Dynamic properties of green water event in the overtopping of extreme waves on a fixed dock

A statistical model is developed to predict wave overtopping volume and rate of extreme waves on a fixed deck. The probability density function for the volume and rate of overtopping water are formulated based on the truncated Weibull distribution with the assumption of local sinusoidal profile for small amplitude waves. Sensitivity to the wave nonlinearity parameter and deck clearance is discussed. The statistical model is compared to laboratory data of the instantaneous free surface elevation measured in front of a fixed deck, and overtopping volume and overtopping rate measured at the leading edge of the deck. The statistical theory compared well with the measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck. The model prediction of the exceedance probability of deck overtopping gave qualitatively good agreement for large overtopping values.     

Numerical modeling of water waves with the SPH method

Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) is a relatively new method for examining the propagation of highly nonlinear and breaking waves. At Johns Hopkins University, we have been working since 2000 to develop an engineering tool using this technique. However, there have been some difficulties in taking the model from examples using a small number of particles to more elaborate and better resolved cases.Several improvements that we have implemented are presented here to handle turbulence, the fluid viscosity and density, and a different time-stepping algorithm is used. The final model is shown to be able to model breaking waves on beaches in two and three dimensions, green water overtopping of decks, and wave–structure interaction.     

斜向和多向不规则波对直立堤平均越浪量研究

通过三维波浪模型试验研究了斜向和多向不规则波对直立堤的越浪量。分别按平均越浪量和单波最大越浪量进行研究,探讨了平均越浪量随相对堤高、波浪方向、波浪方向分布宽度、波陡和相对水深等影响因素的变化规律,导得了斜向和多向不规则波作用于直立堤上的平均越浪量的计算公式。     

Numerical simulation of wave overtopping of coastal structures using the non-linear shallow water equations

A one-dimensional high-resolution finite volume model capable of simulating storm waves propagating in the coastal surf zone and overtopping a sea wall is presented. The model (AMAZON) is based on solving the non-linear shallow water (NLSW) equations. A modern upwind scheme of the Godunov-type using an HLL approximate Riemann solver is described which captures bore waves in both transcritical and supercritical flows. By employing a finite volume formulation, the method can be implemented on an irregular, structured, boundary-fitted computational mesh. The use of the NLSW equations to model wave overtopping is computationally efficient and practically flexible, though the detailed structure of wave breaking is of course ignored. It is shown that wave overtopping at a vertical wall may also be approximately modelled by representing the wall as a steep bed slope. The AMAZON model solutions have been compared with analytical solutions and laboratory data for wave overtopping at sloping and vertical seawalls and good agreement has been found. The model requires more verification tests for irregular waves before its application as a generic design tool.     

波浪与多孔介质结构相互作用SPH模拟

应用经CSPM法和黎曼解修正后的光滑粒子流体动力学(SPH)方法,建立了主动吸收无反射数值波浪水槽,研究波浪作用下多孔介质结构的水动力特性。流体运动控制方程采用N-S方程,多孔渗水结构内流体的运动控制方程考虑渗流力的影响。数值计算结果给出了水槽内不同位置测点的波面历时曲线和越浪量随时间变化曲线,并同试验结果和Philip Liu的数值计算结果进行了比较。并对一个波浪周期内斜坡堤多孔介质结构内外的速度场和压力分布进行了讨论分析。计算分析表明,数值计算波面较Philip Liu的计算结果与试验结果吻合更好。说明应用SPH方法建立的二维数学模型能够较好地模拟破碎波在多孔渗水斜坡上的爬坡和越浪。     

The applicability of the shallow water equations for modelling violent wave overtopping

The shallow water equations (SWE) have been used to model a series of experiments examining violent wave overtopping of a near-vertical sloping structure with impacting wave conditions. A finite volume scheme was used to solve the shallow water equations. A monotonic reconstruction method was applied to eliminate spurious oscillations and ensure proper treatment of bed slope terms. Both the numerical results and physical observations of the water surface closely followed the relevant Rayleigh probability distributions. However, the numerical model overestimated the wave heights and suffered from the lack of dispersion within the shallow water equations. Comparisons made on dimensionless parameters for the overtopping discharge and percentage of waves overtopping between the numerical model and the experimental observations indicated that for the lesser impacting waves, the shallow water equations perform satisfactorily and provide a good alternative to computationally more expensive methods.     

