Seafloor character and sedimentary processes in eastern Long Island Sound and western Block Island Sound

Multibeam bathymetric data and seismic-reflection profiles collected in eastern Long Island Sound and western Block Island Sound reveal previously unrecognized glacial features and modern bedforms. Glacial features include an ice-sculptured bedrock surface, a newly identified recessional moraine, exposed glaciolacustrine sediments, and remnants of stagnant-ice-contact deposits. Modern bedforms include fields of transverse sand waves, barchanoid waves, giant scour depressions, and pockmarks. Bedform asymmetry and scour around obstructions indicate that net sediment transport is westward across the northern part of the study area near Fishers Island, and eastward across the southern part near Great Gull Island.     

Measurement of sediment resuspension rates in Long Island Sound

Resuspension rates have been measured on Long Island Sound sediments (New York/Connecticut, USA) under an oscillating grid, using a flume, and in place, using high frequency acoustics, transmissometers, and sediment traps. Despite differences, the results compare favorably. The methods all provide an order-of-magnitude estimate of the resuspension rate and increases under storm conditions can be estimated.     

Characteristics of bottom dissolved oxygen in Long Island Sound,New York

The variability of bottom dissolved oxygen (DO) in Long Island Sound, New York, is examined using water quality monitoring data collected by the Connecticut Department of Environmental Protection from 1995 to 2004. Self-organizing map analysis indicates that hypoxia always occurs in the Narrows during summer and less frequently in the Western and the Central Basins. The primary factor controlling the bottom DO, changes spatially and temporally. For non-summer seasons, the levels of bottom DO are strongly associated with water temperature, which means DO availability is primarily driven by solubility. During summer, stratification intensifies under weak wind conditions and bottom DO starts to decrease and deviate from the saturation level except for stations in the Eastern Basin. For the westernmost and shallow (<15 m) stations, bottom DO is correlated with the density stratification (represented by difference between surface and bottom density). In contrast, at deep stations (>20 m), the relationship between oxygen depletion and stratification is not significant. For stations located west of the Central Basin, bottom DO continues to decrease during summer until it reaches its minimum when bottom temperature is around 19–20 °C. In most cases the recovery to saturation levels at the beginning of fall is fast, but not necessarily associated with increased wind mixing. Therefore, we propose that the DO recovery may be a manifestation of either the reduced microbial activity combined with the depletion of organic matter or horizontal exchange. Hypoxic volume is weakly correlated to the summer wind speed, spring total nitrogen, spring chlorophyll a, and maximum river discharge. When all variables are combined in a multiple regression, the coefficient of determination (r²) is 0.92. Surprisingly, the weakest variable is the total nitrogen, because when it is excluded the coefficient r² only drops to 0.84. Spring bloom seems to be an important source of organic carbon pool and biological uptake of oxygen plays a more crucial role in the seasonal evolution of bottom DO than previously thought. Our results indicate that the reassessment phase of the Long Island Sound Total Maximum Daily Load policy on nitrogen loading will most likely fail, because it ignores the contributions of the spring organic carbon pool and river discharge. Also, it is questionable whether the goal of 58.5% anthropogenic nitrogen load reduction is enough.     

Estuarine sediment transport by gravity-driven movement of the nepheloid layer, Long Island Sound

Interpretation of sidescan-sonar imagery provides evidence that down-slope gravity-driven movement of the nepheloid layer constitutes an important mode of transporting sediment into the basins of north-central Long Island Sound, a major US East Coast estuary. In the Western Basin, this transport mechanism has formed dendritic drainage systems characterized by branching patterns of low backscatter on the seafloor that exceed 7.4 km in length and progressively widen down-slope, reaching widths of over 0.6 km at their southern distal ends. Although much smaller, dendritic patterns of similar morphology are also present in the northwestern part of the Central Basin. Because many contaminants display affinities for adsorption onto fine-grained sediments, and because the Sound is affected by seasonal hypoxia, mechanisms and dispersal pathways by which inorganic and organic sediments are remobilized and transported impact the eventual fate of the contaminants and environmental health of the estuary.     

Spatial and temporal variation in the abundance and composition of ichthyoplankton in a large South Island,New Zealand river estuary

Larval and juvenile fish drifting on ebb tides were collected from early summer to mid autumn at various locations in the Taieri River and Waipori River estuary, South Island, New Zealand. A total of seven species of fish were recorded, however only three species were regularly collected. These were the larval common bully (Gobiomorphus cotidianus McDowall), larval inanga (Galaxias maculatus Jenyns), and postlarval cockabully (Tripterygion nigripenne Valenciennes). Common bully densities were highest in mid January, with the highest densities being recorded drifting out of Lake Waihola. Inanga densities were highest in March and April, with the highest densities being recorded in the channels draining wetland areas where extensive tidal inundation of riparian vegetation occurred. Cockabully were recorded from February to April, mostly at more downstream sites. Inland penetration by marine species was considerable, with two marine species, clingfish (Trachelochismus pinnulatus Forster) and smooth leatherjacket (Parika scaber Forster), being recorded c. 12 km upstream in late summer.     

