Statistical Distribution of Depth-Integrated Local Horizontal Momentum for Second-Order Random Ocean Waves in Finite Water Depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in tinite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth-integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all detemained by the water depth and the wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind-generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.     

Second-Order Wave Diffraction Around 3-D Bodies by A Time-Domain Method

A time-domain method is applied to simulate nonlinear wave diffraction around a surface piercing 3-D arbitrary body. The method involves the application of Taylor series expansions and the use of perturbation procedure to establish the corresponding boundary value problems with respect to a time-independent fluid domain. A boundary element method based on B-spline expansion is used to calculate the wave field at each time step, and the free surface boundary condition is satisfied to the second order of wave steepness by a numerical integration in time. An artificial damping layer is adopted on the free surface for the removal of wave reflection from the outer boundary. As an illustration, the method is used to compute the second-order wave forces and run-up on a surface-piercing circular cylinder. The present method is found to be accurate, computationally efficient, and numerically stable.     

Wave Breaker Indices in Finite Water Depth

Based on the analysis and comparison of wave breaker indices defined by geometric, kinetic as well as dynamic stabilities and verified by observation, the value a, which is equal to H / Lthkd by Miche's result and may be modified by Goda's results, is" suggested as the wave breaking criteria. The applicable values of a for pure waves or wave-current co-existing field are given in this paper. They are smaller than Miche's result (0.142), and they have been verified by model tests.     

Wave Uplift Forces on the Bottom of a Circular Cylinder

The analysis of the data of model tests of two large deep wharves and monographic experimental studies show that two aspects are to be improved so as to predict the wave uplift forces on the bottom of a circular cylinder. The first aspect is the uplift pressure distribution on the bottom, and the second is the correct determination of the phase for maximum horizontal wave forces. The second problem has been solved. Synthesizing the results of theoretical analysis and experiments, we suggest a diagram for the determination of the phase when the maximum horizontal wave force appears. On the basis-ef the diagram the simultaneous wave uplift forces can be obtained for the structural stability analysis.     

Analytical Research on Wave Diffraction on Arc-Shaped Bottom-Mounted Perforated Breakwaters

An analytical method is developed to study wave diffraction on arc-shaped and bottom-mounted perforated breakwaters.The breakwater is assumed to be rigid,thin,vertical,immovable and located in water of constant depth.The fluid domain is divided into two regions by imaginary interface.The velocity potential in each region is expanded by eigenfunctions.By satisfying the continuity of pressure and normal velocity across the imaginary fluid interface,a set of linear algebraic equations can be obtained to determine the unknown coefficients of eigenfunctions.Numerical results,in the form of contour maps of the relative wave amplitude around the breakwater,are presented for a range of wave and breakwater parameters.Results show that the wave diffraction on the arc-shaped and bottom-mounted perforated breakwater is related to the incident wavelength and the porosity of the breakwater.The porosity of the perforated breakwater may have great effect on the diffracted field.     

冰区四季通用灯浮标的二阶波浪力计算

冰区四季通用灯浮标是一种为满足北方冬季冰冻港口一年四季的助航服务需求研制的新型灯浮标,二阶波浪力对其漂浮姿态和漂移运动有较大影响。文中研究了浮标受到的二阶波浪力的数值计算方法,计算了不同流速下罐形和锥形灯浮标的二阶波浪力。研究结果显示,罐形和锥形灯浮标受到的一阶波浪力相差不大,罐形的二阶波浪力明显小于锥形,具有一定的外形优势。     

有限水深二维绕射问题的二阶速度势和水动力

本文给出有限水深二维物体二阶绕射势在外域中的解析表达式，从而准确满足二阶绕射势的辐射条件。二阶绕射势在内域自由表面上的边界条件则由一阶势的数值微分求得。然后对内域用简单Ｇｒｅｅｎ函数法求得二阶绕射势。本文对二维浮体和潜体在不同水深和潜深情况下的绕射问题进行了计算，求得了二阶绕射势和二阶定常及倍频波浪力。讨论了水深和潜深对波浪力的影响以及二阶绕射势对非线性波浪力的贡献     