Numerical investigations of wave overtopping at coastal structures

Under the numerical modelling work package of the EU funded CLASH project, the time accurate, free surface capturing, incompressible Navier–Stokes solver AMAZON-SC has been applied to study impulsive wave overtopping at Samphire Hoe, near Dover in the United Kingdom. The simulations show that the overtopping process on this vertical, sheet pile, seawall is dominated by impulsive, aerated, near vertical overtopping jets. In order to perform the simulations AMAZON-SC has been extended to incorporate an isotropic porosity model and for validation purposes the solver has been applied to study overtopping of a low crested sea dike and a 10:1 battered wall. The results obtained for the battered wall and Samphire Hoe tests are in good agreement both with predicted overtopping discharges calculated using the UK overtopping manual and with available experimental results.     

Numerical analysis of wave overtopping of rubble mound breakwaters

The paper describes the results of a two-dimensional (2-D) numerical modelling investigation of the functionality of rubble mound breakwaters with special attention focused on wave overtopping processes. The model, COBRAS-UC, is a new version of the COBRAS (Cornell Breaking Waves and Structures) based on the Volume Averaged Reynolds Average Navier–Stokes (VARANS) equations and uses a Volume of Fluid Technique (VOF) method to capture the free surface. The nature of the model equations and solving technique provides a means to simulate wave reflection, run-up, wave breaking on the slope, transmission through rubble mounds, overtopping and agitation at the protected side due to the combined effect of wave transmission and overtopping. Also, two-dimensional experimental studies are carried out to investigate the performance of the model. The computations of the free surface and pressure time series and spectra under regular and irregular waves, are compared with the experimental data reaching a very good agreement. The model is also used to reproduce instantaneous and average wave overtopping discharge. Comparisons with existing semi-empirical formulae and experimental data show a very good performance. The present model is expected to become in the near future an excellent tool for practical applications.     

Numerical Simulation of Random Wave Overtopping of Rubble Mound Breakwater with Armor Units

Based on the open source code OpenFOAM,a three-dimensional model is presented for simulation of the interaction between waves and rubble mound breakwater with armor units.The armor units with their real geometries are depicted through computational grids.The volume-averaged RANS equation and the seepage equation containing nonlinear term are used to describe the percolation in the core and underlayer of the breakwater.Grids independence analysis are carried out,the horizontal and vertical grid size are recommended to take as one-fifteenth of the mean nominal diameter D₅₀ of the armor units and one-fifteenth of the wave height respectively.Random wave overtopping of rubble mound breakwater with armor units is simulated through the proposed model.The results show good agreement between the simulated and measured overtopping discharge rates for different types of armor units.The developed numerical model can be used to evaluate the random wave overtopping in design of rubble mound breakwater with artificial armor blocs.     

斜向和多向不规则波在斜坡堤上的平均越浪量的试验研究

通过三维物理模型试验研究了在斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波在非破碎条件下的平均越浪量与波浪参数及堤参数的关系.着重考察了波浪以小角度(0°~30°)斜向入射时平均越浪量的变化情况,肯定了多向波的越浪量在这一范围内有所谓“小角度斜向增加”的现象,但否定了单向波也具有这一现象.在考察波浪的方向分布影响时发现波浪斜向入射时多向波的越浪量往往要比单向波的大.比较了已有的相关研究成果,给出了适用于混凝土护面和扭工字块体护面斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波的平均越浪量的估算公式.     

