Research on Measurement of Bed Shear Stress Under Wave?Current Interaction

The movement of sediment in estuary and on coast is directly restricted by the bed shear stress. Therefore, the research on the basic problem of sediment movement by the bed shear stress is an important way to research the theory of sediment movement. However, there is not a measuring and computing method to measure the bed shear stress under a complicated dynamic effect like wave and current. This paper describes the measurement and test research on the bed shear stress in a long launder of direct current by the new instrument named thermal shearometer based on micro-nanotechnology. As shown by the research results, the thermal shearometer has a high response frequency and strong stability. The measured results can reflect the basic change of the bed shear stress under wave and wave?current effect, and confirm that the method of measuring bed shear stress under wave?current effect with thermal shearometer is feasible. Meanwhile, a preliminary method to compute the shear stress compounded by wave?current is put forward according to the tested and measured results, and then a reference for further study on the basic theory of sediment movement under a complicated dynamic effect is provided.     

Numerical Simulation of Local Scour Around A Large Circular Cylinder Under Wave Action

A horizontal two- dimensional numerical model is developed for estimation of sediment transport and sea bed change around a large circular cylinder under wave action. The wave model is based on an elliptic mild slope equation. The wave-induced current by the gradient of radiation stress is considered and a depth integrated shallow water equation is applied to the calculation of the current. The mass transport velocity and the bed shear stress due to streaming are considered, which are important factors affecting the sediment transport around a structure due to waves, especially in reflective areas. Wave-current interaction is taken into account in the model for computing the bed shear stress. The model is implemented by a finite element method. The results of this model are compared with those from other methods and agree well with experimental data.     

Simulation of three-dimensional cohesive sediment transport in Hangzhou Bay, China

Sediment transport in the Hangzhou Bay is extremely complicated due to its bathymetry and hydrodynamic conditions. The ECOMSED model is employed to simulate three-dimensional (3-D) cohesive sediment transport in Hangzhou Bay. Dynamical factors such as Coriolis force, tides, salinity, river discharges, and waves are considered in the model. The wave parameters, including the significant wave height, period, and direction, are calculated with the SWAN model. The Grant-Madsen model is introduced for the bed shear stress due to the combined effect of waves and currents. The formulation of bed shear stress used to calculate the sink/source terms is modified based on previous research that sufficiently validated the formulation with measurement data. The integrated model of the above-mentioned models is applied to simulate sediment transport in Hangzhou Bay. The results of the simulation agree well with field observations concerning the distribution of suspended sediment, indicating that the sediments are remarkably suspended in Hangzhou Bay under the action of waves and currents.     

植被对波浪作用下床面切应力影响的数值模拟分析

本文基于OpenFOAM建立三维波浪数值水槽,模拟计算植被水域波浪作用下的床面切应力,分析了入射波高、植被密度、植被淹没高度、水流对植被水域波浪作用下床面切应力的影响。结果表明：纯波时,由于植被的阻水作用,植被水域床面切应力沿程衰减,其衰减程度与入射波高、植被密度及植被淹没高度呈现正相关;与纯波时相比,在波浪和同向流共同作用下正向床面切应力幅值增大,负向床面切应力幅值减小;弱水流对植被水域床面切应力的大小及分布无明显影响;强水流时,床面切应力在植被水域先增大后逐渐减小并在植被水域后显著降低。     

The intertidal erosion rate of cohesive sediment: a case study from Long Island Sound

Over the past decades, many attempts have been made to generate useful bottom erosion models for the study of cohesive sediment movement. This study addresses some of the key questions involved in determining the functional relationship between erosion rate and bottom shear stress. Current, wave, and turbidity data were collected from a bottom mounted instrument array in a moderately energetic estuarine environment. The bottom shear stress was calculated from a wave–current interaction model. The erosion rate was derived from the observed sediment concentration using a vertical mixing model. Examination of the relationship between erosion rate and bottom stress showed that the erosion rate varied at intertidal frequency. When averaged over the tidal fluctuation, the erosion rate remained approximately constant at low stress, but increased sharply when the shear stress rose above a critical value. This suggests two-stage erosion. The bed has a layered structure, in which a thin layer of loose, high water content material overlies a more consolidated bed. The top layer of high water content material (fluff) was easily disturbed and re-suspended by tidal currents, but the consolidated bottom layer was eroded only under conditions of high shear stress.     

