近岸破碎波水体掺气及气泡输运过程研究

为准确探讨破碎波作用下气体如何卷入以及气泡的形成与输运特性, 文章结合粒子图像测速技术(particle image velocimetry, PIV)、高速相机和气泡测量系统, 以及基于Navier-Stokes方程的三维数值模型对气泡形成及其运动过程进行研究。研究结果表明: 文章建立的数值模型能合理地捕捉到破碎波作用下气体的卷入及其输运过程; 波浪的破碎会形成较大的气腔, 其破裂过程又将产生大量的气体微团; 气泡会增加水体的紊动, 造成水体与空气交界面附近形成大量的漩涡以及水体的飞溅; 气泡的破裂会消耗大量的水体能量, 同时发现较大的紊动动能与气泡的生成有关, 且气泡数随平均紊动动能的增加呈线性增长关系。     

Large eddy simulation of breaking waves

A numerical model is used to simulate wave breaking, the large scale water motions and turbulence induced by the breaking process. The model consists of a free surface model using the surface markers method combined with a three-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence is described by large eddy simulation where the larger turbulent features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and the small scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model is represented by a sub-grid model. A simple Smagorinsky sub-grid model has been used for the present simulations. The incoming waves are specified by a flux boundary condition. The waves are approaching in the shore-normal direction and are breaking on a plane, constant slope beach. The first few wave periods are simulated by a two-dimensional model in the vertical plane normal to the beach line. The model describes the steepening and the overturning of the wave. At a given instant, the model domain is extended to three dimensions, and the two-dimensional flow field develops spontaneously three-dimensional flow features with turbulent eddies. After a few wave periods, stationary (periodic) conditions are achieved. The surface is still specified to be uniform in the transverse (alongshore) direction, and it is only the flow field that is three-dimensional.The turbulent structures are investigated under different breaker types, spilling, weak plungers and strong plungers. The model is able to reproduce complicated flow phenomena such as obliquely descending eddies. The turbulent kinetic energy is found by averaging over the transverse direction. In spilling breakers, the turbulence is generated in a series of eddies in the shear layer under the surface roller. After the passage of the roller the turbulence spreads downwards. In the strong plunging breaker, the turbulence originates to a large degree from the topologically generated vorticity. The turbulence generated at the plunge point is almost immediately distributed over the entire water depth by large organised vortices. Away from the bed, the length scale of the turbulence (the characteristic size of the eddies resolved by the model) is similar in the horizontal and the vertical direction. It is found to be of the order one half of the water depth.     

Equilibrium beach profiles under breaking and non-breaking waves

Simple theoretical models to determine the equilibrium profile shape under breaking and non-breaking waves are presented. For the case of breaking waves, it is assumed that the seaward transport in the undertow is locally balanced by a net vertical sedimentation, so that no bottom changes occur at equilibrium. The parameterization of the water and sediment flux in the surf zone yields a power curve for the equilibrium profile with a power of 2/3, which is in agreement with previous field investigations on surf zone profile shapes. Three different models were developed to derive the profile shape under non-breaking waves, namely (1) a variational formulation where the wave energy dissipation in the bottom boundary layer is minimized over the part of the profile affected by non-breaking waves, (2) an integration of a small-scale sediment transport formula over a wave period where the slope conditions that yield zero net transport determine equilibrium, and (3) a conceptual formulation of mechanisms for onshore and offshore sediment transport where a balance between the mechanisms defines equilibrium conditions. All three models produced equilibrium profile shapes of power-type with the power typically in the range 0.15–0.30. Comparison with field data supported the results obtained indicating different powers for the equilibrium profile shape under breaking and non-breaking waves.     

Numerical Simulation of Sloshing Using the MPS-FSI Method with Large Eddy Simulation

A numerical model has been developed to study sloshing of turbulent flow in a tank with elastic baffles. The Moving-Particle Semi-implicit method(MPS) is a kind of meshless Lagrangian calculation method. The large eddy simulation(LES) approach is employed to model the turbulence by using the Smagorinsky Sub-Particle Scale(SPS)closure model. This paper uses MPS-FSI method with LES to simulate the interaction between free surface flow and a thin elastic baffle in sloshing. Then, the numerical model is validated, and the numerical solution has good agreement with experimental data for sloshing in a tank with elastic baffles. Furthermore, under external excitations,the MPS is applied to viscous laminar flow and turbulent flow, with both the deformation of elastic baffles and the wave height of the free surface are compared with each other. Besides, the impact pressure with/without baffles and wave height of free surface are investigated and discussed in detail. Finally, preliminary simulations are carried out in the damage problem of elastic baffles, taking the advantage of the MPS-FSI method in computations of the fluid–structure interaction with large deformation.     

