论风浪的局域结构：II.风浪局域小波能谱的性质及应用

引入了局域小波能谱的局域间歇性度量,分析了不同风速下的风浪资料,结果表明,局域小波能谱可依局域频率分为三部分,风浪的群性在三维局域小波能谱团像下显示得更为明显,与风浪有关的一切性质都是局域的,包括风浪的群性,讨论了局域小波谱峰值与谱峰频率的涨落,指出了前者在工程设计中的重要意义,并发现了后者与风浪破碎有关的两种非线性现象。     

风浪局域小波谱峰的涨落

将湍流研究中已得到有效应用的局域小波能谱概念引入到风浪研究.分析了实验室不同风速下风浪的局域小波能谱.结果表明,局域小波谱峰值存在着显着的涨落,涨落的方差随风速的增加而增大.这不仅体现了风浪的局域结构,还意味着通常风浪谱的应用中除了要考虑平均意义下的频谱峰值外,还必须考虑局域小波谱峰值的涨落方差.     

论风浪的局域结构──Ⅱ.风浪局域小波能谱的性质及应用

引入了局域小波能谱的局域间歇性度量,分析了不同风速下的风浪资料,结果表明,局域小波能谱可依局域频率分为三部分。风浪的群性在三维局域小波能谱图像下显示得更为明显,与风浪有关的一切性质都是局域的,包括风浪的群性。讨论了局域小波谱峰值与谱峰频率的涨落,指出了前者在工程设计中的重要意义,并发现了后者与风浪破碎有关的两种非线性现象。     

含单负特异材料一维无序扰动周期结构中的光子局域特性研究

采用传输矩阵法研究了电磁波在由单负特异材料组成的一维无序扰动周期结构中的Anderson局域(Anderson Localization)行为,分别讨论了色散和非色散两种模型.结果发现,在对应周期结构的通带位置,无序的引入对局域长度的影响较大,而在带隙位置,影响较小,几乎可以忽略.该性质与我们曾讨论的随机结构有较明显不同.导致这种局域性质的主要原因应为,光在单负材料组成的系统中的传输主要依赖于两种单负材料间的界面.在无序扰动结构中,该界面数相对于周期结构并没有减少,因此对光的传输性质影响较小;而随机结构中     

实测风浪频谱的易变性

本文应用一种具有局域保真性的组成波分解方法(子波变换),对实测风浪波面进行分析.结果表明:风浪不同组成波的相位之间,彼此的耦合远强于各自随机特征,组成波的相位不是相互独立的随机变量;风浪平衡域内的高频组成波表现为不规则的间歇性波动,而不是平面波;通过一个简化动力学模式证明,造成上述间歇性的成因是无时不存在的低频海水运动;由此得到结论,实测风浪频谱具有易变性.     

柔性结构养殖网箱的抗风浪性能试验报告

本文报道了以柔性绳索作为承爱和传递波浪作用力的主结构的柔性养殖网箱的抗风浪性能试验结果。在9914号特大台风的正面袭击下，这种网箱能基本保持完好，表明它具有十分优越的抗风浪性能。通过对试验环境的初步分析表明，该网箱系统能抵抗住海面波高在4．7米以下、波长在76．95米以内的台风浪袭击，可满足福建省大部分近海海面在十年一遇台风重现期条件下的近海网箱抗风浪养殖的要求。     

基于风浪联合概率模型的海洋平台结构系统可靠度分析

基于多变量极值理论的联合概率模型,根据BZ28—1油田一年多的风浪同步观测资料统计得到风浪联合概率分布及其参数,讨论了海洋平台结构系统可靠度分析的等效荷载方法,在此基础上分析了JZ20—2MUQ平台结构的系统可靠度,并与不考虑风浪相关性影响的JZ20—2MUQ平台结构的系统可靠度比较,得到了风浪相关性对系统可靠度的影响情况。     

