西北太平洋浪流相互作用对有效波高的影响研究

西北太平洋强流区会对海浪的特征和分布产生显著的影响,尤其是研究台风过程中海流与海浪的相互作用具有重要的研究意义。本文以ROMS海洋模式和SWAN海浪模式为基础,构建了浪流耦合模式系统,对2013年10月6-17日间的台风“丹娜丝”、“百合”、“韦帕”过程中西北太平洋浪流相互作用中海流对有效波高的影响进行了研究。通过对比模式模拟有效波高与浮标观测资料,发现耦合后的有效波高比非耦合结果更接近观测值,耦合模式中海流的存在对有效波高的分布有明显的影响。研究表明,特别是在有效波高峰值处,海流引起的有效波高增大最大可达1 m。海浪浪向及流向的空间分布以及中国近海浮标处浪向与流向的时间序列表明,流向与浪向反向时,海流的影响造成有效波高增大;二者同向时,有效波高减小。海流对有效波高的调整会沿着海浪传播的方向传播相当一段距离。在西北太平洋的海浪场计算中,引入海流的耦合模式计算结果对改善强流区海浪预报具有重要意义,并且海流的模拟精度对于高精度的海浪预报非常重要。     

The morphology and evolution of tidal sand bodies in the macrotidal Gulf of Khambhat,western India

Tidal sand bars and tidal sand ridges are extensively developed in the macrotidal Gulf of Khambhat, offshore western India. The inner and outer regions of the gulf are characterised by the development distinct tidal sand bodies with discrete geometries and dimensions. The outer gulf ridges are long, narrow, curvilinear and several metres high (∼20 m). They are asymmetric in cross-section and migratory in nature, forming ‘ribbon’ like sand bodies separated by tidal channels. Active dunes on these ridges indicate the presence of sand and their orientation parallel to palaeo-shorelines supports a tidal origin. In contrast to the outer gulf tidal sand ridges, sand bars associated with macrotidal estuaries flanking the Gulf of Khambhat typically have an elongate to diamond shape and are only hundreds of metres in width and a few kilometres length. These tidal sand bars occur in the estuary mouths and within the tidally influenced fluvial reaches of the rivers flowing into the gulf. The height of these sand bars is in the range ∼1–3 m. Due to high tidal ranges and bi-directional flow the sand bars do not develop significant height and are formed between the mutually evasive ebb and flow channels. Their bi-directional foresets and the presence of abundant mud drapes associated with the dunes within in-channel sand bars indicate a tidal origin.The Gulf of Khambhat acquired the present configuration in the last few thousand years since the Pleistocene sea-level lowstand (last glacial maximum, ∼18 ka) when the entire continental shelf was subaerially exposed and rivers down-cut into the coastal plain. With increasing sea-level rise, the exposed shelf was drowned, flooding parts of the Modern western Indian peninsula, and large tidal sand ridges formed in the outer gulf. After the fall of sea-level at 2 ka the gulf acquired the Modern configuration with multiple estuaries on both coastlines, rivers supplied the embayment with sandy sediment, and tidal sand bars formed in the Modern estuaries.Quantitative data gathered from the Modern Gulf of Khambhat indicates that for the P50 case, a vertical drill hole will encounter tidal sand bodies (ridges and bars combined) of approximate dimensions 1700 m long, 470 m wide and 1.5 m high, with a spacing of 400 m. In subsurface hydrocarbon reservoirs, where data is sparse and only limited amount of core is available, this quantitative dataset can be useful to constrain subsurface geocellular models. Also, the overall geometry, distribution and aspect ratio of the tidal sand ridges and tidal sand bars can be used to identify ancient counterparts through seismic geomorphology or in core.     

