Wave-induced surface drift of an inextensible thin film

In this study, the surface drift of an inextensible film due to a series of progressive gravity waves is investigated both analytically and experimentally. A second approximation of the conformal mapping that transforms the progressive sinusoidal surface to the horizontal axis is applied, thus allowing the analysis to formally accommodate a boundary layer thickness that is much less than the wave height. By computing the stream function to the third order that is an order higher than the past analysis, a pressure component in phase with the wave slope is revealed. The pressure force generated is comparable to the bottom shear on the thin film induced by the moving fluid and thus cannot be ignored. Based on the combined forces on the surface firm, a mean drift is estimated by assuming that the opposing force is due to the viscous drag induced by the drift motion. The experimental results show that the computed drift velocity based on the present study mostly underestimates the experimental observations, but it is in closer agreement than the classical Phillips' 7/4 estimate.     

Wave-induced drift of small floating objects in regular waves

Water waves induce a slow drift of an object floating on the water surface. In this study, we examined, by a series of laboratory experiments, the drift motion of small rigid floating objects driven by regular waves in deep water. Different shapes of planar objects, including square, circular and elliptical, were investigated for two different submergences, and their drift motions in waves were determined using an infrared motion monitoring system. The corresponding measurements enabled the quantification of the drift characteristics with respect to the wave characteristics and object shapes. Numerical simulations based on an existing theory were presented and comparisons between the experimental data and the predictions by the existing theory were performed.     

An experimental study of the surface drift currents in a wave flume

The Lagrangian surface drift current induced by surface gravity waves in a wave flume has been investigated experimentally by the particle tracking method. It was observed that in most regions of the flume, the time-mean surface drift current was in the opposite direction to that of the wave propagation. The secondary current in the form of a pair of longitudinal vortices caused by the lateral boundaries was analyzed. It is suggested that the convection of the vorticity generated by the wave-absorber and the lateral boundaries is an important factor in the determination of the time-mean drift in a wave flume.     

Observations and measurements of wave-induced drift of surface inextensible film in deep and shallow waters

The present study investigates the drift of two-dimensional floating surface films by both deep and shallow water waves in the laboratory. The focus is on the observations and measurements on the drift behavior and to clarify some outstanding issues. Thin polyethylene sheets with reflective markers were attached to simulate the inextensible surface films. Upon the initiation of a wave train, two infrared cameras recorded continuously the instantaneous position of the markers at 50 Hz. The temporal variation of the drift velocity was then determined by processing the recorded data. In all experiments, the drift velocity increased quickly in the beginning and reached a quasi-steady mean value. The magnitude of the surface drift typically increased with the longitudinal length of the polyethylene sheet until the sheet length was approximately the same as the wavelength. Lengthening the sheet length further did not lead to significant changes in the drift velocity. Under the shallow water condition, the wave-induced drift velocity increased linearly with the Ursell number and with a lower water depth.     

Super-ensemble techniques: Application to surface drift prediction

The prediction of surface drift of floating objects is an important task, with applications such as marine transport, pollutant dispersion, and search-and-rescue activities. But forecasting even the drift of surface waters is very challenging, because it depends on complex interactions of currents driven by the wind, the wave field and the general prevailing circulation. Furthermore, although each of those can be forecasted by deterministic models, the latter all suffer from limitations, resulting in imperfect predictions. In the present study, we try and predict the drift of two buoys launched during the DART06 (Dynamics of the Adriatic sea in Real-Time 2006) and MREA07 (Maritime Rapid Environmental Assessment 2007) sea trials, using the so-called hyper-ensemble technique: different models are combined in order to minimize departure from independent observations during a training period; the obtained combination is then used in forecasting mode. We review and try out different hyper-ensemble techniques, such as the simple ensemble mean, least-squares weighted linear combinations, and techniques based on data assimilation, which dynamically update the model’s weights in the combination when new observations become available. We show that the latter methods alleviate the need of fixing the training length a priori, as older information is automatically discarded.When the forecast period is relatively short (12 h), the discussed methods lead to much smaller forecasting errors compared with individual models (at least three times smaller), with the dynamic methods leading to the best results. When many models are available, errors can be further reduced by removing colinearities between them by performing a principal component analysis. At the same time, this reduces the amount of weights to be determined.In complex environments when meso- and smaller scale eddy activity is strong, such as the Ligurian Sea, the skill of individual models may vary over time periods smaller than the forecasting period (e.g. when the latter is 36 h). In these cases, a simpler method such as a fixed linear combination or a simple ensemble mean may lead to the smallest forecast errors. In environments where surface currents have strong mean-kinetic energies (e.g. the Western Adriatic Current), dynamic methods can be particularly successful in predicting the drift of surface waters. In any case, the dynamic hyper-ensemble methods allow to estimate a characteristic time during which the model weights are more or less stable, which allows predicting how long the obtained combination will be valid in forecasting mode, and hence to choose which hyper-ensemble method one should use.     

