Effect of the drag coefficient on a typhoon wave model

The effect of the drag coefficient on a typhoon wave model is investigated.Drag coefficients for Pingtan Island are derived from the progress of nine typhoons using COARE 3.0 software.The wind parameters are obtained using the Weather Research and Forecasting model.The simulation of wind agrees well with observations.Typhoon wave fields are then simulated using the third-generation wave model SWAN.The wave model includes exponential and linear growths of the wind input,which determine the wave-growth mode.A triple triangular mesh is adopted with spatial resolution as fine as 100 m nearshore.The SWAN model performs better when using the new drag coefficient rather than the original coefficient.     

台湾岛邻近海域台风浪的模拟研究

基于目前国际上较为先进的第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN（Simulation Waves Near-shore)。在充分考虑相关物理过程（风生浪，底摩擦，白帽耗散，深度诱导波破碎，非线性波－波相互作用）基础上，以较高的分辨率对影响台湾岛邻近海域的9015号台风浪过程进行了模拟研究。模式所需风场由藤田台风风场模型同化相应台风资料后提供；用自嵌套方式提供模式波谱边界条件。模拟结果与实际台风浪资料相符较好。台风过程模拟结果表明；台风中心位于台湾岛邻近海域的不同位置，台风浪有效波高的分布特征和传播方向都有着较大的差异。可以为整个台湾岛邻近海域台风浪分布特征的了解与认识提供较好的参考。     

9711号台风对日照近海悬沙浓度影响的数值模拟

运用改进的椭圆形风场模型,模拟了9711号台风所经地区风场、气压场的变化过程;将椭圆形风场模型结果结合SWAN波浪模型,计算9711台风过程的波要素;运用COHERENS三维水动力模式,对渤、黄海主要的4个潮分量进行了调和分析,建立渤、黄海天文潮预报模型,并采用三级嵌套模型计算并验证分析了日照近海的水文动力环境;运用基于COHERENS发展的水动力悬沙模型COHERENS-SED,计算分析了9711天气过程、仅考虑潮流作用以及累年平均波要素和一般天气情况(累年平均风场、标准大气压)下的悬沙数值模拟.结果表明:考虑潮流、一般波浪和天气因素共同作用下的水体含沙浓度比仅考虑潮流作用下的水体含沙浓度提高40%～100%的幅度;考虑9711号天气过程以及产生的台风浪作用下的水体含沙浓度比一般波浪和天气因素作用下的水体含沙浓度提高约4倍的幅度.     

太湖风浪场的计算与比较

首先探讨了浅水风浪数值模型—SWAN模型应用于模拟内陆湖泊风浪生成和传播变形时的特点。该模型存在不能有效地模拟近固壁边界处风浪场的缺点,以能正确地模拟湖区的风浪场和节约计算时间为原则,确定了计算范围。对太湖进行了风场和风浪场的现场观测。分别利用规范公式和SWAN模型两种方法、根据观测和预报的风场计算了湖区的有效波高,并将计算结果和现场观测值进行了详细比较。结果表明基于观测的风场,利用两种方法所计算的太湖风浪场的精度基本相当;在根据观测的风场、利用SWAN模型计算内陆湖泊的风浪场时,需要精心选择恰当的风场;在根据预报的风场预报湖区风浪场时,SWAN模型的精度要高于规范公式的精度。     

Nonlinear saturation-based whitecapping dissipation in SWAN for deep and shallow water

This study investigates the effectiveness of a revised whitecapping source term in the spectral wind wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) that is local in frequency space, nonlinear with respect to the variance density and weakly dependent on the wave age. It is investigated whether this alternative whitecapping expression is able to correct the tendency towards underprediction of period measures that has been identified in the default SWAN model. This whitecapping expression is combined with an alternative wind input source term that is more accurate for young waves than the default expression. The shallow water source terms of bottom friction, depth-induced breaking and triad interaction are left unaltered. It is demonstrated that this alternative source term combination yields improved agreement with fetch- and depth-limited growth curves. Moreover, it is shown, by means of a field case over a shelf sea, that the investigated model corrects the erroneous overprediction of wind-sea energy displayed by the default model under combined swell-sea conditions. For a selection of field cases recorded at two shallow lakes, the investigated model generally improves the agreement with observed spectra and integral parameters. The improvement is most notable in the prediction of period measures.     

WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟台风浪场的结果分析

利用WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟2007年8月墨西哥湾飓风迪安的波浪场.将QSCAT/NCEP混合风场与台风模型风场合成为背景风场.修改WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套接口以使WAVEWATCH和SWAN2种海浪预报模式能够有效地嵌套运行.利用WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟飓风迪安的波浪场,采用浮标资料检验模拟结果,以验证WAVEWATCH和SWAN模拟的准确性及修改后嵌套接口的可用性.结果表明,修改嵌套接口之后模式运行平稳,2种模式的结果与浮标及高度计观测数据均基本吻合.嵌套模拟结果好于单纯使用WAVEWATCH模拟的结果,体现了利用2种模式嵌套模拟台风浪场的科学性.     

珠江口附近海域波浪场的数值计算与特征分析

本文以WRF模式输出结果作为风场驱动条件,采用SWAN和WAVEWATCHIII相嵌套的方法,对珠江口附近海域进行20年(1991-2010年)的波浪场数值计算。根据计算结果,分析了珠江口海域波高和周期的空间、时间变化特征。结果显示:珠江入海口及近岸Hs较小,外海Hs较大,大部分海域年均Hs在0.4m以上;珠江口附近海域和近海地区年均Te偏小,在2s^3s之间,外海最大可达5s。珠江海域有效波高(Hs)的季节分布呈现出春夏季较小,秋冬季较大的特点。从概率学角度分别统计20年中前5%和10%的Hs及Te,可知:珠江口近海区域Hs,5%在1~2m,大万山群岛处可达Hs,5%2m;在珠江口附近Hs,10%为1.5m,万山海域Hs,10%在2.5m以上;计算海域Te,5%和Te,10%多在4s以上。     

Multidirectional wave transformation around detached breakwaters

The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching.     

SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪模拟研究

基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。     

渤海重现期波高的数值计算

利用RAMS大气模式给出的20年风场资料,利用SWAN近海波浪模式对渤海海域的波浪进行了20 a数值计算.通过与一般过程和大风过程的实测资料的对比后发现.波浪模拟值与实潮值符合地较好,SWAN模式适合渤海海域波浪的计算。通过分析发现.辽东湾常浪向为SSW。强浪向为SSW;渤海中部常浪向为S,强浪向为NE;渤海海峡常浪向为NNW,强浪向为NNW;莱州湾常浪向为S,强浪向为NNE;渤海湾常浪向为S.强浪向为NE。渤中偏东南海域(38°～39°N,119.5°～120.5°E)多年一遇有效波高最大.其中百年一遇有效波高最大值达到6.7m。     

Simulating typhoon waves by SWAN wave model in coastal waters of Taiwan

The SWAN wave model is typically designed for wave simulations in the near-shore region and thus is selected for evaluating its applicability on typhoon waves in the coastal waters around Taiwan Island. Numerical calculations on processes of wave heights and periods during the passages of four representative typhoons are compared with measured data from field wave stations on both east and west coasts. The results have shown that waves due to typhoons of paths 2, 3 and 4 can be reasonably simulated on east coastal waters. However, discrepancies increase for the simulated results on west coastal waters because the island's central mountains partly damage the cyclonic structures of the passing-over typhoons. It is also found that the included nested grid scheme in SWAN could improve the accuracy of simulations in coastal waters to facilitate further engineering practices.     

非结构网格模型在闽东沿海台风浪模拟中的应用

基于加密的非结构三角网格,以Holland模型风场叠加美国国家环境预报中心（NCEP）海面风场构造的合成风场驱动第三代浅水波浪数值模型（SWAN）对2017年影响闽东海域的“纳沙”和“泰利”台风过程进行数值模拟,并运用浮标站的实测数据对模拟结果进行验证.结果表明,模型计算的风速、有效波高与实测值符合较好,合成风场能较好地模拟台风期间的风速变化过程,SWAN模式能够合理地再现闽东沿海台风浪的时空分布特征.由模拟结果可见：台风“纳沙”中心越过台湾岛进入台湾海峡北部海面,受海峡地形的约束,其波浪场呈NE—SW向椭圆状分布,北部海域的浪高大于南部,闽东沿海遍布大范围的巨浪到狂浪;超强台风“泰利”未登陆闽东,当其台风中心与大陆的距离最近时,海面波浪场分布与台风风场结构一致,台风中心附近海域为14 m以上的怒涛区,巨浪遍布于闽东沿海.研究结果可为闽东沿海台风浪灾害预警和应急管理提供技术支撑和参考依据.     

