A VOF-based numerical model for breaking waves in surf zone

This paper introduces a numerical model for studying the evolution of a periodic wave train, shoaling, and breaking in surf zone. The model can solve the Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations for a mean flow, and (he k-s equations for turbulence kinetic energy k and turbulence dissipation rate e. To track a free surface, the volume of fluid (VOF) function, satisfying the advection equation was introduced. In the numerical treatment, third-order upwind difference scheme was applied to the convection terms of the RANS equations in order to reduce the effect of numerical viscosity. The shoaling and breaking processes of a periodic wave train on gently sloping beaches were modeled. The computed wave heights of a sloping beach and the distribution of breaking wave pressure on a vertical wall were compared with laboratory data.     

Wave breaking on turbulent energy budget in the ocean surface mixed layer

As an important physical process at the air-sea interface, wave movement and breaking have a significant effect on the ocean surface mixed layer （OSML）. When breaking waves occur at the ocean surface, turbulent kinetic energy （TKE） is input downwards, and a sublayer is formed near the surface and turbulence vertical mixing is intensively enhanced. A one-dimensional ocean model including the Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure equations was employed in our research on variations in turbulent energy budget within OSML. The influence of wave breaking could be introduced into the model by modifying an existing surface boundary condition of the TKE equation and specifying its input. The vertical diffusion and dissipation of TKE were effectively enhanced in the sublayer when wave breaking was considered. Turbulent energy dissipated in the sublayer was about 92.0% of the total depth-integrated dissipated TKE, which is twice higher than that of non-wave breaking. The shear production of TKE decreased by 3.5% because the mean flow fields tended to be uniform due to wave-enhanced turbulent mixing. As a result, a new local equilibrium between diffusion and dissipation of TKE was reached in the wave-enhanced layer. Below the sublayer, the local equilibrium between shear production and dissipation of TKE agreed with the conclusion drawn from the classical law-of-the-wall （Craig and Banner, 1994）.     

Parameterized first-guess spectrum method for retrieving directional spectrum of swell-dominated waves and huge waves from SAR images

A method to retrieve ocean wave spectra from SAR images, named Parameterized First-guess Spectrum Method (PFSM), was proposed after interpretation of the theory to ocean wave imaging and analysis of the drawbacks of the retrieving model generally used. In this method, with additional information and satellite parameters, the separating wave-number is first calculated to determine the maximum wave-number beyond which the linear relation can be used. The separating wave-number can be calculated using the additional information on wind velocity and parameters of SAR satellite. And then the SAR spectrum can be divided into SAR spectrum of wind wave and of swell according to the result of separating wave-number. The portion of SAR spectrum generated by wind wave, is used to search for the most suitable parameters of ocean wind wave spectrum, including propagation direction of ocean wave, phase speed of dominating wave and the angle spreading coefficient. The swell spectrum is acquired by directly inversing the linear relation of ocean wave spectrum to SAR spectrum given the portion of SAR spectrum generated by swell. We used the proposed method to retrieve the ocean wave spectrum from ERS-SAR data from the South China Sea and compared the result with altimeter data. The agreement indicates that the PFSM is reliable.     

The Nonlinear Interaction Process in the wave Assimilation Model and Its Experiments

This paper presents a composite interaction formula based on the discrete-interaction operator of wave-wave nonlinear interaction for deriving its adjoint source function in the wave assimilation model.Assimilation experiments were performed using the significant wave heights observed by the TOPES/POSEIDON satellite,and the gradinet distribution in the physical space was also analyzed preliminarily.     

Depression and elevation internal solitary waves in a two-layer fluid and their forces on cylindrical piles

Both large amplitude depression and elevation internal solitary waves (ISWs) were observed on the continental shelf of the northwest South China Sea (SCS) during the Wenchang Internal Wave Experiment. In this study, we investigate the characteristics of depression and elevation ISWs based on comparisons between observational results and internal wave theories. It is suggested that the large amplitude depression wave is better represented by the extended Korteweg-de Vries (EKdV) theory than by the KdV model, whereas the large amplitude elevation wave is in better agreement with the KdV equation than with the EKdV theory. Wave-induced forces on a supposed small-diameter cylindrical pile by depression and elevation waves are also estimated using the internal wave theory and Morison formula. The wave-induced force by elevation ISWs is rarely reported in the literature. It is found that the force induced by the elevation wave differs significantly from that by the depression wave, and the elevation wave generally produces greater force on the pile in the lower water column than the depression wave. These results show that ISWs in the study area can present a serious threat to ocean engineering structures, and should not be ignored in the design of oil platforms and ocean operations.     

