Effect of bed roughness on turbulent boundary layer and net sediment transport under asymmetric waves

This paper presents an investigation of the roughness effects in the turbulent boundary layer for asymmetric waves by using the baseline (BSL) k–ω model. This model is validated by a set of the experimental data with different wave non-linearity index, N_i (namely, N_i = 0.67, N_i = 0.60 and N_i = 0.58). It is further used to simulate asymmetric wave velocity flows with several values of the roughness parameter (a_m/k_s) which increase gradually, namely from a_m/k_s = 35 to a_m/k_s = 963. The effect of the roughness tends to increase the turbulent kinetic energy and to decrease the mean velocity distribution in the inner boundary layer, whereas in the outer boundary layer, the roughness alters the turbulent kinetic energy and the mean velocity distribution is relatively unaffected. A new simple calculation method of bottom shear stress based on incorporating velocity and acceleration terms is proposed and applied into the calculation of the rate of bed-load transport induced by asymmetric waves. And further, the effect of bed roughness on the bottom shear stress and bed-load sediment transport under asymmetric waves is examined with the turbulent model, the newly proposed method, and the existing calculation method. It is found that the higher roughness elements increase the magnitude of bottom shear stress along a wave cycle and consequently, the potential net sediment transport rate. Moreover, the wave non-linearity also shows a big impact on the bottom shear stress and the net sediment transport.     

Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes

Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.

The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp.     

Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups

New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/w_sT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/w_sT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/w_sT, promoting erosion.     

Determination and control of longshore sediment transport: A case study

The fishery harbor of Karaburun coastal village is located at the south west coast of the Black Sea. The significant waves coming from north eastern direction cause considerable rate of sediment transport along 4 km sandy beach towards the fishery harbor in the region. The resulting sediment deposition near and inside the harbor entrance prevents the boat traffic and cause a vital problem for the harbor operations. In order to determine the level and reasons of the sediment transport, the long-term observations of shoreline changes, the long-term statistical analysis of wind and wave characteristics in the region, and sediment properties have been performed. The data obtained from observations, measurements and analysis were discussed. The long-term statistics of deep water significant wave heights for each direction was discussed by comparing the results obtained from different data sources and methods. For shoreline evolution, the numerical study using one-line model was applied to describe the shoreline changes with respect to probable wave conditions. Initial shoreline was obtained from the digitized image in 1996 since there was no previous shoreline measurement of the site. The results were compared using the techniques of remote sensing obtained from sequent images using IKONOS and IRS1C/D satellites.     

Modelling of sand transport under wave-generated sheet flows with a RANS diffusion model

A 1DV-RANS diffusion model is used to study sand transport processes in oscillatory flat-bed/sheet flow conditions. The central aim is the verification of the model with laboratory data and to identify processes controlling the magnitude and direction (‘onshore’/‘offshore’) of the net time-averaged sand transport. The model is verified with a large series of measured net sand transport rates, as collected in different wave tunnels for a range of wave-current conditions and grain sizes. Although not all sheet flow details are represented in the 1DV-model, it is shown that the model is able to give a correct representation of the observed trends in the data with respect to the influence of the velocity, wave period and grain diameter. Also detailed mean sediment flux profiles in the sheet flow layer are well reproduced by the model, including the direction change from ‘onshore’ to ‘offshore’ due to a difference in grain size from 0.34 mm (medium sand) to 0.13 mm (fine sand). A model sensitivity study with a selected series of net transport data shows that the stirring height of the suspended sediment ε_s/w_s strongly controls the magnitude and direction of the net sediment transport. Inclusion of both hindered settling and density stratification appears to be necessary to correctly represent the sand fluxes for waves alone and for waves + a superimposed current. The best agreement with a large dataset of net transport measurements is obtained with the 1DV-RANS model in its original settings using a Prandtl–Schmidt number σ_ρ = 0.5.     