On convergence behaviour and numerical accuracy in stationary SWAN simulations of nearshore wind wave spectra

Irregular convergence behaviour is frequently encountered when computations of wave spectra are performed by means of the third-generation wind wave model SWAN (Simulating WAve Nearshore). Numerical accuracy is another key issue. The present paper proposes two techniques that improve the convergence and accuracy properties of SWAN in the prediction of stationary wave conditions in the nearshore zone. The first is an under-relaxation approach in which the extent of updates during the iteration process, which underlies a route to steady state, is made proportional to wave frequency. This method complies with the principle of decreasing time scales at higher frequencies, which is inherent to the evolution of wind waves. As a result, the improved SWAN model is free from numerical restrictions to spectral shape in the non-equilibrium range. The second proposed method is a new termination criterion associated with the rate of model convergence, by which the identification of the point of convergence is improved. The capabilities of these methods are demonstrated by simulations of idealized cases and a field application featuring fetch- and depth-limited wave growth. It is concluded that the proposed termination criterion improves numerical accuracy and that the action density limiter, as currently used in SWAN, has minimal negative influence on stationary model results.     

台湾海峡有效波高的SWAN模式与ERA-Interim数据对比分析

有效波高是描述海浪的关键参数。欧洲中期天气预报中心（ECMWF）提供的ERA-Interim再分析数据提供了全球海浪的有效波高,本文选取该数据在台湾海峡2013年3月份的有效波高结果,分别与浮标观测数据以及海浪数值模式SWAN （Simulating Waves Nearshore）的数值模拟结果相对比,来分析其预报效果。结果显示:在浮标点,ERA-Interim数据和SWAN模拟浪高数据与浮标浪高数据的时间相关系数分别为0.94和0.98,ERA-Interim数据的浪高均值约为浮标的51%,为SWAN模拟数据的70%。在台湾海峡区域,ERA-Interim数据与SWAN模拟浪高之间的空间异常相关系数（ACC）月均值为0.51,时序ACC曲线显示,一般在海峡东北口风初起时刻ACC值最小,在风吹遍海峡并增长的过程中,ACC迅速增加,在风速达到最大值之后,ACC开始下降,但ERA-Interim数据与SWAN数值模拟结果在整个海峡区域的浪高最大值与最小值分布位置基本一致。综合分析,ERA-Interim数据能够反映台湾海峡区域此时间段的有效波高的时空变化趋势,在数值上有明显低估。     

Wave Numerical Model for Shallow Water

The history of forecasting wind waves by wave energy conservation equation is briefly des-cribed.Several currently used wave numerical models for shallow water based on different wave theoriesare discussed.Wave energy conservation models for the simulation of shallow water waves are introduced,with emphasis placed on the SWAN model,which takes use of the most advanced wave research achieve-ments and has been applied to several theoretical and field conditions.The characteristics and applicabilityof the model,the finite difference numerical scheme of the action balance equation and its source termscomputing methods are described in detail.The model has been verified with the propagation refractionnumerical experiments for waves propagating in following and opposing currents;finally.the model is ap-plied to the Haian Gulf area to simulate the wave height and wave period field there,and the results arecompared with observed data.     

利用WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套计算珠江口附近海域的风浪场*

基于CCMP(Cross Calibrated Multi-platform)卫星遥感海面风场数据,通过将WAVEWATCH和SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore)模型嵌套的方法,数值模拟了珠江口附近海域的风浪场。将总计10个月的数值模拟的有效波高、波周期和波向分别与相应的观测值进行了定量比较。结果说明,有效波高的平均绝对误差为15.4cm,分散系数SI为0.240,相关系数为0.925;波周期的平均绝对误差为1.9s,分散系数SI为0.433,相关系数为0.636;波向的平均绝对误差为23.9°。计算的波高和波向与观测结果的变化趋势相吻合。由于第三代海浪模式本身的缺陷,导致所计算的波周期偏小。总体说来,本文所采用的数值模式能较好地模拟珠江口附近海域的风浪场。另外,还设计了6个算例以探讨采用不同的计算方法和风场对计算结果精度的影响。结果表明使用本文的数值方法和高精度的CCMP风场确实可以提高计算结果的精度。     

