Numerical modelling of the morphological response induced by low-crested structures in Lido di Dante,Italy

This paper analyses the morphological response induced by low-crested structures on the adjacent seabed, with particular interest in the erosion patterns that frequently develop at gaps and roundheads. The mechanisms responsible for erosion processes are examined by means of morphodynamic simulations with the numerical suite MIKE 21 CAMS developed by DHI Water & Environment. The main purpose of the paper is to verify how and how far a commercial code can predict bed evolution, in vicinity of defence structures in a real case, in order to get information that may be very useful for structure design and possible maintenance of existing works. The code is applied to a long-term simulation on a study site that is characterized by a composite intervention and suffers from severe erosion, Lido di Dante (Italy). The simulation covers the period (one year and a half) between two available multi-beam surveys, in order to have a detailed real bathymetry as starting point and another one, as accurate as the first, to compare numerical with surveyed results. All the other input data for the model, as waves, tide, wind and sediment characteristics, are derived from measurements in the area; moreover, the code is calibrated using wave and current data acquired during a field campaign. The bed evolution derived from simulations shows a good agreement with the survey both in the locations and in the intensity of erosive and depositional areas. A sensitivity analysis of results to some selected modelling parameters is performed on a shorter simulation period (one month), showing that accounting for bed slope in sediment transport modelling has greater effects in bathymetry evolution than the use of a complex sediment bathymetry or the representation of wave diffraction.     

Analysis of far-field erosion induced by low-crested rubble-mound structures

This paper focuses on the analysis of the morphological response induced by low-crested structures on the adjacent seabed, with emphasis on the far-field erosion that is frequently observed close to roundheads and at the gaps between structures. The analysis is based on observations of far-field erosion, both at prototype scale and in laboratory experiments. Mechanisms responsible for the observed erosion are highlighted using coastal area numerical modelling tools to simulate the flow patterns induced by schemes involving low-crested structures. Finally, an example of the use of a coastal area morphological modelling system to investigate the dependence of the far-field erosion processes on the freeboard of the coastal protection structures is presented and discussed.     

Environmental design of coastal defence in Lido di Dante,Italy

The aim of the paper is to present an integrated design of a coastal defence, by applying the knowledge gained within DELOS (EVK3-CT-2000-00041, www.delos.unibo.it) to an existing prototype case. For such purposes, Lido di Dante (Ravenna, Italy) was selected, being a well-documented site that suffers from severe erosion.The design method proposed follows the Design Guidelines for low-crested structures delivered by DELOS. After a preliminary analysis of the environmental context and constraints, different design alternatives were proposed and then modelled with the 2DH model suite MIKE 21 for representative hydrodynamics and meteorological conditions. Engineering, ecological and social effects of each alternative are then assessed, based on the results of numerical simulations and experience in the area. A global judgement of the alternatives is given including consideration of both construction and maintenance costs. The preferred scheme is then optimised through more detailed design and verified by numerical modelling. The need for such an integrated approach is finally discussed including limitations.     

近岸波浪和波生流环境中泥沙输运的数值模拟

Owing to lack of observational data and accurate definition,it is difficult to distinguish the Kuroshio intrusion water from the Pacific Ocean into the South China Sea(SCS).By using a passive tracer to identify the Kuroshio water based on an observation-validated three-dimensional numerical model MITgcm,the spatio-temporal variation of the Kuroshio intrusion water into the SCS has been investigated.Our result shows the Kuroshio intrusion is of distinct seasonal variation in both horizontal and vertical directions.In winter,the intruding Kuroshio water reaches the farthest,almost occupying the area from 18°N to 23°N and 114°E to 121°E,with a small branch flowing towards the Taiwan Strait.The intrusion region of the Kuroshio water decreases with depth gradually.However,in summer,the Kuroshio water is confined to the east of 118°E without any branch reaching the Taiwan Strait;meanwhile the intrusion region of the Kuroshio water increases from the surface to the depth about 205 m,then it decreases with depth.The estimated annual mean of Kuroshio Intrusion Transport(KIT) via the Luzon Strait is westward to the SCS in an amount of –3.86×106 m3/s,which is larger than the annual mean of Luzon Strait Transport(LST) of –3.15×106 m3/s.The KIT above 250 m accounts for 60%–80% of the LST throughout the entire water column.By analyzing interannual variation of the Kuroshio intrusion from the year 2003 to 2012,we find that the Kuroshio branch flowing into the Taiwan Strait is the weaker in winter of La Ni?a years than those in El Ni?o and normal years,which may be attributed to the wind stress curl off the southeast China then.Furthermore,the KIT correlates the Ni?o 3.4 index from 2003 to 2012 with a correlation coefficient of 0.41,which is lower than that of the LST with the Ni?o 3.4 index,i.e.,0.78.     

