基于间断有限元方法的三维近岸波生流数值模型建立

在三维水动力模型中引入三维辐射应力,水滚影响以及波浪附加紊动效应,并基于间断有限元方法建立了非结构化网格三维波生流数值模型。采用实验室内斜坡地形条件下正向入射波在破波带附近产生的近底回流和斜向入射波产生的沿岸流对模型进行了验证。结果表明,计算值与实测值吻合程度较好,该模型可以较好地描述三维近岸波生流。     

结合椭圆型缓坡方程模拟近岸波流场

波浪向近岸传播的过程中,由波浪破碎效应所产生的近岸波流场是近岸海域关键的水动力学因素之一.结合近岸波浪场的椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波浪场及由斜向入射波浪破碎后所形成的近岸波流场进行了数值模拟.计算中考虑到波浪向近岸传播中由于波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应使局部复杂区域波向不易确定,采用结合椭圆型缓坡方程所给出的波浪辐射应力公式来计算波浪产生的辐射应力,在此基础上耦合椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波流场进行数值模拟,从而使模型综合考虑了波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应且避免了对波向角的直接求解,可以应用于相对较复杂区域的近岸波流场模拟.     

Numerical Simulation of Spatial Lag Between Wave Breaking Point and Location of Maximum Wave-Induced Current

A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point.The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direction.The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress.An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy.The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation.Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach are used to evaluate the model's performance.The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward.     

波生流对海岸污染物输移的影响

通过物理模型实验对海岸波浪作用下污染物运动特性进行了分析,重点分析了质量输移流、沿岸流、沿岸流不稳定运动及破波带内旋涡运动等海岸水动力因素的影响.实验中坡度分别取为1:100和1:40,实验中采用CCD摄像机记录墨水的运动轨迹,同步测量流体质点速度以及波面升高.实验表明,在破碎带外污染物主要受波浪非线性引起的质量输移流的影响;在破碎带内主要受沿岸流的影响,同时还受沿岸流不稳定运动及大尺度旋涡运动的影响.     

An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups

In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves.     

Effects of cross-shore boundary condition errors in nearshore circulation modeling

The paper analyzes the effect which prescribed errors in the cross-shore boundary conditions for a computational domain along a beach have on the flow field predicted inside the domain. This problem is relevant because errors in boundary conditions are unavoidable when modeling limited domains of a nearshore region. For simplicity, we consider a longshore uniform plane beach with monochromatic, obliquely incident waves, and assume depth uniform currents. It is then studied analytically and numerically how small perturbations of the boundary conditions along both upstream and downstream cross-shore boundaries spread inside the computational domain. It is found that the errors at the upstream cross-shore boundary tend to spread over a long distance downstream of the boundary, while the influence of the errors in the downstream boundary condition is limited to the adjacent upstream area of the computational domain. Both the numerical and analytical solutions show that the errors introduced at the upstream boundary decay exponentially in the surf zone at a rate proportional to the bottom friction. A simple formula is developed to estimate the influence distance of the upstream errors. If we consider the mismatch in the volume flux at the upstream boundary, the error merely redistributes in the cross-shore direction to conserve volume. In the case of excessive flux or velocity specified at the cross-shore boundaries, a circulation cell tends to appear in the offshore region where the errors caused by the boundary mismatch increase with the cross-shore width of the model domain.     

Numerical Simulation of the Three-Dimensional Wave-Induced Currents on Unstructured Grid

By coupling the three-dimensional hydrodynamic model with the wave model, numerical simulations of the three-dimensional wave-induced current are carried out in this study. The wave model is based on the numerical solution of the modified wave action equation and eikonal equation, which can describe the wave refraction and diffraction. The hydrodynamic model is driven by the wave-induced radiation stresses and affected by the wave turbulence. The numerical implementation of the module has used the finite-volume schemes on unstructured grid, which provides great flexibility for modeling the waves and currents in the complex actual nearshore, and ensures the conservation of energy propagation. The applicability of the proposed model is evaluated in calculating the cases of wave set-up, longshore currents, undertow on a sloping beach, rip currents and meandering longshore currents on a tri-cuspate beach. The results indicate that it is necessary to introduce the depth-dependent radiation stresses into the numerical simulation of wave-induced currents, and comparisons show that the present model makes better prediction on the wave procedure as well as both horizontal and vertical structures in the wave-induced current field.     

