Evaluation of Diffraction Predictability in Two Phase Averaged Wave Models

Two different methods for incorporating diffraction effect into wave action balance equation based coastal spectral wave models, WABED and SWAN, are discussed and evaluated with respect to their formulations, numerical implementations, and modeling capabilities. Both models were run to simulate the wave transformation through a gap between two infinitely long breakwaters and that across an elliptical shoal observed in laboratory studies, with the emphasis laid on the diffraction induced by either obstacles or wave amplitude variations. Calculations of WABED were compared with Som-merfeld's analytical solutions, experimental observations and SWAN simulations. It is shown that both methods can predict reasonably wave difiraction for the two cases studied herein, and a fairly better performance is provided by WABED for stronger difiraction case.     

SWAN近岸海浪模式在辽东湾的应用

介绍了第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN,并使用SWAN对辽东湾海浪进行了模拟。辽东湾平缓的淤泥质海岸为研究海浪底摩擦耗散提供了理想的条件。与实测数据对比分析表明,SWAN模式能够较好的模拟辽东湾近岸水域海浪。在8月南风过程中,底摩擦耗散起作用的范围主要集中于辽东湾北部10m等深线以浅水深变化平缓的地区。耗散强度随水深变浅而逐渐增强。     

基于SWAN模式的南海台风浪推算的影响因素分析

基于南海实际地形和真实的台风过程,对影响SWAN模式在南海台风浪推算中的准确性的因素进行了较系统的研究。首先对不同的模型风场进行了对比分析,结果表明一个准确的风场是正确推算台风浪的关键。同时对SWAN模式中的白冠耗散作用、风能输入与白冠耗散不同的组合方式和折射项作用等因素对台风浪推算的影响进行分析,并对模式中的各影响因素给出了合理建议。使得SWAN模式在南海台风浪推算中具有更好的适用性。     

应用SWAN模型分析航道对波浪传播的影响

应用SWAN模型,采用多向不规则波计算了秦皇岛港航道改造工程前后4个具有代表性波向的波浪场,分析了航道对工程区4个不同方向波浪传播的影响并得到了航道沿程的波高分布.改造后的秦皇岛港航道呈折线型,长为24.4 km,相应的计算区域较大,使Boussinesq模型因网格过多而难以进行计算,而缓坡方程模型在处理多向不规则波时计算过于繁琐,SWAN模型在大区域、多向不规则波情况下能够较好地解决计算问题.运用该模型计算的结果表明,秦皇岛港航道改造工程后距航道较近区域的波态发生明显的变化,但工程海区的波浪整体传播规律没有发生大的改变.     

SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪模拟研究

基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。     

利用SWAN波浪模式研究北部湾海域台风浪场的波浪方向谱特征

以高精度再分析风场为驱动,利用SWAN模式模拟了台风“达维”Damrey（2005）经过北部湾海域时的波浪场。通过与实测的风和波浪实测对比发现,波浪后报结果与实测结果符合较好。文章给出了台风浪期间波高、周期、波长和波向等要素的分布特征,讨论了以台风眼为中心不同海域的波浪方向谱特征。本文最后分析了台风期间实测波浪能谱的变化特征。     

Simulating typhoon waves by SWAN wave model in coastal waters of Taiwan

The SWAN wave model is typically designed for wave simulations in the near-shore region and thus is selected for evaluating its applicability on typhoon waves in the coastal waters around Taiwan Island. Numerical calculations on processes of wave heights and periods during the passages of four representative typhoons are compared with measured data from field wave stations on both east and west coasts. The results have shown that waves due to typhoons of paths 2, 3 and 4 can be reasonably simulated on east coastal waters. However, discrepancies increase for the simulated results on west coastal waters because the island's central mountains partly damage the cyclonic structures of the passing-over typhoons. It is also found that the included nested grid scheme in SWAN could improve the accuracy of simulations in coastal waters to facilitate further engineering practices.     

1105号台风“米雷”台风浪模拟研究

以CCMP(Cross-Calibrated,Multi-Platform)风场驱动目前国际先进的第三代近岸海浪模式SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore),对1105号台风“米雷”造成的台风浪进行数值模拟,基于浮标观测资料,验证了模拟数据的有效性,并对台风浪场的分布特征进行分析.结果表明:(1)以CCMP风场驱动SWAN模式,可以较好地模拟“米雷”所形成的台风浪场;(2)模拟的有效波高(SWH——Significant Wave Height)与浮标观测SWH在波高变化的走势上具有很好的一致性,模拟数据的走势则较为平缓,观测数据跳跃较为明显,模拟的SWH具有较高精度,仅在数值上略低于观测SWH; (3) SWAN模式对“米雷”所形成的台风近中心大浪区、台风眼、台风尾迹等方面进行了较好地刻画.     

