Modelling salinity and circulation for the Columbia River Estuary

Simulations of the time and depth-dependent salinity and current fields of the Columbia River Estuary have been performed using a multi-channel, laterally averaged estuary model. The study simulated two periods. The first, in October 1980, with low riverflow of about 4,000m³s⁻¹, which showed marked changes in the salinity intrusion processes between neap and spring tides; and second, in spring 1981, with high riverflow varying between 7,000 and 15,000m³s⁻¹, which showed the rapid response of the salinity intrusion to changes in riverflow and that vertical mixing did not change character with increasing tidal energy because of the maintenance of stratification by freshwater flow. An extreme low flow simulation (riverflow of 2,000m³s⁻¹) showed a more partially mixed character of the estuary channels with tidal dispersion of salt across the Taylor Sands from the North Channel to the upper reaches of the Navigation Channel. Asymmetries in the non-linear tidal mean flows, in the flood and ebb circulations, and salinity intrusion characteristics between the two major channels were observed at all riverflows. The model confirms Jay and Smith's (1990) analysis of the circulation processes in that tidal advection of salt by the vertically sheared tidal currents is the dominant mechanism by which the salinity intrusion is maintained against large freshwater flows. An accurate finite-difference method, which minimized numerical dispersion, was used for the advection terms and was an important component in reasonably simulating the October neap-spring differences in the salinity intrusion. The simulations compare favorably with elevation, current and salinity time series observations taken during October 1980 and spring 1981.     

Historical changes in the Columbia River Estuary

Historical changes in the hydrology, sedimentology, and physical oceanography of the Columbia River Estuary have been evaluated with a combination of statistical, cartographic, and numerical-modelling techniques. Comparison of data digitized from US Coast and Geodetic Survey bathymetric surveys conducted in the periods 1867–1875, 1926–1937, and 1949–1958 reveals that large changes in the morphology of the estuary have been caused by navigational improvements (jetties, dredged channels, and pile dikes) and by the diking and filling of much of the wetland area. Lesser changes are attributable to natural shoaling and erosion. There has been roughly a 15% decrease in tidal prism and a net accumulation of about 68 × 10⁶m³ of sediment in the estuary. Large volumes of sediment have been eroded from the entrance region and deposited on the continental shelf and in the balance of the estuary, contributing to formation of new land. The bathymetric data indicate that, ignoring erosion at the entrance, 370 to 485 × 10⁶m³ of sediment has been deposited in the estuary since 1868 at an average rate of about 0.5 cm y⁻¹, roughly 5 times the rate at which sea level has fallen locally since the turn of the century.Riverflow data indicate that the seasonal flow cycle of the Columbia River has been significantly altered by regulation and diversion of water for irrigation. The greatest changes have occurred in the last thirty years. Flow variability over periods greater than a month has been significantly damped and the net discharge has been slightly reduced. These changes in riverflow are too recent to be reflected in the available in the available bathymetric data.Results from a laterally averaged, multiple-channel, two-dimensional numerical flow model (described in Hamilton, 1990) suggest that the changes in morphology and riverflow have reduced mixing, increased stratification, altered the response to fortnightly (neap-spring) changes in tidal forcing, and decreased the salinity intrusion length and the transport of salt into the estuary.The overall effects of human intervention in the physical processes of the Columbia River Estuary (i.e. decrease in freshwater inflow, tidal prism, and mixing; increase in flushing time and fine sediment deposition, and net accumulation of sediment) are qualitatively similar to those observed in less energetic and more obviously altered estuarine systems. A concurrent reduction in wetland habitats has resulted in an estimated 82% reduction in emergent plant production and a 15% reduction in benthic macroalgae production, a combined production loss of 51,675 metric tons of organic carbon per year. This has been at least partially compensated by a large increase in the supply of riverine detritus derived from freshwater phytoplankton primary production. Comparison of modern and estimated preregulation organic carbon budgets for the estuary indicates a shift from a food web based on comparatively refractory macrodetritus derived from emergent vegetation to one involving more labile microdetritus derived from allochthonous phytoplankton. The shift has been driven by human-induced changes to the physical environment of the estuary.While this is a relatively comprehensive study of historical physical changes, it is incomplete in that the sediment budget is still uncertain. More precise quantification of the modern estuarine sediment budget will require both a better understanding of the fluvial input and dredging export terms and a sediment tranport model designed to explain historical changes in the sediment budget. Oceanographic studies to better determine the mechanisms leading to the formation of the turbidity maximum are also needed. The combination of cartography and modelling used in this study should be applicable in other systems where large changes in morphology have occurred in historical time.     

