Modelling and observations of tidal wave propagation, circulation and residence times in Puttalam Lagoon, Sri Lanka

Tidal measurements and a depth-averaged 2D model are used to examine wave progression and circulation in a long, shallow, micro-tidal lagoon in Sri Lanka. Ranges and phase lags for different tidal constituents are used to calibrate the model. A single drag coefficient, C_d = 0.0032, gives almost perfect agreement with data. Current measurements are used for validation of the model. The lagoon tide consists of a combination of progressive and standing waves, where progressive waves dominate in the outer part and standing waves in the inner. A Lagrangian based particle-tracking method is developed to study tidally and wind induced residence times. If tides were the only factor affecting the residual circulation, the residence time inside the narrowest section would be approximately 100 days. Steady winds (of typical monsoon average) decrease the residence times to 60–90 days. Estuarine forcing due to net freshwater supply is not modelled (due to lack of reliable runoff data), but independent, long-term salinity observations and calculations based on volume and salt conservation during periods of negligible freshwater supply (the lagoon is seasonally hypersaline) indicate residence times ranging from 40 to 80 days. Model derived residence times based on tides alone represent a minimum exchange. Even weak forcing, through winds, excess evaporation or freshwater supply efficiently reduces residence times.     

Large-scale slumps off southern India and Sri Lanka

Two suites of slumps from opposite margins of the Gulf of Mannar, between Sri Lanka and southern India, have met and coalesced. The “Eastern Comorin” Slump is the more coherent of the two with a length of 70 to 100 km. The “Colombo” side slump consists of two to four blocks 15 to 35 km in length. Both slump-suites decrease to the south. A paleoslump underlies the western toe of the East Comorin Slump at a depth of some 800 meters. To the south, an enlarging and deepening submarine canyon marks the area of slump coalescence.     

Wave characteristics off the South East Coast of India

A detailed analysis of visually observed wave data off Madras, South East Coast of India reported for a period of ten years is presented and discussed in this paper. The wave characteristics include wave height, wave period and its direction with respect to North. About five different standard distributions were tried to fit the observed data and found that the wave characteristics off Madras do not follow any of these. The wave power potential off Madras is also discussed.     

斯里兰卡以东海域涡旋偶极子的生成与维持机制

斯里兰卡岛以东海域在西南季风期间常会出现一对低频涡旋偶极子（即斯里兰卡穹顶气旋涡和反气旋涡）,对当地的海洋生态系统及气候有着重要影响。基于（1/12）°分辨率的混合坐标海洋模式（Hybrid Coordinate Oceanic Model,HYCOM）再分析资料以及多尺度子空间变换（MWT）和基于MWT的正则传输理论等方法,分析了它们的生成发展机制。结果发现这2个涡旋发展所需能量最终都来源于海表风应力做功,但具体可取3条完全不同的路径：①风应力直接驱动涡旋;②风应力驱动背景场的西南季风流,其后西南季风流发生正压不稳定以提供涡旋所需的涡动能;③西南季风流通过风应力做功获得的动能转换为有效位能,其后通过斜压不稳定给涡旋提供位能。涡旋最终衰亡的主要原因包括风应力对涡旋做功的减少、西南季风流正压不稳定的减弱、涡旋的能量频散以及低频涡向更高频扰动的正向能量级串。     

Observations of the submarine discharge of underground waters (South Coast of the Crimea)

We analyze the results of the field hydrological and hydrochemical observations of the submarine discharge of underground waters near the cape Aiya (South Coast of the Crimea) obtained with the help of the measuring equipment developed at the Marine Hydrophysical Institute of the Ukrainian National Academy of Sciences. We measure the current velocities, temperature, salinity, and the contents of silicic acid and phosphates inside a karst cavity and in the test region around the cavity. We present three estimates of the output of submarine discharge and compute the amounts of silicic acid and phosphates carried out into the sea by the submarine source.     