Formation of beach cusps in a wave tank

Beach cusps with a longshore spacing of 20 to 150 cm have been built by the continuous action of incident waves on a steep laboratory beach floor covered uniformly with a thin bed of glass beads. Breaking of incident waves was observed to induce vortices on the bed by interacting with swash motion along the beach face. Beach cusps formed when the value of a dimensionless parameter H_b/sgT_i² became smaller than 0.042; H_b is the breaking height of the incident waves, T_i their period, s the beach slope and g the acceleration due to gravity. This critical value occurred at a nearly central part of the generation region 0.003 < H_b/sgT_i² < 0.068 for plunging breakers presented by Galvin (1968). Breaking-wave-induced vortices rather than breaker types controlled the movement of bed material in the nearshore zone. Most of the measured spacings of beach cusps, including previous observations, were in good agreement with half a wavelength of the zero-mode subharmonic edge wave, which is generated on the beach by the refraction of incident waves and has twice the period of the waves. The role of edge waves at each stage of cusp formation still remains as an important problem to be clarified.     

A relationship to describe the cumulative impact of storm clusters on beach erosion

Estimation of erosion volumes for adequate dry beach buffer zones is commonly estimated on the basis of a single extreme event, such as the 1 in 100 year storm. However, the cumulative impact of several smaller, closely spaced storms can lead to equal, if not more, dry beach loss, but this is often not quantified. Here we use a calibrated model for dune erosion, XBeach, to hindcast the cumulative erosion impact of a series of historical storms that impacted the Gold Coast, Queensland region in 1967. Over a 6-month period, four named cyclones (Dinah, Barbara, Elaine, and Glenda) and three East Coast Lows caused a cumulative erosion volume greater than the predicted 1 in 100 year event. Results presented here show that XBeach was capable of reproducing the measured dry beach erosion volume to within 21% and shoreline retreat to within 10%. The storms were then run in 17 different sequences to determine if sequencing influenced final modeled erosion volumes. It is shown that storm sequencing did not significantly affect the total eroded volumes. However, individual storm volumes were influenced by the antecedent state of the beach (i.e. prior cumulative erosion). Power-law relationships between cumulative energy density (∑ E) and eroded volume (∆V) as well as cumulative wave power ((∑ P)) and eroded volume (∆V) both explained more than 94% of the modeled dry beach erosion for the 1967 storm sequences. When the relationship was compared with observed and modeled erosion volumes for similar beaches but different storm forcing, the inclusion of pre-storm beach swash slope (β_swash) in the parameterization was found to increase the applicability of the power-law relationship over a broader range of conditions.     

工程养护海滩对"803"风暴潮的响应过程研究

研究养护海滩对风暴潮的响应过程在人工养滩工程设计与施工中具有重要意义。老龙头养护海滩在竣工半个月后遭遇“803”风暴潮,导致岸滩滩肩最大蚀退 6.5 m,沙坝坝顶最大下蚀 1.2 m。在现场测量的基础上,利用 XBeach 建立风暴潮过程 的老龙头海滩海床演变模型,研究结果表明： （1） XBeach 模拟结果与实际地形变化侵淤趋势一致,风暴潮期间人工沙坝均向岸移动,但模拟结果的侵蚀程度更大,海滩响应更加剧烈; （2） 强浪条件下人工沙坝的透射系数为 0.29~0.42,常浪条件下透射系数为 0.45~0.95,因而人工沙坝在大浪条件下掩护作用更佳; （3） 风暴潮期间人工沙坝附近破波显著,坝顶流速明显增大,最大可达 1.21 m/s,是无人工沙坝情况下的 2.3 倍,而在人工沙坝向岸侧,因波能提前耗散,流速减为 0.28 m/s,是无人工沙坝时的 0.4 倍,且没有产生离岸流。老龙头养护工程整体泥沙损失较少,易于恢复.     

The effect of temporal wave averaging on the performance of an empirical shoreline evolution model

The effect of using time-averaged wave statistics in a simple empirical model for shoreline change is investigated. The model was first calibrated with a six-year time series of hourly wave conditions and weekly shoreline position at the Gold Coast, Australia. The model was then recalibrated with the hourly waves averaged over intervals up to 1 year. With wave averaging up to 2 days, model performance was approximately constant (squared correlation r² ~ 0.61–0.62), with only small changes in the values of empirical model parameters (e.g. the beach response coefficient c varied by less than 4%). With between 2 and 40 day averaging, individual storms are not resolved; model skill decreased only modestly (r² ~ 0.55), but c varied erratically by up to 40% of the original value. That is, optimal model coefficients depend on wave averaging, an undesirable result. With increased averaging (> 40 days) seasonal variability in the wave field is not resolved well and model skill declined markedly. Thus, temporal averaging of wave conditions increases numerical efficiency, but over-averaging degrades model performance and distorts best-fit values of model free parameters.     

