Numerical modeling of nonlinear resonance of semi-enclosed water bodies: Description and experimental validation

The purpose of this work is to a present a numerical model to solve a set of modified Boussinesq equations to analyse nonlinear resonance of semi-enclosed water bodies. The equations are solved on a finite element unstructured grid in order to achieve an optimal mesh resolution with the local geometry. The model is able to simulate long time lapses and realistic forcing in real bathymetries with a reasonable computational cost. To validate the numerical results, a set of experiments was carried out in a physical model of two adjacent elongated basins. Comparisons between numerical and experimental results for different geometries and nonlinear conditions show that the model is able to simulate with an excellent agreement the transient nonlinear resonant process.     

Essential properties of Boussinesq equations for internal and surface waves in a two-fluid system

Boussinesq equations describing motions of internal waves in a two-fluid system with the presence of free surface are theoretically derived, and the associated essential properties are examined in this study. Eliminating the dependence on the vertical coordinate from all variables, four equations constitute the Boussinesq model with two flexible parameters, z_u and z_l, which indicate the specific elevations, respectively, in the upper and lower fluids. Similar to the Boussinesq model for a single-layer fluid, z_u and z_l are determined by matching the linear dispersion relation with Lamb's solution. This determines the optimal model. In the analysis stage, this problem is classified into two cases, the thicker-upper-layer case and the thicker-lower-case case, to avoid the possible divergence of wave properties as the thickness ratio grows. Since there exist two modes of motions that may be excited, cases of both modes are separately analyzed. Linear characteristics including the amplitude ratios and normalized particle velocities are analyzed. Second-order harmonic waves are examined to validate nonlinear behaviors of present model. Results of linear and nonlinear investigations show that the present model indeed extends the applicable range of traditional Boussinesq equations.     

基于四阶完全非线性Boussinesq水波方程二维波浪传播数值模型

建立基于四阶完全非线性Boussinesq水波方程的二维波浪传播数值模型。采用Kennedy等提出的涡粘方法模拟波浪破碎。在矩形网格上对控制方程进行离散,采用高精度的数值格式对离散方程进行数值求解。对规则波在具有三维特征地形上的传播过程进行了数值模拟,通过数值模拟结果与实验结果的对比,对所建立的波浪传播模型进行了验证。同时,为了考察非线性对波浪传播的影响,给出和上述模型具有同阶色散性、变浅作用性能但仅具有二阶完全非线性特征的波浪模型的数值结果。通过对比两个模型的数值结果以及实验数据,讨论非线性在波浪传播过程中的作用。研究结果表明,所建立的Boussinesq水波方程在深水范围内不但具有较精确的色散性和变浅作用性能,而且具有四阶完全非线性特征,适合模拟波浪在近岸水域的非线性运动。     

Comparison between characteristics of mild slope equations and Boussinesq equations

Boussinesq-type equations and mild-slope equations are compared in terms of their basic forms and characteristics. It is concluded that linear mild-slope equations on dispersion relation are better than non-linear Boussinesq equations. In addition, Berkhoffexperiments are computed and compared by the two models, and agreement between model results and available experimental data is found to be quite reasonable, which demonstrates the two models＇ capacity to simulate wave transformation. However they can deal with different physical processes respectively, and they have their own characteristics.     

Higher order Boussinesq equations

A new form of Boussinesq-type equations accurate to the third order are derived in this paper to improve the linear dispersion and nonlinearity characteristics in deeper water. Fourth spatial derivatives in the third order terms of the equations are transformed into second derivatives and present no difficulty in numerical computations. With the increase in accuracy of the equations, the nonlinear and dispersion characteristics of the equations are of one order of magnitude higher accuracy than those of the classical Boussinesq equations. The equations can serve as a fully nonlinear model for shallow water waves. The shoaling property of the equations is also of high accuracy through shallow water to deep water by introducing an extra source term into the second order continuity equation. An approach to increase the accuracy of the nonlinear characteristics of the new equations is introduced. The expression for the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocities is a fourth order polynomial.     