Three-dimensional modeling of tidal circulation and mixing over the Java Sea

A combination of a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model and in-situ measurements provides the structures of barotropic tides, tidal circulation and their relationship with turbulent mixing in the Java Sea, which allow us to understand the impact of the tides on material distribution. The model retains high horizontal and vertical resolutions and is forced by the boundary conditions taken from a global model. The measurements are composed of the sea level at coastal stations and currents at moorings embedded in Seawatch buoys, in addition to hydrographic data. The simulated tidal elevations are in good agreement with the data for the K₁ and M₂ constituents. The K₁ tide clearly shows the lowest mode resonance in the Java Sea with intensification around the nodal point in the central region. The M₂ tide is secondary and propagates westward from the eastern open boundary, along with a counterclockwise amphidromic point in the western part. The K₁ tide produces a major component of tidal energy, which flows westward and dissipates through the node region near the Karimata Strait. Meanwhile, the M₂ tide dissipates in the entire Java Sea. However, the residual currents are mainly induced by the M₂ tide, which flows westward following the M₂ tidal wave propagation. The tidal mixing is mainly caused by K₁ tide which peaks at the central region and is consistent with the uniform temperature and salinity along the vertical dimension. This mixing is expected to play an important role in the vertical exchange of nutrients and control of biological productivity.     

2001年春季东中国海三维环流的数值模拟

本文基于2001年4月东中国海区域实测水文资料,应用三维有限元模式FEOM(Finite Element Ocean Model)对东中国海三维环流系统进行了数值计算分析。模式水平网格系统采用单节点线性三角形网格,垂向使用z坐标,观测温、盐度场通过客观分析法插值得到初始条件,分别进行了诊断计算和强诊断计算,计算结果表明:(1)改进逆方法可以很好地反演研究区域流函数和流量分布,为数值模拟提供优质可靠的开边界条件。(2)有限元模式在网格自由度方面和对研究区域的完整覆盖方面优势明显,高分辨率的垂向z坐标也可以较好地拟合海底地形,从而得到较高分辨率的三维数值模拟结果。(3)通过诊断计算,模拟再现了东中国海春季环流的多涡结构,分辨出了台湾暖流、黄海沿岸流、黄海暖流等流系。(4)比较诊断与强诊断两个计算结果,它们在定性上较为一致,在定量上有些差别,总体分布强诊断计算结果更为合理。     

Three-dimensional numerical simulation of wind-induced barotropic circulation in the Gulf of Patras

The barotropic, wind-induced circulation, which develops in the Gulf of Patras in Western Greece during the winter, is studied using three-dimensional numerical simulations. The simulations are performed using the numerical code MIKE 3 FM (HD). The Gulf's basin is bracketed between two sills, one on the west at the opening with the Ionian Sea and the other on the east at the Straits of Rio-Antirio at the opening with the Gulf of Corinth. The simulations show that the wind-induced flow creates strong currents near the coasts, which determine the sense of rotation of the gyres that develop in the Gulf. Strong currents are also created at the Rio-Antirio Straits. The wind-induced, barotropic currents do not seem to contribute to the direct replenishment of bottom waters, which recirculate between the two sills. Depending on the wind-speed forcing of the flow, the residence time of the waters in the Gulf of Patras is estimated to range from one week to one month.     

