Numerical Study of Influence of Currents on Nonlinear Focusing Waves

In this paper,a numerical model for nonlinear wave propagation in currents is formulated by a set of enhanced fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations with ambient currents.This model is verified by comparison with the published results.Then the influence of currents on nonlinear focusing waves is studied by use of the numerical model.It is found that the effect of currents on the surface elevations at the focal location is negligible.Following currents can augment the maximum crest of focusing wave while decre...     

Numerical Simulation of Freak Waves Based on the Four-Order Nonlinear Schroelinger Equation

A numerical wave model based on the modified four-order nonlinear Schoedinger （NKS） equation in deep water is developed to simulate freak waves. A standard split-step, pseudo-spectral method is used to solve NLS equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, and then the simulation of freak waves is perforated by changing sideband condi- tions. Results show that freak waves entirely consistent with the definition in the evolution of wave trains are obtained. The possible occurrence mechanism of freak waves is discussed and the relevant characteristics are also analyzed.     

Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Three Dimensional Waves in Water of Arbitrary Varying Topography

—The numerical simulation is based on the authors＇high-order models with a dissipative termfor nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth.Corresponding finite-difference equations andgeneral conditions for open and fixed natural boundaries with an arbitrary reflection coefficient and phaseshift are also given in this paper.The systematical tests of numerical simulation show that the theoreticalmodels,the finite-difference algorithms and the boundary conditions can give good calculation results forthe wave propagating in shallow and deep water with an arbitrary slope varying from gentle to steep.     

Numerical Models of Higher-Order Boussinesq Equations and Comparisons with Laboratory Measurement

Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally and numerically. The applicability of two different wave propagation models has been investigated. One is higher-order Boussinesq equations derived by Zou (1999) and the other is the classic Boussinesq equations. Physical experiments are conducted, three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set up in the experiment and their effects on wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of numerical results with test data are made, the model of higher-order Boussinesq equations agrees much better with the measurements than the model of the classical Boussinesq equations. The results show that the higher-order Boussinesq equations can also be applied to the steeper slope case although the mild slope assumption is employed in the derivation of the higher order terms of higher order Boussinesq equations.     

非线性波浪时域计算的三维耦合模型

将计算区域Ω划分为内域Ω₁和外域Ω₂(Ω₂=Ω-Ω₁),外域控制方程采用改进线性频散特性的二维Boussinesq方程,用预报一校正法数值求解;结构物附近的内域控制方程为三维Navier-Stokes方程,由VOF方法数值求解。通过在外域和内域相匹配的交界面上设置合适的速度和波面边界条件,建立了三维非线性波浪时域计算的耦合模型。模拟试验表明:(1)耦合模型数值波浪水池可以产生稳定的、重复性较好的波动过程;(2)用耦合模型数值波浪水池求解较大浅水区域上的非线性波浪数值计算问题可以取得较高的计算效率,同时又能得出结构物附近的复杂流场。     

A Numerical Model of Nonlinear Wave Propagation in Curvilinear Coordinates

For the simulation of the nonlinear wave propagation in coastal areas with complex boundaries,a numerical model is developed in curvilinear coordinates. In the model,the Boussinesq-type equations including the dissipation terms are employed as the governing equations. In the present model,the dependent variables of the transformed equations are the free surface elevation and the utility velocity variables,instead of the usual primitive velocity variables. The introduction of utility velocity variables which...     

A 3-D time-domain coupled model for nonlinear waves acting on a box-shaped ship fixed in a harbor

A 3-D time-domain numerical coupled model is developed to obtain an efficient method for nonlinear waves acting on a box-shaped ship fixed in a harbor. The domain is divided into the inner domain and the outer domain. The inner domain is the area beneath the ship and the flow is described by the simplified Euler equations. The remaining area is the outer domain and the flow is defined by the higher-order Boussinesq equations in order to consider the nonlinearity of the wave motions. Along the interface boundaries between the inner domain and the outer domain, the volume flux is assumed to be continuous and the wave pressures are equal. Relevant physical experiment is conducted to validate the present model and it is shown that the numerical results agree with the experimental data. Compared the coupled model with the flow in the inner domain governed by the Laplace equation, the present coupled model is more efficient and its solution procedure is simpler, which is particularly useful for the study on the effect of the nonlinear waves acting on a fixed box-shaped ship in a large harbor.     

