Linear and nonlinear irregular waves and forces in a numerical wave tank

A time-domain higher-order boundary element scheme was utilized to simulate the linear and nonlinear irregular waves and diffractions due to a structure. Upon the second-order irregular waves with four Airy wave components being fed through the inflow boundary, the fully nonlinear boundary problem was solved in a time-marching scheme. The open boundary was modeled by combining an absorbing beach and the stretching technique. The proposed numerical scheme was verified by simulating the linear regular and irregular waves. The scheme was further applied to compute the linear and nonlinear irregular wave diffraction forces acting on a vertical truncated circular cylinder. The nonlinear results were also verified by checking the accuracy of the nonlinear simulation.     

Wave propagation in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank: A desingularized method

The problem of wave propagation in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank is studied using desingularized boundary integral equation method coupled with mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation. The present method is employed to solve the potential flow boundary value problem at each time step. The fourth-order predictor–corrector Adams–Bashforth–Moulton scheme is used for the time-stepping integration of the free surface boundary conditions. A damping layer near the end-wall of wave tank is added to absorb the outgoing waves with as little wave reflection back into the wave tank as possible. The saw-tooth instability is overcome via a five-point Chebyshev smoothing scheme. The model is applied to several wave propagations including solitary, irregular and random incident waves.     

完全非线性深水波的数值模拟

基于势流理论,并结合深水波质点运动从水面向下呈e指数衰减的特性,建立了完全非线性数值变深水槽模型,通过实时模拟活塞式造波机运动来产生波浪.采用时域高阶边界元法进行模拟,利用混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法和四阶Runge-Kutta方法追踪流体瞬时水面,应用镜像格林函数消除了水槽两个侧面的积分,在水槽末端布置人工阻尼层来消除反射...     

二维EMD 方法在微尺度波斜率波数谱提取中的应用

进行海面微尺度波频率分析时,为消除重力波影响,引入二维 EMD(经验模态分解)方法滤除造成频率混叠的长重力波,然后进行傅立叶变换,得到海面微尺度波谱,进一步处理得到斜率波数谱。斜率波数谱提取结果表明：采用二维EMD方法可以有效滤除图像中混叠的长波信息,在此基础上进行微尺度斜率波谱计算的结果与国外已有结果基本一致。文中还将二维 EMD 方法与小波方法的处理结果进行了比对,结果表明在滤除长波的影响时,二维EMD方法具有其较明显的优势。     

数值波浪水槽中完全非线性浅水波仿真特性研究

应用基于势流理论的时域高阶边界元方法,建立一个完全非线性的三维数值波浪水槽,通过实时模拟推板造波运动的方式产生波浪。通过混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法和四阶Runge-Kutta方法更新自由水面和造波板的瞬时位置。利用所建模型分别模拟了有限水深波和浅水波,与试验结果、相关文献结果和浅水理论结果吻合较好,且波浪能够稳定传播。系统地讨论造波板的运动圆频率、振幅和水深等对波浪传播和波浪特性的影响,并对波浪的非线性特性进行分析,研究发现造波板运动频率、运动振幅以及水深均将对波浪形态和波浪非线性产生显著影响。结果为真实水槽造波机的运动控制以及波浪生成试验提供了依据,便于实验室设置更合理的参数来准确模拟不同条件下的波浪。     

Numerical simulation of non-linear regular and focused waves in an infinite water-depth

Inviscid three-dimensional free surface wave motions are simulated using a novel quadratic higher order boundary element model (HOBEM) based on potential theory for irrotational, incompressible fluid flow in an infinite water-depth. The free surface boundary conditions are fully non-linear. Based on the use of images, a channel Green function is developed and applied to the present model so that two lateral surfaces of an infinite-depth wave tank can be excluded from the calculation domain. In order to generate incident waves and dissipate outgoing waves, a non-reflective wave generator, composed of a series of vertically aligned point sources in the computational domain, is used in conjunction with upstream and downstream damping layers. Numerical experiments are carried out, with linear and fully non-linear, regular and focused waves. It can be seen from the results that the present approach is effective in generating a specified wave profile in an infinite water-depth without reflection at the open boundaries, and fully non-linear numerical simulations compare well with theoretical solutions. The present numerical technique is aimed at efficient modelling of the non-linear wave interactions with ocean structures in deep water.     