Internal tides and sediment movement on Horizon Guyot,Mid-Pacific Mountains

Internal tidal currents are the likely cause of erosional features such as current ripples, sand waves, and truncated bedding horizons on the sediment cap of Horizon Guyot. Current meter data obtained over a 9 month period in 1983–1984 at about 213 m above the guyot show that the tidal currents are anomalously strong for mid-oceanic depths, probably the result of topographically induced generation of internal tidal waves. An analysis of the initiation of motion of the foraminiferal sand by the internal tidal currents indicates that these currents, particularly during the months of March–May, are likely to transport the surficial sediment and generate the observed bedforms.     

The Bedload Movement in the Changjiang Estuary

- Sandwaves in the Changjiang estuary were measured with a shallow sediment profiler and an echosounder from 1978 to 1988. The data, together with grain size and bedform of sediment indicates that the bedload movement by rolling and saltation is of great significance to sediment transport and is the principal factor responsible for sandwave and sandbody development in the estuary. The sandwaves were found well-developed, which is related to the tidal range and the velocity of ebb current. However, the further growth is restricted by strong flood current prevailing in the estuary. Because of the significant bedload, the sandbodies shift obviously and frequently, and sometimes the exchange of position occurs between the sandbodies and tidal channels. As a result, ships are regularly forced to change their navigation course.     

Sediment transport near the Tauranga entrance to Tauranga Harbour

Abstract

Sediment transport at the Tauranga Entrance was studied in relation to tidal currents and waves. Bedforms resulting from tidal flow were investigated with scuba divers and echo‐soundings. The alignment and scale of bedforms indicated the direction and approximate rate of sediment transport. Sediment transport was measured directly using sediment traps, and results were compared with rates calculated by another method. Maximum sediment transport rates of 20 000–30 000 g.m^?1 per half tidal cycle occur near the inlet gorge, but rates vary considerably in time and space, depending mainly upon power of tidal currents. A model of sediment transport for this inlet has been evolved based on tidal flow streamlines, bedform features, and the measured and calculated rates of sediment transport.     

长江河口底沙运动规律

于１９８１－１９８８年以浅地层剖面仪和回声测探仪取得沙波观测资料，运用这些资料以及河床表层沉积物和历年河口水文、地形资料，采用水文学、沉积学与泥水沙运动力学相结合的研究方法，分析长江河口底沙的运规律。结果表明：长江河口底沙运动非常频敏，一般有单颗粒滚动、跳跃，沙波及沙体推移等形式；在沙质床面上沙波发育良好，其形成、发展和消失和潮差落潮流速有一定的相关性，因受涨，落潮流改造，沙波难于得到充分发展；沙     

Ocean current generated sedimentary facies in the Osumi Strait, South of Kyushu, Japan

An investigation of the surface sediments and bedforms in the Osumi Strait, located between Kyushu and Tanegashima, south of Kyushu, Japan, was carried out. The distribution of some characteristics of the surface sediments and bedforms is clarified.In the Osumi Strait, the surface sediments tend to become finer in size, better sorted and lower in specific gravity from southwest to northeast. The bedform distribution shows a systematic change in the same direction. This direction is the same as the direction of sediment transportation and of the current flowing through the Strait. It is considered that these changes in bedforms and sediment properties are formed by the decrease in the energy of the current. The current generating bedforms and sediment distribution is the Osumi Branch Current, one of the branches of the Kuroshio. The sediment transportation is active under the present hydraulic conditions.The sedimentary facies developed in the Osumi Strait is controlled by a unidirectional ocean current. The ocean current is one of the important factors for sedimentary processes where strong ocean current prevails along or near the continental shelf such as around the Japanese Islands.     

Implications of bedform dimensions for the prediction of local scour in tidal inlets: a case study from the southern North Sea

The bedforms and the local scour at the base of a cylindrical pile were studied in a tidal inlet in the Wadden Sea, southern North Sea, using high-resolution multibeam bathymetry data from four surveys. The observed changes in scour and bedform dimensions were interpreted in terms of hydraulic forcings varying periodically at different time scales. It appears that bedform orientation reacts to changing flow conditions on a semidiurnal basis, whereas bedform height and steepness reflect the spring-neap cycle as well as seasonal signals. The scour depth carries a strong overprint of the semidiurnal tidal cycle, which is at a maximum during the strongest tidal flow. Subtler variations in scour depth can possibly be attributed to the spring-neap tidal cycle. Based on these data on bedform and scour dimensions, correlation functions were established between scour depth and dune height as well as dune length. In measuring the scour depth under mobile bed conditions, establishing the seabed level based on the trough level of the bedforms nearest to the scour proved useful. These findings suggest that the dimensions of bedforms in dynamic equilibrium with prevailing hydraulic flow conditions can be used to estimate scouring in tidal environments.     