近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟

针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。     

Evaluation of two spectral wave models for wave hindcasting in the Mackenzie Delta

Climate change, reduced sea ice and increased ice-free waters over extended areas for longer summer periods potentially lead to increased wave energy in the Beaufort Sea (Wang et al., 2015; Khon et al., 2014) [1], [2], which is a major concern for coastal and offshore engineering activities. We compare two spectral wave models SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) and MIKE 21 SW (hereafter MIKE21) in simulations of storm-generated waves in the Mackenzie Delta region of the southern Beaufort Sea. SWAN model simulations are performed using two nested grids system, whereas MIKE21 uses an unstructured grid system. Forcing fields are defined by hourly hindcast winds. Moving ice edge boundaries are incorporated during storm simulations. Modelled wave spectra from four storms are shown to compare well with field observations. Two established whitecapping formulations in SWAN are investigated: one dependent on mean spectral wave steepness, and the other on local spectral steepness. For the Beaufort Sea study area, we suggest that SWAN wave simulations using the latter local spectral steepness formulation are better than those using the former mean spectral steepness formulation. MIKE21 simulations also tend to agree with SWAN results using the latter whitecapping formulation.     

Short-term (≤2 yrs) estuarine mudflat and saltmarsh sedimentation: High-resolution data from ultrasonic altimetery, rod surface-elevation table, and filter traps

Rates of short-term (up to 2 years) bed elevation change and sedimentation from mudflats to salt marshes were measured in a rapidly infilling macrotidal estuary using an original combination of three high-resolution techniques: an ultrasonic altimeter, the Rod Surface-Elevation Table (RSET) method, and filter traps. The Authie estuary is located on a straight, sand-rich coast and is undergoing rapid infill under the influence of flood-dominant tides reinforced by wave action. The estuarine sediment suite consists of both mud and sand derived from the sea, of sand derived from storm wave erosion of dunes lining the north bank of the estuary, and, to a much smaller extent, of mud from the river catchment. Bed elevation change and sedimentation rates show an expected increase with the duration of tidal flooding (hydroperiod) in both space and time. The estuarine bed sediment suite changes from sandy at the mouth to muddy within the low-energy inner estuary, where mudflats are rapidly accreting, paving the way for the formation of increasingly denser and mature salt marshes from the high-sedimentation pioneer zone to the upper marsh where annual sedimentation is very low. Recorded variability in rates of bed elevation change and sedimentation reflect the influence of estuarine macro-scale and local sediment transport and depositional processes in a macrotidal context dominated by high inputs of allochthonous sediments.     

江苏条子泥岸滩剖面形态的时空异质性

在江苏条子泥岸滩选择3个典型剖面，对其进行了3a定期的观测，将所得剖面数据绘制成剖面形态曲线。通过对岸滩剖面形态的分析，发现3a来岸滩冲淤变化明显，岸滩剖面形态内部及其相互间都有变化，呈现不同的类型。探讨了其变化的机制，包括自然因素和人为因素。主要的研究结果将丰富人们对江苏条子泥近期岸滩及辐射沙洲演变的认识，为条子泥促淤并陆和海岸防护等工程提供科学依据。     

东海和凯尔特海潮流沙脊的对比研究

东海潮流沙脊与凯尔特海沙脊均为开阔陆架上的大型深水沙脊，它们都形成在冰后期海面上升时期。目前仍然经受现代潮流和风暴浪的作用，具有一定的活动性，处于活动沙脊和衰亡沙脊之间的发育过程，属于准活动沙脊。与东海比较，凯尔特海的动力作用更强。东海沙脊横剖面大多呈向西南方向倾斜的前积层理，偶见波浪侵蚀面，反映以潮流作用为主形成的沙脊内部结构的特点；凯尔特海沙脊剖面呈现复杂的交错层理，内部有较多的波浪侵蚀面，这是潮流和波浪共同作用形成的沙脊内部结构的特点。     

