Quasi-three-dimensional modelling of the morphology of longshore bars

A morphological quasi-three-dimensional (Q3D) area model for barred coasts has been developed. The model combines a two-dimensional depth integrated model for wave-driven currents with a model for undertow circulation currents. The combined model makes a simultaneous simulation of the bar-forming processes associated with the undertow and the horizontal wave-driven circulation currents, which may cause instabilities of the bar and the formation of rip channels. Situations with normal and oblique wave incidence are considered. Compared to the depth integrated approach the Q3D model produces less pronounced alongshore irregularities for obliquely incident waves. For normal incident waves the Q3D model produces a crescentic bar while the depth integrated model predicts almost straight sections of the bar interrupted by rip channels. The sensitivity to variation of wave angle and beach slope is further investigated.     

An Analytical Solution for Nearshore Circulation Driven by Focused/Defocused Waves

An offshore shoal or bar refracts ocean surface waves and causes wave focusing/defocusing on the adjacent beach.Wave focal patterns characterized by alongshore variations in wave height, wave angle, and breaking location induce alongshore non-uniformities of wave setup and nearshore circulation, e.g., rip currents and alongshore currents, in the surfzone. A simplified analytic model for nearshore circulation generated by focused/defocused waves on a planar beach is developed and theoretical solutions are obtained using transport stream function and perturbations in alongshore distributions of wave height and wave angle at the breaker line. The analytic model suggests that alongshore currents are strongly affected by a pair of counter-rotating vortices generated shoreward of the wave focal zone. The vortices are persistent, and their strengths depend on the amplitudes of alongshore variations in wave height and wave angle. The alongshore gradient in wave height tends to intensify the vortices while the convergence of wave angle tends to weaken the vortices. Divergent flows associated with the vortices in the surfzone are intense,strengthening alongshore currents in the downstream of the wave focal zone and weakening alongshore currents or causing flows reversal in the upstream. Alongshore currents are modulated by rip currents associated with the wave focusing/defocusing patterns.     

Rip currents under obliquely incident wind waves and tidal longshore currents

A field experiment on the nature of rip currents was conducted on the Dutch coast, which differs from previous rip current study sites because it is a wind-sea dominated environment with mostly obliquely incident waves and tidally-driven longshore currents. During the experiment three distinct flow patterns, obtained with GPS tracked drifter instruments, were observed: (1) a locally governed circulation cell, (2) an offshore current that is deflected shore parallel outside the surf zone and (3) a meandering longshore current. The transition from rip currents (flow patterns 1 and 2) to meandering longshore currents (flow pattern 3) occurred gradually within the tidal cycle with longshore currents prevalent at mid to high tide. Rip currents at this site appeared at depressions in the surf zone bar and typically occurred when the water level fell below NAP (equivalent to MSL), even in the presence of obliquely incident waves and tidally driven longshore currents. Hindcast simulations of the drifter experiments were performed with the numerical model XBeach and showed good agreement with field observations. The model was subsequently used to investigate the influence of tidal water level fluctuations, longshore currents and obliquely incident waves on rip currents.Rip currents were initiated when the water level dropped below a specific threshold with the magnitude of the rip current associated with the water level. The strength of the tidal current and its orientation with respect to the incident waves governed the offshore extent and orientation of the rip current. In contrast to other studies that suggest that rip currents solely occur under shore normal (or slightly oblique waves), in this study both observations and numerical model simulations indicate that rip currents can exist under large angles of wave incidence, when the rip channel is sufficiently wide and the wave height is small.     