波、流共同作用下的泥沙起动

对波、流共存时的床面剪切力及摩阻系数等作了探讨,根据泥沙起动试验,建立了泥沙起动Shields曲线,导出了波、流共同作用下层流和紊流时的泥沙起动公式和起动波高、起动水深.     

动、定砂床底部剪切力对比试验研究

在河口海岸工程中,常常会面临岸滩冲蚀、岸线演变、航道淤积、建筑物底部淘刷等涉及泥沙起动和输运的问题,而水流对底床的剪切力是研究泥沙起动与输运的重要参数。本文利用自行设计的底床剪切力测量装置,在不同流速的水流中,分别在固定砂床(定床)和可移动砂床(动床)上进行了底部剪切力的直接测量;同时,根据试验中声学多普勒流速仪(ADV)测得的流速信息,采用湍流动能法对底床剪切力进行了估算。结果显示:当比例系数取值0.19时,估算出的底床剪切力与测量值吻合较好。对测量结果进行分析后发现,流速较小、砂粒未起动时,动、定砂床上的底部剪切力大致相同;在有砂粒起动的情况下,动床上的底部剪切力比定床上的大,相对差值最大约20%。因此当涉及底床剪切力的问题时,需要先确认床面形式,然后再进行分析研究。     

黄河口水下三角洲海底冲蚀沟发育的动力机制探讨

根据老黄河口外水下三角洲海底冲蚀沟的地貌特征,用动力学方法分析了其形成发育机制.结果表明,波浪近底流是冲蚀沟形成发育的主导因素.冲蚀沟内的湍流及其次生的横向环流构成了复杂的流场,由此产生的边界切应力对冲蚀沟的侵蚀及沉积物的悬浮、扩散起重要作用.冲蚀沟的断面形态与流场结构密切相关.     

波流作用下海底边界层沉积物再悬浮与影响因素研究

海底沉积物再悬浮及其分布取决于海洋水动力、沉积物类型与床面形态之间复杂的相互作用,准确地理解和确定沉积物再悬浮过程对于沉积物输运的研究具有重要的意义。本文在祥云湾海洋牧场典型海域开展现场原位观测,获取研究区波浪、海流及悬浮沉积物浓度数据;分析了波、流作用下海底边界层悬浮沉积物垂向分布特征,并探究了海洋水动力和床面形态对悬浮沉积物垂向分布的影响。结果表明,研究区波流之间的相互作用不显著,沉积物再悬浮受控于风暴浪作用,风暴浪作用下底床切应力可以达到沉积物临界切应力的10～15倍,沉积物的再悬浮滞后于风暴浪作用2～3 h。在波浪荷载微小的情况下,悬浮沉积物垂向分布呈现"I"型,波浪荷载下,悬浮沉积物垂向分布呈现幂指函数分布,表现为"L"型;床面形态随波、流作用而演化,影响沉积物的再悬浮过程,u_(?w)/u_(?c)=1.00可作为波浪和海流起主导控制作用的床面形态的判别依据,纯波浪荷载作用下的u_(?w)/u_(?c)显著高于波浪主控作用下,但二者之间的界线随着波浪荷载的增加而升高。     

潮流波浪联合输沙及海床冲淤演变的理论体系与其数学模拟

根据近岸带及河口区潮流、波浪、湍流各自物理尺度的不同,从Ｎａｖｉｅｒ－Ｓｔｏｋｅｓ方程和质量传输方程出发,利用Ｒｅｙｎｏｌｄｓ分解的方法,建立了模拟波浪 流联合输沙及海床冲淤演变的理论体系,给出了潮流作用下近岸波浪传播方程、波浪作用下潮流运动方程并通过利用波流合成底部切应力、底层湍流脉动随机特性,得出了波流联合作用下不平衡沙计算中泥沙起悬与沉降量的确定方法。本文模型应用于“广西合浦围垦工程潮流波浪     

Numerical Simulation of Wave Scour Around A Large-Scale Circular Cylinder

A numerical model is developed for estimation of local scour around a large circular cylinder under vvave action. The model includes wave diffraction around structures, bed shear stress calculation inside the vvave boundary layer and topo-graphical change model. The vvave model is based on the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth. The vvave boundary layer is calculaled by solving the integrated momentum equation over the boundary layer. The bed shear stress due to streaming, an important factor affecting the sediment transport around a large-scale cylinder, is calculated. The Lagrangian drift velocity is included in calculation of the suspended sediment transport rates. The model is implemented by a finite element method and the results from the present model, which agree well with experimental data, are com-pared vvith those from other methods.     