风暴过程中潮滩悬沙浓度和悬沙输运的变化及其动力机制——以长江三角洲南汇潮滩为例

悬沙浓度是淤泥质海岸重要的环境指标。为探讨潮滩悬沙浓度和悬沙输运对风暴事件的响应过程及其动力机制,于2014年9月"凤凰"台风过境前、中、后在长江三角洲南汇潮滩进行了现场观测,获得同步高分辨率的水深、波高、近底流速和浊度剖面时间序列(9个潮周期)。结果表明,风暴中平均和最大波高、波-流联合底床剪切应力、悬沙浓度和悬沙输运率可比平静天气高数倍;风暴期间高潮位低流速阶段悬沙沉降导致近底发育数十厘米厚的浮泥层(悬沙浓度大于10 g/L)。研究认为风暴事件中淤泥质海岸悬沙浓度和悬沙输运的剧烈变化其根本动力机制是风暴把巨大能量传递给近岸水体,进而显著增大波-流联合底床剪切应力,导致细颗粒泥沙再悬浮。     

A numerical model of beach morphological evolution due to waves and currents in the vicinity of coastal structures

A numerical model was developed of beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. The model includes five sub-models for random wave transformation, surface roller development, nearshore wave-induced currents, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. The model was validated using high-quality data sets obtained during experiments with a T-head groin and a detached breakwater in the basin of the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, Miss, USA. The simulations showed that the model reproduced well the wave conditions, wave-induced currents, and beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. Both salient and tombolo formation behind a T-head groin and a detached breakwater were simulated with good agreement compared to the measurements.     

Numerical modelling of erosion and accretion of plane sloping beaches at different scales

The paper focuses on the numerical simulation of erosion of plane sloping beaches by irregular wave attack in three wave flumes of different scales. One of the prime objectives of the tests was to provide a consistent data set for the improvement of numerical beach profile models. A practical application of this research with wave attack on plane sloping beaches is the erosion of the plane beaches after nourishment. Three models (CROSMOR, UNIBEST-TC and DELFT3D) have been used to simulate the flume experimental results focusing on the wave height distribution and the morphological development (erosion and deposition) along the beach profiles. Overall, the model predictions for wave heights show consistent results. Generally, the computed wave heights (H_rms and H_1/3) are within 10% to 15% of the measured values for all tests (under-prediction of the largest wave heights close to the shore). The three models can simulate the beach erosion of the wave flume tests (erosive tests) reasonably well using default values of the sand transport parameters. The model performance for the accretive tests is less good than that for the erosive tests. A practical field application of this research is the erosion of nourished beaches, as these beaches generally have rather plane beach slopes immediately after nourishment. Various graphs are given to estimate the beach erosion of nourished beaches.     

Coastal defence through wave farms

The possibility of using wave farms for coastal defence warrants investigation because wave energy is poised to become a major renewable in many countries over the next decades. The fundamental question in this regard is whether a wave farm can be used to reduce beach erosion under storm conditions. If the answer to this question is positive, then a wave farm can have coastal defence as a subsidiary function, in addition to its primary role of producing carbon-free energy. The objective of this work is to address this question by comparing the response of a beach in the face of a storm in two scenarios: with and without the wave farm. For this comparison a set of ad hoc impact indicators is developed: the bed level impact (BLI), beach face eroded area (FEA), non-dimensional erosion reduction (NER), and mean cumulative eroded area (CEA); and their values are determined by means of two coupled models: a high-resolution wave propagation model (SWAN) and a coastal processes model (XBeach). The study is conducted through a case study: Perranporth Beach (UK). Backed by a well-developed dune system, Perranporth has a bar between − 5 m and − 10 m. The results show that the wave farm reduces the eroded volume by as much as 50% and thus contributes effectively to coastal protection. This synergy between marine renewable energy and coastal defence may well contribute to improving the viability of wave farms through savings in conventional coastal protection.     

Numerical modelling of sand beach evolution around coastal structures

I~crIOWIn the coastal area, especially at the sandy seashore, wave and nearshore current are the major factors which affect sediment transPOrt and the motyhChdynamics.The numerical models of predicting the beach evolution can be classified intO the medi~term and long-term models according to their space and time scales (De Briend et al., 1993;Watanabe, 1990; Watanabe et al., 1986; Tao, 1996). In the medium-term model the effects ofwave, nearshore current and sediment transport are conside…     