Comparing a quasi-3D to a full 3D nearshore circulation model: SHORECIRC and ROMS

Predictions of nearshore and surf zone processes are important for determining coastal circulation, impacts of storms, navigation, and recreational safety. Numerical modeling of these systems facilitates advancements in our understanding of coastal changes and can provide predictive capabilities for resource managers. There exists many nearshore coastal circulation models, however they are mostly limited or typically only applied as depth integrated models. SHORECIRC is an established surf zone circulation model that is quasi-3D to allow the effect of the variability in the vertical structure of the currents while maintaining the computational advantage of a 2DH model. Here we compare SHORECIRC to ROMS, a fully 3D ocean circulation model which now includes a three dimensional formulation for the wave-driven flows. We compare the models with three different test applications for: (i) spectral waves approaching a plane beach with an oblique angle of incidence; (ii) monochromatic waves driving longshore currents in a laboratory basin; and (iii) monochromatic waves on a barred beach with rip channels in a laboratory basin. Results identify that the models are very similar for the depth integrated flows and qualitatively consistent for the vertically varying components. The differences are primarily the result of the vertically varying radiation stress utilized by ROMS and the utilization of long wave theory for the radiation stress formulation in vertical varying momentum balance by SHORECIRC. The quasi-3D model is faster, however the applicability of the fully 3D model allows it to extend over a broader range of processes, temporal, and spatial scales.     

Wave setup and setdown generated by obliquely incident waves

An analytical theory is developed for the wave setup and setdown induced by obliquely incident waves on an impermeable swell-built beach profile. The wave setup and setdown are found to decrease as wave obliquity increases. The incorporation of wave obliquity in wave setup and setdown formulation offers the physical reality in engineering applications. The general solutions presented in this paper yield the limiting case of normal wave incidence and the result is consistent with the classical theories published. The present theory is primarily applicable to the spilling and plunging breaker across the surf zone, within which wave amplitude is assumed to be linearly related to the local water depth. Experiments were conducted in a large-scale wave basin to compare with theoretical results and especially to investigate the applicability of this assumption to the case of obliquely incident waves. The dimensionless setup versus the distance offshore within the surf zone is found to depend on wave breaking angle and the shape of the beach profile; and it has a non-zero value at the original shoreline position. This implies that the original shoreline will advance landwards, and that the extent of this movement can be related to wave angle at breaking and the beach profile under consideration. The results of the present theory are in good agreement with experimental data and field measurements available.     

Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes

Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.

The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp.     

Observations of surfzone alongshore pressure gradients onshore of an ebb-tidal delta

The relative importance of radiation stress gradients and alongshore pressure gradients to surfzone dynamics is investigated using observations of water levels, waves, and flows measured onshore of a large ebb-tidal delta. Incident wave heights measured along the ~ 11-m depth contour varied about 10% over a 1.2-km alongshore transect, resulting in alongshore wave setup differences on the order of 10 cm over the 600-m extent of the surfzone instrument array in 1.5-m depth. Despite the moderate alongshore variability in wave heights, the southerly alongshore pressure gradient, associated with the alongshore variability of wave-driven set-up, was typically twice as large as the northerly radiation stress gradient forcing, consistent with the observed southerly currents during the week-long experiment. The magnitude of the alongshore forcing and resulting alongshore velocity is reproduced by the two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical model of Shi et al. (JGR-Oceans, 2011). These observations, together with the numerical results, indicate that moderate alongshore wave height gradients (O(10^− 4)) outside the surfzone owing to alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry can result in alongshore pressure gradients that are larger than radiation stress gradients.     

On low-frequency waves in the surf and swash

Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash zones on various beach slopes are discussed using numerical simulations. Simulated surface elevations of both primary waves and low-frequency waves across the surf zone were first compared with experimental data and good agreement found. Low-frequency wave characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and their relationship to the primary wave field on a series of sea bottom slopes. Unlike primary waves, low-frequency wave energy increases towards the shoreline. Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash are a function of incident waves and the sea bottom slope and hence the saturation level of the surf zone. Wave energy on a gently sloping beach is dominated by low-frequency waves while primary waves play a significant role on a steep beach. Low-frequency wave radiation from the surf zone on a given beach depends on primary wave frequency and beach slope. However, a very poor correlation was found between surf similarity parameter and low-frequency wave radiation.     