Wave-induced Maintenance of Suspended Sediment Concentration during Slack in a Tidal Channel on a Sheltered Macro-tidal Flat,Gangwha Island,Korea

A field campaign was conducted to better understand the influence of wave action, in terms of turbulence and bed shear stress, on sediment resuspension and transport processes on a protected tidal flat. An H-frame was deployed in a tidal channel south of Gangwha Island for 6 tidal cycles during November 2006 with instrumentation including an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter, an Acoustic Backscatter System, and an Optical Backscatter Sensor. During calm conditions, the current-induced shear was dominant and responsible for suspending sediments during the accelerating phases of flood and ebb. During the high-tide slack, both bed shear stress and suspended sediment concentration were reduced. The sediment flux was directed landward due to the scour-lag effect over a tidal cycle. On the other hand, when waves were stronger, the wave-induced turbulence appeared to keep sediments in suspension even during the high-tide slack, while the current-induced shear remained dominant during the accelerating phases of flood and ebb. The sediment flux under strong waves was directed offshore due to the sustained high suspended sediment concentration during the high-tide slack. Although strong waves can induce offshore sediment flux, infrequent events with strong waves are unlikely to alter the long-term accretion of the protected southern Gangwha tidal flats.     

基于潮间带现场数据的底部切应力算法对比

底部切应力作为水动力和泥沙输移模型中的关键参数,对底床泥沙起动、侵蚀淤积速率的研究十分重要.目前基于现场实测流速数据计算底部切应力的理论方法有6种:LP-mean法、LP-max法、TKE法、TKE W法、RS法和ID法,这些方法都有其特定的适用条件.河口海岸浅水区域水流和波浪作用复杂,遴选合适的方法计算底部切应力非常...     

台风作用下长江口北槽挟沙能力研究

台风作用下水体的挟沙能力研究对深入认识台风暴潮作用下泥沙运动规律、滩槽演变特征以及提升数学模型和物理模型技术等方面具有重要意义。文中从台风波能对泥沙的悬浮作用入手,建立了台风浪作用下的挟沙能力公式;依据能量叠加原理,完善了传统的河口海岸挟沙能力公式（窦国仁挟沙能力公式）,使公式能够同时概括潮流、波浪和台风浪作用下的泥沙运动特征,并应用近年来长江口北槽实测的台风期近底水沙资料对公式进行了率定验证,在此基础上分析了台风期北槽近底含沙量变化特征。     

Experimental Study on the Bed Shear Stress Under Breaking Waves

The object of present study is to investigate the bed shear stress on a slope under regular breaking waves by a novel instrument named Micro-Electro-Mechanical System (MEMS) flexible hot-film shear stress sensor. The sensors were calibrated before application, and then a wave flume experiment was conducted to study the bed shear stress for the case of regular waves spilling and plunging on a 1:15 smooth PVC slope. The experiment shows that the sensor is feasible for the measurement of the bed shear stress under breaking waves. For regular incident waves, the bed shear stress is mainly periodic in both outside and inside the breaking point. The fluctuations of the bed shear stress increase significantly after waves breaking due to the turbulence and vortexes generated by breaking waves. For plunging breaker, the extreme value of the mean maximum bed shear stress appears after the plunging point, and the more violent the wave breaks, the more dramatic increase of the maximum bed shear stress will occur. For spilling breaker, the increase of the maximum bed shear stress along the slope is gradual compared with the plunging breaker. At last, an empirical equation about the relationship between the maximum bed shear stress and the surf similarity parameter is given, which can be used to estimate the maximum bed shear stress under breaking waves in practice.     

Contribution of waves and currents to sediment resuspension in the Yellow River Delta

The objective of this study was to investigate that the effects of different hydrodynamic conditions on sediment resuspension on a tidal mudflat in the Yellow River Estuary. A field experiment was conducted on an intertidal flat of the Yellow River Delta, China. The sediment resuspension concentrations and hydrodynamic conditions were obtained in the field from September 2–7, 2013. The resuspended sediment concentrations induced by wave loading were compared with those induced by coupled wave–current actions in Yellow River Delta. The results were as follows: (1) when the wave height was higher than 10?cm and the shear stress induced by the waves was greater than the critical stress of the seabed sediments, the surface seabed was eroded and sediment was resuspended. In addition, 60% of the significant wave heights were larger than 10?cm on the intertidal flat of the Yellow River Delta. (2) The contribution of waves to sediment resuspension was greater than 30% when the significant wave height is higher than 10?cm, and the average contribution of waves to sediment resuspension was 51%. The mechanism of wave-induced sediment resuspension and processes of sediment resuspension were described in this paper.     