A MODIFIED HYBRID ELEMENT MODEL FOR COMBINED DIFFRACTION-REFRACTION-REFLECTION-DISSIPATION WAVES OVER LARGE REGIONS

A modified hybrid element method (MHEM) including diffraction, refraction, reflection and dissipa-tion effects is developed to model wave transformation over large complex bathymetry under practical bo-undary conditions. Adoption of a simple functional in the MHEM dispenses with the additional unknownsin simultaneous equations of the conventional hybrid element method (HEM). In this paper incompleteCholeski & conjugate gradients (ICCG) algorithm is used to save computer CPU operation time and storagespace; so calculation of wave information in large an area can be carried out on PC computers. Also, theMHEM grid can be controlled by computer using local wavelength. The validity and efficiency of MHEM areconfirmed by comparisons verifying that the MHEM can proviide numerical solutions with very good accuracy.     

NUMERICAL STUDY OF THE INFLUENCE OF WAVES AND TIDE-SURGE INTERACTION ON TIDE-SURGES IN THE BOHAI SEA

Abstract The author‘s combined numerical model consisting of a third generation shallow water wave model and a 3-D tide-surge model with wave-dependent surface wind stress were used to study the influence of waves on fide-surge motion. For the typical weather case, in this study, the magnitude and mechanism of the influence of waves on tide-surges in the Bohai Sea were revealed for the first time. The results showed that although consideration of the wave-dependent surface wind stresses raise slightly the traditional surface wind stress, due to the accumulated effects, the computed results are improved on the whole. Storm level maximum modulation can reach 0.4 m. The results computed by the combined model agreed well with the measured data.     

Influence of impulse waves generated by rocky landslides on the pressure exerted on bank slopes

Rocky landslides on river banks can result in the generation of ultra-high waves, which may destroy structures on the opposite bank. Existing methods to calculate the pressure on bank slopes under the effect of impulse waves generated by landslides are, however, few and of low precision. Therefore, in this study, a three-dimensional physical model test was conducted by taking into account factors such as landslide geometry parameters and the bank slope angle. The model test section was generalized on the basis of a certain section of the Three Gorges reservoir area as a prototype, after which the wave parameters and wave pressure acting on the bank slope were measured. Subsequently, the magnitude, acting point, and distribution of the pressure of the impulse waves generated by the rocky landslide upon the bank slope were determined. The distribution curve of the impact pressure was similar to that calculated using the СНиПⅡ57-75 formula, and the experimental pulsating pressure value was close to the value calculated using the Subgrade formula. Based on the test results, a power function of the relative pulsating pressure steepness with respect to the reciprocal of the wave steepness, relative water depth, and slope ratio was proposed. The acting point of the maximum pulsating pressure was found to be located near the still water level. Finally, an empirical formula for calculating the envelope of the maximum pulsating pressure distribution curve was proposed. These formulas can serve as a theoretical basis for the prediction of impulse wave pressure generated owing to landslides on bank slopes.     

Statistical distribution of nonlinear random water wave surface elevation

This study deals with the development of statistical modeling for water wave surface elevation by using a method that combines a dynamic solution with random process statistics. Ocean wave data taken from four NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) buoys moored in the northeast Pacific were used to validate the model. The results indicated that the nonlinear probability density distribution of ocean wave surface elevation derived from the model described the measurements much better than Gaussian distribution and Longuet-Higgins distribution.     

Improvement of pseudo-static method for slope stability analysis

traditional In this paper, two drawbacks pseudo-static method （vertical of the slice method） in the slope stability evaluation have been studied. First, the sliding mass is divided into vertical slices according to this method, which is irrational to some extent in the seismic design of slope. Second, only peak ground acceleration （PGA） is considered, and the effects of shaking frequency and duration on slope stability are neglected. And then, based on the theory of elastic wave and the summarized geological model, this paper put forwards an improved method of pseudo-method by using the theory of elastic wave and Hilbert-Huang transform. The improved pseudostatic method gives reasonable considerations to the time-frequency effects of seismic wave and its rationality has been verified by the shaking table test. This method can evaluate the safety of a slope, the happening time and the scale of landslides. At the same time, this method also can improve the high accuracy of the evaluation of the safety of the slope.     