Diet and gill morphology of the East Coast redeye round herring Etrumeus wongratanai off KwaZulu-Natal,South Africa

Stomach content analyses and measurements of gillraker morphology were used to assess the diet and feeding ecology of the East Coast redeye round herring Etrumeus wongratanai and provide data for comparisons with other small pelagic fishes off South Africa. Samples were collected by jigging from a kayak off Scottburgh, KwaZulu-Natal (KZN), over the period July 2013–May 2014. In total, 66 stomachs (containing 4 407 prey items) and 66 gill arches were examined. Stomach content analyses indicated that East Coast redeye round herring, at the time of sampling, fed on large (1 500–2 500?µm) particles, with ～2 500?µm particles making the greatest contribution to dietary carbon. The species feeds on larger particles than do anchovy Engraulis encrasicolus and sardine Sardinops sagax, but on particles of a similar size to those consumed by West Coast redeye round herring Etrumeus whiteheadi. There were significant differences in mean gillraker gaps between East Coast redeye round herring and both sardine and anchovy, but not between East Coast and West Coast redeye round herring. The differences in gillraker gaps between East Coast redeye round herring, sardine and anchovy are indicative of resource partitioning through differential feeding, based on zooplankton size. The data suggest that there is no resource partitioning between East and West coast redeye round herring, indicating that competition is likely to occur between them. However, such competition is minimised by limited spatial overlap between these two species.     

Long-term trends in cetacean occurrence during the annual sardine run off the Wild Coast,South Africa

During the austral winter, cetaceans and other apex predators follow the annual northeastward movement of shoaling sardines, known as the sardine run, along the southeast coast of South Africa, including a 400-km stretch called the Wild Coast. In total, 131 opportunistic aerial surveys were conducted between May and July, from 1996 to 2014, to monitor sardine movement. Cetacean-sighting data from these surveys were analysed, focusing on long-term trends in frequencies of the cetaceans. In total, 630 sightings involving five cetacean species were recorded: 268 (approximately 32 400 individuals) of Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphin Tursiops aduncus, 108 (approximately 79 400 individuals) of long-beaked common dolphin Delphinus capensis, 242 (approximately 670 individuals) of humpback whale Megaptera novaeangliae, 1 (two individuals) of southern right whale Eubalaena australis, and 11 (16 individuals) of Bryde’s whale Balaenoptera edeni. The occurrence of common dolphins, typically associated with sardines, decreased significantly in average group size over the study period (p = 0.0343); bottlenose dolphins, considered generalist feeders, demonstrated no such trend (p = 0.916). Humpback whales were most frequently sighted between 2010 and 2014, and with significantly larger groups observed towards the end of the study period (p = 0.0121). For all these species, more sightings were made inside than outside of marine protected areas (>70% of the dolphin species, and >65% of the humpback whales), both pre- and post-2005 (from 2005 the size of the survey area increased). The results indicate that movements of the common dolphin may be employed as a proxy for sardine occurrence. Long-term trends evident in the data also demonstrate the importance of this coastal region for bottlenose dolphins as well as use as a migratory corridor for humpback whales.     

斯里兰卡南部海域次重力波特征研究

次重力波在近岸水动力运动过程中起到重要作用,深入地了解次重力波对预防其引发的近岸灾害有着重要意义。结合波浪现场观测方法和数值模拟方法研究了斯里兰卡南部海域次重力波特征。短波和自由次重力波通过海浪谱模型WAVEWATCH III模拟,而约束次重力波通过二阶非线性理论模拟,数值模拟结果与现场观测结果对比吻合良好。研究结果表明,斯里兰卡南部海域大部分时间以自由次重力波为主;在强涌浪海况下（短波波高大于2.5 m,周期大于15 s）约束次重力波逐渐逼近自由次重力波甚至占主导地位;斯里兰卡大陆架极其狭窄,对涌浪的能量损耗作用极为有限,使得近岸面对强劲的涌浪及其伴生的次重力波的侵袭,增大了次重力波引发近岸水动力灾害的风险。     