风暴过程中潮滩悬沙浓度和悬沙输运的变化及其动力机制——以长江三角洲南汇潮滩为例

悬沙浓度是淤泥质海岸重要的环境指标。为探讨潮滩悬沙浓度和悬沙输运对风暴事件的响应过程及其动力机制,于2014年9月"凤凰"台风过境前、中、后在长江三角洲南汇潮滩进行了现场观测,获得同步高分辨率的水深、波高、近底流速和浊度剖面时间序列(9个潮周期)。结果表明,风暴中平均和最大波高、波-流联合底床剪切应力、悬沙浓度和悬沙输运率可比平静天气高数倍;风暴期间高潮位低流速阶段悬沙沉降导致近底发育数十厘米厚的浮泥层(悬沙浓度大于10 g/L)。研究认为风暴事件中淤泥质海岸悬沙浓度和悬沙输运的剧烈变化其根本动力机制是风暴把巨大能量传递给近岸水体,进而显著增大波-流联合底床剪切应力,导致细颗粒泥沙再悬浮。     

人工岬角和海滩养护下泥沙输运与海床演变

实施人工岬角和海滩养护的软硬措施相结合的方法是探索解决海滩侵蚀问题的新举措之一。基于验证良好的水动力模型建立了泥沙输运和海床演变模型,对秦皇岛市新开河口至南山岸线海滩经整治修复工程实施后的泥沙输运和海床演变规律进行模拟分析。结果表明:大潮与常浪耦合作用下,研究区域周围海域流速整体上落急时刻大于涨急时刻,沙坝掩护水域的流速较弱,波浪在沙坝处增强并在沙坝后破碎并减弱;在沙坝处出现高悬沙浓度区域,悬沙浓度分布主要由底床切应力控制,部分受水动力影响。大潮与强浪耦合作用下,在沙坝处出现远大于常浪时的增强水流(波生流),方向与强浪向一致,波浪在沙坝处已破碎且沙坝对强浪的削减效率大于常浪;与常浪作用下不同,悬沙浓度场在强浪作用下沙坝处没有出现明显的高浓度区域。波流耦合作用下,人工岬角单独存在时护岸效果有限,工程实施后在人工岬角和人工沙坝的配合下,沙坝处侵蚀而沙坝后侧掩护区域淤积,沙坝起到了有效养护海滩的作用。     

Effective Nikuradse Roughness on the Mobile Plan Bed

Nikuradse roughness (ks) is very important in the sediment transport prediction because it is related to the evaluations of the velocity distribution, shear stress and erosion depth. Dimensionless Nikuradse roughness (ks/D, where D is the sediment diameter) is usually given 1–2.5 on the immobile plan bed or at low shear stress. But it behaves differently on the mobile plan bed at high shear stress with much sediment picked up to movement when the Shields parameter (Θ) is larger than 0.8–1.0. The effective Nikuradse roughness on the mobile plan bed was derived indirectly from the erosion depth correlated to the mobile plan bed thickness considering the mass conservation in the present study. The proposed erosion depth confirmed the relation to the Shields parameters with an extra factor consisting of suspended sediment and its damping to turbulence. The decrement of the erosion depth caused by the increment of the sediment diameter at large shear stress was obtained, which was usually absent in classical empirical formulas based on the bedload theory. Good agreement with experiments was achieved by the present prediction of the Nikuradse roughness, erosion depth and sediment transport rate. Discussion was mainly focused on the prediction improvement caused by considering the impact of suspended sediment and its damping to turbulence.     

Threshold of motion of coarse-grained sediment under waves in shallow water

This paper considers the threshold of motion of sediment in shallow coastal waters under breaking and non-breaking waves. A simple model, representing conditions at the fluid/sediment interface, is developed. The representation of a breaking wave is based on bore theory, and the shear stress at the bed is based on the friction formula of O'Connor and Yoo. A threshold formula is presented based on the use of energy dissipation. The threshold data is also related to the Shields threshold criterion.