印度洋波浪诱导的水体输运效应及其对赤道SST异常的影响

波浪诱导的水体输运会对海洋产生大尺度影响。结合波浪大尺度效应的研究现状和印度洋涌浪分布的事实,利用ECMWF-CERA20的波浪、海表面温度(SST)及风场数据,采用多种统计分析方法,研究了波浪输运与赤道印度洋SST的潜在关系。结果显示:中高纬度波浪输运异常的低频信号在空间、周期上与赤道SST异常均有高度相似性;Stokes漂流纬向、经向异常呈现出南—北、东—西的振荡,其第二模态时间序列与印度洋偶极子(Indian Ocean Dipole,IOD)指数存在强相关性并在La Ni a次年的负IOD事件中达到最高:相关系数在ACC区域纬向异常超前6个月时接近0.6,中纬度区域经向异常在超前3个月时达到0.7。在La Ni a次年的负IOD中,波浪经向输运异常的相位(超前三个月)与赤道SST异常相位呈全年反相位,经向浪致输运异常造成的东—西热量输运差异对赤道SST异常分布有不可忽略的贡献。     

全球Stokes 漂流的时空分布特征研究

利用海浪模式WWIII(Wave Watch III)2008年的模拟结果对海面Stokes漂流、Stokes输运、Stokes深度以及全球Langmuir数的年平均分布特征和季节平均分布特征分别进行了详细的研究与分析。结果表明,海面Stokes漂流和Stokes输运均呈现高纬度偏大的特征,以南极绕极流海域最为突出。全球大部分海域Stokes漂流影响深度在20 m以内,呈现大洋东部偏大,西部偏小的分布特征。全球大部分海域的混合作用是剪切不稳定性和Langmuir湍效应并存的状态,甚至有些海域是以Langmuir湍效应为主。因此,在进行大尺度的海洋数值模拟时,应该考虑波浪导致的混合效应。     

随机波浪下斯托克司漂移速度是否引起水面漂移物离散的研究

漂浮于自由水面的污染物的的迁移、扩散会受到天然随机海浪的影响。之前的研究（以Herterich和Hasselmann（1982）为代表）普遍认为,随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度会引起水面污染物的离散,这个离散甚至有可能跟风和海流引起的离散同一量级。本研究就随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度是否会引起水面漂移物的离散进行理论和试验探讨。从理论推导可知,随机波浪下的质量输移速度是个定常分量,因此它不会随时间变化而引起水面漂移物的离散。随后我们在实验室水槽中进行了漂移物在随机波浪（P-M谱）作用下的漂移过程的测量。试验结果也印证了随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度不会引起水面漂移物离散的结论。     