Sea-level, sediment supply and coastal changes: Examples from the coast of Ireland

Sediment supply and pre-existing shoreline morphology are crucial factors in controlling coastal changes due to sea-level rise. Using examples from both southeast and northeast Ireland, it can be shown that sea-level change may trigger a sequence of events which leads to both static and dynamic shoreline equilibrium. Cliff erosion and longshore sediment movement in east Co. Wexford has led to injection of sediment onto the shelf, and the growth, under both wave and tide regimes, of linear offshore shoals. These shoals now control the pattern of shoreline erosion and provide a template for possible stepwise evolution of the coast under any future sea-level rise. In contrast, the nearby coast of south Co. Wexford comprises a series of coarse clastic barriers moving monotonously onshore, via overwash processes. Here the behavior of the barrier is conditioned by the antecedent morphology of both the beach face and stream outlet bedforms. Finally, the rock platform coast of Co. Antrim presents a far more resistant shoreline to incident marine processes, yet even here there is strong evidence of present process control over so-called ‘raised’ platforms and embayments. It is concluded that coastal sediment supply and dynamics, together with coastal morphology and its interaction with waves, present a far more complex variety of sea-level indicators than is normally acknowledged.     

Field observations on hydrodynamic and coastal geomorphic processes off Harilaid Peninsula (Baltic Sea) in winter and spring 2006–2007

Investigations of multi-layer current regime, variations in sea level and wave parameters using a bottom-mounted RDCP (Recording Doppler Current Profiler) during 20 December 2006–23 May 2007 were integrated with surveys on changes of shorelines and contours of beach ridges at nearby Harilaid Peninsula (Saaremaa Island). A W-storm with a maximum average wind speed of 23 m s⁻¹ occurred on 14–15 January with an accompanying sea level rise of at least 100 cm and a significant wave height of 3.2 m at the 14 m deep RDCP mooring site. It appeared that in practically tideless Estonian coastal waters, Doppler-based “vertical velocity” measurements reflect mainly site-dependent equilibrium between resuspension and sedimentation. The mooring site, 1.5 km off the Kelba Spit of Harilaid, was located in the accumulation zone, where downward fluxes dominated and fine sand settled. As a result of storms in January and April, the distal part of the accumulative gravel spit advanced by 50 m, whereas a 30–50 m retreat of the shoreline in the western and northern parts occurred at Cape Kiipsaare. The location of the beach ridges shows that the development of the spit occurs through relatively short-period but infrequent storm events, roughly 2–3 times each decade.     

Experimental study of unidirectional irregular wave slamming on the three-dimensional structure in the splash zone

The experimental investigation of unidirectional random wave slamming on the three-dimensional structure in the splash zone is presented. The experiment is conducted in the marine environment channel in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology. The test wave is unidirectional irregular wave. The experiments are carried out with perpendicular random waves (β=0°) and oblique random waves (β=15°, 30°, 45°), the significant wave heights H_1/3 ranging from 7.5 to 20 cm with 2.5 cm increment, the peak wave periods T_p ranging from 0.75 to 2.0 s with 0.25 s increment, and the clearance of the model with respect to the significant wave height s/H_1/3 ranging from 0.0 to 0.5 with 0.1 increment. The statistical analysis results of different test cases are presented. The statistical distribution characteristics of the perpendicular irregular wave impact pressures are compared with that of the oblique irregular wave on the underside of the structure. The effect of the wave direction β on the wave impact forces on the underside of the structure is determined. The relation between the impact forces and the parameters such as the significant wave height, the relative structure width and the relative clearance of the structure is also discussed.     