厦门岛海滩剖面对9914号台风大浪波动力的快速响应

根据 9914号台风发生前后对厦门岛滨岸海滩剖面地形的重复测量结果及有关台风要素和潮位的实测资料 ,探讨了台风袭击厦门岛期间海滩的变形特征和侵蚀状态。分析得出 ,海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击普遍发生急剧变化。横向冲淤变形以东岸海滩为最剧烈 :滩肩蚀退可达 2 5m ;滩面呈上冲下淤 ,上段和滩肩的单宽冲蚀量达 30m3 /m ;下段单宽淤积量达 17m3 /m ;剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变。这种变形特点是在台风大浪波动力和潮位暴涨的双重作用下造成的。台风期间 ,沿岸输沙能力以北岸最高 ,南岸次之 ,东岸较低 ;且自南岸到东岸 ,随着沿岸输沙量减少 ,横向变形相应有增大的趋势。这是9914号台风以偏东方向袭击厦门的结果。表明不同方向海岸岸滩地形对同一台风大浪波动力作用具有不同响应特征。     

The influence of beach porosity on wave uprush and backwash

Packwood, A.R., 1983. The influence of beach porosity on wave uprush and backwash. Coastal Eng., 7: 29–40.A numerical model is described to calculate the influence of a porous bed on the run-up of a bore on a gently sloping sandy beach. It is shown that fine-medium grade sands have very little effect in the run-up phase. Significant differences between impermeable and porous bed solutions are found in the backwash which might explain certain sand erosion and deposition phenomena.     

波浪与带窄缝多箱体作用共振现象的模拟研究

针对波浪与带有窄缝多箱体结构作用产生的流体共振问题,建立了基于域内源造波技术的二维非线性时域数值波浪水槽模型,其中自由水面满足完全非线性运动学和动力学边界条件,窄缝内流体引入人工阻尼来等效由于涡旋运动和流动分离引起的黏性耗散,计算域边界采用高阶边界元进行离散。通过模拟三箱体间两窄缝内相对波高变化,并与已发表的数值与实验结果对比,验证了本模型的准确性。同时通过大量的数值计算,分析了箱体数量对窄缝内水体共振频率、共振波高以及对结构反射波高和透射波高的影响。     

沙质海岸波浪动床模型设计—毛里塔尼亚友谊港下游冲刷试验模型

本文结合毛里塔尼亚友谊港下游冲刷模型的试验研究探讨了海岸波浪动床模型的相似律和试验波浪要素的确定。作者推导获得了同时满足波浪作用下岸滩剖面冲淤相似、沿程冲淤部位相似、泥沙起动相似和沉降相似的综合相似比尺公式：λρｓ－ρ＝λ＾１／３ｌ．λ＾１／６Ｄ；λｄ＝（λＤ／λｔ）＾２／３解决了波浪冲刷动床模型的基本相似问题和砂的选砂问题。对于常浪向与强浪向不一致的海岸，作者提出了采用综合考虑波高、波周期（或波     

Wave farm impact on the beach profile: A case study

If wave energy is to become a fully-fledged renewable, its environmental impacts must be fully understood. The objective of the present work is to examine the impact of a wave farm on the beach profile through a case study. The methodology is based on two coupled numerical models: a nearshore wave propagation model and a morphodynamic model, which are run in two scenarios, both with and without the wave farm. Wave data from a nearby coastal buoy are used to prescribe the boundary conditions. A positive effect on the wave climate, the cross-shore sediment transport and, consequently, the evolution of the beach profile itself due to the presence of the wave farm was found. The wave farm leads to a reduction in the erosion of the beach face. This work constitutes the first stage of the investigation of the effectiveness of a wave farm as a coastal defence measure, and the accuracy of the quantification of the erosion reduction will be enhanced in future research. In any case, the overarching picture that emerges is that wave farms, in addition to providing carbon-free energy, can be used as elements of a coastal defence scheme.     

Sand spit rhythmic development: A potential record of wave climate variations? Arçay Spit, western coast of France

This study aims at showing the sedimentary and geomorphological records of wave climate variations by spits. The studied spit (Arçay Spit) is located on the French Atlantic coast and has displayed a rapid elongation since the beginning of the 19th century that potentially represents a two century-long wave climate record. Wave climate and spit growth relationships are studied from two complementary methods: (1) numerical modelling of wave and longshore transport temporal and spatial variabilities, and (2) morphological monitoring based on the analysis of 4 historical maps (1811–1945), 8 aerial photographs (1945–2000) and 17 satellite SPOT images (1987–2005).Results at seasonal to interannual time-scales show that the sand spit area gain variations are the result of variations in longshore transport, themselves modulated mainly by wave height. Moreover, energetic swells seem to cause massive sand accumulation and spit elongation, whereas less energetic swells appear to be responsible for small sand accumulation and spit curvature. At longer time scale (decades to centuries), increasing spit growth phases are also synchronised with periods of energetic swells or high storm surge frequency. These results suggest that wave climate variations are the main factor controlling spit morphological evolutions.