Study on Influences of Fringing Reef on Harbor Oscillations Triggered by N-Waves

Influences of topographic variations of the offshore fringing reef on the harbor oscillations excited by incident Nwaves with different amplitudes and waveform types are studied for the first time. Both the propagation of the Nwaves over the reef and the subsequently-induced harbor oscillations are simulated by a Boussinesq-type numerical model, FUNWAVE-TVD. The present study concentrates on revealing the influences of the plane reef-face slope,the reef-face profile shape and the lagoon width on the maximum runup, the wave energy distribution and the total wave energy within the harbor. It shows that both the wave energy distribution uniformity and the total wave energy gradually increase with decreasing reef-face slope. The profile shape of the reef face suffering leading-elevation Nwaves(LEN waves) has a negligible impact on the wave energy distribution uniformity, while for leading-depression N-waves(LDN waves), the latter gradually decreases with the mean water depth over the reef face. The total wave energy always first increases and then decreases with the mean water depth over the reef face. In general, the total wave energy first sharply decreases and then slightly increases with the lagoon width, regardless of the reef-face width and the incident waveform type. The maximum runup subjected to the LEN waves decreases monotonously with the lagoon width. However, for the LDN waves, its changing trend with the lagoon width relies on the incident wave amplitude.     

A Numerical Investigation of the Reduction of Solitary Wave Runup by A Row of Vertical Slotted Piles

To improve the current understanding of the reduction of tsunami-like solitary wave runup by the pile breakwater on a sloping beach, we developed a 3D numerical wave tank based on the CFD tool OpenFOAM in this study. The Navier Stokes equations were applied to solve the two-phase incompressible flow, combined with an LES model to solve the turbulence and a VOF method to capture the free surface. The adopted model was firstly validated with existing empirical formulas for solitary wave runup on the slope without the pile structure. It is then validated using our new laboratory observations of the free surface elevation, the velocity and the pressure around a row of vertical slotted piles subjected to solitary waves, as well as the wave runup on the slope behind the piles. Subsequently, a set of numerical simulations were implemented to analyze the wave reflection, the wave transmission, and the shoreline runup with various offshore wave heights, offshore water depths, adjacent pile spaces and beach slopes. Finally, an improved empirical equation accounting for the maximum wave runup on the slope was proposed by taking the presence of the pile breakwater into consideration.     

Statistical characteristics of long waves nearshore

The random long wave runup on a beach of constant slope is studied in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow water theory. These solutions are used for calculation of the statistical characteristics of the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline and its horizontal velocity. It is shown that probability characteristics of the runup heights and extreme values of the shoreline velocity coincide in the linear and nonlinear theory. If the incident wave is represented by a narrow-band Gaussian process, the runup height is described by a Rayleigh distribution. The significant runup height can also be found within the linear theory of long wave shoaling and runup. Wave nonlinearity nearshore does not affect the Gaussian probability distribution of the velocity of the moving shoreline. However the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline becomes non-Gaussian due to the wave nonlinearity. Its statistical moments are calculated analytically. It is shown that the mean water level increases (setup), the skewness is always positive and kurtosis is positive for weak amplitude waves and negative for strongly nonlinear waves. The probability of the wave breaking is also calculated and conditions of validity of the analytical theory are discussed. The spectral and statistical characteristics of the moving shoreline are studied in detail. It is shown that the probability of coastal floods grows with an increase in the nonlinearity. Randomness of the wave field nearshore leads to an increase in the wave spectrum width.     

On the run-up and back-wash processes of single and double solitary waves — An experimental study

The run-up and back-wash processes of single and double solitary waves on a slope were studied experimentally. Experiments were conducted in three different wave flumes with four different slopes. For single solitary wave, new experimental data were acquired and, based on the theoretical breaking criterion, a new surf parameter specifically for breaking solitary waves was proposed. An equation to estimate maximum fractional run-up height on a given slope was also proposed. For double solitary waves, new experiments were performed by using two successive solitary waves with equal wave heights; these waves were separated by various durations. The run-up heights of the second wave were found to vary with respect to the separation time. Particle image velocimetry measurements revealed that the intensity of the back-wash flow generated by the first wave strongly affected the run-up height of the second wave. Showing trends similar to that of the second wave run-up heights, both the back-wash breaking process of the first wave and the reflected waves were strongly affected by the wave–wave interaction. Empirical run-up formula for the second solitary wave was also introduced.     