完全非线性波浪与二维固定结构物作用的IGN-BEM耦合分析模型

为高效准确地对完全非线性波浪与二维固定结构物的相互作用进行模拟分析,建立了二维完全非线性时域耦合模型。耦合模型将计算域划分为靠近结构物的内域和远离结构物的外域,每个区域均采用满足完全非线性自由水面边界条件的波浪模型进行求解。在内域使用Laplace方程描述流体运动并采用高阶边界元法（BEM）对其进行求解;而在没有结构物的外域,波浪运动的控制方程为Irrotational Green-Naghdi（IGN）方程并采用有限元法（FEM）对其进行求解。内域和外域通过一段重叠区域进行耦合,从而实现模型间变量的传递。首先利用耦合模型分别对规则波的传播、直墙前立波的生成以及相关物理模型试验进行模拟,数值结果与精确解和试验结果的良好吻合验证了耦合模型耦合方式的合理性以及处理非线性问题的准确性;然后使用耦合模型模拟分析了波浪与固定结构物间的相互作用,并将结果与线性解析解以及完全非线性BEM模型的结果进行了对比分析,进一步证明了耦合模型的正确性与高效性。     

非线性波消波及波场分布研究

本文基于雷诺平均N-S方程,并结合RNG k-e方程建立了粘性数值波浪水槽,对不同波陡、不同相对水深、不同相对波高的非线性规则波的阻尼消波问题和波场分布进行研究。文中提出了两种描述消波区内部阻尼变化的阻尼函数,分别适用于小波陡情形和高波陡情形。研究结果表明,小波陡组消波区可设为一个波长,阻尼系数取10~4～10~5即可满足消波要求,计算结果与实验结果及造波理论吻合良好;高波陡组消波区可设为两个波长,阻尼系数取10~4～10~5亦可满足消波要求,计算结果与实验结果吻合良好。此外,当波陡较小时,波场内反射情况的小幅改变即可对整个波场造成影响,特别是当水深较浅时这种影响极为明显,需谨慎考虑。当波陡较大时,水波能量较高,整个波场沿水波传播方向可观测到明显的衰减现象,在具体试验中需进行考虑。     

淤泥质、粉沙质及沙质海岸航道回淤统一计算方法

根据20世纪80年代初提出的淤泥质海岸航道回淤计算方法的基础上,开展了拓展研究,使之统一适用于淤泥质海岸、粉沙质海岸及沙质海岸。主要研究内容有,在波浪和潮流综合作用下挟沙力含沙量研究中引入了特定的泥沙因子F1/F,从而挟沙力含沙量公式不仅适用于淤泥质泥沙,也适用于非淤泥质泥沙;在动力因素方面,除了一般寻常潮和波浪动力外,进一步考虑了风暴潮和破波的巨大掀沙能力造成航道骤淤的可能性。并结合连云港30万吨级主航道扩建及徐圩港区10万吨级航道的回淤问题(包括骤淤可能性问题),京唐港外航道和黄骅港外航道的骤淤问题,进行预测计算及校验计算,结果都是良好的。此外,对杭州湾强潮和涌潮情况下的挟沙力含沙量也进行了校验计算,结果也非常满意。     

Efficient computation of surf zone waves using the nonlinear shallow water equations with non-hydrostatic pressure

A numerical method for non-hydrostatic, free-surface, irrotational flow governed by the nonlinear shallow water equations including the effects of vertical acceleration is presented at the aim of studying surf zone phenomena. A vertical boundary-fitted grid is used with the water depth divided into a number of layers. A compact finite difference scheme is employed for accurate computation of frequency dispersion requiring a limited vertical resolution and hence, capable of predicting the onset of wave breaking. A novel wet–dry algorithm is applied for a proper handling of moving shoreline. Mass and momentum are strictly conserved at discrete level while the method only dissipates energy in the case of wave breaking. The numerical results are verified with a number of tests and show that the proposed model using two layers without ad-hoc assumptions enables to resolve propagating nonlinear shoaling, breaking waves and wave run-up within the surf and swash zones in an efficient manner.     

Numerical simulation for the two-dimensional nonlinear shallow water waves

This study deals with the general numerical model to simulate the two-dimensional tidal flow, flooding wave (long wave) and shallow water waves (short wave). The foundational model is based on nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Numerical method for modelling the short waves is investigated in detail. The forces, such as Coriolis forces, wind stress, atmosphere and bottom friction, are considered. A two-dimensional implicit difference scheme of Boussinesq equations is proposed. The low-reflection outflow open boundary is suggested. By means of this model,both velocity fields of circulation current in a channel with step expansion and the wave diffraction behind a semi-infinite breakwater are computed, and the results are satisfactory.     