Shoreline response to a single shore-parallel submerged breakwater

Submerged breakwaters (SBWs) are becoming a popular option for coastal protection, mainly due to their low aesthetic impact on the natural environment. However, SBWs have rarely been employed for coastal protection in the past and therefore, their efficacy remains largely unknown. The main objective of the present study was to investigate the structural and environmental conditions that govern the mode of shoreline response (i.e shoreline erosion vs shoreline accretion) to SBWs. The relative importance of the key structural and environmental parameters governing the response mode to a single shore parallel SBW is investigated through a combination of theoretical analysis and numerical modelling. Using physical considerations, a theoretical response-function model is derived under several simplifying assumptions including parallel depth contours, linear wave theory, shore normal waves, and no wave–current interaction. Numerical modelling is undertaken with the Mike21 model suite to simulate the depth averaged velocity fields (without morphological updating) due to waves acting on a single shore-parallel SBW located on a schematised beach with parallel depth contours. In total 92 coupled wave–current simulations were undertaken. The results indicate that the mode of shoreline response to the SBW can be expressed in terms of the two non-dimensional parameters h_B/H₀ and (s_B/h_B)^3/2(L_B/h_B)²(A³/h_B)^1/2 (variables defined in the text).     

Swash zone sediment fluxes: Field observations

This paper describes newly obtained, high-frequency observations of beach face morphological change over numerous tidal cycles on a macrotidal sandy beach made using a large array of ultrasonic altimeters. These measurements enable the net cross-shore sediment fluxes associated with many thousands of individual swash events to be quantified. It is revealed that regardless of the direction of net morphological change on a tidal time scale, measured net fluxes per event are essentially normally distributed, with nearly equal numbers of onshore and offshore-directed events. The majority of swash events cause net cross-shore sediment fluxes smaller than ± 50 kg m^− 1 and the mean sediment flux per swash event is only O(± 1 kg m^− 1) leading to limited overall morphological change. However, much larger events which deposit or remove hundreds of kilograms of sand per meter width of beach occur at irregular intervals throughout the course of a tide. It was found that swash–swash interactions tend to increase the transport potential of a swash event and the majority of the swash events that cause these larger values of sediment flux include one or more interactions. The majority of the larger sediment fluxes were therefore measured in the lower swash zone, close to the surf/swash boundary where swash–swash interactions are most common. Despite the existence of individual swash events that can cause fluxes of sediment that are comparable to those observed on a tidal time scale, frequent reversals in transport direction act to limit net transport such that the beach face volume remains in a state of dynamic equilibrium and does not rapidly erode or accrete.     

Wave driven alongshore sediment transport and stability of the Dutch coastline

The wave-driven alongshore sediment transport is commonly supposed to smooth out the irregularities on the coastline. However, it has been shown that waves approaching the coast with a high angle with respect the shore-normal can reverse that tendency and cause the rectilinear coast to be unstable [Ashton, A., Murray, A.B., Arnault, O., 2001. Formation of coastline features by large-scale instabilities induced by high-angle waves. Nature 414, 296–300; Falqués, A., Calvete, D., 2005. Large scale dynamics of sandy coastlines. Diffusivity and instability. J. Geophys. Res. 110, doi:10.1029/2004JC002587]. The extended one-line coastline model presented in the latter paper is here applied to investigate the stability of the Dutch coast. The main aim is testing the hypothesis that the shoreline sand waves observed along this coast could be generated by such an instability. It is found that the Dutch coast has potential for instability. This is most prominent on the Holland coast, followed by the Delta coast and is very weak on the Wadden coast. Whether the instability actually occurs or not depends on the cross-shore bathymetric profile of the shoreline waves. Under the sensible assumption that the bathymetric perturbation is just a shift of the equilibrium beach profile, the Dutch coast is stable. In this case, the mean annual coastline diffusivity is evaluated and it is found to be typically about 0.010–0.015 m² s^− 1, that is, roughly smaller by a factor 2 than that predicted by the traditional one-line model. However, the Dutch coast may be unstable with respect to coastline waves with a maximum bathymetric signal at a few hundred meters from the coast. This is shown in one case where the shoals associated with the sand wave are inside the surf zone during moderate storm waves. Thus the sand waves could result from the cross-shore redistribution of the sand associated with an alongshore series of shoals and bed depressions generated by the alongshore transport in the surf zone. While the generation or not of such shoreline waves by this instability strongly depends on their profile, its propagation once they have been created is less sensitive and is well reproduced by the present model. It is explained why the propagation is to the NE along the Delta and Wadden coasts, why it is faster on the latter and why on the Holland coast there is no clear propagation direction.     