Variability of Currents off the Northern Coast of New Guinea

The variability of the New Guinea Coastal Current (NGCC) and New Guinea Coastal Undercurrent (NGCUC) were examined from one year time series of current data from ADCP moorings at 2°S, 142°E and 2.5°S, 142°E. Change in the hydrographic structure induced by monsoonal wind forcing was also examined from hydrographic data along the 142°E covering consecutively two winter seasons and two summer seasons. The westward NGCUC was observed to persist year around. The annual mean depth of the current core was 220 m, the mean speed of the zonal component was 54 cm/s with a standard deviation of 15 cm/s at the 2.5°S site. Velocity fluctuations at 20–30 day period were observed year around. Seasonal reversal of the surface intensified NGCC was clearly observed. In the boreal summer characterized by the southeasterly monsoon, westward currents of over 60 cm/s were dominant in the surface layer. The warm, low-salinity layer thickened at this time and sloped down toward the New Guinea coast from the equator. This surface water accumulation may be caused by onshore Ekman drift at the New Guinea coast, combined with weak Ekman upwelling at the equator. In the boreal winter, an eastward surface current developed to 100 cm/s extending down to 100 m depth in response to the northwesterly monsoonal winds. Coastal upwelling was indicated in this season and the surface water accumulated at the equator due to Ekman convergence. Shipboard ADCP data indicated that the NGCUC intensified in boreal summer as the width and depth of the NGCUC increased.     

渤海湾西北岸泻湖自然演变及其人为陆化

渤海湾西北岸发育有中纬度地区典型的滨外沙坝泻湖及沿岸沙坝泻湖。泻湖不仅是该海岸区域内的一个重要组成部分,同时亦是海岸带自然资源丰富的地带。然而,由于泻湖的自然演变退化,更重要的是人类活动的影响,致使泻湖生境遭到严重破坏,同时也加速了泻湖陆化消亡过程。本文以渤海湾西北岸泻湖为例,讨论了泻湖的自然演变及其人为陆化问题。     

Trophic interactions in the coastal ecosystem of Sri Lanka: An ECOPATH preliminary approach

This study attempts to assemble and summarize existing information in order to build a general representation of the trophic interactions within the shallow coastal ecosystem of Sri Lanka. A multispecific ecosystem-based approach on trophic relationships and their possible variations was performed using ECOPATH. Thirty-nine functional groups were considered representing all trophic levels in the food web.     

Seasonal Variations in the Sea off Sanriku Coast, Japan

The temperature and salinity data obtained by the Iwate Fisheries Technology Center for the 25-year period from 1971 to 1995 were analyzed to clarify the seasonal variations in the sea off Sanriku, Japan. The variations of three typical waters found in this region, the Tsugaru Current water, the Oyashio water, and the Kuroshio water are discussed in terms, of a T-S scatter diagram referring to the water mass classification proposed by Hanawa and Mitsudera (1986). The mean temperature and salinity fields averaged for each month show clear seasonal variation. Distributions of the Tsugaru Current water and the Oyashio water can barely be distinguished in the fields deeper than 200 m since the Tsugaru Current has a shallow structure; however, the fields at 100 m depth indicate remarkable seasonal variation in the area of the Tsugaru Current. At 100 m depth, the temperature and salinity fronts between the Tsugaru Current water and the Oyashio water gradually disappear in January through April, appear again in May, then become clearest in September. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Field measurements and numerical simulations of the 2004 tsunami impact on the south coast of Sri Lanka

This paper examines the factors that have contributed to the significant spatial variability of the impact of the December 2004 tsunami in the southern province of Sri Lanka. Documented observations of the evidence left behind by the 2004 tsunami together with numerical simulation of tsunami propagation have been utilized for this purpose. The field data examined in the present analysis comprise the maximum water levels, the horizontal inundation distances and the number of housing and other buildings damaged as a result of the 2004 tsunami whilst the numerical results considered include the distribution of the amplitude of the tsunami. The present model results confirm that source directivity controls the distribution of tsunami amplitudes farther offshore whilst large-scale bathymetric features significantly influence the tsunami propagating over the shelf. Our analyses of field data also show the dominant influence of coastal geomorphology and topography on the extent of tsunami inundation.     

Observations of Tsunami Impact on the Coast of Kerala, India

The tsunami generated by the December 2004 Sumatra-Andaman earthquake had a devastating effect on some parts of Kerala coast, which is a coast located in southwest India. Results of post-tsunami field surveys carried out to understand the changes in coastal morphology and sediment characteristics in the worst affected Kayamkulam region of Kerala coast are documented in this study. Analysis of offshore bathymetric data indicates the shifting of depth contours towards shore, indicating erosion of sediments and deepening of innershelf due to the tsunami. Depth measurement along the backwater (T-S canal) in the hinterland region indicates siltation due to the inundation of the canal.     