高阶Boussinesq类方程数值求解及试验验证

基于二阶非线性与色散的Boussinesq类方程,采用改善的Crank-Nicolson方法对不同情况下淹没潜堤上的波浪传播进行数值模拟。高阶方程与传统、改进型的Boussinesq方程计算结果进行比较,高阶方程的计算结果与实验吻合得更好。表明该高阶Boussinesq方程能够精确预测变水深、强非线性的复杂波况,可用于实际近岸海域波浪问题的计算。     

An alternating direction implicit (ADI) numerical model for two-dimensional hydrodynamic equations

Ａｎａｌｔｅｒｎａｔｉｎｇｄｉｒｅｃｔｉｏｎｉｍｐｌｉｃｉｔ（ＡＤＩ）ｎｕｍｅｒｉｃａｌｍｏｄｅｌｆｏｒｔｗｏ－ｄｉｍｅｎｓｉｏｎａｌｈｙｄｒｏｄｙｎａｍｉｃｅｑｕａｔｉｏｎｓ￥ＰａｎＨａｉａｎｄＦａｎｇＧｕｏｈｏｎｇ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＤｅｃｅｍｂｅ...     

A temporally second-order accurate Godunov-type scheme for solving the extended Boussinesq equations

A numerical scheme for solving the class of extended Boussinesq equations is presented. Unlike previous schemes, where the governing equations are integrated through time using a fourth-order method, a second-order Godunov-type scheme is used thus saving storage and computational resources. The spatial derivatives are discretised using a combination of finite-volume and finite-difference methods. A fourth-order MUSCL reconstruction technique is used to compute the values at the cell interfaces for use in the local Riemann problems, whilst the bed source and dispersion terms are discretised using centred finite-differences of up to fourth-order accuracy. Numerical results show that the class of extended Boussinesq equations can be accurately solved without the need for a fourth-order time discretisation, thus improving the computational speed of Boussinesq-type numerical models. The numerical scheme has been applied to model a number of standard test cases for the extended Boussinesq equations and comparisons made to physical wave flume experiments.     

A new form of higher order Boussinesq equations

On the basis of the higher order Boussinesq equations derived by the author (1999), a new form of higher order Boussinesq equations is developed through replacing the depth-averaged velocity vector by a new velocity vector in the equations in order to increase the accuracy of the linear dispersion, shoaling property and nonlinear characteristics of the equations. The dispersion of the new equations is accurate to a [4/4] Pade expansion in kh. Compared to the previous higher order Boussinesq equations, the accuracy of quadratic transfer functions is improved and the shoaling property of the equations have higher accuracy from shallow water to deep water.     

强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值模型检验

采用同位网格有限差分法,建立了强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值计算模型。以稳恒波Fourier近似解给定入射波边界条件,对均匀水深深水和浅水域不同非线性的行进波、缓坡地形上深水至浅水域的浅水变形波、以及缓坡和陡坡地形上的波浪水槽实验进行了数值计算,并将计算结果与解析解、解析数值解以及实验值进行了较为详细的比较,从而检验了模型的色散性、非线性以及不同底坡下非线性波的浅水变形性能。     

一个改进的二阶Boussinesq方程模型在线性波浪反射问题中的适用性研究

基于改进型的二阶Boussinesq方程,在交错网络下建立数值模型.利用模型模拟波浪在常水深情况下的传播,波浪反射系数均低于2％.利用该模型模拟波浪在平斜坡前的反射,并将数值结果与解析解进行对比.结果表明,对于相对水深较大情况,坡度较陡时模拟结果明显偏大;对 于相对水深较小情况,坡度超过1:1时,数值结果仍与解析解有....     

适合复杂地形的高阶Boussinesq水波方程

针对海底坡度较大(量阶为O(1))或海底曲率较大的复杂地形,建立了一个新型高阶Boussinesq水波方程.该方程可用于研究海底存在若干相互平行沙坝引起的Bragg反射问题.方程的水平速度沿水深的分布为四次多项式,色散性和变浅作用性能的精度比经典Boussinesq方程高了一阶.方程在浅水水域可以是完全非线性的.     

A nearshore wave breaking model

ＡｎｅａｒｓｈｏｒｅｗａｖｅｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｍｏｄｅｌＬｉＳｈａｏｗｕ,ＷａｎｇＳｈａｎｇｙｉ,ＴｏｍｏｙａＳｈｉｂａｙａｍａ（ＲｅｃｅｉｕｅｄＯｃｔｏｂｅｒ８,１９９６;ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＦｅｂｒｕａｒｙ２６,１９９７）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ－Ａｗａｖｅｂ...     