The role of horizontal impulses of the faulting continental slope in generating the 26 December 2004 tsunami

For a long time, people have believed that the vertical displacement of seafloor due to undersea earthquakes is the primary cause of tsunami genesis. However, seismically-inverted seafloor deformation of the 2004 Sumatra–Andaman earthquake shows that the total vertical displacement is not enough to have generated the powerful Indian Ocean tsunami. Based on the seismically-inverted data and a three-dimensional ocean general circulation model (OGCM), we show that the momentum force, transferred by the horizontal impulses of the faulting continental slope in that earthquake, has accounted for two thirds of the satellite-observed tsunami height and generated kinetic energy 5 times larger than the potential energy due to the vertical displacement. The asymmetric tsunami pattern, recorded by tide-gauges showing leading-elevation waves toward Sri Lanka and leading-depression waves toward Thailand, is best explained by the horizontally-forced mechanism. The same mechanism has also explained the March 2005 Nias earthquake and tsunami data, suggesting that the horizontal motions of faulting have played more important roles in tsunami genesis than previously thought.     

完全非线性孤立波的直墙反射

报道了应用边界积分方法模拟完全非线性孤立波的传播与直墙反射,给出了波形演变过程。结果表明,本模型对计算孤立波的传播与直墙反射是有效的。三阶Boussinesq方程的孤立波解比低阶方程的孤立波解更接近完全非线性的数值解.当来波波高增大时,孤立波直墙反射的相位滞后变小。若考虑大波高孤立波的直墙反射或波——波相互作用,一阶理论预报的相位滞后往往低估实际情况。     

珊瑚岛礁孤立波爬坡的平面二维数值模拟研究

为了探究岛屿周围珊瑚礁在抵御海啸灾害中的作用,采用激波捕捉类Boussinesq模型FUNWAVE-TVD,对孤立波在理想化三维岛礁地形上的传播及爬坡开展了现场尺度的平面二维数值模拟,分析了入射波高、礁坪水深、礁坪宽度、礁前斜坡坡度、礁后斜坡坡度、珊瑚礁糙率对岛屿四周孤立波爬高分布的影响。结果表明,珊瑚礁的存在总体上可有效降低岛屿四周孤立波的最大爬坡高度;入射波高、礁坪水深、礁坪宽度、珊瑚礁糙率是影响珊瑚岛礁四周孤立波爬坡分布的主要因素,岛礁四周最大爬坡高度会随入射波高和礁坪水深的增大、礁坪宽度和珊瑚礁糙率的减小而不断增大;当礁坪水深增大到一定程度时,珊瑚礁主要会对岛屿背浪面的爬高失去影响,而当礁坪宽度和珊瑚礁糙率减小至一定程度时,会出现岛礁四周最大爬高高于无珊瑚礁时爬高的现象;礁后斜坡的变缓会使岛礁周围的最大爬高有所减小,而礁前斜坡坡度对珊瑚岛礁周围的最大爬高几乎没有影响。     

Computation of solitary waves during propagation and runup on a slope

A numerical time-simulation algorithm for analysing highly nonlinear solitary waves interacting with plane gentle and steep slopes is described by employing a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian method. The full nonlinear free surface conditions are considered here in a Lagrangian frame of reference without any analytical approximations, and thus the method is valid for very steep waves including overturning. It is found that the runup height is crucially dependent on the wave steepness and the slope of the plane. Pressures and forces exerted on impermeable walls of different inclinations (slopes) by progressive shallow water solitary waves are studied. Strong nonlinear features in the form of pronounced double peaks are visible in the time history of pressure and force signals with increasing heights of the oncoming solitary waves. The effect of nonlinearity is less pronounced as the inclination of the wall decreases with respect to the bottom surface.     

Comparisons of Computational and Experimental Results of Solitary Wave Breaking

- In this paper, the solitary wave deformation along a gentle slope and the impact pressure, on the wall are investigated experimentally and the results are compared with numerical results obtained based on the volume of fluid (VOF) method. The topography used in the experiment consists of three segments. The left segment is a 1:4 slope, the middle segment 1 :SO slope and the right segment a horizontal bed. Both the wave heights and breaking points obtained from numerical simulation and experiments are in good agreement. Numerical results give reasonable pressure distributions of breaking waves on the wall.     

