Quantification of dune dynamics during a tidal cycle in an inlet channel of the Danish Wadden Sea

High-resolution swath bathymetry measurements at centimetre-scale precision conducted during a tidal cycle in the Grådyb tidal inlet channel in the Danish Wadden Sea reveal the short-term dynamics of a large, ebb-directed compound dune with superimposed small to medium dunes, all composed of medium sand. Dune dynamics were related to simultaneous measurements of flow using an acoustic Doppler current profiler. Spatially, dune crests displayed greater mobility than did dune troughs, due to higher flow velocities at the crests than in the troughs. Temporally, superimposed lower lee-side dunes migrated more during the flood than the ebb tide, due to higher near-bed trough flow velocities during the flood phase, resulting in varying exposure to flow. Net dune migration was flood-directed over the tidal cycle, despite annual net migration being ebb-directed. Hence, extrapolation of short-term migration rates is not possible in this case. The superimposed dunes reversed direction during each half tidal cycle whereas the compound dune only developed a flood cap during flood tide, i.e. the time required for complete reversal of the compound dune was much longer than that available in a half tidal cycle. Over the tidal cycle, the bed level was stable but significant erosion and accretion occurred during the tidal phases. During the ebb tide, bed material was brought into suspension with accelerating flow and settled with decelerating flow, resulting in an average erosion and accretion of the bed of ~7 cm in each case. During the flood tide, the bed of the compound dune was overall stable, although bed material was eroded from the exposed lower lee side, being partly transported to the crest in bedload and partly brought into suspension. In general, dune height fluctuated during the tidal cycle whereas dune length remained stable. The height of the compound dune responded to changes in water depth, which acts as a limiting factor to dune growth. By contrast, the height of the stoss-side dunes responded to flow velocity, i.e. the stoss-side dunes were water depth-independent.     

越南红河水下三角洲北区表层沉积物类型及分布特征初探

对2007年采自越南红河水下三角洲北区24个表层沉积物样品进行了粒度分析和粒度参数计算,初步探讨了该区沉积物的主要类型及分布特征。结果表明,越南红河水下三角洲北区的表层沉积物主要由粉砂组成(体积平均含量为54.35%),平均粒径为6φ。按Link沉积物命名法,该区沉积物主要类型有砂、砂质粉砂和黏土质粉砂。水平分布上,由西部的砂向东逐渐变为黏土质粉砂,呈现出由近岸三角洲前缘相的粗粒级沉积物逐渐向前三角洲-浅海相的细粒级沉积物变化的趋势。与前人研究成果对比发现,红河水下三角洲北区沉积物黏土的比例较1996年的比例明显增大,可能与海岸线近10a来总体上呈向陆迁移、水下三角洲沉积向岸蚀退以及纵向上水动力逐渐变弱有关。     

Sources and fate of manganese in a tidal basin of the German Wadden Sea

Dissolved and particulate Mn concentrations were investigated on a seasonal scale in surface waters of the NW German Wadden Sea (Spiekeroog Island) in 2002 and 2003. As the Wadden Sea forms the transition zone between the terrestrial and marine realms, Mn was analysed in coastal freshwater tributaries and in the adjoining German Bight as well. Additionally, sediments and porewaters of the tidal flat sediments were analysed for Mn partitioning and microbial activity.Dissolved Mn concentrations show strong tidal and seasonal variation with elevated concentrations during summer at low tide. Summer values in the Wadden Sea (av. 0.7 μM) are distinctly higher than in the central areas of the German Bight (av. 0.02 μM), suggesting a possible impact of the Wadden Sea environment on the Mn budget of the North Sea. Seasonality is also observed for particulate Mn in the Wadden Sea (winter av. 800 mg kg^− 1; summer av. 1360 mg kg^− 1). Although particles are relatively Mn-poor during winter, the high SPM load during this season causes elevated excess concentrations of particulate Mn, which in part exceed those of the dissolved phase. Therefore, winter values cannot be ignored in balance calculations for the Wadden Sea system.Porewater Mn concentrations differ depending on sediment type and season. Maximum concentrations are found in surface sediments at a mixed flat site (190 μM) during summer, while winter values are distinctly lower. This indicates that enhanced microbial activity owing to higher temperature during summer leads to increased reduction of Mn-oxides in surface sediments and enhances the corresponding diffusive and advective Mn flux across the sediment-water interface. Draining of Mn-rich porewaters from sediments is also documented by analyses of tidal creek waters, which are highly enriched in Mn during summer.Furthermore, an important Mn source is freshwater discharged into the Wadden Sea via a flood-gate. The concentration of dissolved Mn in freshwater was highly variable during the sampling campaigns in 2002 and 2003, averaging 4 μM. In contrast, particulate Mn displayed a seasonal behaviour with increasing contents during summer. On the basis of salinity variations in the Wadden Sea, the total amount of Mn contributed to the Wadden Sea via freshwater was estimated. This balance shows the importance of the freshwater environment for the Mn inventory of the Wadden Sea. During winter the total Mn inventory of the Wadden Sea water column may be explained almost completely by freshwater discharge, whereas in summer the porewater system forms the dominating source.     