强海况下波流相互作用对有效波高的影响研究

波流相互作用作为非线性科学的前沿课题,一直受到国内外广大学者的关注。本文以2016年第1号超强台风“尼伯特”为例,基于波流耦合模式研究了台风影响期间强海况下波流相互作用对有效波高的影响。研究表明：（1）波流耦合模式可有效提高强海况下海浪的模拟精度;（2）波流相互作用对有效波高的影响与波向和流向之间的夹角关系密切：当波向与流向大致相同时,波流相互作用使有效波高减小;当波向与流向大致相反时,波流相互作用使有效波高增大;当波向与流向之间的夹角越接近90°时,波流相互作用对有效波高的影响越小。波流相互作用对有效波高的影响最大可达1.5 m。     

Harmonic Energy Transfer for Extreme Waves in Current

Ning et al. (2015) developed a 2D fully nonlinear potential model to investigate the interaction between focused waves and uniform currents. The effects of uniform current on focusing wave crest, focal time and focal position were given. As its extension, harmonic energy transfer for focused waves in uniform current is studied using the proposed model by Ning et al. (2015) and Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT) technique in this study. It shows that the strong opposing currents, inducing partial wave blocking and reducing the extreme wave crest, make the nonlinear energy transfer non-reversible in the focusing and defocusing processes. The numerical results also provide an explanation to address the shifts of focal points in consideration of the combination effects of wave nonlinearity and current.     

Analysis of Mixing of Pollutants in Water Waves and Currents

A vertical two-dimensional turbulence numerical model for the interaction of waves and currents is developed in the paper based on the nonlinear two-equation k-ε model with the VOF method.The one-dimensional equivalent advection velocity and equivalent mixing coefficient are defined and the solving process is introduced:The pollutant concentration field,generated by an instant source in waves and currents,is calculated with the model,and then the equivalent advection velocity and equivalent mixing coefficient are obtained by calculating the time derivative of the mean and variance of pollutant concentration probability distribution.The effects of wave period and wave height on the equivalent mixing coefficient for waves and wave-currents are also investigated.     

墨西哥湾波候统计特性分析

简要介绍了波候的概念,简述Ｗｅｉｂｕｌｌ分布及对数一正态分布的拟合方法,提出最大熵分布拟合有效波高、峰周期分布的新方法;选取半封闭海湾墨西哥湾内水深不同、地理位置不同的六个观测站一年的连续资料,以上述三种拟合方法对其有效波高,峰周期概率分布进行拟合,并与观测直方图进行比较检验,结果表明,在墨西哥海湾内,最大熵分布优于对数－正态分布,对数－正态分布优于Ｗｅｉｂｕｌｌ分布。     

Wave Breaking Phenomena of Irregular Waves Combined with Opposing Current

- Experimental study and theoretical analysis show that the critical value of relative wave height (H/ d)b given by Goda and the critical wave steepness (H/ L)b given by Michell and Miche can be adopted as the spilling breaking indices of regular waves. According to the same principle, a systematic theoretical analysis and experiment of irregular waves have been done by the authors in order to solve the breaking problem of irregular waves. It is indicated that the authors' method for determining wave breaking of regular waves can also be used for irregular waves.     

广义帕雷托分布在波浪极值推算中的应用

以CCMP风场(1988年1月~2010年12月)为驱动,本文采用第三代海浪数值模式SWAN对中国海海区进行风浪场的数值模拟,并利用浮标资料对驱动风场和计算有效波高进行验证。根据模拟的结果分别采用广义帕雷托分布(GPD)和常用的广义极值分布(GEV)拟合累积频率曲线并进行效果检验,进而分析和比较2种分布的优缺点,并运用广义帕雷托分布(GPD)模型进行重现期波要素的推算,分析GPD模型的应用前景。     

Wave-Current Forces on Vertical Cylinders in Side-by-Side Arrangement for Irregular Waves Combined With Opposing Current

- The wave-current forces on vertical piles in side-by-side arrangement induced by irregular waves with opposing current are investigated experimentally in this paper. The characteristics in both time and frequency domain of in-line, lift and resultant forces are analyzed. The grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on piles related to KC number and relative spacing parameters are given. These results are compared with those in the case of irregular waves combined with following currents. It is found that the results in these two cases are quite different. The range of KC number tested is 10- 60, the range of Reynolds number is (0.55-3.43) ×104.     

