Wave Propagation in A Converging Channel of Arbitrary Configuration

A numerical solution was derived to determine wave field in a converging channel bounded by rubble-mound jetties. The solution was achieved by applying boundary element method. The model was applied to analyze the effect of channel convergence, the cross-section of the jetties and their physical and damping properties on wave field in the channel. The study reveals numerous non-intuitive results specific for jetted and convergent channels. The analysis shows that wave reflection is usually low and is of secondary practical importance. Wave transmission strongly depends on the channel geometry and transmitted waves may be higher than incident waves, despite reflection and damping processes. Moreover, wave transmission depends on physical and damping properties of rubble jetties and the results show that wave transmission may increase with the increasing damping properties of jetties, which is a non-intuitive feature of wave fields in jetted channels. The analysis reveals several novel results of practical importance. It is shown that the rubble-mound jetties should be constructed from the material of high porosity, which ensures low transmission. More attention should be devoted to hydraulic properties of porous materials. It is recommended to use the material of moderate damping properties. The material of high damping properties often increases the wave transmission. It is possible, by a selection of rubble-mound material, to obtain lower transmission level for steep waves than for waves of moderate steepness. A series of laboratory experiments were conducted in the wave flume to verify the theoretical results. The comparisons show that theoretical results are in fairly good agreement with experimental data.     

Interaction of non-breaking regular waves with a periodic array of artificial porous bars

A computational model is developed to investigate the wave damping characteristics of a periodic array of porous bars. The transmission and reflection coefficients as well as the wave energy dissipation are evaluated relating to the physical properties and geometric factors of bars. It is shown that the porosity, number, width and height of bars all play important roles in the wave damping characteristics, compared to other factors such as the intrinsic permeability. It is observed that like impermeable bars, permeable bars display Bragg phenomenon. However, Bragg reflection produced by permeable bars is smaller than that by impermeable bars. Permeable bars reflect smaller waves, transmit smaller waves and dissipate more wave energy. It is indicated that if the porosity increases, both the reflection and transmission coefficients decrease and more wave energy is dissipated. Further, it is found that the porosity controls the magnitude, but not the oscillation frequency of the reflection coefficient, which depends only on the number of bars.     

Interaction of oblique waves with infinite number of perforated caissons

An analytic solution based on the division of the fluid domain is developed for the interaction of obliquely incident waves with infinite number of perforated caissons. The whole fluid domain is firstly divided into infinite sub-domains according to the division of structures, and subsequently eigenfunction expansion is employed to represent the velocity potential in each domain. A phase relation is utilized for the analysis of wave oscillation in each caisson, and the character of structure geometry is considered in setting up the mathematical model of reflection waves. The reflection waves from the present analysis include many propagation waves traveling in different directions when the incident wave frequency is high. Benchmark examinations show that the continuous condition of water particle velocity is satisfied at the front walls of caissons, and the reflection coefficients keep agreement with the energy conservation relation very well when porous effect parameter is infinite. Numerical results show that the reflection coefficients of obliquely incident waves are smaller when the length of caissons is shorter at low frequency. The wave reflection coefficients and the wave forces normal to caissons decrease and the wave forces along caissons increase with the increase of the wave incident angle.     

开孔沉箱与斜向波作用的理论研究和实验验证

应用透空壁内流体速度与壁两侧的压力差成正比的线性模型,研究了无限多个开孔沉箱在斜向波作用下的反射问题。整个流域被分成无限多个子域,在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法对速度势进行展开。对于沉箱内的波浪运动,根据沉箱位置引入相位差概念。在构造反射波模型时,考虑了结构物几何形状周期性的影响。结果表明,当孔隙系数无限大时,开孔墙前后的速度非常接近,反射系数符合能量守恒定律。在低频入射波作用下,沉箱越短,其反射系数越小,反射系数随着角度的变大而减小。     

Wave damping characteristics of vertically stratified porous structures under oblique wave action