Wave dissipation by vegetation with layer schematization in SWAN

The energy of waves propagating through vegetation is dissipated due to the work done by the waves on the vegetation. Dalrymple et al. (1984) estimated wave dissipation by integrating the force on a cylinder over its vertical extent. This was extended by Mendez and Losada (2004) to include varying depths and the effects of wave damping due to vegetation and wave breaking for narrow-banded random waves. This paper describes the wave dissipation over a vegetation field by the implementation of the Mendez and Losada formulation in a full spectrum model SWAN, with an extension to include a vertical layer schematization for the vegetation. The present model is validated with the original equation and results from Mendez and Losada (2004). The sensitivity of the model to the shape of the frequency spectrum, directional spreading and layer schematization are investigated. The model is then applied to field measurements by using a vegetation factor. This model has the ability to calculate two-dimensional wave dissipation over a vegetation field including some important aspects such as breaking and diffraction as used in SWAN model.     

西北太平洋夏季海浪数值模拟研究

为了解第三代海浪模式SWAN在西北太平洋海浪模拟效果,利用2013年7月期间Jason-2卫星高度计观测资料,通过计算模拟值和观测值的绝对误差、均方根误差和进行逐日统计、分级统计、一次台风过程的统计,对FNL风场资料驱动SWAN模式的西北太平洋海浪数值模拟有效波高进行了检验。检验结果表明,模式对较小波高模拟效果较好,模拟波高与实测值误差在可接受的范围之内,可满足业务化预报的要求,但对较大波高的模拟存在一定的误差,且驱动风场的精细化水平直接影响模拟效果。     

近岸波浪折射-绕射-破波耗散联合模式的有限元数值研究

建立了近岸波浪折射-绕射-破波耗散的有限元数值模式。采用的有限元方法为改进的混合元法,其中外域开边界条件得到改进,内域有限元为伽廖金有限元。用理论解检验了所建立的数值模式,并将该模式应用到一个模型港湾。     

SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响

本文以荷兰哈灵水道海域为实验区域,通过敏感性实验,研究了在14 m/s、31.5 m/s和50 m/s（分别代表一般大风、强热带风暴和强台风的极端条件）定常风速下SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响程度。结果表明,对于近岸浅水区域（水深小于20 m）,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响较小,而且当风速增加到一定程度后,波浪破碎成为影响波高值的主要因素;对于深水区域（水深大于30 m）,一般大风条件下风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响仍然较小,随着风速的继续增大,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高的影响逐渐显著。对于平均周期,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择和风速的改变对其影响均较小,而由水深变浅导致的波浪破碎对其影响较为显著。根据敏感性实验结果,本文对SWAN模型中风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择做出如下建议:计算近岸浅水区域风浪场或深水区域一般大风条件风浪场时,其风拖曳力系数可以直接采用模型默认选项;而对于深水区域更大风速条件,可首先采用模型默认选项试算,然后结合当地海域实测波浪资料进行修正。     

运用SWAN数值模拟对渤海波浪极值参数的研究(英文)

本文以高分辨率后报风场资料为输入,采用SWAN波浪模式,模拟了渤海海域1985年至2004年共20年间的波浪场。通过有效波高数据的比较,可看出波浪数值结果与实测资料符合较好,可以用数值结果分析渤海海域的波浪特征。利用计算的年极值波要素,本文给出并分析了渤海海域不同重现期下的极值参数分布情况。     

基于MPI的LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式并行算法研究

在LAGFD-WAM海浪串行数值模式基础上,利用MPI信息传递机制实现其并行化。通过对模拟区域合理划分,对数据采取分块加载,实现了各个节点的负载平衡;通过对算法的改进实现了粗粒度计算,大幅度减少了通信量,从而提高了程序的执行效率。对串行计算和并行计算的效率比较表明,本文建立的方法能够得到较高的加速比。对全球海浪模式,加速比和CPU数目大致呈线性关系。对高分辨率的区域海浪模式,在128 CPU条件下加速比可以达到91.9。     

Wave prediction in a port using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model