Numerical Study of Wave Diffraction Effect Introduced in the SWAN Model

New version of SWAN model includes the wave diffraction effect which is the main improvement compared with the previous versions.Experimental data collected in the wave basin of the University of Delaware were used to test its performance.Wave heights were compared in the four cases(with different wave energies and directional spreading spectra).The results agreed well with the measurements,especially for the broad directional spectra cases.The effect of wave diffraction was analyzed by switching on/off the corresponding term.By introducing the diffraction term,the distributions of wave height and wave direction were smoothed,especially obvious for the narrow spectrum cases.Compared with the calculations without diffraction,the model with diffraction effect gave better results.     

四柱结构波浪绕射模型试验研究

张力腿平台的支撑结构由四根直立圆柱构成,四根支撑圆柱周围波面高度的计算对张力腿平台结构安全以及气隙设计具有重要意义。采用模型试验的方法对四柱结构的波浪绕射问题进行研究。试验中对柱体附近多个位置处的波面高度进行测量,通过对测量数据的统计分析,得到一阶和二阶水面波高分量幅值。为了验证绕射理论在计算波面高度上的适用性,试验结果与数值模拟结果进行了对比。通过对比发现,即使波陡较大的情况下二阶绕射理论也可以很好地对波面高度进行模拟。同时,对发生在多柱结构内部的重要近场干涉现象也进行了观测。在特定的入射频率下,试验中观测到四柱结构内部流体发生明显的共振运动。     

Hydroelastic Response of A Circular Plate in Waves on A Two-Layer Fluid of Finite Depth

The hydroelastic response of a circular, very large floating structure (VLFS), idealized as a floating circular elastic thin plate, is investigated for the case of time-harmonic incident waves of the surface and interfacial wave modes, of a given wave frequency, on a two-layer fluid of finite and constant depth. In linear potential-flow theory, with the aid of angular eigenfunction expansions, the diffraction potentials can be expressed by the Bessel functions. A system of simultaneous equations is derived by matching the velocity and the pressure between the open-water and the plate-covered regions, while incorporating the edge conditions of the plate. Then the complex nested series are simplified by utilizing the orthogonality of the vertical eigenfunctions in the open-water region. Numerical computations are presented to investigate the effects of different physical quantities, such as the thickness of the plate, Young’s modulus, the ratios of the densities and of the layer depths, on the dispersion relations of the flexural-gravity waves for the two-layer fluid. Rapid convergence of the method is observed, but is slower at higher wave frequency. At high frequency, it is found that there is some energy transferred from the interfacial mode to the surface mode.     

Evaluation of Diffraction Predictability in Two Phase Averaged Wave Models

Two different methods for incorporating diffraction effect into wave action balance equation based coastal spectral wave models, WABED and SWAN, are discussed and evaluated with respect to their formulations, numerical implementations, and modeling capabilities. Both models were run to simulate the wave transformation through a gap between two infinitely long breakwaters and that across an elliptical shoal observed in laboratory studies, with the emphasis laid on the diffraction induced by either obstacles or wave amplitude variations. Calculations of WABED were compared with Som-merfeld's analytical solutions, experimental observations and SWAN simulations. It is shown that both methods can predict reasonably wave difiraction for the two cases studied herein, and a fairly better performance is provided by WABED for stronger difiraction case.     

解四阶拟线性波动方程的一类二阶差分格式

建立了解一类四阶拟线性耗散、色散波动方程初边值问题的Crank-Nicolson差分方法，并结合外推的技巧，给出了1个线性化方法；证明了差分解的存在唯一性；用能量估计的方法证明了此格式的二阶收敛性和无条件稳定性；给出了一些数值结果。     