寒潮影响下江苏沿海风浪场数值模拟研究

基于第三代浅水波浪数值预报模型SWAN,建立自西北太平洋嵌套至东中国海、江苏沿海的三重嵌套模型,对2010年12月12日至15日江苏沿海寒潮大风引起的风浪过程进行了数值模拟研究。利用西北太平洋和江苏沿海实测数据对模型进行了验证,结果表明SWAN嵌套模型能较好地模拟江苏沿海寒潮风浪场的时空分布。通过响水站实测数据对江苏沿海底摩擦系数进行了率定,研究表明选取Collins拖曳理论中摩擦因数C_f=0.001时,有效波高模拟误差相对较小。寒潮风浪场的特征分析表明,有效波高分布与风场分布基本一致,寒潮风浪在江苏沿海北部影响较为显著,辐射沙洲附近由于其特殊地形影响相对较小。     

Evaluation of a high-resolution wave hindcast model SWAN for the West Mediterranean basin

This study aims to present an evaluation and implementation of a high-resolution SWAN wind wave hindcast model forced by the CFSR wind fields in the west Mediterranean basin, taking into account the recent developments in wave modelling as the new source terms package ST6. For this purpose, the SWAN model was calibrated based on one-year wave observations of Azeffoune buoy (Algerian coast) and validated against eleven wave buoys measurements through the West Mediterranean basin. For the calibration process, we focused on the whitecapping dissipation coefficient C_ds and on the exponential wind wave growth and whitecapping dissipation source terms. The statistical error analysis of the calibration results led to conclude that the SWAN model calibration corrected the underestimation of the significant wave height hindcasts in the default mode and improved its accuracy in the West Mediterranean basin. The exponential wind wave growth of Komen et al (1984) and the whitecapping dissipation source terms of Janssen (1991) with C_ds = 1.0 have been thus recommended for the western Mediterranean basin. The comparison of the simulation results obtained using this calibrated parameters against eleven measurement buoys showed a high performance of the calibrated SWAN model with an average scatter index of 30% for the significant wave heights and 19% for the mean wave period. This calibrated SWAN model will constitute a practical wave hindcast model with high spatial resolution (˜3 km) and high accuracy in the Algerian basin, which will allow us to proceed to a finer mesh size using the SWAN nested grid system in this area.     

Numerical investigation of ocean waves generated by three typhoons in offshore China

The influences of the three types of reanalysis wind fields on the simulation of three typhoon waves occurred in 2015 in offshore China were numerically investigated. The typhoon wave model was based on the simulating waves nearshore model (SWAN), in which the wind fields for driving waves were derived from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Re-Analysis-Interim (ERA-interim), the National Centers for Environmental Prediction climate forecast system version 2 (CFSv2) and cross-calibrated multi-platform (CCMP) datasets. Firstly, the typhoon waves generated during the occurrence of typhoons Chan-hom (1509), Linfa (1510) and Nangka (1511) in 2015 were simulated by using the wave model driven by ERA-interim, CFSv2 and CCMP datasets. The numerical results were validated using buoy data and satellite observation data, and the simulation results under the three types of wind fields were in good agreement with the observed data. The numerical results showed that the CCMP wind data was the best in simulating waves overall, and the wind speeds pertaining to ERA-Interim and CCMP were notably smaller than those observed near the typhoon centre. To correct the accuracy of the wind fields, the Holland theoretical wind model was used to revise and optimize the wind speed pertaining to the CCMP near the typhoon centre. The results indicated that the CCMP wind-driven SWAN model could appropriately simulate the typhoon waves generated by three typhoons in offshore China, and the use of the CCMP/Holland blended wind field could effectively improve the accuracy of typhoon wave simulations.     

SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响

本文以荷兰哈灵水道海域为实验区域,通过敏感性实验,研究了在14 m/s、31.5 m/s和50 m/s（分别代表一般大风、强热带风暴和强台风的极端条件）定常风速下SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响程度。结果表明,对于近岸浅水区域（水深小于20 m）,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响较小,而且当风速增加到一定程度后,波浪破碎成为影响波高值的主要因素;对于深水区域（水深大于30 m）,一般大风条件下风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响仍然较小,随着风速的继续增大,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高的影响逐渐显著。对于平均周期,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择和风速的改变对其影响均较小,而由水深变浅导致的波浪破碎对其影响较为显著。根据敏感性实验结果,本文对SWAN模型中风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择做出如下建议:计算近岸浅水区域风浪场或深水区域一般大风条件风浪场时,其风拖曳力系数可以直接采用模型默认选项;而对于深水区域更大风速条件,可首先采用模型默认选项试算,然后结合当地海域实测波浪资料进行修正。