Observations of Tsunami Impact on the Coast of Kerala,India

The tsunami generated by the December 2004 Sumatra-Andaman earthquake had a devastating effect on some parts of Kerala coast, which is a coast located in southwest India. Results of post-tsunami field surveys carried out to understand the changes in coastal morphology and sediment characteristics in the worst affected Kayamkulam region of Kerala coast are documented in this study. Analysis of offshore bathymetric data indicates the shifting of depth contours towards shore, indicating erosion of sediments and deepening of innershelf due to the tsunami. Depth measurement along the backwater (T-S canal) in the hinterland region indicates siltation due to the inundation of the canal.     

山东近岸双壳类体内重金属的研究(英文)

１９９３年和１９９４年,分别在山东沿海地区（长岛、烟台、蓬莱、威海、青岛、崂山、黄岛和胶南）采集了一些常见的底栖生物（蛤、扇贝、贻贝、毛蚶和牡蛎等）,用火焰和无火焰原子吸收分光光度计测定了这些生物体中的重金属（Ｃｕ、Ｐｂ、Ｚｎ、Ｃｒ、Ｆｅ、Ｍｎ、Ｃｏ和Ｎｉ）。结果表明重金属的浓度变化较大,取决于生物种类、元素本身和采样点。采用金属污染指数（ＭＰＩ）比较了不同采样点生物体的金属总量,ＭＰＩ的变化顺序为：威海、崂山＜胶南、长岛＜青岛＜蓬莱＜烟台＜黄岛。将双壳类体内重金属的含量与最大允许浓度进行比较,表明在本调查范围内山东沿海地区大多数双壳类可食部分的重金属含量对人类健康还是安全的。     

Alongshore Sediment Transport Near Tidal Inlets of Chilika Lagoon; East Coast of India

ABSTRACT

Chilika, a lagoon along the east coast of India, is undergoing transformation due to frequent shoreline change near inlet(s). Shoreline change near inlet includes change in position and shape of inlet, inlet channel length, and spit growth/erosion. These variable features of lagoon inlet(s) critically depend on alongshore sediment transport (LST) and discharge (water and sediment) from the lagoon to the sea. The LST and the processes responsible for sand spit growth/erosion, considered as important attributes of inlet stability, are the subject matter of the present investigation and hence the study assumes importance. The study includes integration of observational and modeling framework. Observations include nearshore wave, bathymetry, beach profile, shoreline and sediment grain size of spits while numerical modeling includes simulation of the wave using MIKE 21 Spectral Wave model and LST simulation using LITtoral DRIFT. The results indicate that the predominant wave directions as S and SSE, which induces round the year south to north alongshore transport with significant seasonal variation in magnitude. The estimated LST closely matches with previous studies near Chilika inlet and for other locations along the Odisha coast. Besides temporal variability, the study reveals spatial variability in alongshore transport near Chilika inlet and considers it as one of the important attributes along with northward spit growth for inlet migration/closure/opening.     

Seasonal Changes in Limestone and Sand Plant Communities off the Florida West Coast

Abstract. The benthic flora of the limestone (20%) and sand (80%) substrates typical of intermediate depths on the west coast of Florida was sampled using quadrats over a three year period. Twenty seven taxa of macroscopic algae and one seagrass, Halophila decipiens , were collected. No plants were found during February of two consecutive years. The biomass and available energy ranged from 0 (winter) to 12.4g dry weight and 128 kJ (summer) per 25cm^: on the limestone outcroppings and from 0 to 4.4g dry weight and 43 kJ for the sand substrate. The flora was seasonal with no dominant macroscopic algae occurring throughout the year. The flora of the intermediate depths is subjected to abiotic disturbances and is rudcral in nature. Thus, secondary production in the extensive intermediate depths along the west coast of Florida must depend more on the inshore, shallow water seagrass communities for primary production.