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The authors are grateful to the derivation and correction addressed by Shi and Kirby (2008) for the calculation of the wave setup and setdown induced by obliquely incident waves. The mathematical equations for the expression of setup and setdown are rederived in which the velocity potential is expanded to the second-order on the still water lever. The correct form of setdown presented by Shi and Kirby is confirmed in the present paper.  相似文献   

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An empirical modification to the Airy equation for wave celerity reduces to the expression for solitary waves in shallow water whilst retaining its usual form for deep water. The equation yields celerities in reasonable agreement with those for cnoidal waves in intermediate water depths. In this aspect, it is similar to the work described by Le Roux [Le Roux, J.P., 2007. A function to determine wavelength from deep into shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking. Coastal Engineering 54, 770–774]. The empirical modification has been widely applied in computer programs over the past 30 years.  相似文献   

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The Indo-Pacific oyster Chama pacifica Broderip, 1835 (Mollusca, Bivalvia, Chamidae) is rarely found in the Northern Red Sea reefs of Eilat (Gulf of Aqaba), where it is outnumbered by its indigenous congener, Chama savignyi Lamy, 1921. The influx of Eritrean biota from the Red Sea into the Mediterranean Sea via the Suez Canal has led to the formation of massive Chama oyster beds along the Eastern Mediterranean shore. However, unlike the Northern Red Sea, the Eastern Mediterranean Chama beds are dominated by C. pacifica oysters, whereas C. savignyi is absent from this region. In an attempt to understand this difference in their respective distribution, the reproductive biology of both species was compared. Histological analysis of the male and female gonads, monitored monthly from March 2009 to August 2010 in both regions, revealed a similar reproductive cycle, comprising six stages: onset of gametogenesis, advanced gametogenesis, ripe, ready to spawn, spent and sexual rest. Female gonads demonstrated an additional, seventh stage – restoration, coinciding with inferred spawning of ripe gametes. Both species were found to be dioecious spawners, with a single, annual, temperature-dependent inferred spawning period. Chama pacifica was found to reproduce efficiently in maximal Mediterranean seawater temperatures not experienced by the Northern Red Sea Chama populations. This study demonstrates the high invasive potential of an oyster species despite its rarity in its source region.  相似文献   

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