 days at time intervals of 10 minutes using a subsurface buoy system at a depth at 38 m on the continental shelf off Akita, Japan have been analyzed. The results show the existence of a stationary Ekman layer. The typical range of the characteristic parameters are estimated as follows; friction velocity: 0.38 cm s^–1; Ekman layer thickness: 16 m; logarithmic layer thickness: 4 m–6 m; constant flux layer thickness: 0.4–0.6 m; Ekman veering: 28.7°; drag coefficient: 0.24×10^–2–0.53×10^–2. Veering was also observed in the logarithmic layer.     

Estimates of winter currents on the Israeli continental shelf

A simplified analytical model for continental shelf wind-driven currents is adopted. The calculated results compare favorably with extensive field measurements from two separate sources. The model is used to hindcast the current climatology on the Israeli continental shelf. The maximum northward/southward alongshore currents at 10-m water depth, with a return period of 100 years, are found to be 1.28 and 0.53 m/s, respectively.     

Waves and currents near the continental shelf edge

The abrupt depth increase which characterises the edge of many continental shelves determines a reduced horizontal length scale and a localised transition from shelf seas to the deep ocean. Particular forms of motion which may arise from the steep slopes include topographically guided currents along the slope, shelf-break upwelling, topographic Rossby waves and internal lee waves in the tidal current. The ocean/shelf mismatch may lead to a clear separation of water types, substantial reflection (from the shelf-edge neighbourhood) of all oceanic and shelf motions with periods greater than a few hours, and interaction between barotropic and baroclinic motions. Unstable longshelf currents, interleaving water masses, strong internal tides and internal waves, and narrow canyons enhance mixing across the shelf edge.     

Recent and modern marine erosion on the New Jersey outer shelf

Recent chirp seismic reflection data combined with multibeam bathymetry, backscatter, and analysis of grab samples and short cores provide evidence of significant recent erosion on the outer New Jersey shelf. The timing of erosion is constrained by two factors: (1) truncation at the seafloor of what is interpreted to be the transgressive ravinement surface at the base of the surficial sand sheet, and (2) truncation of apparently moribund sand ridges along erosional swales oriented parallel to the primary direction of modern bottom flow and oblique to the strike of the sand ridges. These observations place the erosion in a marine setting, post-dating the passage of the shoreface ravinement and the evolution of sand ridges that form initially in the near shore environment. Also truncated by marine erosion are shallowly buried, fluvial channel systems, formed during the Last Glacial Maximum and filled during the transgression, and a regional reflector “R” that is > ∼ 40 kyr. Depths of erosion range from a few meters to > 10 m. The seafloor within eroded areas is often marked by “ribbon” morphology, seen primarily in the backscatter data as areas of alternating high and low backscatter elongated in the direction of primary bottom flow. Ribbons are more occasionally observed in the bathymetry; where observed, crests exhibit low backscatter and troughs exhibit high backscatter. Sampling reveals that the high backscatter areas of the ribbons consist of a trimodal admixture of mud, sand and shell hash, with a bimodal distribution of abraded and unabraded sand grains and microfauna. The shell hash is interpreted to be an erosional lag, while the muds and unabraded grains are, in this non-depositional environment, evidence of recent erosion at the seafloor of previously undisturbed strata. The lower-backscatter areas of the ribbon morphology were found to be a well-sorted medium sand unit only a few 10's of cm thick overlying the shelly/muddy/sandy material. Concentrations of well-rounded gravels and cobbles were also found in eroded areas with very high backscatter, and at least one of these appears to be derived from the base of an eroded fluvial channel. Seafloor reworking over the transgressive evolution of the shelf appears to have switched from sand ridge evolution, which is documented to ∼ 40 m water depth, to more strictly erosional modification at greater water depths. We suggest that this change may be related to the reduction with water depth in the effectiveness of sediment resuspension by waves. Resuspension is a critical factor in the grain size sorting during transport by bottom currents over large bedforms like sand ridges. Otherwise, we speculate, displacement of sand by unidirectional currents will erode the seafloor.     