The characteristics of wave damping for the vertically stratified porous breakwaters are investigated under oblique wave action. It is found that for common angles of incidence, the wave damping efficiency of a vertically stratified porous structure behaves very similar to a simple structure. The reflection coefficient decreases with increasing angle of incidence while the transmission coefficient only slightly increases as the angle of incidence increases. It is shown that the wave energy loss is in direct proportional to the structure thickness and its porosity regardless of the angle of incidence. Considering small transmission coefficient as a basic requirement and if a moderate reflection coefficient is accepted, a structure thickness of b/h=1 is proposed. In this situation, since the structure does not have a very large thickness, adopting a vertically stratified structure is not an effective way to improve its wave damping efficiency.     

Breaking solitary wave evolution over a porous underwater step

Solitary wave evolution over a shelf including porous damping is investigated using Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations. Porous media induced damping is determined based on empirical formulations for relevant parameters, and numerical results are compared with experimental information available in the literature. The aim of this work is to investigate the effect of wave damping on soliton disintegration and evolution along the step for both breaking and non-breaking solitary waves. The influence of several parameters such as geometrical configuration (step height and still water level), porous media properties (porosity and nominal diameter) or solitary wave characteristics (wave height) is analyzed. Numerical simulations show the porous bed induced wave damping is able to modify wave evolution along the step. Step height is observed as a relevant parameter to influence wave evolution. Depth ratio upstream and downstream of the edge appears to be the more relevant parameter in the transmission and reflection coefficients than porosity or the ratio of wave height–water depth. Porous step also modifies the fission and the solitary wave disintegration process although the number of solitons is observed to be the same in both porous and impermeable steps. In the absence of breaking, porous bed triggers a faster fission of the incident wave into a second and a third soliton, and the leading and the second soliton reduces their amplitude while propagating. This decrement is observed to increase with porosity. Moreover, the second soliton is released before on an impermeable step. Breaking process is observed to dominate over the wave dissipation at the porous bottom. Fission is first produced on a porous bed revealing a clear influence of the bottom characteristics on the soliton generation. The amplitude of the second and third solitons is very similar in both impermeable and porous steps but they evolved differently due to the effect of bed damping.     

Wave-induced mean flows in vertical rubble mound structures

Waves impinging on rubble mound breakwaters and seawalls induce a mean flow within the breakwater, analogous to the so-called undertow within the surf zone. Here, using a plane wave approximation (kh<1.5), a second-order problem is solved for an idealized breakwater with a rectangular cross-section to show the origin and the nature of the mean flow within the porous structure. The mean flow is expressed in terms of a mean stream function analytically derived, obtained based on the mass flux balance between the incident, reflected and transmitted waves. Furthermore, the evolution of other second-order magnitudes such as mean water level and mass flux is analyzed under different incident wave conditions, structure geometry and porous material characteristics. Results show that the evolution of the different mean quantities is controlled mainly by reflection and consequently depends highly on structure geometry and porous material characteristics. Furthermore, it is shown that the return flow is stronger with increasing mass flux decay. Some qualitative experiments to show the described mechanism are also presented.     

开孔沉箱在斜向入射波作用下受力研究

应用透空壁内流体速度与壁两侧的压力差成正比的线性模型,研究了斜向波与无限多个开孔沉箱的相互作用.依照结构物的几何形状,把整个流域分成无限多个子域,在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法对速度势进行展开.对于沉箱内的波浪运动,引入相位差概念;在构造反射波模型时,考虑了结构物的几何形状影响.列举出物理模型实验结果与数值实验结果的比较,可以看出两者吻合较好.进一步的数值计算验证表明,当孔隙系数无限大时,开孔墙前后的速度非常接近.在低频入射波作用下,垂直于沉箱的水平力随角度的变大而减小,平行于沉箱排列方向的力则变大.     