斜向和多向不规则波在斜坡堤上的单波越浪量的实验研究

通过三维物理模型实验对斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波的单波越浪量进行了研究.实验考察了入射方向为0°~45°的斜向波和方向分布宽度为0°~25°的多向波以及混凝土和扭工字块体两种护面形式.在混凝土护面堤上用Weibull分布函数拟合了单波越浪量的累积频率分布,在影响因素不同的条件下确定了分布函数中的系数和越浪比例,给出了计算单波越浪量的公式,同时对扭工字块体护面堤上大约100个波中最大的单波越浪量进行了估算.     

Predictions on Irregular Wave run-up and Overtopping

A series of hydraulic model tests are carried out to investigate random wave run-up and overtopping on smooth, impermeable single slope and composite slope. Based on analysis of the influences of wave steepness, structure slope, incident wave angle, width of the berm and water depth on the berm and the wave run-up, empirical formulas for wave run-up on dike are proposed. Moreover, empirical formula on estimating the wave run-up on composite slope with multiple berms is presented for practical application of complex dike cross-section. The present study shows that the influence factors for wave overtopping are almost the same as those for wave run-up and the trend of the wave overtopping variation with main influence parameters is also similar to that for wave run-up. The trend of the wave overtopping discharge variations can be well described by two main factors, i.e. the wave run-up and the crest freeboard of the structure. A new prediction method for wave overtopping discharge is proposed for random waves. The proposed prediction formulas are applied to case study of over forty cases and the results show that the prediction methods are good enough for practical design purposes.     

孤立波低顶海堤越浪的数值模拟研究

灾害性波浪是中国沿海地区最具破坏性的自然灾害之一。采用开源程序OpenFOAM中interFoam求解器,对低顶海堤（在风暴潮和海平面上升情况下所面临的不利工况）的孤立波越浪特性开展数值模拟研究。通过孤立波冲击海堤的基准算例,验证模型在模拟波浪爬升和越浪过程中大变形波面以及剧烈波浪力方面的精度。基于验证的数值模型,对孤立波在低顶海堤上的越浪特征以及防浪墙高度对越浪的影响开展参数化研究。结果表明堤顶超高减小导致更为剧烈的越浪。针对尚无低顶海堤孤立波越浪量经验公式的问题,提出新的适用于堤顶超高小或为0的孤立波越浪量经验公式。此外,研究发现增加防浪墙高度可有效减少越浪,但防浪墙所受的波浪力也增大。综合考虑防浪墙减少越浪以及自身所受波浪力,针对文中研究采用的海堤截面和波浪条件,建议无量纲防浪墙高度取为1.00。     

Green water overtopping analyzed with a SPH model

Wave overtopping on the decks of offshore platforms and ships can cause severe damage due to the high forces generated by the water. This phenomenon is analyzed within the framework of the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method. The presence of a fixed horizontal deck above the mean water level modifies strongly the wave kinematics. In particular, the flow in the wave crest is split into two, showing a different behavior above and below the deck. Numerical results generated by the SPH method are compared to laboratory experiments. The formation of a jet in the rear of the deck after overtopping is observed under extreme conditions.     

Numerical simulation of irregular wave overtopping against a smooth sea dike

Based on the filtered Navier-Stokes equations and Smagorinsky turbulence model,a numerical wave flume is developed to investigate the overtopping process of irregular waves over smooth sea dikes.Simulations of fully nonlinear standing wave and regular wave’s run-up on a sea dike are carried out to validate the implementation of the numerical wave flume with wave generation and absorbing modules.To model stationary ergodic stochastic processes,several cases with different random seeds are computed for each specified irregular wave spectrum.It turns out that the statistical mean overtopping discharge shows good agreement with empirical formulas,other numerical results and experimental data.     