Fine vortex columns on the shelf in the area of bottom convection influence

This paper analyzes the results of investigations into extremely large releases of current velocities registered by an acoustic Doppler profiler during experiments performed on the Hawaii shelf. An integral analysis of the variability of current fields relies on the profile data of current velocities, temperature, and acoustic-scattering layers. Based on these investigations, we proposed a hypothesis stating that the small-scale variability of currents in profiler data is conditioned by the passage of fine vortices emerging in the outflow and rise of freshened waters from a subsurface sink near the shelf edge. To confirm this hypothesis on the emergence mechanism of the observed releases of current velocities, we conducted a mathematical simulation of the response that the Doppler meter has to the passage of fine vortex, which revealed a good agreement between model calculations and experimental data. Similar phenomena were also found in the Gelendzhik Bay of the Black Sea.     

Tracing nearshore bottom currents with sea-bed drifters

The experience acquired during 36 Woodhead drifter releases performed along the Tuscan coast is briefly reported. Without a costly apparatus, residual current patterns may be easily obtained with this method. Care should be taken, however, when sediment dispersal patterns are required, since weak currents which drag drifters slowly, displace only finer sediments.     

Effects of longshore shelf variations on barotropic continental shelf waves,slope currents and ocean modes

Effects of continental shelf bends, converging depth contours and changing depth profiles are discussed. Some analysis is carried out for previously unstudied cases. Separate oceanic interior and shelf flow problems are formulated for a sufficiently narrow shelf. The ocean interior ‘sees’ only an integrated shelf effect, typically increasing shelf-edge amplitudes, retarding longshore Kelvin-wave propagation and increasing natural mode periods by 0 (10%). On the local shelf, the flow matches to the ocean interior and is nondivergent. Effects on shelf waves and slope currents depend subtly on the nature of the longshore variations. Curvature and contour convergence do not per se imply scaterring or generation of shelf waves. Indeed, any depth h(ξ) where ▽² ξ(x,y) = 0 (a condition approximating longshelf uniformity in the topography's convexity) supports essentially the same shelf waves as do straight depth contours (DAVIS, 1983), and slope currents follow depth contours. Scattering results rather from breaks in analyticity of the depth profile. Hence calculations for small isolated features (necessarily highly convex or concave) may overestimate scattering, and superposition for realistic topography may lead to much self-cancellation among scattered waves. Otherwise, examples show a strong preference for scattering into adjacent mode numbers and into any shelf wave mode near to its maximum frequency. A shelf sector, where the maximum shelf wave frequency maxω is less than the frequency ω of an incident shelf wave, causes substantial scattering unless maxω and ω are very close. Adjustment of slope currents to changed conditions takes place through (and over the decay distance of) scattered shelf waves.     

Characteristics of outer shelf water in the East China Sea

Water mass properties along cross-sections of the Kuroshio in the East China Sea (ECS) are investigated in detail. We used temperature, salinity and dissolved oxygen data from 2000 and 2002, together with historical temperature and salinity data from 1987 to 2004. Water properties were divided into two groups: high and low salinities or oxygen at temperatures warmer than 15 and 12 °C, respectively. We found the existence of outer shelf water W2, as defined by clear modes in frequency distributions of salinity and oxygen within various temperature segments. The outer shelf water was different from both Kuroshio Tropical Water (KTW) and coastal water. We mapped horizontal and vertical distributions of W2, along with W1 and KTW. The outer shelf water was distributed with density σ _t = 22.5–25.5 over a relatively broad area, from the outer continental shelf to the continental slope, particularly in autumn. Vertical distribution of the water suggests that W2 spread from the outer shelf to just the shelf side of the Kuroshio Current velocity maximum. Seasonal variations are examined with historical data along PN section over 17 years, and suggest that the appearance of W2 is distinct in summer and autumn. By comparing temperature–salinity (T–S) diagrams from Taiwan Strait and east of Taiwan, the outer shelf water (W2) originates from South China Sea Tropical Water (SCSTW), as suggested by Chen, J Geophys Res 110:C05012 (2005). The present study of the ECS clearly shows that SCSTW is transported along the east coast of Taiwan or through the Taiwan Strait into the ECS. It then spreads over a relatively wide area from the outer shelf to just the shelf side of the Kuroshio axis, and there is some horizontal mixing between SCSTW and KTW around the shelf break.     