Numerical simulation of nearshore circulation on field topography under random wave environment

In order to investigate surf zone hydrodynamics through two-dimensional numerical simulations of nearshore circulation under random wave environment, a nearshore circulation model, SHORECIRC, and a random wave model, SWAN, were combined and utilized. Using this combined model, a numerical simulation of the October 2, 1997 SandyDuck field experiment was performed. For this simulation, field topography and an input offshore spectrum were constructed using observed data sets synchronized with the experiment. The wave-breaking model in SWAN was modified by using breaker parameters varied according to bottom slope. The simulation results were compared with the experimental data, which revealed a well-developed longshore current, as well as with results using other combinations which were SHORECIRC and its original monochromatic wave-driver, and SHORECIRC and the default of SWAN. The results from the novel combined model agreed well with the experimental data. The results of the present simulation also indicate that alongshore field topography influences shear fluctuation of longshore currents.     

辐射应力理论在近岸区的应用及其研究进展

概述了波浪辐射应力理论,介绍了波浪辐射应力理论在海洋流体动力学尤其是近岸区的应用,重点分析了该理论在研究近岸波生流、波流相互作用等问题中的应用,总结了波浪辐射应力的研究进展,对辐射应力研究提出了建议。     

南海冬、夏季环流的三维数值模拟

本文利用一个斜压三维陆架海模式——HAMSOM模式对12月份和8月份的南海环流进行数值模拟,结果为:对上层流场,在12月份,在西沙群岛－中沙群岛海区间呈现一个气旋式环流,在越南中部东岸存在一支南向西边界流,在金兰湾的远海为一局地反气旋涡,在南海南部,主要表现为万安滩的气旋式大弯曲(气旋涡)及在北康暗沙北侧的反气旋涡;在8月份,在东沙群岛－中沙群岛－吕宋岛西侧海域间存在一大尺度的气旋涡,在南海西部主要表现为以西沙群岛南部的气旋涡与金兰湾－礼乐滩间的反气旋式大环流相对峙的局面,同时在万安滩东侧有－气旋涡.由于斜压效应、底形效应的作用,使冬、夏季的南海南部中层流场几乎与上层流场相反.     

The circulation of the eastern tropical Pacific: A review

During the 1950s and 1960s, an extensive field study and interpretive effort was made by researchers, primarily at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, to sample and understand the physical oceanography of the eastern tropical Pacific. That work was inspired by the valuable fisheries of the region, the recent discovery of the equatorial undercurrent, and the growing realization of the importance of the El Niño phenomenon. Here we review what was learned in that effort, and integrate those findings with work published since then as well as additional diagnoses based on modern data sets.Unlike the central Pacific, where the winds are nearly zonal and the ocean properties and circulation are nearly independent of longitude, the eastern tropical Pacific is distinguished by wind forcing that is strongly influenced by the topography of the American continent. Its circulation is characterized by short zonal scales, permanent eddies and significant off-equatorial upwelling. Notably, the Costa Rica Dome and a thermocline bowl to its northwest are due to winds blowing through gaps in the Central American cordillera, which imprint their signatures on the ocean through linear Sverdrup dynamics. Strong annual modulation of the gap winds and the meridional oscillation of the Intertropical Convergence Zone generates a Rossby wave, superimposed on the direct forcing, that results in a southwestward-propagating annual thermocline signal accounting for major features of observed thermocline depth variations, including that of the Costa Rica Dome, the Tehuantepec bowl, and the ridge–trough system of the North Equatorial Countercurrent (NECC). Interannual variability of sea surface temperature (SST) and altimetric sea surface height signals suggests that the strengthening of the NECC observed in the central Pacific during El Niño events continues all the way to the coast, warming SST (by zonal advection) in a wider meridional band than the equatorially trapped thermocline anomalies, and pumping equatorial water poleward along the coast.The South Equatorial Current originates as a combination of equatorial upwelling, mixing and advection from the NECC, and Peru coastal upwelling, but its sources and their variability remain unresolved. Similarly, while much of the Equatorial Undercurrent flows southeast into the Peru Undercurrent and supplies the coastal upwelling, a quantitative assessment is lacking. We are still unable to put together the eastern interconnections among the long zonal currents of the central Pacific.     