The Characteristics of Storm Wave Behavior and Its Effect on Cage Culture Using the ADCIRC+SWAN Model in Houshui Bay,China

The current storm wave hazard assessment tends to rely on a statistical method using wave models and fewer historical data which do not consider the effects of tidal and storm surge.In this paper,the wave-current coupled model ADCIRC+SWAN was used to hindcast storm events in the last 30 years.We simulated storm wave on the basis of a large set of historical storms in the North-West Pacific Basin between 1985 and 2015 in Houshui Bay using the wave-current coupled model ADCIRC+SWAN to obtain the storm wave level maps.The results were used for the statistical analysis of the maximum significant wave heights in Houshui Bay and the behavior of wave associated with storm track.Comparisons made between observations and simulated results during typhoon Rammasun(2014)indicate agreement.In addition,results demonstrate that significant wave height in Houshui Bay is dominated by the storm wind velocity and the storm track.Two groups of synthetic storm tracks were designed to further investigate the worst case of typhoon scenarios.The storm wave analysis method developed for the Houshui Bay is significant in assisting government's decision-making in rational planning of deep sea net-cage culture.The method can be applied to other bays in the Hainan Island as well.     

Shear Wave Speed Dispersion Characteristics of Seafloor Sediments in the Northern South China Sea

To accurately characterize the shear wave speed dispersion of seafloor sediments in the northern South China Sea,five types of sediments including silty clay,clayey silt,sandy silt,silty sand,and clayey sand were selected,on which the measurements of the shear wave speed at 0.5-2.0 kHz and related physical properties were performed.Results reveal that the shear wave speed of sediments increases as the frequency increases,and the dispersion enhanced in the sediments in the order of silty clay,clayey silt,sandy silt,silty sand,and clayey sand,at a linear change rate of 0.727,0.787,3.32,4.893,and 6.967 m s?1 kHz?1,respectively.Through regression analysis,linear and logarithmic regression equations for the correlation between shear wave speed and frequency were established for each sediment type and the determination coefficients of regression equations indicate that the correlation is closer to a logarithmic relationship.The Grain-Shearing(GS)and Biot-Stoll models were used to calculate the shear wave speed dispersion of the five sediment types,and the comparison between theoretical prediction and measured results of shear wave speeds shows that the GS model can more accurately describe the shear wave speed dispersion characteristics of these sediments in the frequency band of 0.5-2.0 kHz.In the same band,the predictions obtained by using the Biot-Stoll model are significantly different from the measured data.     

Rogue waves during Typhoon Trami in the East China Sea

As concluded from physical theory and laboratory experiment, it is widely accepted that nonlinearities of sea state play an important role in the formation of rogue waves; however, the sea states and corresponding nonlinearities of real-world rogue wave events remain poorly understood. Three rogue waves were recorded by a directional buoy located in the East China Sea during Typhoon Trami in August 2013. This study used the WAVEWATCH Ⅲ model to simulate the sea state conditions pertaining to when and where those rogue waves were observed, based on which a comprehensive and full-scale analysis was performed. From the perspectives of wind and wave fields, wave system tracking, High-Order Spectral method simulation, and some characteristic sea state parameters, we concluded that the rogue waves occurred in sea states dominated by second-order nonlinearities. Moreover, third-order modulational instabilities were suppressed in these events because of the developed or fully developed sea state determined by the typhoon wave system. The method adopted in this study can provide comprehensive and full-scale analysis of rogue waves in the real world. The case studied in this paper is not considered unique, and rules could be found and confirmed in relation to other typhoon sea states through the application of our proposed method.     

Exopolysaccharide production by four cyanobacterial isolates and preliminary identification of these isolates

Four marine cyanobacterial isolates, named 104, 109, 113 and 115, from marine water off China＇s coast can release a large amount of exopolysaccharide （EPS） to medium. The effects of different components in medium on EPS production by the four isolates were investigated. Under the optimal condition, the EPS released by isolates 104,109, 113 and 115 reached 7.48 g L^-1, 8.33 g L^-1, 18.26 g L^-1, and 6.78 g L^-1 within 14 d,respectively. Based on the conventional identification methods for cyanobacteria,these isolates were assigned to genus Cyanothece.     

A temporal sliding procedure for ocean wave variational data assimilation and its application

For sequential performance of wave variational data assimilation, we proposed a temporal sliding method in which the temporal overlap is considered. The advantage of this method is that the initial wave spectrum of the optimization process is modified by the observations in latter and former times. This temporal sliding procedure is important for marginal region, such as the China seas, where the duration of assimilation effectiveness is 2-3 days. Experiments were performed in the whole course of Cyclone 9403 (Russ). Around the cyclone center, the maximum value of wave elements did not change much by assimilation, because the extreme value was determined by wind energy input that was not yet optimized. In the area outside the cyclone center, this modification is evident especially for wind wave growth.     