广西钦江河口枯季水动力特征及其对冷空气的响应

河口作为陆海相互作用的关键带,是河流入海泥沙及污染物的主要归宿地。钦江作为广西第二大河流,在茅尾海资源开发利用和生态环境保护与修复中发挥着重要作用。为进一步认识钦江河口地区的沉积动力过程,2021年10月27日至12月8日在此展开水动力和水体环境要素的连续观测。现场观测与分析结果表明,观测期间钦江河口潮汐类型为正规全日潮,浅水分潮显著,平均潮差为3.07 m,具有落潮优势;潮流以全日分潮流为主导,平均流速为0.12 m/s,运动形式主要为往复流;余流流向主要为西南方向。钦江河口潮汐和潮流性质较外湾和茅尾海中部海域全日潮特征更显著。枯季期间河口表层沉积物随潮汐运动表现为侵蚀-沉降交替的变化规律,垂向上侵蚀通量大于沉降通量,水平方向上悬沙净向海输运。冷空气过境带来的降雨使得钦江河口水体盐度降低、浊度增大,悬沙浓度及输沙量增加,同时冷空气南下时北风增强引起钦江河口减水效应并使潮差略有增加,水动力强度增大,增加表层沉积物的活动性,从而引起底部沉积物再悬浮强度和频率增加。     

Sediment texture,distribution and transport on the Ayeyarwady continental shelf,Andaman Sea

The Ayeyarwady continental shelf is a complex sedimentary system characterized by large sediment influx (> 360 million ton/yr), a wide shelf (> 170 km), a strong tidal regime (7 m maximum tidal range), and incised by the Martaban Canyon. Grain size distribution on the Ayeyarwady shelf reveals three distinct areas in terms of sediment texture (i) a near-shore mud belt in the Gulf of Martaban and adjacent inner shelf (ii) outer shelf relict sands and (iii) mixed sediments with varying proportions of relict sand and modern mud in the Martaban Canyon. The bulk of the terrigenous sediment discharged by the Ayeyarwady River is displaced eastwards by a combination of tidal currents and clockwise flowing SW monsoon current and deposited in the Gulf of Martaban resulting in shoaling of its water depths. Part of the sediment discharge reaches the deep Andaman Sea via the Martaban Canyon and the rest is transported westward into the Bay of Bengal by the counter-clockwise flowing NE monsoon currents.     

Tidal bedforms in eastern part of the Bohai Sea

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Sedimentary processes on an intertidal mudflat in the upper macrotidal Seine estuary, France

In order to understand the hydrodynamic parameters that control the fluvial sediment dynamics on an intertidal mudflat located in a sheltered zone in the upper part (fluvial part) of the macrotidal Seine estuary (France), a two-year field study of high-frequency field measurements was carried out. The bed-level evolution of the mudflat surface was measured from the semi-diurnal period to annual time scales using a high-resolution altimeter. The data showed that the sedimentary patterns on the mudflat were mainly controlled by river flows and tides. During high river flows in winter, sedimentation dominated; suspended particulate matter concentrations were higher, submersion was constant and at semi-diurnal scale, sedimentation duration was more important than erosion due to an asymmetrical tide. By contrast during low river flows in summer, erosion dominated mainly as a result of immersion/emersion of tidal flats during semi-diurnal cycle. From this annual sedimentation–erosion cycle we identify a temporary storage of 10–30% of the fine-grained (<63 μm) river-borne particles on mudflats in the upper section of the fluvial Seine estuary during high river flows.River-related sediment fluxes were estimated from the measurement of fine-grained sedimentation zones in the fluvial part of the estuary. The erosion/sedimentation processes were perennial, and the amounts of contributing sediments were directly related to the solid river load. Our results indicate that mudflats in the fluvial part of the Seine estuary play an important role in the downstream transfer of fine-grained suspended particulate matter (SPM) towards the turbidity maximum and the Rouen docks particularly during low river flows, when roughly 30–50% of the SPM originates from the eroded intertidal flats.     