Celtic and Armorican slope and shelf residual currents

Current meter data collected over the last 20 years are presented and used to describe the residual currents on the Celtic and Armorican slope and shelf regions. On the slopes, a poleward current of about 6cm s⁻¹ exists at the 500m depth contour. At mid depths, these currents are directed onslope, whereas near the bottom the flow in markedly downslope, reaching mean speeds of about 15cm s⁻¹ near 6°40′W. The downslope currents are thought to be largely tidally induced and balanced by Stokes transports. The total slope transport near 48°N is about 4Sv. On the upper slopes (<1000m depth) the transport increases poleward. On the outer Celtic shelf, a weak (2 cm s⁻¹) counter-current flowing southeastwards was observed. On the Armorican shelf, the residual flow is again nothwestwards and this coastal flow appears to continue northwards across the mouth of the English Chanel and past the Isles of Scilly with typical mean upper layer speeds of about 2cm s⁻¹. Southwest of Ireland the flow is again northwesterly. Numerical model simulations show that the eastern slope boundary current of the NE Atlantic can be driven by realistic distributions of seawater density. The simulations also show only a small wind driven barotropic response on the Celtic and Armorican shelf region and that a component of the residual shelf flows, like the slope current, may be driven by pressure distributions arising from regional differences in the distribution of seawater density, or from non local wind stress.     

The bottom sediments of the Amazon shelf and tropical Atlantic Ocean

Analytical results of bottom sampling of the equatorial Atlantic Ocean affected by the Amazon River show a concentration of material smaller than 2 μ along the shore northwest of the mouth of the Amazon River for 2000 km. A zone having a high percentage of material coarser than 20 μ extends outward from the Amazon River and along the outer continental shelf northwestward for 2000 km. Areas having high carbonate percentages are encountered only on the outer shelf and in deep water.     

Sediment distribution and transport processes on the outer continental shelf of the Hebridean Sea

The major topographical features of the study area within the Hebridean Sea consist of two submarine banks lying at the edge of the outer continental shelf, an offshore island slope surrounding the Island of Barra-Head, a basin crossing the area in a SSE—NNW direction, and a deep trench.The present investigation suggests that the area was covered with glacial drifts and morainic accumulations during the Pleistocene and that during a subsequent low sea level the drifts were reworked around the topographically high areas. Much of the clay material has been transported to and deposited in regions off the continental slope.Recent conditions are represented by an erosional and depositional environment. The erosional environment is represented by the summit and leeward side of the two banks and the offshore island slope. In these areas tidal-induced currents and south-westerly swells continue to sweep the remaining sand, resulting in the formation of lag gravel deposits. The depositional environment in the basin results in homogeneous sand cover.     

海底扇对外大陆架划界的潜在影响

自《联合国海洋法公约》1994年生效以来,外大陆架划界工作引起了地质、法律等多学科研究者的共同关注。为论证海底扇这一特殊海底地形在外大陆架划界工作中可能产生的影响,通过对全球典型的10个海底扇共同特征的统计,运用CARIS LOTS 4.0划界软件,对《联合国海洋法公约》第76条中2大重要地质因素——大陆坡脚位置和沉积物厚度进行了分析和研究,对孟加拉海底扇、蒙特利尔海底扇及印度海底扇3个全球典型的海底扇进行了外大陆架区域的划界分析,探讨了海底扇的发育及其对地貌的改造作用,以及对划界结果可能造成的影响。结果显示,影响海底扇发育的3大主要因素——构造环境、沉积物供给和海平面变化,使大陆坡脚位置的确定成为大陆架划界工作中面临的首要且关键的问题,对外大陆架的划界结果有潜在影响。而海底扇复杂的地质背景和特征,无疑对划界时使用《联合国海洋法公约》中的规定条款提出了新的挑战。在考虑海底扇影响的前提之下,陆坡坡脚位置会因其地形的变化向前推进或后退,峡谷和水道的分布对选区剖面确定最大坡折点的位置也会带来较大影响。因此,在外大陆架划界工作中,不但需要考虑《联合国海洋法公约》中的法律条款,海底扇及影响其形态、分布等3大重要因素的规律性,也是未来划界工作中需要进一步深入研究的重要问题。     

On the measurements and analysis of ocean waves and currents on the Norwegian continental shelf

Environmental data, particularly wave and current data, are of vital importance in offshore engineering. The needs for such data are discussed with reference to the influence of various environmental parameters on the loads of offshore structures. Data collected until now from the Norwegian continental shelf are reviewed. Furthermore, a planned data collection program is presented and discussed with respect to experience with instrumentation techniques, data recovery, and representativity, as well as interpretation and analysis gained from the present activity in this field.     