大西洋波高熵的分布变化规律研究

使用1992年10月-1998年12月连续75个月、230个重复周期的Topex／Poseidon卫星高度计有效波高资料，对南北大西洋波高熵的空间分布特征和时间变化规律进行了研究，统计分析了大西洋波高熵的多年的空间分布特征和多年各月的时间变化规律。结果表明，大西洋波高熵呈现出中间低、南北高的马鞍形空间分布特征和明显季节变化的规律，与大西洋的平均有效波高、气候的地理分布以及大气活动分布特征和变化规律相一致。     

Effect of Distortion Ratio on Local Scour Under Tidal Currents and Waves

Five generalized physical models of drfferent distortion ratios were bruit according to DOU Guo-ren‘s similarity theory of total sediment transport modeling for estuarine and coastal regions. Experiments on local scour in front of groins were made under the actions of tidal currents and waves with clear and sediment entraining water. The scour depths under different dynamic actions are compared. The effect of the distortion ratio on the depth of scour hole is discussed. A relationship between scour depths for distorted and undistorted models is given.     

关于风浪预报公式和风区宽度的注记

从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。     

浪流相互作用对北部湾内波浪、冷水团及冲淡水的影响研究

Wave-current interaction and its effects on the hydrodynamic environment in the Beibu Gulf(BG) have been investigated via employing the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport(COAWST) modeling system. The model could simulate reasonable hydrodynamics in the BG when validated by various observations.Vigorous tidal currents refract the waves efficiently and make the seas off the west coast of Hainan Island be the hot spot where currents modulate the significant wave height dramatically. During summer, wave-enhanced bottom stress could weaken the near-shore component of the gulf-scale cyclonic-circulation in the BG remarkably, inducing two major corresponding adjustments: Model results reveal that the deep-layer cold water from the southern BG makes critical contribution to maintaining the cold-water mass in the northern BG Basin.However, the weakened background circulation leads to less cold water transported from the southern gulf to the northern gulf, which finally triggers a 0.2°C warming in the cold-water mass area; In the top areas of the BG, the suppressed background circulation reduces the transport of the diluted water to the central gulf. Therefore, more freshwater could be trapped locally, which then triggers lower sea surface salinity(SSS) in the near-field and higher SSS in the far-field.     

Higher Harmonics Induced by Waves Propagating over A Submerged Obstacle in the Presence of Uniform Current

To investigate higher harmonics induced by a submerged obstacle in the presence of uniform current, a 2D fully nonlinear numerical wave flume（NWF） is developed by use of a time-domain higher-order boundary element method（HOBEM） based on potential flow theory. A four-point method is developed to decompose higher bound and free harmonic waves propagating upstream and downstream around the obstacle. The model predictions are in good agreement with the experimental data for free harmonics induced by a submerged horizontal cylinder in the absence of currents. This serves as a benchmark to reveal the current effects on higher harmonic waves. The peak value of non-dimensional second free harmonic amplitude is shifted upstream for the opposing current relative to that for zero current with the variation of current-free incident wave amplitude, and it is vice versa for the following current. The second-order analysis shows a resonant behavior which is related to the ratio of the cylinder diameter to the second bound mode wavelength over the cylinder. The second-order resonant position slightly downshifted for the opposing current and upshifted for the following current.     

渤海的环流、潮余流及其对沉积物分布的影响

阐明渤海环流和潮余流的分布特征及其与沉积物输运之间的关系。本文根据８０年代以来的实测海流资料得到：辽东湾的环流是顺时针向的；黄河三角洲外海存在着一支流向东北偏北向流，与辽东湾西部的东北向海流相接；渤海湾内的环流北部为反时针向，南部为顺时针向回转的双环结构。上述环流趋势与渤海沉积物分布相一致。渤海沿岸主要入海河流的特征矿物分布正在上述环流存在的最好佐证。文中进一步讨论了潮余流分布特征及其对渤海环流的     

渤海的环流、潮余流及其对沉积物分布的影响

阐明渤海环流和潮余流的分布特征及其与沉积物输运之间的关系。本文根据80年代以来的实测海流资料得到：辽东湾的环流是顺时针向的；黄河三角洲外海存在着一支流向东北偏北向流，与辽东湾西部的东北向海流相接；渤海湾内的环流北部为反时针向，南部为顺时针向回转的双环结构。上述环流趋势与渤海沉积物分布相一致。渤海沿岸主要入海河流的特征矿物分布正是上述环流存在的最好佐证。文中进一步讨论了潮余流分布特征及其对渤海环流的贡献。     

