Generation of random waves in time-dependent extended mild-slope equations using a source function method

We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary.     

Extended mild-slope equation for random waves

A time-dependent extended mild-slope equation is derived from the elliptic equation of Chamberlain and Porter [J. Fluid Mech. 291 (1995) 393] using the Taylor series technique. Numerical tests are made on a horizontally one-dimensional case for regular waves over sloping beds and for both regular and irregular waves over a ripple patch. Numerical results prove that the proposed model gives accurate results for both regular and irregular waves over rapidly varying topography.     

Effect of higher-order bottom variation terms on the refraction of water waves in the extended mild-slope equations

This study investigates how the refraction of water waves is affected by the higher-order bottom effect terms proportional to the square of bottom slope and to the bottom curvature in the extended mild-slope equations. Numerical analyses are performed on two cases of waves propagating over a circular shoal and over a circular hollow. Numerical results are analyzed using the eikonal equation derived from the wave equations and the wave ray tracing technique. It is found that the higher-order bottom effect terms change the wavelength and, in turn, change the refraction of waves over a variable depth. In the case of waves over a circular shoal, the higher-order bottom effects increase the wavelength along the rim of shoal more than near the center of shoal, and intensify the degree of wave refraction. However, the discontinuity of higher-order bottom effects along the rim of shoal disperses the foci of wave rays. As a result, the amplification of wave energy behind the shoal is reduced. Conversely, in the case of waves over a circular hollow, the higher-order bottom effects decrease the wavelength near the center of the hollow in comparison with the case of neglecting higher-order bottom effects. Consequently, the degree of wave refraction is decreased, and the spreading of wave energy behind the hollow is reduced.     

一种推广的缓坡方程

从流体力学基本方程出发，假定水流的涡量和垂向流速分量小量，推导出考虑非均匀水流的推广的缓坡方程，该方程中包含了△h^2h项和（△hh)^2项。在方程中引入底摩擦项、风能输入项和非线性项，其中风能输入项的推导考虑了风浪与涌浪的区别，风流情况依据青岛海洋大学的风浪成长经验关系，涌浪情况依据Snyder等人的观测结果。经过上述推广后，得到综合考虑折射、绕射、反射、非均匀水流、底摩擦损耗、风能输入及波浪非线性的推广的缓坡方程。     

An extended time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation with weakly nonlinear amplitude dispersion

In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone.     

Internal generation of waves for extended Boussinesq equations

It is studied whether the mass transport or energy transport is the proper viewpoint for internally generating waves in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu [J. Waterw., Port, Coastal Ocean Eng. 119 (1993) 618–638]. Numerical solutions of the Boussinesq equations with the internal generation of sinusoidal waves show that the energy transport approach yields the required wave amplitude properly while the mass transport approach yields wave amplitude different from the required one by the ratio of phase velocity to energy velocity. The waves which pass through the wave generation point do not cause any numerical distortion while the incident waves are generated. The technique of internal generation of waves shows its capability of generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear sinusoidal waves.     

A time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation

On the basis of the previous studies, the simplest hyperbolic mild-slope equation has been gained and the linear time-dependent numerical model for the water wave propagation has been established combined with different boundary conditions. Through computing the effective surface displacement and transforming into the real transient wave motion, related wave factors will be calculated. Compared with Lin’s model, analysis shows that calculation stability of the present model is enhanced efficiently, because the truncation errors of this model are only contributed by the dissipation terms, but those of Lin’s model are induced by the convection terms, dissipation terms and source terms. The tests show that the present model succeeds the merit in Lin’s model and the computational program is simpler, the computational time is shorter, and the computational stability is enhanced efficiently. The present model has the capability of simulating transient wave motion by correctly predicting at the speed of wave propagation, which is important for the real-time forecast of the arrival time of surface waves generated in the deep sea. The model is validated against analytical solution for wave diffraction and experimental data for combined wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope. Good agreements are obtained. The model can be applied to the theory research an d engineering applications about the wave propagation in a biggish area.     

A new kind of nonlinear mild-slope equation for combined refraction-diffraction of multifrequency waves

This paper presents the numerical solution of a new nonlinear mild-slope equation governing waves with different frequency components propagating in a region of varying water depth. There are two new nonlinear equations. The linear part of the equations is the mild-slope equation, and one of the models has the same non-linearity as the Boussinesq equations. The new equations are directly applicable to the problems of nonlinear wave-wave interactions over variable depth. The equations are first simplified with the parabolic approximation, and then solved numerically with a finite difference method. The Crank-Nicolson method is used to discretize the models. The numerical models are applied to a set of published experimental cases, which are nonlinear combined refraction-diffraction with generation of higher harmonic waves. Comparison of the results shows that the present models generally predict the measurements better than other nonlinear numerical models which have been applied to the data set.     