The effect of bedforms (crest and trough systems) on sediment erodibility on a back-barrier tidal flat of the East Frisian Wadden Sea, Germany

The erosion potential over bedforms in a tidal flat of the East Frisian Wadden Sea was studied by conducting erosion and physical and biological sediment property measurements on the crests and troughs of bedforms. Five stations along a cross-shore transect of 1.5 km length from immediately below the salt marsh to the mid tide-level of the tidal flat were visited during two field campaigns in June and September 2002. Measurements of sediment erodibility were made on both crests and troughs using an EROMES erosion device and quantified in terms of critical erosion shear stress and erosion rate. Surface sediment scrape samples (upper 1 mm layer) were taken from crests and troughs to determine various physical and biological properties of the sediment. The results show that crests are generally more stable (i.e. higher critical erosion shear stresses and lower erosion rates) than troughs. In general, crests contained more chlorophyll a, colloidal carbohydrate, and EPS (extracellular polymeric substance) than troughs. Median grain-size, water content and wet bulk density of the crests showed no statistically significant difference from those of the troughs with the exception at the most landward station immediately below the salt marsh margin, where crests had significantly lower water content and higher wet bulk density than troughs.Two different processes were identified for the difference in erodibility between crests and troughs: (1) At stations with emersion times less than 6 h, the higher benthic diatom biomass (measured as chlorophyll a concentration) on the crests increases the amount of EPS, which is likely to stabilize the sediment surface of these features; (2) in a saltmarsh transition area (most landward station), physical processes such as surface drying and compaction seem to enhance in a synergistic way the sediment stability on the crests.     

Modelling an anthropogenic effect of a tidal basin evolution applying tidal and wave boundary forcings: Ley Bay,East Frisian Wadden Sea

Potential physical impacts of an anthropogenic effect on a tidal basin evolution are investigated applying the Delft3D model suite under both tidal and wave boundary forcings. Study area is based on a peninsula construction of the Ley Bay in the East Frisian Wadden Sea. Model simulation spans from 1975 to 1990 in two stages of which the second stage begins with the implemented peninsula on the 1984 predicted morphology. The model bed consists of initially distributed three sediment fractions. Sensitivity of the Ley Bay evolution is analysed under three different sediment transport formulations: 1) Van Rijn, 1993 (VR93), 2) Soulsby, 1997 (SVR) and 3) Van Rijn et al., 2004 (VR04).Offshore tides and waves are transformed up to the model boundaries via a nested modelling approach and a statistically derived highly schematised wave climate is adopted in the simulations. Predicted morphologies indicate lower agreement with the measured morphology due to including very sparse data. Despite this discrepancy, they reproduce the major changes in the Ley Bay caused by the peninsula construction while each formula results in a slightly different channel/shoal pattern. Predicted evolution under the SVR shows the strongest sediment exporting system and therefore the lowest agreement with the 1990 measured morphology. Both VR93 and VR04 formulas resulted in marginal exporting systems and more or less similar morphologies. In fact, only the VR04 prediction indicates a fair agreement with the 1990 data. Temporal evolution under the VR04 shows concentrated velocity patterns at the bay entrance and in the eastward bay channel resulting in the development of this channel and sedimentation in the southern part of the bay as found in the data.     