基于船载无人机的绿潮漂移速度估算与分析

无人机遥感具有应用灵活、不受云层干扰以及时空分辨率高的显著优势。为探索无人机在海洋灾害监测中的应用,本文以科考船为起降平台,首次基于无人机获取的双时相绿潮正射影像,开展了黄海绿潮漂移速度的估算研究。同时对比了卫星影像提取的速度结果,并探讨了风与潮流对海上绿潮漂移的驱动。研究发现：(1)可见光波段的漂浮藻类指数能高精度地提取无人机可见光影像中的绿潮(kappa 系数=0.95);(2)无人机遥感估算3个站位的绿潮漂移速率为0.26～0.44 m/s,漂移方向在1天之内变化明显;(3)绿潮短时间内的漂移受到风与潮流的共同影响,漂移方向与M₂分潮的潮流方向基本一致,位于风向右侧1°～62°。基于船载的无人机航测,能高精度地估算绿潮漂移速度,为精细化的绿潮灾害预警与防控提供技术支撑。     

Principal stress rotation and cyclic shear strength for an elliptical rotation stress path

Based on the analytical solutions for wave-induced soil response in an unsaturated anisotropic seabed of finite thickness, an elliptical, i.e., noncircular rotation stress path is proven to be a more common state in a soil element with the cyclic shear stresses due to the traveling linear wave. The influence of an elliptical stress path on the characterization of failure strength is analyzed using three new parameters representing the shape, size, and the orientation of the ellipse. A series of cyclic rotational shear tests on the reconstituted specimens of Chinese Fujian Standard Sand have been performed to investigate the effect of elliptical stress path. A strength function in term of failure cycles is derived to quantify the failure strength of a given sand within a seabed subjected to regular wave loading. The results provide a basis for the evaluation of liquefaction potential of seabed but also point to a unique backbone cycle shear strength curve for soil under principal stress rotation.     

基于FY-3/MERSI数据的北冰洋流冰自动提取与跟踪方法

北冰洋航路是未来全球航运的重点开拓领域,海冰运动对北冰洋航路开发有重要影响。本文利用风云三号卫星中分辨率光谱成像仪(FY-3/MERSI)数据的特点和优势,研究北冰洋流冰自动提取和运动跟踪的方法。首先在分析流冰灰度分布特征的基础上,提出分区域阈值分割与梯度差分相结合的方法实现块状流冰提取,然后根据块状流冰的多种几何特征匹配同名流冰并计算其运动速度。应用这种方法跟踪2011年6月弗雷姆海峡流冰运动,跟踪结果与美国国家冰雪数据中心提供的极地网格化日均海冰运动矢量整体趋势一致,验证了方法的有效性。这种方法获取各块流冰实际运动速度,可以有效弥补网格化海冰运动平均速度场分布和细节的不足,为北冰洋航路开发提供更详细的流冰运动信息。     

Three dimensional wave scattering by arrays of elliptical and circular cylinders

Recently, Chatjigeorgiou and Mavrakos (2009, 2010a) provided an analytic solution for the three dimensional wave scattering by arrays of elliptical cylinders. The present paper extends the contents of the existing study to tackle the problem of the hydrodynamic interactions between elliptical and circular cylinders. The main task is to derive an analytic solution for the total velocity potential for an arbitrary body of the array and accordingly, to express the hydrodynamic pressure, the exciting forces and the wave elevation in compact analytic closed-forms.The solution method is rather complicated as it considers the circular cylinders as different geometries and not special cases of elliptical cylinders with zero elliptic eccentricity. Nevertheless, the adopted procedure enhances the mathematical reconstruction of the physical subject as it requires the derivation and the employment of addition theorems that transform expressions from elliptic to polar coordinate systems in all four possible combinations.     