JASON-1与TOPEX/POSEIDON卫星高度计数据在中国海和西北太平洋的一致性分析及印证

利用JASON-1和TOPEX/POSEIDON卫星高度计在相互校正阶段的观测资料,对两者在中国海和西北太平洋测得的海面风速、有效波高、后向散射截面、海平面高度等参数进行一致性分析;利用j,v模型及主要分潮的调和常数,对中国陆架浅海的JASON-1海平面高度数据进行浅海潮汐修正,使用验潮站月平均水位资料对修正结果加以印证。结果显示,2颗高度计观测的海洋环境参数具有强相关性,JASON-1具备了完成延续TOPEX/POSEIDON数据集这一使命的条件。但是,2套系统对于同一海洋环境参数的观测还是存在不能忽略的差异,对这种差异进行了分析,并给出了修正模型。所使用的浅海潮汐修正方法有效地抑制了中国陆架浅海潮波对海平面高度反演的影响,所使用浅海水域的5个验潮站月平均水位资料与JASON-1高度计经过浅海潮汐修正后的海平面高度的相关系数为0.738,标准偏差为0.096m。通过进一步融合JASON-1和TOPEX/POSEIDON在并行飞行期间的海平面高度数据并与验潮站资料比较显示,两者的相关系数提高到0.83,标准偏差为0.067m。     

Simulation of Typhoon-Driven Waves in the Yangtze Estuary with Multiple-Nested Wave Models

Typhoon-generated waves are simulated with two numerical wave models, the SWAN model for the coastal and Yangtze Estuary domain, nested within the WAVEWATCHIII （WW3） for the basin-scale East China Sea domain. Typhoon No. 8114 is chosen because it was very strong, and generated high waves in the Estuary. WW3 was implemented for the East China Sea coarse-resolution computational domain, to simulate the waves over a large spatial scale and provide boundary conditions for SWAN model simulations, implemented on a fine-resolution nested domain for the Yangtze Estuary area. The Takahashi wind model is applied to the simulation of the East China Sea scale （3-hourly） and Yangtze Estuary scale （1-hourly） winds. Simulations of significant wave heights in the East China Sea show that the highest waves are on the right side of the storm track, and maxima tend to occur at the eastern deep-water open boundary of the Yangtze Estuary. In the Yangtze Estuary, incoming swell is dominant over locally generated waves before the typhoon approaches the Estuary. As the typhoon approaches the Estuary, wind waves and swell coexist, and the wave direction is mainly influenced by the swell direction and the complex topography.     

Effects of Topography and Current on Horizontal Irrotational Waves in Shallow Water

Based on the Boussinesq assumption,derived are couple equations of free surface elevationand horizontal velocities for horizontal irrotational flow,and analytical expressions of the correspondingpressure and vertical velocity.After the free surface elevation and horizontal velocity at a certain depth areobtained by numerical method,the pressure and vertical velocity distributions can be obtained by simplecalculation.The dispersion at different depths is the same at the O(ε)approximation.The waveamplitude will decrease with increasing time due to viscosity,but it will increase due to the matching ofviscosity and the bed slope.thus,flow is unstable.Numerical or analytical results show that the waveamplitude.velocity and length will increase as the current increases along the wave direction.but theamplitude will increase.and the wave velocity and length will decrease as the water depth decreases.     

中国近海及临近海域海浪的季节特征及其时间变化

利用1992年12月-2005年3月TOPEX卫星高度计资料,对中国近海波浪季节特征及其时间变化进行了分析。分析结果表明,冬季平均波高最大,台湾海峡、南海北部、中南半岛东南海域以及吕宋海峡外侧是冬季的大浪区;夏季平均波高最小;春、秋两季为过渡期。对冬季大浪所在区域波浪时间变化的研究表明,年变化是其主要时间变化特征,而季节内变化是该海区的另一重要特征,并且以5 a为周期的年际变化与ENSO事件有着很好的对应关系。