Random wave runup and overtopping a steep sea wall: Shallow-water and Boussinesq modelling with generalised breaking and wall impact algorithms validated against laboratory and field measurements

A semi-implicit shallow-water and Boussinesq model has been developed to account for random wave breaking, impact and overtopping of steep sea walls including recurves. At a given time breaking is said to occur if the wave height to water depth ratio for each individual wave exceeds a critical value of 0.6 and the Boussinesq terms are simply switched off. The example is presented of waves breaking over an offshore reef and then ceasing to break as they propagate inshore into deeper water and finally break as they run up a slope. This is not possible with the conventional criterion of a single onset of breaking based on rate of change of surface elevation which was also found to be less effective generally. The runup distribution on the slope inshore of the reef was well predicted. The model is tested against field data for overtopping available for Anchorsholme, Blackpool and corresponding 1:15 scale wave flume tests. Reflection of breaking waves impacting a steep sea wall is represented as a partial reversal of momentum flux with an empirically defined coefficient. Offshore to nearshore significant wave height variation was reasonably predicted although nearshore model spectra showed distinct differences from the experiments. The breaking wave shape described by a shape parameter was also not well represented as might be expected for such a simple model. Overtopping agreement between model, field and flume was generally good although repeatability of two nominally identical flume experiments was only within 25%. Different distributions of random phase between spectral components can cause overall overtopping rates to differ by up to a factor of two. Predictions of mean discharge by EurOtop methods were within a factor of two of experimental measurements.     

Experimental Study of Perforated Caisson Breakwater

This paper describes the design of a perforated caisson breakwater and presents the results of model test. Tests with regular and irregular waves have demonstrated that the perforated caisson breakwater has the advantages of low reflection coefficient, good wave-absorbing performance, relatively small wave height in front of the breakwater, and small amount of overtopping. Analyses have been made of the coefficient of reflection, wave height in front of the breakwater, and wave overtopping. Relevant figures and tables are presented for reference.     

A numerical model of wave overtopping on seadikes

This paper describes the development of a numerical model for wave overtopping on seadikes. The model is based on the flux-conservative form of the nonlinear shallow water equations (NLSW) solved with a high order total variation diminishing (TVD), Roe-type scheme. The goal is to reliably predict the hydrodynamics of wave overtopping on the dike crest and along the inner slope, necessary for the breach modelling of seadikes. Besides the mean overtopping rate, the capability of simulating individual overtopping events is also required. It is shown theoretically that the effect of wave breaking through the drastic motion of surface rollers in the surfzone is not sufficiently described by the conventional nonlinear shallow water equations, neglecting wave setup from the mean water level and thus markedly reducing the model predictive capacity for wave overtopping. This is significantly improved by including an additional source term associated with the roller energy dissipation in the depth-averaged momentum equation. The developed model has been validated against four existing laboratory datasets of wave overtopping on dikes. The first two sets are to validate the roller term performance in improving the model prediction of wave overtopping of breaking waves. The last two sets are to test the model performance under more complex but realistic hydraulic and slope geometric conditions. The results confirm the merit of the supplemented roller term and also demonstrate that the model is robust and reliable for the prediction of wave overtopping on seadikes.     

基于格子Boltzmann方法的斜坡堤越浪数值模拟研究

准确确定越浪量对于斜坡堤设计有重要意义。利用格子Boltzmann方法(LBM),并采用主动吸收式速度入口造波、出流边界消波、VOF方法追踪自由表面以及静态Smagorinsky模型模拟紊流运动,建立二维数值波浪水槽,对光滑斜坡堤上规则波与不规则波越浪进行数值模拟。模拟结果与试验值及其他数值模型结果比较表明,二维LBM数值波浪水槽具有模拟斜坡堤越浪的能力,但对于破碎较为剧烈的越浪过程模拟,该模型还存在一定的不足,未来可从提高自由表面模型精度等方面进一步改善其性能。     

Three-dimensional investigations of wave overtopping on rubble mound structures

To study the influence of wave obliquity and directional spreading on wave overtopping of rubble mound breakwaters a total of 736 three-dimensional model tests were carried out at Aalborg University. The results of these tests are presented and analysed in this paper yielding a new empirical reduction factor to describe the influence of wave obliquity and directional spreading on the average wave overtopping discharges. The study shows that perpendicularly incident, long-crested waves result in conservative values of the overtopping discharge for the tested cross-section.