基于XBeach模型的深圳金沙湾裂流的数值模拟

金沙湾是粤港澳大湾区重要的滨海旅游景点之一,深受世界各地游客的青睐.利用XBeach模型模拟金沙湾海滩的近岸环流,研究了不同模拟波况下裂流的发生情况.结果表明,金沙湾产生裂流很大程度上受到波高和地形的影响,在年平均有效波高波况下,金沙湾沿岸无明显裂流,当入射波高超过某个阈值后,沿岸裂流风险提高.裂流的强度和离岸距离与入...     

Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part II: surf beat and swash oscillations for wave groups and irregular waves

This is the second of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In the first paper the general model was described and it was applied to study cross-shore motion of regular waves in the surf zone. In this paper, part II, we consider the cross-shore motion of wave groups and irregular waves with emphasis on shoaling, breaking and runup as well as the generation of surf beats. These phenomena are investigated numerically by using a time-domain Boussinesq type model, which resolves the primary wave motion as well as the long waves. As compared with the classical Boussinesq equations, the equations adopted here allow for improved linear dispersion characteristics and wave breaking is modelled by using a roller concept for spilling breakers. The swash zone is included by incorporating a moving shoreline boundary condition and radiation of short and long period waves from the offshore boundary is allowed by the use of absorbing sponge layers. Mutual interaction between short waves and long waves is inherent in the model. This allows, for example, for a general exchange of energy between triads rather than a simple one-way forcing of bound waves and for a substantial modification of bore celerities in the swash zone due to the presence of long waves. The model study is based mainly on incident bichromatic wave groups considering a range of mean frequencies, group frequencies, modulation rates, sea bed slopes and surf similarity parameters. Additionally, two cases of incident irregular waves are studied. The model results presented include transformation of surface elevations during shoaling, breaking and runup and the resulting shoreline oscillations. The low frequency motion induced by the primary-wave groups is determined at the shoreline and outside the surf zone by low-pass filtering and subsequent division into incident bound and free components and reflected free components. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments from the literature and the agreement is generally found to be very good. Finally the paper includes special details from the breaker model: time and space trajectories of surface rollers revealing the breakpoint oscillation and the speed of bores; envelopes of low-pass filtered radiation stress and surface elevation; sensitivity of surf beat to group frequency, modulation rate and bottom slope is investigated. Part III of this work (Sørensen et al., 1998) presents nearshore circulations induced by the breaking of unidirectional and multi-directional waves.     

Non-hydrostatic modeling of surf zone wave dynamics

Non-hydrostatic models such as Surface WAves till SHore (SWASH) resolve many of the relevant physics in coastal wave propagation such as dispersion, shoaling, refraction, dissipation and nonlinearity. However, for efficiency, they assume a single-valued surface and therefore do not resolve some aspects of breaking waves such as wave overturning, turbulence generation, and air entrainment. To study the ability of such models to represent nonlinear wave dynamics and statistics in a dissipative surf zone, we compare simulations with SWASH to flume observations of random, unidirectional waves, incident on a 1:30 planar beach. The experimental data includes a wide variation in the incident wave fields, so that model performance can be studied over a large range of wave conditions. Our results show that, without specific calibration, the model accurately predicts second-order bulk parameters such as wave height and period, the details of the spectral evolution, and higher-order statistics, such as skewness and asymmetry of the waves. Monte Carlo simulations show that the model can capture the principal features of the wave probability density function in the surf zone, and that the spectral distribution of dissipation in SWASH is proportional to the frequency squared, which is consistent with observations reported by earlier studies. These results show that relatively efficient non-hydrostatic models such as SWASH can be successfully used to parametrize surf zone wave processes.     