High-resolution analysis of the deposition pattern on the Amazon sub-aquatic delta and outer continental shelf

Continental shelves off major river deltas or estuaries act as an interface between terrestrial environments and marine depo centers like the Amazon Fan. In order to understand sedimentary processes on the Amazon sub-aquatic delta and outer shelf, Late-Quaternary erosional and depositional structures have been investigated with an ultra high-resolution seismic survey system (4 kHz). The wavy morphology of the outer shelf implies the presence of tidal sand ridges or meandering channels. In the latter case, the local presence of channel fill deposits suggests several cut-off loops (ox bows). The inter-channel areas are consequently interpreted as levees, which reach their maximum height of 10 m in the area between the Amazon river mouth and the Amazon canyon. The morphology of terraces in front of the sub-aquatic delta reflect erosional processes which presumably occurred during accelerated sea level rise at the beginning and the end of the Younger Dryas. A carbonate platform is present in the northwestern survey area close to the shelf break. Its water depth of 120–130 m implies an evolution during the last glacial maximum. The asymmetric shape of the Cabo Norte Shoal on the topset of the sub-aquatic delta is typical of bottom current produced shoals. The steeper northwestern flank lies in the lee position of the northwest flowing coastal current. Southeast of the shoal the <10 m thick uppermost sequence of presumably Holocene age consists of lobes that dip with the same apparent angle as the foreset towards the offlap break. Within the area 20 km northwest of the shoal the uppermost sequence forms a smooth depression and may be erosionally truncated at the seafloor. Here, the prograding direction includes a northwest component. A shale diapir, which rises from a transparent underlying sequence, marks the transition to an area where the upper sequence is not resolved in the data.     

Late Quaternary sediments on the outer shelf of the Korea Strait and their paleoceanographic implications

Sedimentological and micropaleontological characteristics of core sediments from the outer shelf of the Korea Strait, which connects the northern East China Sea and the East Sea (Sea of Japan), were investigated to elucidate the paleoceanographic environment, especially the timing of the Kuroshio inflow, since the last glacial maximum. The core sediments, containing continuous records of the last 15,000 years, are characterized by a relatively high mud content (more than 50%, on average) and well-developed tide-influenced sedimentary structures. Their mineralogy suggests that the material originated from the paleo-Nakdong River system, which extended across the shelf of the Korea Strait during low sea-level periods. Planktonic foraminifers reveal a series of well-defined changes in paleoceanographic conditions during the late Pleistocene–Holocene. Down-core variations in the abundance of four foraminiferal assemblages, i.e., cold, coastal, tropical–subtropical, and Kuroshio water groups comprising characteristic planktonic species, suggest the occurrence of a distinct paleoenvironmental change in the surface water at 7,000 years b.p., i.e., from 15,000 to 7,000 years b.p., the area was influenced by coastal waters whereas since ca. 7,000 years b.p., it has been under the influence of open-sea water related to the Kuroshio Current flow, associated with both higher temperature and higher salinity. In particular, Pulleniatina obliquiloculata increased markedly in abundance at this time, documenting the inflow of the Kuroshio into the study area. These data indicate that the coastal water stage terminated at ca. 7,000 years b.p. when the warm Kuroshio and its major branch, the Tsushima Current, began to flow into the East Sea, as is the case today. The intrusion of the Tsushima Current through the Korea Strait after ca. 7,000 years b.p. resulted in abrupt changes in sedimentation rates and a dramatic increase in abundance of the Kuroshio indicator species, P. obliquiloculata.     

Mississippi-Alabama outer continental shelf topographic features formed during the late Pleistocene-Holocene transgression

A geophysical survey of the outer Missisippi-Alabama continental shelf revealed three types of topographic features: 1) reef-like mounds (RLM), 2) isobath-parallel ridges, and 3) shallow depressions. RLM appear to be bioherms. Their bases cluster in two isobath bands, 105 to 120 m and 74 to 82 m, implying the late Pleistocene-Holocene transgression was nonuniform. The deeper RLM probably formed during a slow sea level rise at the beginning of the deglaciation. An 11 ka BP C¹⁴ age was obtained from the summit of one, at a depth of 90 m. Depth relationships suggest the shallower RLM and most ridges formed about the time of the mid-deglacial Younger Dryas cooling episode.     