大洋中涌浪对风浪能量的影响

由于涌浪与风浪在特征物理参量及成长、衰亡上的显著不同,区分风涌浪以及研究涌浪对风浪的影响尤为重要。本文使用2013年及2015年大洋中的WaMoSⅡ测波雷达观测数据,研究了涌浪对风浪能量的影响。由于测波雷达仅使用了9s的有效周期作为谱分离判据,其所得风浪有效波高显著高于PM谱充分成长关系给出的波高。因此本文结合2D法与1D法,加入风速、风浪夹角、波龄等要素给出新的判据,重新对风、涌浪进行了分离。通过对比不同的波龄判据,发现当波龄取1.5时,所得结果与PM谱吻合良好。以Toba-3/2定律为基础,研究了不同类型涌浪对风浪能量的影响。发现三种类型涌浪存在时,风浪能量及有效波高整体上都有所增加,其中尤其以反向涌浪存在时增加最多。     

大型风浪水槽风浪统计特征的测量和分析

研究大型风浪水槽的风浪统计特征，采用多通道测波系统，同步采集沿水槽的１２个测点在不同风速下的风浪数据，从观测事实上分析风浪波面分布和有关要素特征，并建立水槽风浪统计要素与风速，风区长度之间的关系     

风浪状态对海面风应力影响的初步研究

利用新近提出的海面风应力系数线性参数化理论,定性地分析了已有风应力和风浪的观测数据。分析发现这些观测数据表明在小波陡的情形下海面风应力系数随风速的变化较大波陡的情形更加迅速。结果定性地倾向于支持Toba等的结果,即成熟的风浪较年轻的风浪更加粗糙。     

稳定风浪场谱特征量间的关系

风浪宏观特征量是描述风浪场特征的重要物理量。作者基于风浪有停留在混乱运动状态的趋势的性质对风浪场特征量间的关系进行了研究。主频波频率附近的波动自风摄取能量,风浪吸收的能量通过非线性相互作用在谱中重新分配。谱中能量的重新分配产生多尺度波动,这导致风浪波面的混乱运动(风浪处于混乱运动状态)。在稳定状态,风浪运动最为混乱。当风浪状态偏离最混乱运动状态,谱中非线性相互作用引起的能量重新分配将使风浪回到该状态。基于线性海浪理论导出风浪场特征量间的关系。导出的关系与观测结果进行了对比,发现理论结果与观测结果很好地符合。风浪场宏观特征量间存在固有关系。尽管目前风浪场特征量关系的观测结果存在差异,但本文中证明,所导出的理论关系与实验结果很好地符合。     

Fluctuations of peak energy and peak frequency of local wavelet energy spectrum for wind waves

Ｆｌｕｃｔｕａｔｉｏｎｓ　ｏｆ　ｐｅａｋ　ｅｎｅｒｇｙ　ａｎｄ　ｐｅａｋ　ｆｒｅｑｕｅｎｃｙ　ｏ　ｌｏｃａｌ　ｗａｖｅｌｅｔ　ｅｎｅｒｇｙ　ｓｐｅｃｔｒｕｍ　ｆｏｒ　ｗｉｎｄ　ｗａｖｅｓTXＦｌｕｃｔｕａｔｉｏｎｓｏｆｐｅａｋｅｎｅｒｇｙａｎｄｐｅａｋ...     

海浪局部频率及波面水质点局部速度的统计分布

根据平稳正态随机过程和Ｈｉｌｂｅｒｔ变换的性质,推导了海浪局部频率及波面水质点局部速度的统计分布,以Ｐｉｅｒｓｏｎ－Ｍｏｓｃｏｗｉｔｚ谱为例进行了讨论。本文的结果为解释与海上结构物ｒｉｎｇｉｎｇ现象产生有关的海浪事件提供了一种可能的参考依据。     

随机海浪的列率谱分析研究

首次将列率谱分析的方法引入到随机海浪的研究。根据不同环境条件下实验室资料，对列率谱与频率谱进行了比较。结果表明，列率频对频率谱高频部分有明显改善，特别对二倍频含能段的分辨具有明显的优越性。另外，列率谱具有计算速度快、简单易行、分辨率高等优点。     