Morphodynamics of a bar-trough surf zone

A field study was made of the distinguishing morphodynamic processes operating in a surf zone which perennially exhibits accentuated bar-trough topography (the “longshore-bar-trough” and “rhytmic-bar-and-beach” states as described by Wright and Short, 1984). Characteristic features of the morphology include a shallow bar with a steep shoreward face, a deep trough, and a steep beach face. This morphology, which is favored by moderate breaker heights and small tidal ranges, strongly controls the coupled suite of hydrodynamic processes. In contrast to fully dissipative surf zones, the bar-trough surf zone is not at all saturated and oscillations at incident wave frequency remain dominant from the break point to the subaerial beach. The degree of incident wave groupiness does not change appreciably across the surf zone. Infragravity standing waves which, in dissipative surf zones, dominate the inshore energy, remain energetically secondary and occur at higher frequencies in the bar trough surf zone. Analyses of the field data combined with numerical simulations of leaky mode and edge wave nodal—antinodal positions over observed surf-zone profiles, indicate that the frequencies which prevail are favored by the resonant condition of antinodes over the bar and nodes in the trough. Standing waves which would have nodes over the bar are suppressed. Sediment resuspension in the surf zone appears to be largely attributable to the incident waves which are the main source of bed shear stress. In addition, the extra near-bottom eddy viscosity provided by the reformed, non-breaking waves traversing the trough significantly affects the vertical velocity profile of the longshore current. Whereas the bar is highly mobile in terms of onshore—offshore migration rates, the beach face and inner regions of the trough are remarkably stable over time.     

Non-hydrostatic modelling of regular wave transformation and current circulation in an idealized reef-lagoon-channel system

The wave-induced setup and circulation in a two dimensional horizontal (2DH) reef-lagoon-channel system is investigated by a non-hydrostatic model. The simulated results agree well with observations from the laboratory experiments, revealing that the model is valid in simulating wave transformation and currents over reefs. The effects of incident wave height, period, and reef flat water depth on the mean sea level and wave-driven currents are examined. Results show that the distributions of mean sea level and current velocities on the reef flat adjacent to the channel vary significantly from those in the area close to the side walls. From the wave averaged current field, an obvious alongshore flux flowing from the reef flat to the channel is captured. The flux from the reef flat composes the second source of the offshore rip current, while the first source is from the lagoon. A detailed momentum balance analysis shows that the alongshore current is mainly induced by the pressure gradient between the reef flat and the channel. In the lagoon, the momentum balances are between the pressure and radiation stress gradient, which drives flow towards the channel. Along the channel, the offshore current is mainly driven by the pressure gradient.     

On Radiation Boundary Conditions and Wave Transformation Across the Surf Zone

The purpose of this paper is to extend the validity of Li's parabolic model (1994) by incorporating a combined energy factor in the mild-slope equation and by improving the traditional radiation boundary conditions. With wave breaking and energy dissipation expressed in a direct form in the equation, the proposed model could provide an efficient numerical scheme and accurate predictions of wave transformation across the surf zone. The radiation boundary conditions are iterated in the model without use of approximations. The numerical predictions for wave height distributions across the surf zone are compared with experimental data over typical beach profiles. In addition, tests of waves scattering around a circular pile show that the proposed model could also provide reasonable improvement on the radiation boundary conditions for large incident angles of waves.     

离岸流灾害水动力学过程的数值模拟研究

离岸流是近岸流的重要组成部分,当波浪受到特殊海滩地形的影响,会形成一股沿着离岸方向运动的高速水流,能够迅速将人带离海岸,对海滨安全造成威胁。为了深入探究离岸流的形成机理及水动力学特性,本文基于二阶Stokes波浪理论,采用了更为光滑的变截面沙坝模型,通过流体体积法捕捉自由液面,对离岸流进行三维数值模拟探究。本文重点分析了离岸流产生时流场的瞬时速度、时均速度、压强等不同参量的分布规律,结果显示在沙坝和海岸线之间,有一对方向相反的水循环体系;对比不同流层离岸流的速度,了解到波浪与离岸流的耦合作用;并探究了入射波波高对离岸流强度及分布区域的影响,深化了对离岸流水动力学过程的认识。     