Numerical Calculation for Nonlinear Waves in Water of Arbitrarily Varying Depth with Boussinesq Equations

Based on the high order nonlinear and dispersive wave equation with a dissipalive term, a numerical model for nonlinear waves is developed. It is suitable to calculate wave propagation in water areas with an arbitrarily varying bottom slope and a relative depth h/ L0≤ 1. By the application of the completely implicit slagger grid and central difference algorithm, discrete governing equations are obtained. Although the central difference algorithm of second-order accuracy both in time and space domains is used to yield the difference equations, the order of truncation error in the difference equation is the same as that of the third-order derivatives of the Boussinesq equation. In this paper, the correction to the first-order derivative is made, and the accuracy of the difference equation is improved. The verifications of accuracy show that the results of the numerical model are in good agreement with those of analytical solutions and physical models.     

Numerical Model of Cnoidal Wave Flume

The volume of fluid(VOF)method is used to set up a wave flume with an absorbing wavemaker of cnoidal waves.Based on the transfer function between wave surface and paddle velocity obtained bythe shallow water wave theory,the velocity boundary condition of an absorbing wave maker is introduced toabsorb reflected waves that reach the numerical wave maker.For H/d ranging from 0.1 to 0.59 and T(g/d)~(1/2)from 7.9 to 18.3,the parametric studies have been carried out and compared with experiments.     

Numerical Simulation of Waves Interaction with A Submerged Horizontal Twin-Plate Breakwater

The numerical investigation of regular waves interacting with a submerged horizontal twin-plate breakwater is presented in this paper. A numerical model with an absorbing wave-maker is established based on the VOF method. The validity of the model is verified by experimental results. Comparisons between the numerical and experimental results show that both the water surface profiles and the wave-induced pressures can be modeled accurately. Wave deformation over the breakwater,water particle velocities aroun...     

非线性弱色散波内部流场的重构

基于势流理论和级数直接求逆方法,本文建立了基于Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程或Ｇｒｅｅｎ－Ｎａｇｈｄｉ方程给出的水深平均流速或某特征流速及波面信息重构非线性弱色散波内部流场的算法。以Ｂｏｕｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程的孤立波解为例,用本反演方法计算了孤立波的表面水平流速及底部水平流速。结果表明本算法是有效的。本反演算法可用于获取非线性弱色散波的内部流场的详细信息。     

非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型及其实验验证

以一种新型的Boussinesq型方程为控制方程组,采用五阶Runge-Kutta-England格式离散时间积分,采用七点差分格式离散空间导数,并通过采用恰当的出流边界条件,从而建立了非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型.通过对均匀水深水域内波浪传播的数值模拟说明,模型能较好地模拟大水深水域和强非线性波的传播.通过设置不同的入射波参数来进行潜堤地形上波浪传播的物理模型实验,并将数值解与物理模型实验结果进行了比较.     

Theoretical Model and Random Simulation for Nonlinear Interaction of Irregular Waves with Vertical Wall

According to the theoretical solutions for the nonlinear three-dimensional gravity surface waves and their interactions with vertical wall previously proposed by the lead author, in this paper an exact second-order random model of the unified wave motion process for nonlinear irregular waves and their interactions with vertical wall in uniform current is formulated, the corresponding theoretical nonlinear spectrum is derived, and the digital simulation model suitable to the use of the FFT (Fast Fourier Tansform) algorithm is also given. Simulations of wave surface, wave pressure, total wave pressure and its moment are performed. The probability properties and statistical characteristics of these realizations are tested, which include the verifications of normality for linear process and of non-normality for nonlinear process; the consistances of the theoretical spectra with simulated ones; the probability properties of apparent characterstics, such as amplitudes, periods, and extremes (maximum and minimum, positive and negative extremes). The statistical analysis and comparisons demonstrate that the proposed theoretical and computing models are realistic and effective, the estimated spectra are in good agreement with the theoretical ones, and the probability properties of the simulated waves are similar to those of the sea waves. At the same time, the simulating computation can be completed rapidly and easily.     