Probability Prediction Model for Landslide Occurrences in Xi’an,Shaanxi Province,China

Landslides are increasing since the 1980s in Xi’an, Shaanxi Province, China. This is due to the increase of the frequency and intensity of precipitation caused by complex geological structures, the presence of steep landforms, seasonal heavy rainfall, and the intensifcation of human activities. In this study, we propose a landslide prediction model based on the analysis of intraday rainfall （IR） and antecedent effective rainfall （AER）. Primarily, the number of days and degressive index of the antecedent effective rainfall which affected landslide occurrences in the areas around Qin Mountains, Li Mountains and Loess Tableland was established. Secondly, the antecedent effective rainfall and intraday rainfall were calculated from weather data which were used to construct critical thresholds for the 10%, 50% and 90% probabilities for future landslide occurrences in Qin Mountain, Li Mountain and Loess Tableland. Finally, the regions corresponding to different warning levels were identified based on the relationship between precipitation and the threshold, that is; “A” region is safe, “B” region is on watch alert, “C” region is on warning alert and “D” region is on severe warning alert. Using this model, a warning program is proposed which can predict rainfall-induced landslides by means of real-time rain gauge data and real-time geo-hazard alert and disaster response programs. Sixteen rain gauges were installed in the Xi’an region by keeping in accordance with the regional geology and landslide risks. Based on the data from gauges, this model accurately achieves the objectives of conducting real-time monitoring as well as providing early warnings of landslides in the Xi’an region.     

Evaluation of a regional climate model for atmospheric simulation over Arctic river basins

Evaluation on a regional climate model was made with five-month atmospheric simulations over the Arctic river basins. The simulations were performed with a modified mesoscale model, Polar MM5 coupled to the NCAR Land Surface Model （LSM） to illustrate the skill of the coupled model （Polar MM5＋LSM） in simulating atmospheric circulation over the Arctic river basins. Near-surface and upper-air observations were used to verify the simulations. Sensitivity studies between the Polar MM5 and Polar MM5＋LSM simulations revealed that the coupled model could improve the forecast skill for surface variables at some sites. In addition, the extended evaluations of the coupled model simulations on the North American Arctic domain during December 15, 2002 to May 15, 2003 were carried out. The time series plots and statistics of the observations and Polar MM5＋LSM simulations at six stations for near-surface and vertical profiles at 850 hPa and 500 hPa were analyzed. The model was found capable of reproducing the observed atmospheric behavior in both magnitude and variability, especially for temperature and near-surface wind direction.     

Numerical simulation of scatterometer assimilated wind and ocean wave in eastern China seas and adjacent waters

Using the latest version of Mesoscale Modeling System (MM5v3), we assimilated wind data from the scatterometer and built a model to assimilate the wind field over eastern China seas and adjacent waters and applied the wave model WAVEWATCH-Ⅲ to test the sea area with assimilative wind and blended wind of QSCAT and NCEP as driving forces. High precision and resolution numerical wave results were obtained. Analysis indicated that if we replace the model wind result with the blended wind, better sea surface wind results and wave results could be obtained.     

Comparison of retrieving methods of ocean wave periods from satellite altimeter with buoy measurements

For validating the results of retrieved mean wave period, four empirical algorithms established previously are introduced. Based on the data of over five years derived from TOPEX satellite altimeter for the entire East China Sea, ocean wave periods were calculated and statistical comparison among them was performed. The retrieved mean wave period obtained with our new distribution parameters showed better agreement with the wave period TB measured by buoy than that calculated by other three algorithms. The difference between the mean values of and that of TB is 0.16 s and the RMSE (root mean square error) of is the lowest value (0.48).     

Mechanical and numerical models for sea ice dynamics on small-meso scale

On small-meso scale, the sea ice dynamic characteristics are quite different from that on large scale. To model the sea ice dynamics on small-meso scale, a new elastic-viscous-plastic （EVP） constitutive model and a hybrid Lagrangian- Eulerian （HLE） numerical method are developed based on continuum theory. While a modified discrete element model （DEM） is introduced to model the ice cover at discrete state. With the EVP constitutive model, the numerical simulation for ice ridging in an idealized rectangular basin is carried out and the results are comparable with the analytical solution of jam theory. Adopting the HLE numerical model, the sea ice dynamic process is simulated in a vortex wind field. The furthering application of DEM is discussed in details for modeling the discrete distribution of sea ice. With this study, the mechanical and numerical models for sea ice dynamics can be improved with high precision and computational efficiency.