Large Eddy Simulation for Plunge Breaker and Sediment Suspension

Breaking waves are a powerful agent for generating turbulence that plays an important role in many fluid dynamical processes, particularly in the mixing of materials. Breaking waves can dislodge sediment and throw it into suspension, which will then be carried by wave-induced steady current and tidal flow. In order to investigate sediment suspension by breaking waves, a numerical model based on large-eddy-simulation (LES) is developed. This numerical model can be used to simulate wave breaking and sediment suspension. The model consists of a free-surface model using the surface marker method combined with a two-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence and the turbulent diffusion are described by a large-eddy-simulation (LES) method where the large turbulence features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and a subgrid model represents the small-scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model. A dynamic eddy viscosity subgrid scale stress model has been used for the     

Unsteady air bubble entrainment and detrainment at a plunging breaker: dominant time scales and similarity of water level variations

At plunging breakers, air bubbles are entrained at the impingement of the water jet, formed at the top of the wave, with the water free surface in front. During the present study, air bubble entrainment at a pseudo-plunging breaker was investigated at near full-scale and further experimental work studied the bubble detrainment process. Experimental observations included the generation and propagation of waves downstream of the plunge point. Experimental results highlighted a number of unsteady air–water flow patterns and emphasise high levels of aeration: i.e., depth-averaged void fraction of more than 10% next to jet impact in shallow waters. Unsteady bubble injection experiments showed a strong vortical motion induced by the rising bubbles. Altogether, the results suggest that a dominant time scale is the bubble rise time d₁/u_r, which cannot be scaled properly with an undistorted Froude model. The study contributes to a better understanding of unsteady bubble entrainment at a pseudo-plunging breaker and the associated vortical circulation.     

Large Eddy Simulation for Wave Breaking in the Surf Zone

In this paper, (he large eddy simulation method is used combined with the marker and cell method to study the wave propagation or shoaling and breaking process. As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling leads lo the increase of wave height, and then at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is a powerful agent for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamic processes throughout the surf zone, such as transformation of wave energy, generation of near-shore current and diffusion of materials. So a proper numerical model for describing the turbulence effect is needed. In this paper, a revised Smagorinsky subgrid-scale mode! is used to describe the turbulence effect. The present study reveals that the coefficient of the Smagorinsky model for wave propagation or breaking simulation may be taken as a varying function of the water depth and distance away from the wave breaking point. The large eddy simulation model presented in this pape     

Large eddy simulation of spilling and plunging breakers

A Navier–Stokes solver with a free surface model is used for simulating wave breaking, undertow, and turbulence in breaking waves. The free surface model is based on the Volume of Fluid concept. Turbulence scales larger than the grid scale are simulated directly while turbulence scales smaller than the grid scale are represented by a sub-grid scale model. Two different approaches for the sub-grid scale model have been applied, which are the Smagorinsky model and a model based on a k-equation for the sub-grid scale turbulence. The waves approach the shore in shore-normal direction and break on a plane constant sloping beach. Periodic spilling and plunging breakers are simulated for 20 and 16 wave periods, respectively. The set-up, undertow, and turbulence levels are compared to experimental results. Despite the rather coarse resolution of the computational domain, satisfactory results for the wave height decay and undertow have been obtained. However, the turbulence levels are over-predicted when using the standard values of the model parameters and a complete answer to this problem has not been found. Furthermore, the evolution of vorticity over the wave period has been studied. It shows that at the initial breaking point vorticity is generated around the vertical as well as around the transverse axis. Later vorticity around the longitudinal axis (offshore–onshore direction) is generated, probably through deformation of vorticity around the other axis.     

大涡模拟及其在海洋湍流数值模拟中的应用

本文概述了大涡模拟的定义及特征,介绍了大涡模拟的几种常用方法以及它在海洋湍流场数值模拟中的应用,并指出了一些尚待改进的问题。     

Three-dimensional reversed horseshoe vortex structures under broken solitary waves

Turbulent vortical structures under broken solitary waves are studied using three-dimensional smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method. The numerical model predicts water surface evolution and horizontal velocity very well in comparison with the experimental results. The numerical results detect organized coherent structures characterized as reversed horseshoe (hairpin) vortices being generated at the back of the broken spilling wave and traveling downward. The counter rotating legs of the reversed horseshoe structures appear to be a continuous form of the previously found obliquely descending eddies. The reversed horseshoe structures are associated with the turbulence motion of sweep events (downwelling motion) and transport momentum and turbulent kinetic energy downward into the water column. Vortex turning play an important role on the generation and evolution of three dimensional reversed horseshoe structures from the spanwise breaking wave rollers.     

Dispersal of droplets over breaking wind waves under the direct action of wind

This paper describes the dispersal of droplets over breaking wind waves under the direct action of wind, based on a comparison between the actual distribution of droplet velocity and the wind field measured in a wind-wave tank (reference wind speed 16 m sec^–1). The velocity distribution of droplets with a diameterd>0.81 mm over breaking wind waves was measured by Koga (1981). In this paper the wind field over breaking wind waves is measured by a flow visualization technique using styrofoam flakes as a tracer. The comparison allows a clear interpretation of droplet movement over the wave profile, and shows that the horizontal movement of the droplets ofd>0.81 mm is approximately determined by acceleration by the wind while their vertical movement is determined by acceleration due to gravity. These observations offer some support for the dispersion model proposed by Koga and Toba (1981).     

Experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action

The present study describes an experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action. In a wind wave flume, waves were generated using different wind speeds and measured at different locations to obtain wave trains of no, intermittent, or frequent breaking. Water particle movement and free surface elevation were measured simultaneously using a PIV system and a wave gauge, respectively. For wind waves, not all the waves measured at a fixed location are breaking waves, and the breaking of a larger wave is not guaranteed. However, the larger the wave height, the larger the probability of breaking. In order to take as many breaking waves as possible for the cases of frequent breaking, we used the waves whose heights were close to the highest one-tenth wave height. The experimental results showed that the geometric or kinematic breaking criteria could not explain the occurrence of breaking of wind waves. On the other hand, the vertical acceleration beneath the wave crest was close to the previously suggested limit value, −0.5g, when frequent breaking of large waves occurred, indicating that the dynamic breaking criterion would be good for discriminating breaking waves under a strong wind action.     

Laboratory study of deep-water breaking waves

In an attempt to elucidate the mechanics of deep-water wave breaking, a variety of breaking waves, including spilling and plunging waves, of different length scales and geometries was studied. The waves were generated through wave-wave interactions using wave packets with constant-steepness components, constant-amplitude components, and also components following the Pierson-Moskowitz distribution. Wave steepening prior to breaking were found to cause an increase in the high frequency spectral slope of the wave spectrum. The slopes were correlated to the type of breaking and the intensity of the breaking. The energy loss through breaking varied with the spectral characteristics of the wave packet. On the other hand, it was also noted that, irrespective of the wave packet, the losses were from the higher frequency end of the first harmonics.     

Large Eddy Simulation on Interaction Between in-Line and Cross-Flow Oscillation of A Circular Cylinder

This paper discusses numerical results from three-dimensional large eddy simulations of an oscillating cylinder under prescribed movements in uniform flow. Six cases,namely pure in-line,pure cross-flow and two groups of 'Figure of Eight' oscillation patterns are under investigation at Reynolds number Re=24000. The 'Figure of Eight' pattern in each group is with identical shape but opposite orbital directions. The numerical results on hydrodynamic forces,higher order force components,and vortex shedding mode...     

Simulation of the ocean surface mixed layer under the wave breaking

A one-dimensional mixed-layer model, including a Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure scheme, was implemented to investigate the dynamical and thermal structures of the ocean surface mixed layer in the northern South China Sea. The turbulent kinetic energy released through wave breaking was incorporated into the model as a source of energy at the ocean surface, and the influence of the breaking waves on the mixed layer was studied. The numerical simulations show that the simulated SST is overestimated in summer without the breaking waves. However, the cooler SST is simulated when the effect of the breaking waves is considered, the corresponding discrepancy with the observed data decreases up to 20% and the MLD calculated averagely deepens 3.8 m. Owing to the wave-enhanced turbulence mixing in the summertime, the stratification at the bottom of the mixed layer was modified and the temperature gradient spread throughout the whole thermocline compared with the concentrated distribution without wave breaking.     

Prediction of breaking waves with neural networks

The height of a wave at the time of its breaking, as well as the depth of water in which it breaks, are the two basic parameters that are required as input in design exercises involving wave breaking. Currently the designers obtain these values with the help of graphical procedures and empirical equations. An alternative to this in the form of a neural network is presented in this paper. The networks were trained by combining the existing deterministic relations with a random component. The trained network was validated with the help of fresh laboratory observations. The validation results confirmed usefulness of the neural network approach for this application. The predicted breaking height and water depth were more accurate than those obtained traditionally through empirical schemes. Introduction of a random component in network training was found to yield better forecasts in some validation cases.     

卷破波作用下沙质岸滩剖面形态判别式初探

通过波浪水槽实验,开展不同类型波浪作用下的沙质岸滩演化规律研究工作。本次实验研究不考虑比尺,采用1:10与1:20组成的复合沙质斜坡对岸滩进行概化,选取规则波和椭圆余弦波两种典型波浪作用,对波浪的传播、变形和破碎、上爬、回落过程以及波浪作用前后沙质岸滩床面地形进行了观测,探讨波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面演化规律。本文实验工况中,规则波作用下,岸滩剖面呈现出沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面,椭圆余弦波作用下的岸滩剖面均呈滩肩形态,发现岸滩剖面形态不仅与波浪作用类型、强度、周期等因素相关,还与波浪破碎的强度等因素有关。通过对实验过程中现象的进行观察和分析,引入了卷破波水舌冲击角的概念。对波浪卷破破碎后形成的水流挟沙运动与岸滩剖面形态的关系进行定性分析,对水舌冲击角与Irribarren参数之间的关系进行定量分析,基于Irribarren参数与岸滩剖面形态的关系初步建立了波浪作用下沙质岸滩剖面形态判别关系式。通过本文实验结果和前人实验结果对趋势线进行拟合,求得其判别系数,判别式能够较好地划分淤积型岸滩、侵蚀型岸滩及过渡型岸滩三种岸滩形态。