Small-scale sediment transport patterns and bedform morphodynamics: new insights from high-resolution multibeam bathymetry

New multibeam echosounder and processing technologies yield sub-meter-scale bathymetric resolution, revealing striking details of bedform morphology that are shaped by complex boundary-layer flow dynamics at a range of spatial and temporal scales. An inertially aided post processed kinematic (IAPPK) technique generates a smoothed best estimate trajectory (SBET) solution to tie the vessel motion-related effects of each sounding directly to the ellipsoid, significantly reducing artifacts commonly found in multibeam data, increasing point density, and sharpening seafloor features. The new technique was applied to a large bedform field in 20–30 m water depths in central San Francisco Bay, California (USA), revealing bedforms that suggest boundary-layer flow deflection by the crests where 12-m-wavelength, 0.2-m-amplitude bedforms are superimposed on 60-m-wavelength, 1-m-amplitude bedforms, with crests that often were strongly oblique (approaching 90°) to the larger features on the lee side, and near-parallel on the stoss side. During one survey in April 2008, superimposed bedform crests were continuous between the crests of the larger features, indicating that flow detachment in the lee of the larger bedforms is not always a dominant process. Assessment of bedform crest peakedness, asymmetry, and small-scale bedform evolution between surveys indicates the impact of different flow regimes on the entire bedform field. This paper presents unique fine-scale imagery of compound and superimposed bedforms, which is used to (1) assess the physical forcing and evolution of a bedform field in San Francisco Bay, and (2) in conjunction with numerical modeling, gain a better fundamental understanding of boundary-layer flow dynamics that result in the observed superimposed bedform orientation.     

Multitrack surveying of large bedforms

Data are presented from multitrack surveys of large, sandy bedforms in the Fraser River estuary, Canada. A detailed contour map and block diagram provide information on three-dimensional bedform geometry that could not be obtained using conventional survey methods. The technique has implications for estimation of bedload transport and for bedform classification.     

The morphodynamic modelling of tidal sand waves on the shoreface

An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).     

Bedforms and depositional sedimentary structures of a barred nearshore system, eastern Long Island, New York

The depositional sedimentary structures and textures of a single-barred nearshore system on the Atlantic coast of eastern Long Island, New York, were studied along seven shore-normal transects. Data along these transects consisted of textural analysis of 160 sediment samples, temporal bedform observations, and 42 can cores for the analysis of sedimentary structures.

Six sedimentary subenvironments were observed, based on distinct combinations of sediment color and texture, bedforms, physical, and biogenic sedimentary structures, and benthic infaunal communities. The shoreface environment is divided into the upper shoreface, the longshore trough, and the longshore bar. The divisions of the inner shelf environment are the shoreface-inner shelf transition, the offshore, and the coarse-grained deposit. The first five subenvironments are arranged in bands parallel to the shoreline, whereas the coarse-grained deposit occurs in patches across the inner shelf.

The location of fair-weather wave base, coinciding with a reduction in slope (3.0–0.3°) from the shoreface to the inner shelf, is characterized by the cessation of debris surge in the troughs of ripples, the formation of a “rust layer” of microorganisms over the bedform surface, and a sediment color change caused by an increase in organic detritus. The sequence of bedforms and physical sedimentary structures observed in this system fits well with existing wave-generated (oscillatory) flow regime models. These models explain the observed sequences as a response to the degree of asymmetric flow created by shoaling waves. Distribution of biogenic structures and assemblages of infaunal organisms is influenced by the distance landward or seaward of fair-weather wave base.

The overall relationships of this nearshore system can then be summarized as a hypothetical prograding stratigraphic sequence. The entire sequence is underlain by organic-rich, bioturbated, offshore deposits. Overlying the offshore is the planar-laminated sediments of the transition. Grading upward from the transition are the cleaner, planar-laminated, seaward slope deposits of the longshore bar. Above this, is a distinct erosional surface indicating the base of the massive to cross-laminated coarse sediments of the longshore trough. Capping the sequence are the cross- to planar-laminated, clean sands of the upper shoreface and foreshore.     