双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤反射特性的理论与试验研究

双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤具有低反射、结构受力小、适宜较大水深和工程造价低等优点。为明确双消浪室局部开孔沉箱水动力特性的主要影响因素,采用理论分析和物理模型试验相结合的方法,对规则波和不规则波作用下双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤的反射特性进行研究。基于势流理论,建立规则波和不规则波对局部开孔沉箱防波堤作用的三维解析解,采用二次压力损失边界条件考虑沉箱开孔墙对波浪运动的影响,利用周期性边界条件考虑防波堤结构沿长度方向的周期性变化。开展相应规则波和不规则波物理模型试验,验证理论模型的合理性。通过算例分析,研究不同波浪要素和结构参数对防波堤反射特性的影响。研究表明:双消浪室局部开孔沉箱相对消浪室宽度取值为0.08~0.20,沉箱前墙开孔率大于后墙开孔率时,防波堤在较大波浪频率范围内消波效果显著;当前后墙的开孔率相等时,防波堤反射系数的最小值随着开孔率增大而减小。     

3-D non-breaking regular wave interaction with submerged breakwaters

Modelling of the transformation and interaction of regular wave trains with submerged permeable structures is carried out. The existing literature, is summarized relevant theories presented, and theoretical results are compared with existing laboratory data. Special attention is paid to wave reflection. The influence of wave characteristics including oblique incidence, structure geometry and porous material properties on the kinematics and dynamics over and inside the breakwater is considered. Two different models are presented: an eigenfunction expansion 3-D model and a 2-D model based on a mild-slope equation for porous media to account for breakwater slope.     

淹没矩形防波堤透反射系数特性研究

采用解析方法研究了斜向入射波作用下淹没矩形防波堤的透反射系数特性.首先利用特征函数展开法导出了绕射势函数的分析解和透反射系数的计算公式,然后利用边界元方法验证了解析解,在此基础上利用解析解分析了若干工况下的防波堤透反射特性.计算结果表明,淹没矩形防波堤截面的宽度、高度和相对位置以及入射角的改变都不同程度影响反射系数和透射系数.在中等深度条件下,对于一定频率的波浪,位置和尺寸适当的淹没矩形堤可以反射大部分斜向入射波.研究结果对设计淹没的矩形防波堤具有重要的参考价值.     

Wave interaction with a wave absorbing double curtain-wall breakwater

This study examines the hydrodynamic performance of a wave absorbing double curtain-wall breakwater. The breakwater consists of a seaward perforated wall and a shoreward impermeable wall. Both walls extend from above the seawater to some distance above the seabed. Then the below gap allows the seawater exchange, the sediment transport and the fish passage. By means of the eigenfunction expansion method and a least square approach, a linear analytical solution is developed for the interaction of water waves with the breakwater. Then the reflection coefficient, the transmission coefficient and the wave forces acting on the walls are calculated. The numerical results obtained for limiting cases agree very well with previous predictions for a single partially immersed impermeable wall, the double partially immersed impermeable walls and the bottom-standing Jarlan-type breakwater. The predicted reflection coefficients for the present breakwater also agree reasonable with previous experimental results. Numerical results show that with appropriate structure parameters, the reflection and transmission coefficients of the breakwater may be both below 0.5 at a wide range of the relative water depth. At the same time, the magnitude of wave force acting on each wall is small. This is significant for practical engineering.     

Wave interaction with partially immersed twin vertical barriers

The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of partially immersed twin vertical barriers and the water surface fluctuations in between the barriers were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves of wide ranges of wave heights and periods, nine different immersions of the barriers and a constant water depth were used for the investigation. The coefficient of transmission, and the coefficient of reflection were obtained from the measurements and coefficient of energy dissipation is estimated using the law of conservation of energy. It is found in general that the twin barrier is better in reducing the coefficient of transmission and increasing the coefficient of dissipation in random waves than with the regular waves, especially for increasing incident wave energy levels. The coefficient of transmission reduces significantly with the increased relative water depth. Increase of relative water depth from 0.09 to 0.45 resulted in reduction of transmission coefficient from 0.65 to 0.05. It is possible to achieve a transmission coefficient less than 0.20 for six immersion configurations with relative depth of immersions of the barrier less than (0.28, 0.43), especially in the region closer to deep water conditions. Coefficient of dissipation ranging from 0.65 to 0.85 can be obtained due to random wave interaction.     