An experimental study on geometric characteristics of beach erosion profiles

The beach profile and sediment transport are very important factors in the design of coastal structures, and the beach profile is mainly affected by a number of parameters, such as wave height and period, beach slope, and the material properties of the bed. In this study, considering wave height (H₀=6.5, 11.5, 16, 20, 23, 26 and 30 cm), wave period (T=1.46 and 2.03 s), beach slope (m=1/10 and 1/15) and mean sediment diameter (d₅₀=0.18, 0.26, 0.33 and 0.40 mm), an experimental investigation of coastal erosion profile (storm profile) was carried out in a wave flume using regular waves, and geometric characteristics of erosion profile were determined by the resultant erosion profile. Dimensional and non-dimensional equations were obtained by using linear and non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and were compared with previously developed equations in the literature. The results have shown that the experimental data fitted well to the proposed equations with respect to the previously developed equations.     

Trade-wind waves and mud dynamics on the French Guiana coast,South America: Input from ERA-40 wave data and field investigations

The South American coast between Brazil and Venezuela is affected by longshore migrating mud banks derived from the fine-grained Amazon sediment discharge. Onshore mud migration prevails over shallow ‘bank’ areas alternating alongshore with deeper ‘inter-bank’ areas. The transport on the inner shelf, and attachment to the shoreline, of this migrating mud has been attributed mainly to wind waves. However, the lack of in situ data on waves hampers understanding of the relationship between waves and mud dynamics. A 44-yr record (1960–2004) of the ERA-40 wave dataset generated by the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) was used, in conjunction with field investigations in French Guiana, to define both event-scale and longer-term patterns of mud mobilisation induced by waves. The ratio H₀³ / T², combining wave height H and period T, and the angle of wave incidence α, were singled out as the most relevant parameters for describing wave forcing. Typical ‘bank’ and ‘inter-bank’ profiles and corresponding mud densities, and a 3-month record of changes in the thickness of the fluid mud layer in an estuarine navigation channel were monitored by echo-sounding from October 2002 to January 2003. An 80-day record of bed-level changes in the intertidal zone was obtained from August to November 2004 using a pressure transducer. The results on the wave regime of French Guiana confirm a distinctly seasonal pattern, and highlight an increase in H₀³ / T² over the 44-yr period related to an increase in trade-wind velocities determined from corresponding trends in Atlantic wind pseudo-stress off the South American coast. Wave forcing over bank areas leads to the liquefaction of a 1–3 m-thick layer of mud that is transported onshore (and alongshore by the longshore component of wave energy). The episodic nature of high wave energy events generally results in the formation of mud bar features from the shoreward mobilisation of gel-like fluid mud. The effect of waves on mud is particularly marked following long periods of low energy, and especially at the onset of the high wave energy season (October to May), when even moderate wave energy events can lead to significant mobilisation of mud.Significant phases of increased wave energy are attended by higher long-term (annual) rates of longshore mud bank migration but the correlation is rather poor between the wave forcing parameter H₀³ / T² and migration rates because stronger wave forcing is generally associated with low angles of wave incidence. This suggests a complementary role of other hydrodynamic mechanisms, such as geostrophic and tidal currents, in longshore mud bank migration.     

Variability of wave-induced ripple migration in wave-flume experiments and its implications for sediment transport

A thorough discussion of results from laboratory experiments with regular waves sheds light on the gap that lies between the sediment transport associated with ripple migration and the performance of a standard bedload transport formula in terms of bed shear concept. It is found that the extent of deviations of the bedload transport formula by Ribberink (1998) from the measured rate of sediment transport associated with ripple migration becomes systematically apparent under conditions of increasing settling time factor Ω_s (= η/(w₀T); η is the ripple height, w₀ the settling velocity and T the wave period). Re-examination of previous two field studies demonstrates a further reinforcement for phase-lag argument addressed in this paper.     