Development of A Depth-Integrated Longshore Current Model with Unstructured Grids

A depth-integrated model for simulating wave-induced longshore current was developed with unstructured grids. Effects of surface roller and horizontal mixing under combined waves and currents were incorporated in the numerical model. Recommended values of model coefficients were also proposed based on sensitivity analysis. Field observations and three series of laboratory measurements including two cases conducted on the plane beach and one implemented on the ideal inlet were employed to examine the predictive capability of this model. For the field case and laboratory cases conducted on the plane beach, numerical results were compared favorably with the measured data. For the case with an ideal inlet, simulated circulation pattern is supposed to be reasonable although some deviations between numerical results and measured data still can be detected.     

A numerical model of beach morphological evolution due to waves and currents in the vicinity of coastal structures

A numerical model was developed of beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. The model includes five sub-models for random wave transformation, surface roller development, nearshore wave-induced currents, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. The model was validated using high-quality data sets obtained during experiments with a T-head groin and a detached breakwater in the basin of the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, Miss, USA. The simulations showed that the model reproduced well the wave conditions, wave-induced currents, and beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. Both salient and tombolo formation behind a T-head groin and a detached breakwater were simulated with good agreement compared to the measurements.     

Numerical study of the storm-induced circulation on the Scotian Shelf during Hurricane Juan using a nested-grid ocean model

A nested-grid ocean circulation modelling system is used to assess the upper ocean response of the Scotian Shelf and adjacent slope to Hurricane Juan in September 2003. The nested-grid system consists of a fine-grid inner model covering the Scotian Shelf/slope and a coarse-grid outer model covering the northwest Atlantic Ocean. The model-calculated upper ocean response to Hurricane Juan is characterized by large divergent surface currents forced by the local wind forcing under the storm, and intense near-inertial currents in the wake of the storm. The sea surface temperature (SST) cooling produced by the model is biased to the right of the storm track and agrees well with a satellite-derived analysis. Over the deep water, off the Scotian Shelf, some of the near-inertial energy input by the storm is advected eastward by the Gulf Stream away from the storm track. The hurricane also generates shelf waves that propagate equatorward with the coastline on their right. In comparison with the outer model results, the inner model captures more meso-scale structures, greater SST cooling and stronger near-inertial currents in the study region.     

人工岛周围的波生流计算方法

针对Hardy-Cross法的基本原理建立的一种波生流计算的数值模型在计算处理人工岛周围区域方面还存在的问题,提出了解决处理方法,并通过算例验证了该模型能够运用于人工岛等岛状非水面区域附近的波生流计算,从而消除了Hardy-Cross法实用化中的一个障碍.     

Modeling of circulation and salinity in Hooghly estuary

The circulation and salinity distribution in the Hooghly Estuary have been studied by developing a two‐dimensional depth‐averaged numerical model for the lower estuary, where the flow is vertically well mixed. This has been coupled with a one‐dimensional model for the upper estuary, where the flow is assumed to be unidirectional and well mixed over the depth and breadth. The Hooghly River receives high freshwater discharge during the monsoon season (June to September), which has significant effect on the salinity distribution in the estuary. The model‐simulated currents, elevations, and salinities are in good agreement with observations during the dry season. However, during the wet season the computed salinities seem to deviate slightly from the observed values.     

杭州湾的三维水流数值模拟

建立了一个基于σ变换和内外模式分裂技术三维水流数学模型，采用有限节点法（平面）和变步长差分法（σ向）对方程进行了离散；通过风生流和环岛水流两个理论模式对所建模型进行了校验，并将该模型应用到杭州湾的三维水流数值模拟中，效果良好，所建模型垂向分辨率高，简单实用，可应用于河口，海岸，湖泊等大范围水域的水流数值计算。