基于高分四号卫星的黄海绿潮漂移速度提取研究

静止轨道卫星高分四号（GF-4）具有高时间分辨率（20 s）和高空间分辨率（50 m）的独特优势。为了挖掘GF-4卫星在海洋灾害监测中的应用潜力,本文基于2016年6月25日1天4景的GF-4卫星影像,利用最大相关系数法（MCC）,开展了黄海绿潮漂移速度提取研究,分析了海面风场、潮汐等对绿潮漂移的影响。研究发现:（1）MCC方法可高精度自动追踪GF-4影像中绿潮的分钟级（8~9 min）位置变化,绿潮漂移速率和方向的相对偏差分别为11%和5%;当2景GF-4影像的成像时间间隔增大至小时级（如6 h）时,随着绿潮斑块形状的改变,MCC方法绿潮自动追踪的准确性下降。（2）绿潮在1天之中的漂移速率和方向可发生显著变化,当日上午9时黄海绿潮漂移速率均值为（0.36±0.13）m/s,方向以东南向为主,至15时,绿潮漂移速率显著增加至（0.69±0.12）m/s,方向变为东北偏北。（3）绿潮漂移速度与海面风速的相关系数为0.74,绿潮漂移方向为风向偏右;绿潮的向岸、离岸运动与相应时刻的涨、落潮具有较好的对应关系。GF-4卫星数据可为绿潮快速漂移的高精度监测提供数据支撑。     

Calculation of the added mass of elliptical cylinders in shallow water

In order to carry out any studies of ship motions, concerning either seakeeping or manoeuvring, it is usually necessary to have knowledge of the added mass of the hull section shapes. In deep water, the added mass can be found using conformal mapping techniques combined with residue calculus, or by means of surface singularity distributions. In shallow water, the need to utilise an infinite number of mirror images, to represent the effects of the seabed and the free surface, precludes the use of the deep-water methods in this case. In a previous paper, the author presented methods to evaluate the added mass of semi-circular sections. In this paper, a quite different but more general technique using Schwarz–Christoffel methods is developed. This technique gives entirely new results for the added mass of elliptical body sections and compares the special case of semi-circular sections with those from the previous paper.     

波浪场中浓度输移扩散Stokes漂移效应的欧拉描述

为了说明波浪场中浓度输移扩散Stokes漂移效应的欧拉描述方法,采用欧拉方法推导了波浪场中波浪周期平均的浓度输移扩散方程,其对流项是由波浪速度的波动和物质浓度的波动相互作用而产生,所含的对流速度恰是Stokes漂移速度。由此说明,波浪场中浓度扩散问题的Stokes漂移效应可以自动的由欧拉法来考虑,所得到的Stokes漂移效应与拉格朗日描述的结果是等价的。为了进一步说明这一问题,将粒子追踪法的拉格朗日描述的Stokes漂移速度与欧拉法的结果进行了对比,二者是一致的。研究中也数值求解了线性波浪场中σ坐标下浓度扩散方程,将浓度的Stokes漂移、浓度分布和粒子追踪法的结果进行了对比,以证明欧拉描述和拉格朗日描述两种方法的等价性。研究中也根据实验结果对实际波浪场中Stokes漂移效应所引起的浓度漂移进行了讨论,解释了物理模型实验中的观察到的波浪场中浓度漂移现象。     

Mean drift forces on an articulated column oscillating in a wave tank

An analytical solution is presented for calculating the regular wave induced respones of an articulated column in a wave tank. Extension of the procedure leads to calculation of second order mean drift forces and moments. Hydrodynamic interaction between a cylindrical column and the parallel walls of the tank is shown theoretically to be highly significant and experimental data are presented to corroborate this finding.     

Contourite identification along Italian margins: The case of the Portofino drift (Ligurian Sea)

A brief review of the published evidence of current deposits around Italy is the occasion to test the robustness of matching bottom current velocity models and seafloor morphologies to identify contourite drifts not yet documented. We present the result of the regional hydrodynamic model MARS3D in the Northern Tyrrhenian and Ligurian Sea with horizontal resolution of 1.2 km and 60 levels with focus on bottom current: data are integrated over summer and winter 2013 as representative of low and high intensity current conditions.The Eastern Ligurian margin is impacted by the Levantine Intermediate Water (LIW) with modeled mean velocity of bottom current up to 20 cm s⁻¹ in winter 2013 and calculated bottom shear stress exceeding 0.2 N m⁻² in water depth of 400–800 m. By crossing this information with seafloor morphology and geometry of seismic reflections, we identify a sediment drift formerly overlooked at ca 1000 m water depth. The Portofino separated mounded drift has a maximum thickness of at least 150 m and occurs in an area of mean current velocity minimum. Independent evidence to support the interpretation include bottom current modelling, seafloor morphology, seismic reflection geometry and sediment core facies. The adjacent areas impacted by stronger bottom currents present features likely resulted from bottom current erosion such as a marine terrace and elongated pockmarks.Compared to former interpretation of seafloor morphology in the study area, our results have an impact on the assessment of marine geohazards: submarine landslides offshore Portofino are small in size and coexist with sediment erosion and preferential accumulation features (sediment drifts) originated by current-dominated sedimentary processes. Furthermore, our results propel a more general discussion about contourite identification in the Italian seas and possible implications.     