The measurement of sand transport in two inlets of Venice lagoon,Italy

Sand transport in Lido and Chioggia inlets was measured using modified Helley–Smith sand traps equipped with 60-micron nets. The traps had an efficiency of about 4% only but provided enough material for analysis. Very fine sand (0.07 < d < 0.11 mm) only was collected in the traps. Transport of sand was greatest in the bottom 10% of the water column and followed a Rouse profile. Sand extended to a height of about 4 m above the bed during peak flows corresponding to the estimated thickness of the boundary layer; and observed in synoptic ADCP profiles. The sand in the benthic boundary layer was largely inorganic (>95%); above this layer, organic content varied widely and was greatest near the surface. The movability number Ws/U_∗$W_s/U_{\ast }$ showed a linear relationship to dimensionless grain diameter (D_*): (Ws/U_∗)=(D_∗/10)$\left(W_s/U_{\ast }\right)=\left(D_{\ast }/10\right)$; D_* < 10. Sand concentration in suspension was simulated by a mean Rouse parameter of −2.01 ± 0.66 (Lido inlet) and −0.82 ± 0.27 (Chioggia inlet). The β parameter ( Hill et al., 1988) was correlated with D_* and movability number in the form: β=2.07−2.03D_∗+59(Ws/U_∗)²$\beta =2.07-2.03D_{\ast }+59{\left(W_s/U_{\ast }\right)}^2$ (r² = 0.42). Von Karman's constant was back-calculated from a Law of the Wall relationship as a test on the accuracy of U_* estimates; a mean value of 0.37 ± 0.1 (compared to the accepted value of 0.41) suggest U_* was accurate to within 10%. The constant of proportionality (γ = 3.54 × 10⁻⁴) between reference concentration (C_a) and normalized excess bed shear stress was in line with the published literature.     

A simple equilibrium model for predicting shoreline change

This contribution describes the development, calibration and verification of a 1-D behaviour-orientated shoreline prediction model. The model primarily encapsulates shoreline displacement forced by wave-driven cross-shore sediment transport. Hysteresis effects are shown to be important and are included in the model, whereby present shoreline change is influenced by past hydro-/morpho-dynamic conditions. The potential magnitude of shoreline change increases with incident wave power and the degree of disequilibrium. The latter disequilibrium term (Ω_eq − Ω) is expressed in terms of the time-evolving equilibrium (Ω_eq) and instantaneous (Ω) dimensionless fall velocities and dictates the direction of shoreline movement. Following Wright et al. (1985) the equilibrium fall velocity is defined as a function of the weighted antecedent conditions and is a proxy for the evolving beach state. The decay rate of the weighting function used to compute Ω_eq is a model free parameter determined by calibration against measured data, which physically reflects the degree of observed ‘memory’ of the system. The decay in amplitude of this weighting function with time is controlled by a ‘memory decay’ term (ϕ), where the weighting reaches 10%, 1% and 0.1% at ϕ, 2ϕ and 3ϕ days prior to the current calculation time. The model is applied to two multi-year (6 + years) data sets incorporating hourly wave and weekly shoreline measurements, from two contrasting energetic sites in SE Australia. The first is the relatively dissipative, straight Gold Coast (QLD) and the second is a more intermediate embayed beach at Narrabeen (NSW). The model shows significant skill at hindcasting shoreline change at both sites, predicting approximately 60% of the total shoreline variability. The Gold Coast shoreline is dominated by a strong seasonal signal. Conversely, at the Narrabeen embayment, shoreline variability (and morphology) is more dynamic, responding at storm frequency. Evidence suggests that there is a strong coherence between the shoreline position and morphodynamic state and that both have response times characterised by ϕ. It is hypothesised that optimised ϕ values in the shoreline model physically relate to the efficiency of sediment exchanges between the shoreface and offshore bars and the prevalence of one- or two-dimensional horizontal circulation. The general success of this new shoreline model for hindcasting the observed shoreline behaviour at two distinctly different open-coast sites suggests that this approach may be suitable for broader application.