Fast Evaluation of Time-Domain Green Function for Finite Water Depth

1 .IntroductionShipsrestrainedbycablesandfendersinfrontofdocksundergolargeamplitudenon harmonicmotionsinwaves.Forthiskindofnon harmonicproblem ,atime domainmethodmustbeapplied .LinandYue ( 1 990 )usedanintegralequationwiththetime domainGreenfunctionforinfinitewaterdepthtocomputetheshipmotionindeepwater.Butforthepresentproblem ,theintegralequationwiththetime domainGreenfunctionforfinitewaterdepthmustbeapplied .TheGreenfunctionisafieldwithacertainboundaryandinitialconditionsproducedbyasourceat…     

波浪对阻抗型圆柱群的绕射

应用柱面上阻抗型边界条件分析单柱和圆柱群上波面高度和总波浪力的分布规律。随着阻抗值减小波面高度明显减小,柱上总的波浪力也随之减小。由于柱间干扰和阻抗影响,波浪力在一定的波数尺寸范围内出现急降区,阻抗型柱的变化平缓,而刚性光滑壁面柱降低显著,说明阻抗越小柱间波浪散射强度越小。     

Computation of Diffraction of Irregular Waves Behind Single Jetty

- This paper presents a calculation method for the diffraction of both regular waves and irregular waves of the single directional frequency spectrum behind a single jetty with a theoretical analysis, which has been confirmed through the model experiments, derives a method of computing the diffracted irregular waves behind the single jetty with the theoretical analysis on the basis of computation of the field data and gives the formulas and the figures of the computation of wave diffractions behind the vertical wall or mound single jetties.     

水深测量误差成因分析

在海洋测量中特别是大比例尺海洋工程水深地形测量中,极易产生水深数据的误盖．根据作者的实践经验,分析了潮汐、风向、海浪和安装等因素对水深数据误差的影响,并提出在海洋测绘实施过程中应注意的问题及解决方法,以减少对测深数据精度的影响。     

A Time-Domain Coupled Model for Nonlinear Wave Forces on A Fixed Box-Shaped Ship in A Harbor

A 2-D time-domain numerical coupled model is developed to obtain an efficient method for nonlinear wave forces on a fixed box-shaped ship in a harbor.The domain is divided into an inner domain and an outer domain.The inner domain is the area beneath the ship and the flow is described by the simplified Euler equations.The other area is the outer domain and the flow is defined by the higher-order Boussinesq equations in order to consider the nonlinearity of the wave motions.Along the interface boundaries between the inner domain and the outer domain,the volume flux is assumed to be continuous and the wave pressures are equal.Relevant physical experiment is conducted to validate the present model.It is shown that the numerical results agree with the experimental data.Compared with the coupled model with the flow in the inner domain governed by the Laplace equation,the present coupled model is more efficient and its solution procedure is more simple,which is particularly useful for the study on the effect of the nonlinear wave forces on a fixed box-shaped ship in a large harbor.     

Wave-Current Forces on Vertical Cylinders in Side-by-Side Arrangement for Irregular Waves Combined With Opposing Current

- The wave-current forces on vertical piles in side-by-side arrangement induced by irregular waves with opposing current are investigated experimentally in this paper. The characteristics in both time and frequency domain of in-line, lift and resultant forces are analyzed. The grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on piles related to KC number and relative spacing parameters are given. These results are compared with those in the case of irregular waves combined with following currents. It is found that the results in these two cases are quite different. The range of KC number tested is 10- 60, the range of Reynolds number is (0.55-3.43) ×104.     

On the distribution of second order pressure on a vertical circular cylinder

This paper shows how the second order wave pressure on the submerged surface of a body may be obtained without solving the boundary value problem for the second order velocity potential. The corresponding analytical solution for a vertical circular cylinder is developed, and selected results are presented which illustrate a number of novel phenomena not occurring in first order diffraction analysis.     

港池中波浪折射、绕射的数值模拟方法

从流体运动方程和动量方程出发,引入海底摩擦力和港池不完全反射作用,推导出了Berkhoff折射、绕射方程。在深海部分解析方法用精确解(含待定系数)、在复杂地形用数值离散方法求解,中间过度段用的光滑匹配将离散数值(有限元)和解析解(精确解)一同求解。通过极值问题建立泛函,利用泛函的驻定性将海岸(港湾)问题进行数值离散,建立了可行的数值模拟模型。