An analysis of horizontal dispersion due to the drift current with an Ekman layer

An analytical method for describing horizontal matter dispersion in shear currents is presented using a tensor expression from the point of view that matter dispersion due to the shear effect should be one of the principal mixing dilution processes. Although the behavior of horizontal dispersion is considerably more complicated than common longitudinal dispersion, the present study elucidates the vertical structure of dispersion and the dispersing process from the initial to the stationary stage, besides the usual depth-averaged dispersion coefficient at the stationary stage. As one of the typical applications of horizontal dispersion, dispersion due to the pure drift current with an Ekman layer is examined theoretically using the present method. This examination reveals that the displacement of the centroid and the major axis of dispersion are twisted in the vertical direction more than the direction of the current vector forming the Ekman spiral; that the variance increases in proportion to the third power of the elapsed time; and that the dispersion coefficient at the stationary stage remains constant, independent of the depth normalized by an Ekman layer thickness. Such dependence of the dispersion coefficient in the steady current is shown to be different from that in the oscillatory current, which is inversely proportional to the depth normalized by a Stokes layer thickness. This is considered to be induced by the difference of the vertical profiles of the first order moment in both currents, that is, the shear region of the first order moment is restricted around the floor by the alternation of the current shear in the oscillatory current while it is diffused in the whole depth in the steady current.     

长江口宝钢码头溢油事故油膜漂移扩散数值模拟

溢油事故发生后,油膜的漂移扩散会对周围水域和环境敏感目标造成污染。研究溢油事故后油膜漂移扩散,可为溢油事故的处理提供理论指导。本文应用河口海岸三维水动力模式ECOM-si(semi-implicit estuarine,costal and ocean model),耦合溢油漂移扩散模块,模拟和分析长江口宝钢码头发生溢油事故后油膜的漂移扩散,以及对环境敏感保护目标的影响。基于长江口崇明东滩气象站实测风速风向资料,给出影响溢油漂移的主导风和不利风向。在冬季多年平均1月径流量11700m³·s^–1、主导风、3个不利风和潮汐作用下,数值模拟并详细给出了宝钢码头溢油事故发生后油膜的平面分布、油膜到达和离开4个水库取水口和饮用水水源保护区以及其他环境敏感保护区的时间、持续影响时间和最大油膜厚度。长江口宝钢码头溢油事故发生后,油膜随涨落潮流作上下游来回振荡,径流使油膜向海输运,风使油膜朝风向方向漂移。在主导风北风5.6m³·s^–1风速下,油膜沿长江口南岸向下游漂移扩散,小部分进入北槽南侧。在不利风向东南风4.0...     

Calculation of the added mass of elliptical cylinders with vertical fins in shallow water

In order to carry out any studies of ship motions, concerning either seakeeping or manoeuvring, it is usually necessary to have knowledge of the added mass of the hull section shapes. In deep water, the added mass can be found using conformal mapping techniques combined with residue calculus, or by means of surface singularity distributions. In shallow water, the need to utilise an infinite number of mirror images, to represent the effects of the seabed and the free surface, precludes the use of the deep-water methods in this case. In previous papers, the author presented methods to evaluate the added mass of semi-circular and elliptical body sections. Now, using a similar Schwarz–Christoffel method, the added mass of elliptical body sections with vertical fins in shallow water is evaluated.