近岸波浪在刚性植被区域传播的数值模型

基于扩展型Boussinesq水波方程,建立了波浪在刚性植被覆盖的近岸海域传播的数值模型。通过在动量方程源项中引入拖曳阻力项考虑植被对波浪的衰减作用。控制方程采用有限差分和有限体积混合格式求解,模型稳定性强,具备间断捕捉能力,能有效模拟近岸区域波浪的传播变形、破碎和处理海岸动边界问题。利用所建立模型对典型物理模型实验进行模拟,计算结果与实验结果吻合良好,表明模型可用于波浪在刚性植被覆盖海域的数值计算。     

一种近岸区波浪破碎模型

从波浪破碎的能量关系入手,以紊流能量方程为基础,考虑破碎区内单个波在不同破碎阶段所提供的紊动能量强度的变化过程,提出了一种波浪破碎模式.通过将这一模型引入Boussinesq方程中,初步建立了一种近岸区波浪变形数学模型,并用波浪水槽实验资料对模型模拟波高和平均水位的情况进行了初步验证,得到了良好的结果.     

透空式防波堤周围的非线性波浪传播的数值模拟

对非线形波浪在透空式防波堤周围的波浪变形进行了数值模拟,在Boussinesq波浪方程中加入与透空建筑物有关的新的耗散项,从而界定了透空建筑物引起的部分反射和透射,波浪折射衍射的传播过程通过控制方程求解。波浪控制方程通过有限差分方法求解。模型应用于模拟波浪经过具有部分反射的群桩式透空结构,结果表明透空式防波堤可以有效地衰减波浪,是重力式结构的一种替代形式。     

潜堤上破碎波浪传播变形的数值模型及其验证

为模拟潜堤上破碎波浪传播时产生能量的耗散这一特性,在改进的具有四阶色散的Boussinesq水波方程中中入二阶紊动粘性项,建立了考虑波浪破碎的水波数学模型.在非交错网格下建立了有限差分数值模型,并利用三阶Adams-Bash forth格式预报、四阶Adams-Mouton格式校正对数值模型进行求解.通过数值试验,模拟...     

Alternative forms of the higher-order Boussinesq equations: Derivations and validations

An alternative form of the Boussinesq equations is developed, creating a model which is fully nonlinear up to O(μ⁴) (μ is the ratio of water depth to wavelength) and has dispersion accurate to the Padé [4,4] approximation. No limitation is imposed on the bottom slope; the variable distance between free surface and sea bottom is accounted for by a σ-transformation. Two reduced forms of the model are also presented, which simplify O(μ⁴) terms using the assumption ε = O(μ^2/3) (ε is the ratio of wave height to water depth). These can be seen as extensions of Serre's equations, with dispersions given by the Padé [2,2] and Padé [4,4] approximations. The third-order nonlinear characteristics of these three models are discussed using Fourier analysis, and compared to other high-order formulations of the Boussinesq equations. The models are validated against experimental measurements of wave propagation over a submerged breakwater. Finally, the nonlinear evolution of wave groups along a horizontal flume is simulated and compared to experimental data in order to investigate the effects of the amplitude dispersion and the four-wave resonant interaction.     

一种新型二阶全非线性Boussinesq方程及其数值验证

通过改进二阶全非线性 Boussinesq 波浪方程中的色散项,得到了一组没有改变原方程的数学形式但适用于更大变化水深的新方程,其色散性能和变浅性能都比原方程有了很大改进,所适用的水深范围更大,能更好地描述从深水到近岸浅水处的波浪传播;并基于新方程建立了波浪数值模型,通过模拟波浪从浅水到深水的传播变形来验证新方程的有效性.     

Numerical simulation of solitary wave scattering by a circular cylinder array

The interaction of a solitary wave with an array of surface-piercing vertical circular cylinders is investigated numerically. The wave motion is modeled by a set of generalized Boussinesq equations. The governing equations are discretized using a finite element method. The numerical model is validated against the experimental data of solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall and solitary wave scattering by a vertical circular cylinder respectively. The predicted wave surface elevation and the wave forces on the cylinder agree well with the experimental data. The numerical model is then employed to study solitary wave scattering by arrays of two circular cylinders and four circular cylinders respectively. The effect of wave direction on the wave forces and the wave runup on the cylinders is quantified.