On the internal wave generation in Boussinesq and mild-slope equations

The literature contains empirical knowledge on whether the wave celerity or the group velocity should be used in the line source function for internal wave generation for at given set of Boussinesq or mild-slope equations. Theoretical derivations that confirm and explain these empirical findings are devised. For Boussinesq equations with, e.g. Padé[2,2]-type of dispersion relation some procedures for internal wave generation are affected by their excitation of an evanescent mode. This has some undesirable consequences, but the evanescent-mode excitation can be avoided by the use of an “internal flux boundary”.     

Simulation of small-amplitude frequency-dispersive transient waves by means of the mild-slope equation

A numerical model based on the mild-slope equation is applied to reproduce the propagation of small-amplitude transient waves. The model makes use of the Fourier Transform to convert the time-dependent hyperbolic equation into a set of elliptic equations in the frequency domain. The results of two available experimental studies on tsunamis generated by landslides are used to validate the model, which appears to be able of carefully reproducing the effects of the frequency dispersion. An example application of tsunamis propagating around the Stromboli island is also presented to show the applicability of the present approach to real life scenarios. It is finally discussed how this model could be applied as support to a tsunami early warning system.     

Numerical implementation and sensitivity analysis of a wave energy converter in a time-dependent mild-slope equation model

Several Wave Energy Converters (abbreviated as WECs) have intensively been studied and developed during the last decade and currently small farms of WECs are getting installed. WECs in a farm are partly absorbing, partly redistributing the incident wave power. Consequently, the power absorption of each individual WEC in a farm is affected by its neighbouring WECs. The knowledge of the wave climate around the WEC is needed to predict its performance in the farm. In this paper a technique is developed to implement a single and multiple WECs based on the overtopping principle in a time-dependent mild-slope equation model. So far, the mild-slope equations have been widely used to study wave transformations around coastal and offshore structures, such as breakwaters, piles of windmills and offshore platforms. First the limitations of the WEC implementation are discussed through a sensitivity analysis. Next the developed approach is applied to study the wave height reduction behind a single WEC and a farm. The wake behind an isolated WEC is investigated for uni- and multidirectional waves; it is observed that an increase of the directional spread leads to a faster wave redistribution behind the WEC. Further the wake in the lee of multiple WECs is calculated for two different farm lay-outs, i.e. an aligned grid and a staggered grid, by adapting the performance of each WEC to its incident wave power. The evolved technique is a fast tool to find the optimal lay-out of WECs in a farm and to study the possible influence on surrounding activities in the sea.     

A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves

ＡｎｏｎｌｉｎｅａｒｍｏｄｅｌｆｏｒｎｏｎｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｓｈｏａｌｉｎｇｒａｎｄｏｍｗａｖｅｓＬｉｕＸｉｎ＇ａｎ,ＨｕａｎｇＰｅｉｊｉ,ＣｈｅｎＸｕｅｙｉｎｇ,ＨｕＺｅｊｉａｎ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＯｃｔｏｂｅｒ１５,１９９６,ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＡｕｇｕ...     

未破碎变浅随机海浪的非线性模式

利用实测和实验室数据分析了未破碎变浅海浪波面高度分布三阶矩(或波面偏度)相对于Hs/d的空间演化,利用本文的经验关系,在二阶近似下,给出了以Hs/d为参量的非线性波面表示模式,并推导了功率谱、二阶谱以及波面高度分布函数等特征量.文中还讨论了波面偏度和峰度的相关关系.     

Comparison of wave statistics obtained by using continuous and digitized form of random waves

The paper presents the comparison of wave statistics for the Karwar area of Karnataka Coast, India, obtained by using a continuous form of random waves recorded on a strip chart recorder, and the digitized form of the same random waves. The digitization is done manually at 2-sec intervals. It is observed that for a record of 100 waves, the difference (or errors) in the various wave statistics like etc. are within a reasonable limit of disagreement. Hence, the digitized data can be used to obtain the wave statistics after applying a correction factor. Only two records have been analysed due to non-availability of data.     