An Efficient Hydrodynamic Model for Surface Waves

In the present study,a semi-implicit finite difference model for non-bydrostatic,free-surface flows is analyzed and discussed.The governing equations are the three-dimensional free-surface Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations defined on a general,irregular domain of arbitrary scale.At outflow,a combination of a sponge layer technique and a radiation boundary condition is applied to minimize wave reflection.The equations are solved with the fractional step method where the hydrostatic pressure component is determined first,while the non-hydrostatic component of the pressure is computed from the pressure Poisson equation in which the coefficient matrix is positive definite and symmetric.The advectiou and horizontal viscosity terms are discretized by use of a semi-Lagrangian approach.The resulting model is computationally efficient and unrestricted to the CFL condition.The developed model is verified against analytical solutions and experimental data,with excellent agreement.     

Extended mild-slope equation for random waves

A time-dependent extended mild-slope equation is derived from the elliptic equation of Chamberlain and Porter [J. Fluid Mech. 291 (1995) 393] using the Taylor series technique. Numerical tests are made on a horizontally one-dimensional case for regular waves over sloping beds and for both regular and irregular waves over a ripple patch. Numerical results prove that the proposed model gives accurate results for both regular and irregular waves over rapidly varying topography.     

Generation of random waves in time-dependent extended mild-slope equations using a source function method

We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary.     

Efficient Generation of Freak Waves in Laboratory

In the present study,Kriebel's method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory.The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tank.The freak waves are more nonlinear than what generated with Kriebel's method of the same energy.It can also generate freak waves to satisfy all the qualifications of the adopted definition with less energy than Kriebel's and can hardly influence the significant wave height.     

Fully nonlinear wave-body interactions with surface-piercing bodies

Fully nonlinear wave-body interactions for stationary surface-piercing single and double bodies are studied by a potential-theory-based fully nonlinear 2D numerical wave tank (NWT). The NWT was developed in time domain by using boundary element method (BEM) with constant panels. MEL free surface treatment and Runge–Kutta fourth-order time integration with smoothing scheme was used for free-surface time simulation. The acceleration-potential scheme is employed to obtain accurate time derivative of velocity potential. Using the steady part of nonlinear force time histories, mean and a series of higher-harmonic force components are calculated and compared with the experimental and numerical results of other researchers. The slow-decaying second-harmonic vertical forces are investigated with particle velocities and corresponding body pressure. Typical patterns of two-body interactions, shielding effect, and the pumping/sloshing modes of water column in various gap distances are investigated. The pumping mode in low frequencies is demonstrated by the comparison of velocity magnitudes.     

不规则波浪数值水槽的造波和阻尼消波

利用MAC(marker and cell)法直接数值求解连续方程和N-S方程.为模拟不规则波长时段连续造波及消除波浪遇结构物后形成的二次反射,采用了源造波法.对开敞边界,采用了海绵阻尼消波和Sommerfeld条件相结合的处理方式.     

卷破波作用下沙质岸滩剖面形态判别式初探

通过波浪水槽实验,开展不同类型波浪作用下的沙质岸滩演化规律研究工作。本次实验研究不考虑比尺,采用1:10与1:20组成的复合沙质斜坡对岸滩进行概化,选取规则波和椭圆余弦波两种典型波浪作用,对波浪的传播、变形和破碎、上爬、回落过程以及波浪作用前后沙质岸滩床面地形进行了观测,探讨波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面演化规律。本文实验工况中,规则波作用下,岸滩剖面呈现出沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面,椭圆余弦波作用下的岸滩剖面均呈滩肩形态,发现岸滩剖面形态不仅与波浪作用类型、强度、周期等因素相关,还与波浪破碎的强度等因素有关。通过对实验过程中现象的进行观察和分析,引入了卷破波水舌冲击角的概念。对波浪卷破破碎后形成的水流挟沙运动与岸滩剖面形态的关系进行定性分析,对水舌冲击角与Irribarren参数之间的关系进行定量分析,基于Irribarren参数与岸滩剖面形态的关系初步建立了波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面形态判别关系式。通过本文实验结果和前人实验结果对趋势线进行拟合,求得其判别系数,判别式能够较好地划分淤积型岸滩、侵蚀型岸滩及过渡型岸滩三种岸滩形态。