A wave-resolving model for nearshore suspended sediment transport

This paper presents a wave-resolving sediment transport model, which is capable of simulating sediment suspension in the field-scale surf zone. The surf zone hydrodynamics is modeled by the non-hydrostatic model NHWAVE (Ma et al., 2012). The turbulent flow and suspended sediment are simulated in a coupled manner. Three effects of suspended sediment on turbulent flow field are considered: (1) baroclinic forcing effect; (2) turbulence damping effect and (3) bottom boundary layer effect. Through the validation with the laboratory measurements of suspended sediment under nonbreaking skewed waves and surfzone breaking waves, we demonstrate that the model can reasonably predict wave-averaged sediment profiles. The model is then utilized to simulate a rip current field experiment (RCEX) and nearshore suspended sediment transport. The offshore sediment transport by rip currents is captured by the model. The effects of suspended sediment on self-suspension are also investigated. The turbulence damping and bottom boundary layer effects are significant on sediment suspension. The suspended sediment creates a stably stratified water column, damping fluid turbulence and reducing turbulent diffusivity. The suspension of sediment also produces a stably stratified bottom boundary layer. Thus, the drag coefficient and bottom shear stress are reduced, causing less sediment pickup from the bottom. The cross-shore suspended sediment flux is analyzed as well. The mean Eulerian suspended sediment flux is shoreward outside the surf zone, while it is seaward in the surf zone.     

An empirical model for infragravity swash on barred beaches

Idealized computational simulations with the nearshore model XBeach were carried out for a series of barred beach configurations in order to quantify the impact of nearshore bars on infragravity swash. Results show that nearshore bar systems reduce infragravity swash energy at the shoreline. The amount of swash reduction was found to correlate with both bar depth and rip width, when a rip channel is present. In order to develop a generalized empirical model for significant infragravity swash for barred beaches, the simulations were used to extend the empirical swash model of Stockdon et al. (2006) to include bar characteristics. The developed empirical model relates significant infragravity swash to incident wave conditions and nearshore bar depth. With respect to Stockdon et al. (2006), this new model improves predictive skill by reducing root-mean-square error by 50% for the computational simulations and by 15% when applied to a range of field data.     

A morphological stability analysis for a long straight barred coast

A morphological stability analysis is carried out for a long straight coast with a longshore bar. The situation with oblique wave incidence and a wave-driven longshore current is considered. The flow and sediment transport are described by a numerical modelling system. The models comprise: (i) a wave model with depth refraction, shoaling and wave breaking, (ii) a depth integrated model for wave driven currents and (iii) a sediment transport model for the bed load transport and the suspended load transport in combined waves and current. The direction of the sediment transport is taken to be parallel to the depth integrated mean current velocity, neglecting the effects of a bed slope and secondary currents. An instability is found to develop around the bar crest. The instability is periodic in the alongshore direction, and tends to form rip channels and to steepen the offshore face of the bar between the rip channels. The alongshore wave length of the most unstable perturbation is determined for different combinations of the wave conditions and the geometry of the profile.     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence characteristics in narrow-band irregular breaking waves

Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope.     

华南休闲海滩沙坝触发的裂流风险及特征研究

为应对频发的致命性海滩溺水事故,自然资源部开展了我国首次滨海旅游区裂流灾害技术调查,在华南地区发现大量滨海休闲海滩存在浅滩沙坝和裂流现象。作为全国调查的部分成果,本文应用多种方法研究了广东省3个热门海滩沙坝触发的裂流机理、特征和演变规律。地形动力计算和卫星影像显示了沙坝形态、岸线形状以及裂流的高度动态性,尤其在青澳湾裂流呈现非常规的反季节变化,冬季风险较高而夏季风险较低。在相位解析水动力数值模拟中,裂流表现出对沙坝形态、浪高、浪向的高度敏感性。沙坝间较宽间隙会产生尺寸较大的裂流区,但比起窄沟槽不一定伴随更强的流速。当大部分水流集中从邻近的较宽通道回流入海时,部分窄沟槽几乎没有裂流产生。裂流流速与浪高成正比与入射角成反比。数值模拟结果表明,当入射角达到10°～30°时,沿岸流会取代离岸流占主导地位。现场调查也验证了在低潮时,较浅的水深会放大水流和波浪的地形效应,导致裂流风险加剧。本文研究结果可为滨海旅游区裂流灾害的工程减缓措施和公共警示提供有益参考。未来将会持续开展针对特定岸线的长期观测,以为裂流预警报和风险管控积累足够的统计数据。