Modeling interrelationships between morphological evolution and grain-size trends in back-barrier tidal basins of the East Frisian Wadden Sea

In terms of grain size, surficial sediment distribution patterns in back-barrier tidal basins (e.g., the East Frisian Wadden Sea, Germany) often show a landward fining trend from the sea boundary to the mainland shore. In addition to the cross-shore patterns, there are lateral grain-size trends toward the watersheds of the basins and toward the watersheds of tidal flats bordered by tidal channels on either side. In the present study, interrelationships between morphological evolution and grain-size trends in the back-barrier tidal basins of the East Frisian Wadden Sea were simulated for a period of 60 years by a process-based forward modeling approach using the Delft3D system. The model outputs show that grain size displays a shoreward fining trend within the basin area, which is consistent with in situ observations; such a trend can be interpreted by the shoreward decrease in the cross-shore maximum velocity. Moreover, the model predicts lateral grain-size trends similar to those observed in the tidal basins: coarser sediment remains in the inlets and channels, while finer sediment settles at the tidal watersheds and on the tidal flats between channels. The spatial patterns of tidal flat sediment grain size within the tidal basins are thus related to the distance from the sea boundary and from the tidal channels. The modeling exercise also indicates that the development of the grain-size pattern observed in the East Frisian Wadden Sea is accomplished within a few decades, and that the time periods required to reach equilibrium are much shorter for grain size than for bed elevation. Evidently, spatial grain-size information can be used to assess sediment transport and morphological adaptation processes as, for example, attempted in sediment trend analysis procedures.     

菲律宾海钱洲深海峡谷沉积物中元素的地球化学特征

作者研究了钱洲深海峡谷柱状沉积物中常量元素和微量元素的垂直分布及它们的相关关系。研究表明,大多数化学元素随岩芯深度的垂直分布变化不大,且元素明显的分为两组：Ca,Sr组和Al,Fe,Ti,Mg,Ni,V,Co,Li,Rb组,该区的物质来源为多源的,即生物来源、陆源和火山源。     

南黄海表层沉积物粒度特征季节变化及其影响因素

通过对南黄海春季和秋季27个相同站位表层沉积物的粒度分析,并结合水文观测资料,研究了南黄海表层沉积物粒度的季节变化,参考文献资料初步讨论了粒度变化的影响因素。研究结果显示,按照Folk分类,南黄海表层沉积物可以分为粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂、粉砂和泥四种类型。秋季与春季相比,总体上砂和粉砂的含量增加,黏土含量降低,相应地平均粒径相对变粗,分选系数和峰态的变化较小,而偏态表现为更加正偏。季节性变化还表现出明显的区域差异,主要是受环流系统、河流来沙及波浪的季节性变化的影响。     

Nearshore sediment characteristics and formation of mudbanks along the Kerala coast,southwest India

In order to gain insight into the formation dynamics of mudbanks off the Kerala coast of India, extensive surveying of the nearshore bathymetry along with sediment characterization was undertaken. The textural and geotechnical properties of the surficial sediments of a mudbank were determined during pre-monsoon, monsoon, and post-monsoon periods. The mudbank sediments were clayey silts with high water and organic carbon contents, high Atterberg limits, and low bulk density, and therefore very susceptible to entrainment. During the monsoon, the mudbank regime was characterised by enhanced turbidity and a benthic fluff layer, triggered by the increasing swell of the early monsoon period. Re-suspension exposed a more consolidated, previously sub-bottom, layer which exhibited lower water content and greater shear strength than the pre-monsoon seabed. Texturally, the monsoon seabed was similar to the pre-monsoon seabed, with the same modal grain size, but the proportions of sand and coarse silt increased nearshore, while the proportions of fine and very fine silt increased offshore. There was a seaward-fining textural gradient at all times, but this became pronounced during the monsoon period. Paradoxically, the monsoonal seabed displayed greatly reduced wet bulk density. It is hypothesized that this was due to the presence of gas, probably methane, in the sediments (while the pre-monsoon sediments were fully saturated, the monsoon sediments were only 83% saturated). We speculate that the gas was forced into the surficial sediments either by wave pumping (at the onset of the monsoon) or by seaward-flowing subbottom freshwater (derived from monsoonal rains). With the waning of the monsoon, the benthic fluid mud layer rapidly disappeared and the seabed returned to its pre-monsoon state as suspended sediments were redeposited. The mudbank regime is therefore essentially an in situ phenomenon. It is suggested that the mudbanks are palimpsest, marshy, lagoonal deposits, rich in organic matter and derived gas, that were submerged after a marine transgression. The surficial sediment is annually entrained during the monsoon, but erosion is limited by the formation of the benthic fluid mud layer, which attenuates wave generated turbulence. Although some fine sediment disperses alongshore and offshore, most is returned to the seabed as the monsoon declines.     