A Model for Nonlinear Irregular Waves in Coastal Area

Based on the refraction-diffraction theory of irregular waves in the waters of slowly-varying cur-rents and depths,and the generation dissipation theory of wind wave,a model for nonlinear irregular wavesin coastal area is developed.In light of the specific conditions of coastal wave character and engineering ap-plication,a practical mathematical model for the nonlinear irregular waves is presented.with directional spec-trum in coastal area.Coast effect,refraction,whitecapping.bottom friction.current,wind and nonlinearaction are considered in this model.The numerical methods and schemes for wave refraction ray,energy con-servation of propagation,energy balance of the generation and dissipation of wind waves have been studied.Finally,the model is used for the directional wave spectrum computation in the Daya Bay.Compared withthe measured data with 956 wave bouys in the Daya Bay,the model results are in good agreement with themeasured results.     

台湾岛东北海域潮致内孤立波二维数值模拟

现场观测和卫星遥感SAR图片均表明,台湾岛东北海域存在大量复杂的、无规则的内孤立波(列)。本文采用完全非线性非静力平衡的MITgcm模式,分别采用M2和K1分潮驱动,对该海域内孤立波的生成过程及其机制进行了二维数值模拟研究。研究揭示,该海域的内孤立波主要源于附近2个海槛处的潮地相互作用。正压潮流流经海脊时会激发内孤立波,潮流由退潮转换为涨潮时激发西向传播的内孤立波,由涨潮转换为退潮时则激发东向传播的内孤立波。通过对潮汐偏移及地形弗鲁德数的分析表明,内孤立波的产生机制是混合山后波机制。在海槛西侧,内孤立波在涨潮时向西传播,在落潮时受背景潮流的限制,西传速度明显减慢,甚至停滞;在海槛东侧,存在东传的第二模态内孤立波,并最终在向深海传播过程中逐渐消亡。本文设计了6个敏感性试验,以考察不同因子对内孤立波的生成和传播过程的影响。不同分潮驱动的数值实验表明,此区域的内孤立波主要是由半日分潮M2引起的,由于靠近全日分潮的临界纬度,单独的K1分潮不激发内孤立波。其他敏感性实验显示,海水层化对内孤立波的生成和传播有较大影响;科氏力对内孤立波的传播速度有一定的影响。     

Numerical modeling of multi-directional irregular waves incorporating 2-D numerical wave absorber and subgrid turbulence

In this paper, a finite difference scheme with an efficient 2-D numerical wave absorber for solving the extended Boussinesq equations as derived by Nwogu (Nwogu, O., 1993. Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation. J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, ASCE 119, 618–638) is proposed. The alternate direction iterative method combined with an efficient predictor-corrector scheme are adopted for the numerical solution of the governing differential equations. To parameterize the contribution of unresolved small-scale motions, the philosophy of the large eddy simulation is applied on the horizontal plane. The proposed method is verified by two test cases where experimental data are available for comparison. The first case is wave diffraction around a semi-infinite breakwater studied by Briggs et al. (Briggs, M.J., Thompson, E.F., Vincent, C.L., 1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE 121, 23–35). The other case is wave concentration by a navigation channel as reported by Yu et al. (Yu, Y.-X., Liu, S.-X., Li, Y.S., Wai, O.W.H., 2000. Refraction and diffraction of random waves through breakwater. Ocean Engineering 27, 489–509). Numerical results agree very well with the corresponding experimental data in both cases.     

用含高色散性Boussinesq方程模拟潜堤上的波浪变形

基于一种高阶Boussiensq方程(刘忠波等,2004),采用预报-校正格式的有限差分法对该方程进行了数值离散,建立了数值模型。针对动量方程中三阶项的差分形式,采用了迎风格式和五点格式。通过数值模拟常水深下不同周期波浪传播变形,指出迎风格式在计算小周期波浪时存在的问题。为进一步验证数值模型的适用性,模拟了淹没潜堤上的传播变形。从数值结果与实验值的对比结果上看,该数值模型能较好地模拟波浪变形,可用于模拟实际中的波浪场问题。     

一种新型二阶全非线性Boussinesq方程及其数值验证

通过改进二阶全非线性 Boussinesq 波浪方程中的色散项,得到了一组没有改变原方程的数学形式但适用于更大变化水深的新方程,其色散性能和变浅性能都比原方程有了很大改进,所适用的水深范围更大,能更好地描述从深水到近岸浅水处的波浪传播;并基于新方程建立了波浪数值模型,通过模拟波浪从浅水到深水的传播变形来验证新方程的有效性.