Effects of bottom topography and density stratification on the formation of western boundary currents

A wind-driven, general circulation for a two-layer ocean with continental shelf-slope along the western boundary is studied numerically. Special attention is focused on the formation process of the western boundary current in the subtropical gyre. The western boundary current develops in the upper layer along the western boundary on the shelf-slope with a bottom trapped poleward flow in the lower layer. The poleward undercurrent is concentrated approximately along the contour lines of the potential vorticity,f/D, wheref is the Coriolis parameter andD the depth of the ocean. The separation of upper- and lower-layer flows on the shelf-slope represents a typical transient response. As the response approaches a steady state, the poleward undercurrent decreases in amplitude, and the motion tends to be confined to the upper layer. The flow pattern becomes similar to that found in a flat bottom ocean. A steady-state response is expected to be isostatic (no motion in the lower layer), even on the shelf-slope, as conservation of potential vorticity would suggest.The remarkable increase in transport of the western boundary current produced by the formation of an anticyclonic vortex on the shelf-slope extending throughout the hemisphere (Holland, 1973) does not occur in the wind-driven general circulation.     

Statistical characteristics and the variability of currents over the western Black Sea shelf

Statistical characteristics and the parameters of the temporal variability of currents are analysed using data on current measurements conducted by five moored autonomous buoy stations over Bulgaria's shelf. Estimates of the specific contribution to the variability of synoptic (60%) and mesoscale (40%) oscillations are derived. The qualitative spectrum of the currents is defined, constituted by synoptic oscillations, short-period synoptic oscillations, inertial oscillations, and internal waves. Estimates of periods and oscillation amplitudes are also derived. The kinetic energy of the currents is calculated and the specific contribution of the energy of different-scale oscillations and their interrelations are determined.Translated by V. Puchkin.     

Thermohaline variability and Antarctic bottom water formation at the Ross Sea shelf break

We use hydrological and current meter data collected in the Ross Sea, Antarctica between 1995 and 2006 to describe the spatial and temporal variability of water masses involved in the production of Antarctic Bottom Water (AABW). Data were collected in two regions of known outflows of dense shelf water in this region; the Drygalski Trough (DT) and the Glomar-Challenger Trough (GCT). Dense shelf water just inshore of the shelf break is dominated by High Salinity Shelf Water (HSSW) in the DT and Ice Shelf Water (ISW) in the GCT. The HSSW in the northern DT freshened by ∼0.06 in 11 y, while the ISW in the northern GCT freshened by ∼0.04 in 8 y and warmed by ∼0.04 °C in 11 y, dominated by a rapid warming during austral summer 2001/02. The Antarctic Slope Front separating the warm Circumpolar Deep Water (CDW) from the shelf waters is more stable near GCT than near DT, with CDW and mixing products being found on the outer DT shelf but not on the outer GCT shelf. The different source waters and mixing processes at the two sites lead to production of AABW with different thermohaline characteristics in the central and western Ross Sea. Multi-year time series of hydrography and currents at long-term moorings within 100 km of the shelf break in both troughs confirm the interannual signals in the dense shelf water and reveal the seasonal cycle of water mass properties. Near the DT the HSSW salinities experienced maxima in March/April and minima in September/October. The ISW in the GCT is warmest in March/April and coolest between August and October. Mooring data also demonstrate significant high-frequency variability associated with tides and other processes. Wavelet analysis of near-bottom moored sensors sampling the dense water cascade over the continental slope west of the GCT shows intermittent energetic pulses of cold, dense water with periods from ∼32 h to ∼5 days.     

On numerical modelling of currents over the north-west shelf of the Black Sea

Water circulation in the north-west part of the Black Sea during the summer period is calculated by means of a complete non-linear thermohydrodynamic model. We have also studied the contribution of wind forcing, the thermohaline regime, the coastline configuration, and the bottom topography to the generation and transformation of a flow field. It has been shown that the thermohaline regime and wind forcing account for 30 and 70% of the total circulation, respectively. Variation in the nature of circulation at weak winds is due to thermohaline factors. Vertical motion plays a crucial role in theT, S- andH ₂ S-field formation.Translated by V. Puchkin.