近期长江河口南汇南滩水域水沙变化特征

基于南汇南滩水域2011年12月和2012年6月洪、枯季大潮的现场水文观测资料及2003年2月枯季大潮、2004年9月洪季大潮的历史观测资料,分析潮流历时、流速、优势流和含沙量等水沙现状和变化特征,探讨近年来该水域水沙变化的主要影响因素。结果表明:(1)目前,南汇南滩水域洪季大潮落潮流占主导优势,枯季大潮涨潮流占主导优势;(2)东海大桥及其周边促淤围垦工程后,洪季大潮落潮优势增强,涨潮垂线平均含沙量减少,落潮垂线平均含沙量增多;枯季大潮落潮优势减弱,涨、落潮垂线平均含沙量均减少;(3)近岸工程建设是南汇南滩水域洪季落潮优势增强、枯季落潮优势减弱的主要影响因素;涨、落潮垂线平均含沙量的变化主要与工程建设、流域来沙量减少、近岸沙体变迁等作用有关。可为河口河槽治理提供理论依据。     

河口潮滩地貌和沉积物对人类工程的响应特征

河口潮滩受径潮流的共同作用,在自然环境与人类活动的影响下处于不断的动态调整中,其中大型人类工程往往对其短期地貌变化和沉积物特征产生巨大影响。2013年底至2014年5月,长江口崇明东滩北部开展大规模互花米草治理工程,本文基于地面三维激光扫描技术、植被点云数据滤除算法、沉积物取样以及室内粒度分析等手段,对比了工程前后潮滩地貌与沉积物特征。研究发现:（1）完工后研究区域靠海及南侧区域出现明显冲刷,北侧虽出现淤积,但整个区域平均冲刷幅度仍达4 cm;（2）工程前研究区域沉积物平均中值粒径为29 μm,工程完工后沉积物平均中值粒径则增大到38 μm;（3）工程完工后沉积物靠海及南侧区域明显粗化,北侧沉积物则变细。结果表明,围垦工程会造成邻近潮滩大幅冲刷以及表层沉积物粗化,但潮滩不同区域地貌和沉积物特征对工程的响应仍存在空间差异性。研究揭示尽管河口潮滩长期演变过程受流域来沙条件影响,但围垦工程等局部影响因素会短期内显著改变潮滩动力地貌过程。     

Spatial and temporal variations in sediment grain size in tidal wetlands, Yangtze Delta: On the role of physical and biotic controls

To examine the spatial and temporal variability of sediment grain size in exposed tidal wetlands with ample sediment supply, we sampled sediments and measured hydrodynamics, accretion/erosion rates, and vegetation characteristics in the Yangtze Delta. Sediment grain size exhibited a landward/upward decreasing trend. This trend is mainly attributed to attenuation of hydrodynamics. A 630-day series of daily surface sediment sampling at a fixed site on an unvegetated intertidal flat revealed significant seasonal and storm-cyclic changes in grain size. This temporal variability was related to alternating accretion/erosion events, with erosion associated with coarser grain size. Such temporal dynamics were not present in vegetation, where sediment remained fine grained throughout the year. In the marsh, vegetation cover enables the trapping of fine-grained sediments in the following ways: (a) adherence of suspended sediments onto plants; (b) deposition of suspended sediments stimulated by attenuation of hydrodynamics through plant obstruction; and (c) prevention of resuspension of fine-grained deposits due to the protection of the plant canopy. The influence of vegetation on sediment grain size was clearly seen when comparing sediment trapped by different vegetation types and seasonal patterns of trapped sediment on different vegetation canopy densities. The relatively high plant biomass of the recently introduced Spartina alterniflora enhanced the trapping effect, whereas plant degradation due to buffalo grazing reduced the trapping effect. We conclude that for exposed tidal wetlands with ample sediment supply such as the Yangtze Delta, the spatial and temporal variability of sediment grain size is governed predominantly by physical controls on the unvegetated flat and predominantly by biophysical interaction of hydrodynamics and vegetation in the salt marsh, rather than by sediment supply.     