NWF: Propagation of Tsunami and its Interaction with Continental Shelf and Vertical Wall

In this article, tsunamis represented as solitary waves was simulated using the fully nonlinear free surface waves based on Finite Element method developed by Sriram et al. (2006). The split up of solitary wave while it propagates over the uneven bottom topography is successfully established. Wave transmission and reflection over a vertical step introduced in the bottom topography is in good agreement with the experimental results from Seabra-Santos et al. (1987). The wave transformation over a continental shelf with different smooth slopes reveals that the solitary wave reflection increases while the continental slope varies from flat to steep. The interaction of the solitary wave with a vertical wall for different wave steepness has been analysed. The reflected shape of the profile is in good agreement with the observation made by Fenton and Rienecker (1982) and an increase in wave celerity is observed.     

Numerical simulation of solitary wave scattering by a circular cylinder array

The interaction of a solitary wave with an array of surface-piercing vertical circular cylinders is investigated numerically. The wave motion is modeled by a set of generalized Boussinesq equations. The governing equations are discretized using a finite element method. The numerical model is validated against the experimental data of solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall and solitary wave scattering by a vertical circular cylinder respectively. The predicted wave surface elevation and the wave forces on the cylinder agree well with the experimental data. The numerical model is then employed to study solitary wave scattering by arrays of two circular cylinders and four circular cylinders respectively. The effect of wave direction on the wave forces and the wave runup on the cylinders is quantified.     

Reflection of long internal waves of small amplitudes from an underwater slope

The dynamics of long waves in the vicinity of a transition point of a two-layer flow into a single-layer one is studied within the linear theory of shallow water. The analogy between this problem and the classical problem of surface wave runup on the shore is shown. Conditions for breaking internal waves on a slope are discussed.     

孤立波在岸礁地形上传播与爬坡数值模拟研究

为准确模拟孤立波在岸礁地形上的传播和爬坡,采用基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程开发的Funwave-TVD模型,探究模型的可行性,并利用验证后的模型进一步研究岸礁各地形因素对孤立波爬高的影响。研究结果表明:模型能准确模拟孤立波在岸礁陡变地形上的传播及变形,摩擦系数对礁前陡坡及礁坪上的波浪传播模拟影响不大,但对爬坡预测的敏感性较强;模型空间步长可适当增大,提高计算效率;随着礁坪宽度的增大以及礁后斜坡的变缓,孤立波爬坡高度下降明显,而礁前陡坡坡度变化对孤立波爬坡高度影响不大。     

Random wave runup and overtopping a steep sea wall: Shallow-water and Boussinesq modelling with generalised breaking and wall impact algorithms validated against laboratory and field measurements

A semi-implicit shallow-water and Boussinesq model has been developed to account for random wave breaking, impact and overtopping of steep sea walls including recurves. At a given time breaking is said to occur if the wave height to water depth ratio for each individual wave exceeds a critical value of 0.6 and the Boussinesq terms are simply switched off. The example is presented of waves breaking over an offshore reef and then ceasing to break as they propagate inshore into deeper water and finally break as they run up a slope. This is not possible with the conventional criterion of a single onset of breaking based on rate of change of surface elevation which was also found to be less effective generally. The runup distribution on the slope inshore of the reef was well predicted. The model is tested against field data for overtopping available for Anchorsholme, Blackpool and corresponding 1:15 scale wave flume tests. Reflection of breaking waves impacting a steep sea wall is represented as a partial reversal of momentum flux with an empirically defined coefficient. Offshore to nearshore significant wave height variation was reasonably predicted although nearshore model spectra showed distinct differences from the experiments. The breaking wave shape described by a shape parameter was also not well represented as might be expected for such a simple model. Overtopping agreement between model, field and flume was generally good although repeatability of two nominally identical flume experiments was only within 25%. Different distributions of random phase between spectral components can cause overall overtopping rates to differ by up to a factor of two. Predictions of mean discharge by EurOtop methods were within a factor of two of experimental measurements.     

