Modelling of morphological changes due to coastal structures

Two different concepts are applicable to model the nearshore morphodynamics. The first one takes into account only final consequences of acting mechanisms and is aimed at the prediction of long-term trends in beach development. Another approach implies the modelling of the whole suite of elementary processes responsible for changes in nearshore bottom topography during a given storm, and it is the approach used in the present work. A coastal area model complex is proposed that allows to reproduce the local morphological changes due to both the natural processes and the influence of coastal structures, such as a groin, a detached breakwater and a navigable channel (underwater trough). Consisting of a traditional series of basic components, the model differs from other ones in essential aspects concerning the treatment of transport mechanisms. In particular, the determination of wave-induced near-bed mean flow is based on the hypothesis that the direction and magnitude of bottom drift depend on difference between the actual rate of energy dissipation and its threshold value marking the flow reversal point. This hypothesis is shown to explain a general trend of cross-shore mean flow distributions observed in the nearshore region. Besides, the influence of the wave breaking process on sediment suspension is taken into account and the contribution of the swash zone to total sediment transport is included. Examples of computed morphological response are represented to demonstrate the model capability. A satisfactory agreement of computations with available data is pointed out.     

Numerical modelling of sand beach evolution around coastal structures

I~crIOWIn the coastal area, especially at the sandy seashore, wave and nearshore current are the major factors which affect sediment transPOrt and the motyhChdynamics.The numerical models of predicting the beach evolution can be classified intO the medi~term and long-term models according to their space and time scales (De Briend et al., 1993;Watanabe, 1990; Watanabe et al., 1986; Tao, 1996). In the medium-term model the effects ofwave, nearshore current and sediment transport are conside…     

近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟

针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。     

A 3-D model for ocean waves over a Columb-damping poroelastic seabed

The evaluation of the wave-induced seabed instability in the vicinity of a breakwater is particularly important for coastal and geotechnical engineers involved in the design of coastal structures. In this paper, an analytical solution for three-dimensional short-crested wave-induced seabed instability in a Coulomb-damping porous seabed is derived. The partial wave reflection and self-weight of breakwater are also considered in the new solution. Based on the analytical solution, we examine (1) the wave-induced soil response at different location; (2) the maximum liquefaction and shear failure depth in coarse and fine sand; (3) the effects of reflection coefficients; and (4) the added stresses due to the self-weight of the breakwater.     

Numerical Simulation of the Three-Dimensional Wave-Induced Currents on Unstructured Grid

By coupling the three-dimensional hydrodynamic model with the wave model, numerical simulations of the three-dimensional wave-induced current are carried out in this study. The wave model is based on the numerical solution of the modified wave action equation and eikonal equation, which can describe the wave refraction and diffraction. The hydrodynamic model is driven by the wave-induced radiation stresses and affected by the wave turbulence. The numerical implementation of the module has used the finite-volume schemes on unstructured grid, which provides great flexibility for modeling the waves and currents in the complex actual nearshore, and ensures the conservation of energy propagation. The applicability of the proposed model is evaluated in calculating the cases of wave set-up, longshore currents, undertow on a sloping beach, rip currents and meandering longshore currents on a tri-cuspate beach. The results indicate that it is necessary to introduce the depth-dependent radiation stresses into the numerical simulation of wave-induced currents, and comparisons show that the present model makes better prediction on the wave procedure as well as both horizontal and vertical structures in the wave-induced current field.     

Numerical Simulation of Spatial Lag Between Wave Breaking Point and Location of Maximum Wave-Induced Current

A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point.The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direction.The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress.An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy.The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation.Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach are used to evaluate the model's performance.The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward.     

Storm-induced readjustment of an embayed beach after modification by protection works

This paper examines storm-induced morphological and hydrodynamic changes after a submerged and a detached breakwater were constructed at La Barceloneta beach (Barcelona, NW Mediterranean) in 2006–2007. The shoreline configurations before and after beach nourishment and the construction of the protective structures were compared using a video dataset comprising 29 storm events spanning the pre- (2001 to 2005, n?=?17) and the post-breakwater situation (2006 to 2011, n?=?12), and hydrodynamic modelling based on the SMC coastal modelling system. As a result of the protection works, La Barceloneta was subdivided into two beaches separated by an artificial salient. The analysis of shoreline response to storms has been improved by using the shoreline hyperbolic tangent fit to represent the beach planform. Comparing the pre- and post-breakwater situations on the basis of these shoreline fits facilitated the identification of beach rotation processes because interference by smaller-scale morphological features was eliminated (e.g. the formation, changes in shape or migration of mega-cusps). In the current post-breakwater situation, there is evidence for a change in the behaviour of the north-eastern beach triggered by the submerged breakwater built in 2007. Furthermore, a counter-clockwise beach rotation has occurred at the north-eastern beach, whereas the south-western beach has experienced a clockwise beach rotation. This morphodynamic behaviour is caused by a new, complex wave-induced circulation system comprising two dominant alongshore currents flowing in opposite directions. In contrast to the pre-breakwater situation, the alongshore component of the radiation stress does not accomplish beach rotation in the post-breakwater situation.     