南海混合层深度的季节和年际变化特征

利用1871-2008年SODA资料和月平均的Levitus资料计算了南海混合层深度(MLD)的季节及年际变化特征.资料分析表明:季风通过流场调整对南海MLD的时空分布特征有显著的影响.南海MLD的距平变化总体上呈上升趋势,南海南部MLD的距平变化趋势和北部的有显著差异,特别在1955年后北部整体呈下降趋势而南部呈上升趋势,二者的显著周期北部为2-3年,南部与整个区域平均的基本相似有2-6年的显著周期.SOI指数对滞后的南海各个区域有较好的相关性.EOF分析表明第一模态整体呈单极型最大变率分布在南海南部,由南往北逐渐减小显著周期2-3年变化为主;第二模态呈偶极子型,显著周期以2-5年变化为主.回归分析表明南海南部深水区域呈现增深的趋势,而吕宋海峡至南海北部陆架区呈变浅趋势,滑动t检验表明南海MLD有6个显著的突变年份.     

黑石岛附近海域地形地貌及表层沉积物分布特征分析

黑石岛附近海域位于山东威海黑泥湾东部,沉积环境复杂多变,多种因素控制表层沉积物分布,形成多种发育演化模式。利用单波束测深系统、浅地层剖面系统、表层沉积物取样、海流观测和实验室沉积物粒度测试、资料综合解释等方法,于2021年9—11月对研究海域开展综合地质环境调查。通过调查数据分析研究区水深地形特征、浅地层结构特征以及表层沉积物分布特征,并从多个角度揭示该海域沉积物分布特征的控制因素和成因。研究发现：目标海域水深介于3～24 m,平均水深约14 m,西部浅、东部深,存在陡坡,随着水深的增加坡度逐渐变缓,地貌类型主要以水下侵蚀岸坡为主;海底浅地层声学反射界面清晰,可全局跟踪,淤积厚度为0.5～2 m,沉积层厚度东西存在差异但相对稳定;表层沉积物类型多样,大致围绕黑石岛呈环带状分布,离岛方向上依次为粉砂、砾石、泥质砾;自西向东表层沉积物粒度逐渐减小,分选性变好。研究区表层沉积物分布受区域地形地貌和水动力条件的共同影响。     

厄尔尼诺和台风共同影响下的7月份黄、东海海温变化

基于历史海温数据和台风路径数据,研究了厄尔尼诺/拉尼娜（El Niño/La Niña）背景下7月份中国近海海温变化特征。结果表明:7月黄、东海海温异常与El Niño/La Niña有显著相关关系,OISST和GODAS海温数据与Niño3指数同步相关系数分别为-0.32和-0.45。El Niño年7月,黄、东海海表温度异常低于-0.5℃的概率超过60%;La Niña年7月,黄海海温异常高于0.5℃的概率约有60%;正常年7月,海温异常的空间分布与El Niño年相反,但量值偏低。El Niño年7月,中国近海及邻近区域大气异常能够给局地带来更多降水;同时,受El Niño背景场的影响,入侵黄、东海的台风强度更强、影响时间更长。大尺度的降水和台风活动的影响是导致黄、东海海温异常降低的重要原因。因此,分析和预测7月份中国近海海温异常,在充分考虑El Niño/La Niña背景场的基础上,需要结合局地的大尺度降水和台风的影响同时分析,这为特定背景下结合不同时间尺度上的因素共同分析中国近海海温变化提供了一种思路。     

湛江湾海域表层沉积物粒度特征及沉积环境

根据湛江湾海域2020年10月采集的61个表层沉积物样品粒度分析结果,对沉积物粒度参数进行了总结,划分了沉积物类型,结合Pejrup三角图解对湛江湾海域沉积动力环境进行了分区,运用Gao-Collins粒径趋势分析模型,探讨了沉积物运移趋势。结果表明,湛江湾海域表层沉积物类型共有5种,其中砂、粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂分布最广,粒度组成以细砂为主,平均粒径均值为3.93Φ,分选较差,粒度分布曲线以正偏、正态分布为主。沉积动力判别图解揭示湛江湾海域沉积水动力较强,整体表现为湾内比湾外弱、湾外向外海方向逐渐减弱的特征。粒径趋势分析反映出湛江湾内整体向南部潮流深槽方向运移,湾外围绕沉积中心整体呈逆时针方向运移。湛江湾海域表层沉积物的运移和分布主要受泥沙来源及潮流、波浪、沿岸流等沉积动力环境的共同作用,近年来,人类活动的影响愈加明显。     