A wave forecasting system using FUNWAVE-TVD which is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations by Chen(2006) was developed to provide an accurate wave prediction in the Port of Busan, South Korea. This system is linked to the Korea Operational Oceanographic System(KOOS) developed by Park et al.(2015). The computational domain covers a region of 9.6 km×7.0 km with a grid size of 2 m in both directions, which is sufficient to resolve short waves and dominant sea states. The total number of grid points exceeds 16 millions,making the model computational expensive. To provide real-time forecasting, an interpolation method, which is based on pre-calculated results of FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN forecasting results at the FUNWAVE-TVD offshore boundary, was used. A total of 45 cases were pre-calculated, which took 71 days on 924 computational cores of a Linux cluster system. Wind wave generation and propagation from the deep water were computed using the SWAN in KOOS. SWAN results provided a boundary condition for the FUNWAVE-TVD forecasting system. To verify the model, wave observations were conducted at three locations inside the port in a time period of more than 7 months. A model/model comparison between FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN was also carried out. It is found that, FUNWAVE-TVD improves the forecasting results significantly compared to SWAN which underestimates wave heights in sheltered areas due to incorrect physical mechanism of wave diffraction, as well as large wave heights caused by wave reflections inside the port.     

两种网格下的SWAN模式对黄渤海海浪模拟比较

采用NCEP再分析风场作为驱动海浪模式的强迫场,在考虑相同物理过程和分辨率基础上,SWAN海浪模式分别采用矩形网格和非结构三角网格对2000年12月黄渤海海域波浪场进行模拟,并将模拟的有效波高与海洋浮标观测数据作对比分析,结果表明,SWAN模式运用两种网格均能够取得良好的模拟结果,相对矩形网格,非结构三角网格模拟有效波...     

风场对SWAN模式在台湾海峡后报结果的影响

本文利用SWAN模式模拟分析了CCMP和DASCAT两种常用风场数据在台湾海峡海面的浪场结果。东北季风期3个月的浪场模拟结果与浮标实测波高时序数据相比,偏差均值不大于0.33 m,偏差均方根不大于0.59 m。一般在浮标波高大于3.5 m和小于1.0 m时,偏差偏大。6 h分辨率的风场数据相较于24 h分辨率风场数据对应的模拟结果更接近于浮标实测结果。在6 h和24 h分辨率的CCMP风场数据和24 h分辨率的DASCAT风场数据的模拟结果中,两两结果间的空间相关系数均不低于0.90,偏差均值不大于0.32 m,偏差均方根不大于0.4 m。     

SWAN模型模拟风浪场侧边界失真范围研究

鉴于SWAN模型存在着不能有效地模拟固壁边界附近风浪场的缺点,即在边界附近所模拟的波要素存在失真的现象,研究了在不同水深、风速和风向情况下模型侧边界附近波要素的失真范围,并对计算结果进行了详细的分析。结果表明水深、风速和风向对于侧边界附近波要素的失真范围具有不同的影响,即在风速一定的情况下,失真范围随着水深的增大而增大;水深一定的情况下,失真范围随着风速的增大而减小、随着风向的增大而增大。在利用SWAN模型模拟计算近岸或内陆湖泊风浪场时,必须采取适当的措施以减少实际计算域侧边界附近计算结果的失真范围。     

Modelling the wave-current interactions in an offshore basin using the SWAN model

The theoretical background of the wave-current interactions, including the transformation of the wave spectrum and breaking waves due to currents, are first presented in this work. In the next part of the work, experimental data resulted from studies performed in an offshore wave basin of the Danish Hydraulic Institute concerning the wave-current interactions were presented in parallel with some wave model simulations performed in similar conditions. SWAN, which is presently the state-of-the-art spectral model for the wave transformations, was adopted for performing numerical simulations. In general, a good agreement was encountered between the experimental data and the simulation results.     

珠江口附近海域波浪场的数值计算与特征分析

本文以WRF模式输出结果作为风场驱动条件,采用SWAN和WAVEWATCHIII相嵌套的方法,对珠江口附近海域进行20年(1991-2010年)的波浪场数值计算。根据计算结果,分析了珠江口海域波高和周期的空间、时间变化特征。结果显示:珠江入海口及近岸Hs较小,外海Hs较大,大部分海域年均Hs在0.4m以上;珠江口附近海域和近海地区年均Te偏小,在2s^3s之间,外海最大可达5s。珠江海域有效波高(Hs)的季节分布呈现出春夏季较小,秋冬季较大的特点。从概率学角度分别统计20年中前5%和10%的Hs及Te,可知:珠江口近海区域Hs,5%在1~2m,大万山群岛处可达Hs,5%2m;在珠江口附近Hs,10%为1.5m,万山海域Hs,10%在2.5m以上;计算海域Te,5%和Te,10%多在4s以上。