Generation mechanisms for capillary-gravity wind wave spectrum

We investigate the role of different physical mechanisms in the generation of the capillary-gravity wind wave spectrum. This spectrum is calculated by integrating a nonstationary kinetic equation until the solution becomes stready. The mechanisms of spectrum generation under consideration include three-wave interactions, viscous dissipation, energy influx from wind, nonlinear dissipation, and the generation of a parasitic capillary ripple. The three-wave interactions are taken into account as an integral of collisions without additional simplifications. It is shown that the three-wave interactions lead to solution instability if the kinetic equation takes into account only linear sources. To stabilize the solution, the kinetic equation should incorporate a nonlinear dissipation term, which in the range of short gravity waves corresponds to energy losses during wave breaking and microscale wave breaking. In the range of capillary waves, the account of nonlinear dissipation is also needed to ensure a realistic level of the spectrum for large wind velocities. For the steady-state spectrum, the role of three-wave interactions remains essential merely in the range of the minimum of phase velocity, where a trough on the curvature spectrum is formed. At the remaining intervals of the spectrum, the main contribution into the spectral energy balance is provided by the mechanisms of wave injection, nonlinear dissipation, and the generation of parasitic capillaries.     

Pressure transfer function in time and time-frequency domains

In this paper, we define a time-domain pressure transfer function calculated from SIWEH (smoothed instantaneous wave energy history) transforms, and a time-frequency domain pressure transfer function calculated from wavelet transforms, of synchronized wave and pressure data. It is our objective to study whether the time-domain pressure transfer function and the time-frequency domain pressure transfer function can provide new interpretation of wind wave behaviors. The detail structure of local time-frequency pressure transfer function in three-dimensional plot from wavelet transform is not employed due to its large variations, instead the time-integral wavelet spectral pressure transfer function and frequency-integral wavelet SIWEH pressure transfer function are used. These two averaged pressure transfer functions are smooth approximations of frequency-domain Fourier and time-domain SIWEH pressure transfer functions, respectively.Application to real ocean waves reveals that in frequency-domain the measured Fourier and wavelet spectral pressure transfer functions can be approximated by the linear pressure transfer function in the dominant wave range. In time-domain, the wavelet SIWEH pressure transfer function is a better indicator of wind wave behaviors than the SIWEH pressure transfer function. A value higher than 0.5 for the wavelet SIWEH pressure transfer function is a good discriminator of relative shallow-water long waves and wave groups are mostly composed of relative low frequency long waves.     

Effects of three-wave interactions in the gravity-capillary range of wind waves

The formation of the spectrum of short wind waves from the gravity-capillary and capillary ranges under the effect of three-wave interactions is considered. In order to determine the spectrum, the kinetic equation for wave packets is integrated to the point where the solution is established. Three-wave interactions are described by a collision integral without introducing any additional assumptions simplifying the problem. This calculation procedure reproduces the Zakharov-Filonenko theoretical spectra, which correspond to the cases of energy equipartition and the inertial range. It is shown that the main role of three-wave interactions lies in the energy transfer from the range of short gravity waves to waves with shorter wavelengths. This transfer is accomplished both locally in the Fourier space and as a result of interactions between short and long waves. Its characteristic features are the formation of a dip on the curvature spectrum in the region of a minimum phase velocity of waves and the formation of a secondary peak in the capillary range. The dip is filled and disappears as the wind speed increases. Taking into account the interaction between short and long waves increases the spectrum in the capillary range several times, and the balance between energy input from long waves and viscous dissipation is established in the capillary range. The energy sink caused by three-wave interactions, viscous dissipation, and wind forcing cannot give the stability of the spectrum of short gravity waves.     

世界大洋长历时局地风速和有效波高的统计与分析

本文基于美国海军测地卫星高度计提供的全球范围长历时局地平均风速和有效波高资料进行统计分析,结果表明,世界大洋长历时局地平均风速和有效波高有明显的相关性,其散布点系统地位于Wilson提出的深水充分成长风浪平均风速和有效波高经验曲线之上;并从能量叠加平衡方程,近似定量估计出大洋中长历时涌浪有效波高与局地平均风速的关系。