Numerical modelling of wave-induced currents in the presence of coastal structures

The hydrodynamic aspects of the general methodology of calculation of nearshore processes by means of numerical models are described. The paper focuses on the method implemented for calculating combined wave refraction-diffraction and reflection due to coastal structures and the associated radiation stresses.Results of numerical modelling are compared with experimental data obtained by Gourlay in the case of a shore-connected breakwater with periodic waves.A good agreement is found between both methods of investigation as concerns the spatial distribution of wave height and mean water level (wave-induced set-up). A good similarity of the wave-induced eddies in the lee of the structure is observed. A less satisfactory agreement is obtained between the velocity distributions in several profiles normal to the shore, although the overall order of magnitude is the same.A critical review of several wave-breaking criteria and sensitivity tests of the numerical model lead to advocate the use of the CERC criterion, particularly with steep beach slopes.     

Numerical study of wave-induced soil response in a sloping seabed in the vicinity of a breakwater

In this study, a mathematical integrated model is developed to investigate the wave-induced sloping seabed response in the vicinity of breakwater. In the present model, the wave model is based on the Volume-Averaged/Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes (VARANS) equations, while Biot's consolidation equation is used to govern the soil model. The influence of turbulence fluctuations on the mean flow with respect to the complicated interaction between wave, sloping seabed and breakwater are obtained by solving the Volume-Averaged k − ϵ model. Unlike previous investigations, the phase-resolved absolute shear stress is used as the source of accumulation of residual pore pressure, which can link the oscillatory and residual mechanisms simultaneously. Based on the proposed model, parametric studies regarding the effects of wave and soil characteristics as well as bed slopes on the wave-induced soil response in the vicinity of breakwater are investigated. Numerical results indicate that wave-induced seabed instability is more likely to occur in a steep slope in the case of soil with low relative density and low permeability under large wave loadings. It is also found that, the permeability of breakwater significantly affect the potential for liquefaction, especially in the region below the breakwater.     

Response of a porous seabed around breakwater heads

The evaluation of wave-induced pore pressures and effective stresses in a porous seabed near a breakwater head is important for coastal engineers involved in the design of marine structures. Most previous studies have been limited to two-dimensional (2D) or three-dimensional (3D) cases in front of a breakwater. In this study, we focus on the problem near breakwater heads that consists of incident, reflected and diffracted waves. Both wave-induced oscillatory and residual liquefactions will be considered in our new models. The mistake in the previous work [Jeng, D.-S., 1996. Wave-induced liquefaction potential at the tip of a breakwater. Applied Ocean Research 18(5), 229–241] for oscillatory mechanism is corrected, while a new 3D boundary value problem describing residual mechanism is established. A parametric study is conducted to investigate the influences of several wave and soil parameters on wave-induced oscillatory and residual liquefactions around breakwater heads.     

Numerical study on water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water

In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave propagated to a coastal zone from different directions.     

河北省沙质海岸侵蚀灾害和防治对策

河北省沙质海岸是渤海海岸侵蚀灾害最严重的区段之一,海岸侵蚀主要表现于海滩沙粗化,滩肩迅速变窄,滩坡变陡,基岩裸露的比率增多.岸线蚀退率达1.5～3.5m/a,严重制约了海滩旅游事业.整治海难,刻不容缓.采取岸外潜坝和丁坝群等人工建筑物和大量补沙相结合的海滩养护方法应是当前最迫切、最科学和最实际的方法,只有南段沙丘和沙坝-泻湖岸段可采用植树种草的生物学方法护岸.     

Two-dimensional wave-current interaction with a locally enriched quadtree grid system

Wave-induced currents may drive nearshore mixing and transport processes, including coastal pollutant dispersion, littoral drift, and long-term morphological changes through beach erosion and accretion. In this study, a numerical model is newly developed to simulate wave climate and localized currents in complicated coastal environments. The model developed is based on a quadtree grid system. The two-dimensional hydrodynamic governing equations are solved by using an explicit Adams-Bashforth finite difference scheme. Effects of wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, turbulent mixing, bed friction, and shoreline movement are incorporated in the model. Results are presented for set-up at a beach in a flume due to normally incident waves, and longshore currents generated by oblique waves on a plane beach.     