南海中北部表层沉积物的矿物沉积

本文研究了南海中北部500多个样品的矿物学。认为,本区表层沉积物中矿物种类繁多,分布较为普遍,碎屑矿物(含火山物质)、粘土矿物、自生矿物常有出现。以前者为最显著(共60多种,其中重矿物50多种,轻矿物近10种),主要分布于陆架区及深海盆;粘土矿物次之,多分布于陆坡～深海盆;自生矿物较少,陆架～深海盆均有分布。文中根据矿物沉积特征和环境差异,把它划分为6个矿物区。     

东山乌礁湾海滩表层沉积物粒度时空变化分析

为了进一步了解海岛岬湾海岸表层沉积物粒度的时空分布特征和形成机制,作者以福建东山岛乌礁湾为典型研究区,通过秋、春、夏3个不同季节海滩表层沉积物的采集和点位测量,综合应用激光法和筛析法进行粒度测定。结果表明,东山乌礁湾海滩表层沉积物以0.16～0.50 mm之间的中、细砂为主,并含有少量的粗砂和细砾,这与区域砂质沉积背景有关;湾内从南到北剖面沉积物粒径由粗砂到细砂逐渐变细,主要受剖面地形、局地物源、季节性风浪作用和近岸往复水动力的影响。时间变化上,各取样站位表现出沉积物粒径粗、细不同程度的多种变化趋势,以秋季为参考,整体上表现为由南到北粒级的变小、增大和稳定,这与东北、南南西季风影响下的浪、潮作用以及沿岸流系格局变化下的水动力环境有关。     

Impact of the winter cooling on the variability of the thermohaline characteristics of the active layer in the Black Sea

The influence of the winter atmospheric forcing on the interannual variability of the Black Sea’s active layer’s thermohaline structure during 1982–2008 is investigated. The results are based on the combined analysis of the hydrological measurements from a ship, satellite measurements of the sea’s surface temperature (SST), and the NCEP/NCAR reanalysis data for the surface air temperature (SAT). A high correlation between the variability of the winter mean SST/SAT and the thermohaline characteristics of the active layer during the following warm season was found. It is shown that the winter atmospheric forcing significantly affects the variability of the temperature, salinity, and density down to the 150–200 m depth, and this has to be considered in the analysis of the interannual and long-term variability of the Black Sea’s active layer.     

Sea level variations along the south coast of Japan and the large meander in the Kuroshio

Sea level variations from 1974 through 1976 at 9 stations on the south coast of Japan (from west to east, Aburatsu, Tosa-shimizu, Muroto-misaki, Kushimoto, Uragami, Owase, Toba, Maisaka and Omaezaki) were analysed in relation to the large meander in the Kuroshio. From May to July in 1975, a small maximum in sea level variation was observed at every station west of Cape Shionomisaki from Aburatsu to Kushimoto. It propagated eastward along with the eastward propagation of a small meander in the Kuroshio until it reached Kushimoto, when the sea levels at Uragami and Owase started to rise sharply. This remarkable rise appeared at all stations in August when a large meander in the Kuroshio was established. The mean sea level at the stations east of Cape Shionomisaki from Uragami to Omaezaki rose by about 10 cm. The difference in sea level variations between the regions east and west of Cape Shionomisaki, which had been present before the rise, disappeared. A similar characteristic of sea level variation was also found in the generation stage of the large meander in 1959. The sea level variations along the south coast of Japan indicate that, prior to the generation of the large meander, the small meander in the Kuroshio was generated southeast of Kyushu and propagated eastward and that, just when this meander reached off Cape Shionomisaki, a large scale oceanic event covering over the whole region of the south coast of Japan occurred. This large scale event seems to be one of the necessary conditions for the generation of the large meander in the Kuroshio off Enshû-nada.