南海北部海底沙波研究

南海北部水深100~250 m的陆架和陆坡斜坡海底分布着大片沙波地貌,本文采用底形相图参数近似计算和泥沙起动流速2种计算方法,结合海底微地貌的实际形态,研究了沙波的沉积特征及其成因机理。研究认为,区内的沙波为现代沉积地貌;控制沙波形成发育的主要水动力因素是潮流与风暴条件下风海流的叠加;区内泥沙颗粒粒径适宜,海底坡度平缓,有利于海底沙波的发育。     

杭州湾的沉积结构与沉积环境分析

漏斗状的地形、强劲的潮流和长江入海泥沙的输入是制约杭州湾沉积作用的主要因素。根据沉积结构特征可将杭州湾划分为五种不同的沉积环境:东部湾底、西部湾底、庵东浅滩、近岸深槽和水下沙脊。杭州湾内潮流脊发育不好的原因在于没有足够的粗屑物质。     

Hydrodynamics and sedimentation induced by large-scale coastal developments in the Keum River Estuary, Korea

The macro-tidal Keum River Estuary located in the eastern Yellow Sea has been suffering siltation and morphological change since 1994. To understand the effects of the large-scale coastal developments on the sedimentation processes in the estuary, hydrodynamic and sedimentary data collected from 1985 to 2002 were analyzed and numerical experiments of hydrodynamics were performed. The sedimentation rate in the estuary increased by a factor of 1.9, from 3.5 × 10⁶ to 6.7 × 10⁶ m³ y⁻¹, after the construction of a dam in the upper reaches of the estuary in 1994. Large part of the estuary is veneered by the muddy sediments noticeably, which were rarely found before dam construction. Since then, siltation has concentrated in the upper estuary rather than the lower. The upstream transport and accumulation of fine-grained sediments is due to: (1) the change to flood-dominance in the main channel, i.e. the relative intensification of flood current and the flood-directed residual current; and (2) the decrease in transport capacity in the upper estuary, i.e. the marked decrease in current velocity, which was induced by dam construction. The former has resulted in the ebb-dominance of the Gaeya channel, a distributary in the north of the main channel. The tidal pumping of fine sediments was reinforced not by the freshwater/saltwater interaction but by the residual tidal circulation. The sediment fluxes observed in 2001–2002 demonstrate year-round net inflow both at the entrance of the jetties and at the Gaeya channel, which implies that the sediments delivered by the Keum River are entirely confined to the estuary, incapable of escaping to the sea. The net inward transport of fine sediments may accumulate pollutants adsorbed to or absorbed in the sediment grains in the estuary, thus deteriorating the benthic environment gradually and the water quality eventually.     

Sediment-starved sand ridges on a mixed carbonate/siliciclastic inner shelf off west-central Florida

High-resolution side-scan mosaics, sediment analyses, and physical process data have revealed that the mixed carbonate/siliciclastic, inner shelf of west-central Florida supports a highly complex field of active sand ridges mantled by a hierarchy of bedforms. The sand ridges, mostly oriented obliquely to the shoreline trend, extend from 2 km to over 25 km offshore. They show many similarities to their well-known counterparts situated along the US Atlantic margin in that both increase in relief with increasing water depth, both are oriented obliquely to the coast, and both respond to modern shelf dynamics. There are significant differences in that the sand ridges on the west-central Florida shelf are smaller in all dimensions, have a relatively high carbonate content, and are separated by exposed rock surfaces. They are also shoreface-detached and are sediment-starved, thus stunting their development. Morphological details are highly distinctive and apparent in side-scan imagery due to the high acoustic contrast. The seafloor is active and not a relict system as indicated by: (1) relatively young AMS ¹⁴C dates (<1600 yr BP) from forams in the shallow subsurface (1.6 meters below seafloor), (2) apparent shifts in sharply distinctive grayscale boundaries seen in time-series side-scan mosaics, (3) maintenance of these sharp acoustic boundaries and development of small bedforms in an area of constant and extensive bioturbation, (4) sediment textural asymmetry indicative of selective transport across bedform topography, (5) morphological asymmetry of sand ridges and 2D dunes, and (6) current-meter data indicating that the critical threshold velocity for sediment transport is frequently exceeded. Although larger sand ridges are found along other portions of the west-central Florida inner shelf, these smaller sand ridges are best developed seaward of a major coastal headland, suggesting some genetic relationship. The headland may focus and accelerate the N–S reversing currents. An elevated rock terrace extending from the headland supports these ridges in a shallower water environment than the surrounding shelf, allowing them to be more easily influenced by currents and surface gravity waves. Tidal currents, storm-generated flows, and seasonally developed flows are shore-parallel and oriented obliquely to the NW–SE trending ridges, indicating that they have developed as described by the Huthnance model. Although inner shelf sand ridges have been extensively examined elsewhere, this study is the first to describe them in a low-energy, sediment-starved, dominantly mixed siliciclastic/carbonate sedimentary environment situated on a former limestone platform.