Establishment,validation and discussions of a three dimensional wave-induced current model

A three-dimensional numerical model was established to simulate the wave-induced currents. The depth-varying residual momentum, surface roller, wave horizontal and vertical turbulent mixing effects were incorporated as major driving forces. A surface roller evolution model considering the energy transfer, roller density and bottom slope dissipation was developed. The expression of the wave-induced horizontal turbulent mixing coefficient proposed by Larson and Kraus (1991) was extended to three-dimensional form. Plenty of experimental cases were used to validate the established model covering the wave setup, undertow, longshore currents and rip currents. Validation results showed the model could reasonably describe the main characteristics of different wave-induced current phenomena. The incorporation of surface roller for breaking waves should not be neglected in the modeling of surfzone hydrodynamics. The wave-induced turbulent mixing affects the structures of wave-induced current either in horizontal or in vertical directions. Sensitivity analysis of the major calibration parameters in the established model was made and their ranges were evaluated.     

Experimental and Numerical Study of Wave-Induced Long-Shore Currents on A Mild Slope Beach

1.Introduction Long shorecurrenthasbecomethesubjectofextensiveworldwideresearchformanyyears.The purposeofthestudyistounderstandandpredicttheprocessesofsedimenttransport,shorelineevolu tionandpollutanttransportinthenear shorezoneundertheactionofwaves.Goda(2001)regarded thesuspendedsedimentastheprincipalloadinsedimenttransportandtheeffectoflong shorecurrents wasemphasized.Theeffectofwavesonpollutanttransportwasstudiedbynumericalmodelandfield experiment(TaoandHan,2002;Rodriguezetal.,1995),andth…     

近岸波浪和波生流环境中泥沙输运的数值模拟

Owing to lack of observational data and accurate definition,it is difficult to distinguish the Kuroshio intrusion water from the Pacific Ocean into the South China Sea(SCS).By using a passive tracer to identify the Kuroshio water based on an observation-validated three-dimensional numerical model MITgcm,the spatio-temporal variation of the Kuroshio intrusion water into the SCS has been investigated.Our result shows the Kuroshio intrusion is of distinct seasonal variation in both horizontal and vertical directions.In winter,the intruding Kuroshio water reaches the farthest,almost occupying the area from 18°N to 23°N and 114°E to 121°E,with a small branch flowing towards the Taiwan Strait.The intrusion region of the Kuroshio water decreases with depth gradually.However,in summer,the Kuroshio water is confined to the east of 118°E without any branch reaching the Taiwan Strait;meanwhile the intrusion region of the Kuroshio water increases from the surface to the depth about 205 m,then it decreases with depth.The estimated annual mean of Kuroshio Intrusion Transport(KIT) via the Luzon Strait is westward to the SCS in an amount of –3.86×106 m3/s,which is larger than the annual mean of Luzon Strait Transport(LST) of –3.15×106 m3/s.The KIT above 250 m accounts for 60%–80% of the LST throughout the entire water column.By analyzing interannual variation of the Kuroshio intrusion from the year 2003 to 2012,we find that the Kuroshio branch flowing into the Taiwan Strait is the weaker in winter of La Ni?a years than those in El Ni?o and normal years,which may be attributed to the wind stress curl off the southeast China then.Furthermore,the KIT correlates the Ni?o 3.4 index from 2003 to 2012 with a correlation coefficient of 0.41,which is lower than that of the LST with the Ni?o 3.4 index,i.e.,0.78.     

海滩养护修复过程中拦沙堤的应用

拦沙堤作为海滩养护最常用的辅助工程之一,在全球范围内得到广泛应用。在总结我国海滩养护过程中拦沙堤应用现状的基础上,将拦沙堤的功能分为3类（防泥沙扩散、防沿岸输沙、防浪+防输沙）,并详细分析这3类拦沙堤在我国海滩养护的应用现状和发展规律。基于国内外工程实践,进一步探讨海滩养护中拦沙堤的多项应用创新：组合式拦沙堤设计、拦沙堤平面形态优化、拦沙堤堤群设计、拦沙堤+潜堤组合优化、拦沙堤+旁通输沙/循环养护。最后,展望未来海滩养护中拦沙堤的发展应用趋势（拦沙量的精准调控、丰富多样的形态设计、基于“自然工法”的生态化建设）,并给出了相关建议。