Wave runup on a surging vertical cylinder in regular waves

The wave runup caused by a vertical cylinder surging in regular waves is studied both experimentally and numerically. The so-called DualSPHysics Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) code is used for the 3-D numerical modelling. A wide range of cylinder sizes and wave conditions is investigated with results comparing favourably between the experimental and SPH model under both fixed and forced-surge conditions. The experimental and SPH results are further used to predict the maximum runup amplification, in particular the ratio of the runup caused by the surging cylinder to that of the fixed, over the phase difference between the incident wave and surge motion. This maximum runup ratio has been analysed for its dependence on factors such as wave steepness, wave scattering and surge amplitude. An empirical equation is proposed for predicting the maximum runup ratio from known incident wave and surge conditions. Comparison with results from linear solvers suggests that the linear solvers under-predict the full nonlinear runup by a factor of 1.3–1.5.     

Runup of the surface waves of various shapes on a sloping beach

In the long-wave approximation, we perform the numerical analysis of the plane problem of runup of waves of various shapes on a sloping beach. We study transformations of the shape of waves flooding the beach and in the course of their subsequent rundown. The dependence of maximum elevations and lowerings of the sea level on the parameters of the waves approaching the beach, the depth of the shelf, and the slope of the bottom are investigated. It is shown that the shape of waves affects the amplitude characteristics of oscillations of the coastline. The heights of the vertical runup of waves incident on a sloping beach can be several times higher than the amplitude of waves entering the shelf zone.     

Numerical Study on Breaking Criteria for Solitary Waves

Studies of the breaking criteria for solitary waves on a slope are presented in this paper. The boundary element method is used to model the processes of shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on various slopes. Empirical formulae that can be used to characterize the breaking of solitary waves are presented. These include the breaking index, the wave height, the water depth, and the maximum particle velocity at the point of breaking. Comparisons with the results of other researches are given.     

内孤立波浅化破碎过程斜坡沉积物孔压响应特征实验分析

观测资料显示内孤立波沿斜坡浅化过程对海底沉积物的作用犹如一台水中吸尘器,在破碎转换阶段达到最强,甚至会触发一系列地质活动,引发地质灾害。为界定此过程中沉积物的动力响应特征和影响因素,在大型重力式分层流水槽中模拟不同振幅内孤立波和不同类型沉积物斜坡连续作用过程,利用孔隙水压力采集系统实时记录孔隙水压力变化,对比分析不同水动力、坡度、沉积物类型情况下沉积物中超孔压变化特征。分析结果表明,内孤立波破碎过程,破波位置海床表层波压力和不同深度超孔隙水压力都存在相似的"U"型负压力变化过程;破碎波经过位置沉积物表现为和表面波压力正相关的孔压响应特征。破碎点沉积物中超孔压幅值随深度减小,约在6%波长深度位置减少到坡面压力的50%。超孔压幅值和内孤立波振幅、沉积物类型和斜坡度密切相关,坡度由0.071变化到0.160时,波压力幅值可增大至1.6倍。内孤立波振幅变化不影响不同类型海床土动力响应规律,只与超孔隙水压力值大小有关,内孤立波对海床的动力作用可认为弹性作用。     

Breaking of a tidal internal wave on a steep shelf as inferred from temperature measurements

The structure, evolution, and breaking of a tidal internal wave on a steep shelf are discussed on the basis of the data of temperature measurements. The bottom slope at the measurement site is close to the critical slope for a tidal wave. The tidal wave and other waves are inclined coastward. The tidal-wave amplitude increases monotonically with increasing horizon depth. The tidal wave is nonlinear in amplitude and turns over on the outer shelf. On the inner shelf, the internal wave is close in shape to rectangular and generates harmonics of its own. The harmonics make the tidal wave steeper and form solitary rises similar to bilateral bores. All these features ensure a more rapid sink for the internal-tide energy.     

Breaking of Solitary Waves on Uniform Slopes

The propagation,shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on mild slopes are simulated byboundary element method.In this paper,the criterion of breaking solitary waves on mild slopes is discussed.The criterion is that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave celerity equalsone.However,the case that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave ce-lerity is below one but the front face of wave profile becomes vertical is also considered as a breaking criteri-on.According to the above criteria,the breaking index for slopes 1:10 to 1:25 is studied.The result is com-pared to other researchers'.The deformation of solitary waves on slopes is discussed and the distribution offluid velocities at breaking is shown.