Bottom friction beneath random waves

The effect of random waves on the bottom friction is studied by assuming that the wave motion is a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process. The approach is also based on simple explicit friction coefficient formulas for sinusoidal waves. The probability distribution functions of the maximum bottom shear stress for laminar flow as well as smooth turbulent and rough turbulent flow are presented. The maximum bottom shear stress follows the Rayleigh distribution for laminar flow and the Weibull distribution for smooth turbulent and rough turbulent flow. Some characteristic statistical values of the maximum bottom shear stress for the three flow regimes are also given.     

Note on conservation equations for nonlinear surface waves

Euler's equations of motion in conjunction with the dynamic boundary condition are manipulated to obtain exact (and approximate) alternative momentum equations for nonlinear irrotational surface waves. The Airy and Boussinesq equations are re-derived as demonstrative examples. A fully nonlinear version of the improved Boussinesq equations is presented as a new application of the proposed equations. Further use of the equations in developing depth-integrated wave models, which are not necessarily restricted to finite depths, is also pointed out.     

Probability density functions for non-linear random waves and responses

Non-linear waves have been a research topic for a long time, but have not yet entered common ocean engineering practice. In this article the problem of calculating the probability density function (pdf) for non-linear waves is investigated. The ‘saddle point approximation’ is applied to a second-order wave model to estimate the pdf. The performance of the approximation is compared with the performances of the more commonly used methods for different types of input spectra. In addition, a non-parametric transformation method, with extrapolation of the level crossing intensity, is proposed to estimate the pdf. One simulation and three different data sets are used to investigate the performance of the model.     

Two sets of higher-order Boussinesq-type equations for water waves

Based on the classical Boussinesq model by Peregrine [Peregrine, D.H., 1967. Long waves on a beach. J. Fluid Mech. 27 (4), 815–827], two parameters are introduced to improve dispersion and linear shoaling characteristics. The higher order non-linear terms are added to the modified Boussinesq equations. The non-linearity of the Boussinesq model is analyzed. A parameter related to h/L₀ is used to improve the quadratic transfer function in relatively deep water. Since the dispersion characteristic of the modified Boussinesq equations with two parameters is only equal to the second-order Padé expansion of the linear dispersion relation, further improvement is done by introducing a new velocity vector to replace the depth-averaged one in the modified Boussinesq equations. The dispersion characteristic of the further modified Boussinesq equations is accurate to the fourth-order Padé approximation of the linear dispersion relation. Compared to the modified Boussinesq equations, the accuracy of quadratic transfer functions is improved and the shoaling characteristic of the equations has higher accuracy from shallow water to deep water.     

A new method for the generation of second-order random waves

In order to prevent the generation of spurious free sub- and superharmonics of random waves in a laboratory channel, the control signal for the wave board has to be derived according to a higher-order wave theory. An expression for this control signal has been derived with the perturbation method of multiple scales. It is much less complex and requires less computation time than the expressions obtained from the full second-order theory. The new method for second-order subharmonics was verified experimentally for waves with bichromatic and continuous first-order spectra. The data were analysed with the complex-harmonic principal-component analysis to reduce the influence of noise.     

SWAN波浪模型和缓坡方程在0903号台风“莲花”波浪数值计算中的联合应用

为了提高近岸台风浪模拟的精度和效率,选取台湾海峡及其邻近海域为研究区域,以0903号台风“莲花”为例,采用大、小网格嵌套的SWAN波浪模型和抛物型近似缓坡方程联合应用的方法模拟了此台风浪场的分布特征.将验证点的计算值与浮标实测值进行对比,峰值的最大绝对偏差为0.89 m,整个模拟过程的平均绝对偏差为0.45 m,平均相对偏差在20％以内,整体模拟效果良好.为了便于分析模拟结果,选取了2009年6月20日23时、21日08时、21日14时3个典型时刻的模拟结果进行对比分析.其结果表明:(1)随着台风中心的北移,研究区域内风浪逐渐占据绝对主导地位,风与波浪的变化趋势更加吻合.21日08时泉州湾内最大风速约15 m/s,湾口的最大波高为2.8m;至21日14时台风中心逼近泉州湾口,湾内最大风速增大至20 m/s,湾口最大波高迅速增至4.4m,模拟结果与实际情况相吻合.(2)在台风中心逼近泉州祥芝中心渔港时港区受台风影响最大,但受该渔港东侧防波堤的阻挡,波浪较难进入避风水域,仅从堤头绕射进入港内,港内波高约为0.2m,港外最大波高达到2.3 m,受到东向浪侵袭时港内避风条件较好.上述结果表明,SWAN波浪模型和缓坡方程联合应用在台湾海峡及其邻近海域的台风浪数值计算中具有良好的适应性.