Wave interaction with one or two rows of closely spaced rectangular cylinders

Experimental results are reported on the wave reflection from and transmission through one row or two rows of closely spaced rectangular cylinders. An empirical expression is proposed for the friction factor which models the head loss due to closely spaced rectangular cylinders. Algebraic expressions are presented to calculate the reflection and transmission coefficients of regular waves for a single slotted wall or double slotted walls. The model is validated by the published and present experimental results. The proposed method can be used for the preliminary design of slotted-wall breakwaters.     

An Efficient Model for Transient Surface Waves in Both Finite and Infinite Water Depth

A numerical model is developed to simulate fully nonlinear extreme waves in finite and infinite water-depth wave tanks. A semi-mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian formulation is adopted and a higher-order boundary element method in conjunction with an image Green function is used for the fluid domain. The boundary values on the free surface are updated at each time step by a fourth-order Runga-Kutta time-marching scheme at each time step. Input wave characteristics are specified at the upstream boundary by an appropriate wave theory. At the downstream boundary, an artificial damping zone is used to prevent wave reflection back into the computational domain. Using the image Green function in the whole fluid domain, the integrations on the two lateral walls and bottom are excluded. The simulation results on extreme wave elevations in finite and infinite water-depths are compared with experimental results and second-order analytical solutions respectively. The wave kinematics is also discussed in the present study.     

Wave motion over a breakwater system of a horizontal plate and a vertical porous wall

A two-dimensional analytical solution is presented to study the reflection and transmission of linear water waves propagating past a submerged horizontal plate and through a vertical porous wall. The velocity potential in each fluid domain is formulated using three sets of orthogonal eigenfunctions and the unknown coefficients are determined from the matching conditions. Wave elevations and hydrodynamic forces acting on the porous wall are computed. Reflection and transmission coefficients are presented to examine the performance of the breakwater system. The present analytical solutions are found in fairly good agreement with the available laboratory data. The results indicate that the plate length, the porous-effect, the gap between plate and porous wall, and the submerged depth of the plate all show a significant influence on the reflected and transmitted wave fields. It is also interesting to note that the submerged plate plays an important role in reducing the transmitted wave height, especially for long incident waves.     

On the wave damping due to a permeable seabed

Laboratory experiments were performed to study the wave damping induced by a porous bed. During the propagation of waves over a porous medium the wave characteristics change: a significant wave height attenuation of about 20–30% is observed and, in almost all cases, an increase in wavelength. The wave decay is found to depend on the wave characteristics like the wave height, the wavelength and the wave shape. We have also studied the influence of the geometric properties of the porous bed (i.e. thickness and length) on the wave dissipation. It is found that the attenuation of the wave height increases with the permeable bed thickness and that there is a maximum wave dissipation for a length of the porous seabed equal to 2.0–2.5 times the wavelength. A comparison is also made of our findings with available literature results. A parametric study of the wave damping has been performed by varying the values of the resistance coefficients derived by both literature and experiments. Literature analytical models have been applied by using the resistance coefficients that better describe our flow conditions. All models in use underpredict the observed wave attenuation for any sensible values of the resistance coefficients.     

波浪反射系数谱的特征分析

应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.     

Wave-ice interaction in the North-West Barents Sea

The results of field work on drift ice during wave propagation are analyzed and presented. The field work was performed in the Barents Sea, and the main focus of the paper is on wave processes in the MIZ. A model of wave damping in broken ice is formulated and applied to interpret the field work results. It is confirmed that waves of higher frequencies are subjected to stronger damping when they propagate below the ice. This reduces the frequency of most energetic wave with increasing distance from the ice edge. Difference of wave spectra measured in two relatively close locations within the MIZ is discussed. The complicated geometry and dynamics of the MIZ in the North-West Barents Sea allow waves from the Atlantic Ocean and south regions of the Barents Sea to penetrate into different locations of the MIZ.