The intertidal erosion rate of cohesive sediment: a case study from Long Island Sound

Over the past decades, many attempts have been made to generate useful bottom erosion models for the study of cohesive sediment movement. This study addresses some of the key questions involved in determining the functional relationship between erosion rate and bottom shear stress. Current, wave, and turbidity data were collected from a bottom mounted instrument array in a moderately energetic estuarine environment. The bottom shear stress was calculated from a wave–current interaction model. The erosion rate was derived from the observed sediment concentration using a vertical mixing model. Examination of the relationship between erosion rate and bottom stress showed that the erosion rate varied at intertidal frequency. When averaged over the tidal fluctuation, the erosion rate remained approximately constant at low stress, but increased sharply when the shear stress rose above a critical value. This suggests two-stage erosion. The bed has a layered structure, in which a thin layer of loose, high water content material overlies a more consolidated bed. The top layer of high water content material (fluff) was easily disturbed and re-suspended by tidal currents, but the consolidated bottom layer was eroded only under conditions of high shear stress.     

Sources,deposition rates and decomposition of organic carbon in recent sediment of Sachem Head Harbor,Long Island Sound

The vertical distributions of excess ²¹⁰Pb and fall out ^{239, 240}Pu imply a uniform sedimentation rate of 1·4–1·6 cm year^?1 from 0 to 105–110 cm. This sediment accumulation rate is compatible with sulfate reduction rate data from this location. Below 70 cm only ‘aged’ refractory carbon is present (C_R = 1·8% C) with an age of approximately 2400 years. This phase is present in a number of locations across Long Island Sound. Planktonic carbon (C_P) is present above the 60–67 cm horizon. A value of 1·0 for A_P (¹⁴C activity) at 32–37 cm was taken, A_P = 1·285 was used for contemporary plankton. This was obtained by correcting the measured A_P of a plankton tow sample for admixed refractory carbon. These values were then used to calculate C_R, C_P and C_F (fossil carbon) at 32–37 cm and 6–12 cm. The only values compatible with the known sulfate reduction rate data are C_R equal to pre 60–67 cm levels (1·6–1·8% C), C_F being 0·3% C at both depths, and C_P decreasing with depth from 0·3 to 0·4% C at 6–12 cm to close to zero at 32–37 cm.     

Relationships between water-column stratification,phytoplankton cell size and copepod fecundity in Long Island Sound and off central Chile

Changes in phytoplankton abundance and size brought on by changes in water-column stratification are shown to affect copepod fecundity. The response of copepods to changes in their food environment, as manifested by changes in rates of egg production, is compared for two different time-scales: seasonal-to-weekly in Long Island Sound, New York, and event-scale-to-daily off the coast of central Chile. The data sets discussed include a time-series of hydrographic and chlorophyll samples along with measurements of copepod egg production (made using an incubation technique) carried out each week in Long Island Sound during 1985 and a 25-day time-series of daily measurements of the same variables at a fixed station in the nearshore coastal upwelling zone off Concepción, Chile, in January 1986. Egg production was often low, suggesting food-limitation. Temporal variations in the fecundity of the copepods Temora longicornis and Acarlia tonsa in Long Island Sound did not follow changes in total phytoplankton biomass, but rather changes in the concentration of chlorophyll in the > 10 μm and > 20 μm size fractions. Off Chile, changes in fecundity of Calanus chilensis mirrored changes in both total phytoplankton biomass and the > 20 μm size fraction. This fact demonstrates that herbivorous copepods follow closely changes in their food environment and suggests that there is a close coupling between food quality of phytoplankton (in terms of particle size), ingestion and egg production by adult females.     

海南东方近岸海底活动沙波的地球物理特征及其迁移机制

海南东方近岸海底发育有大量沙波,利用多波束测深、侧扫声呐、浅地层剖面、单道地震资料综合分析了活动沙波的地球物理特征,探讨了沙波的分布特征、迁移机制、活动性及形态演变特征。结果表明,研究区海底沙波分布和规模具有显著空间差异性,大中型沙波主要发育于沙脊上,小型沙波主要发育于沙脊两侧,坑槽区发育近对称沙波,研究区西南部沙波不发育。受潮流和科氏力约束,在海底沙脊西侧沙波迁移方向主要为向北（略偏东）,在沙脊东侧主要为向南（略偏西）;受地形制约,坑槽区近对称沙波迁移可能停止或方向发生改变。沙波活动性强的标志主要包括：① 形态呈不对称的“脊尖槽缓”,② 叠置小沙波与沙纹发育,③ 浅部有透明层,④ 陡坡面反射模糊,⑤ 内部斜交前积结构。分析认为,沙波活动性与其形态密切相关,包括弱运动、强运动、不运动3个演变阶段。     

空间互相关方法在分析海底沙波迁移规律中的应用

海底沙波具有显著的活动性并能够对海底工程设施造成潜在威胁,因此对海底沙波活动性的评估一直以来受到广泛关注。目前大多数研究者仍利用平面剖面对比来分析海底沙波的迁移特征。然而,该方法难以全面高效地获取海底沙波二维平面迁移矢量。本文基于2007年和2009年的高分辨率多波束测深数据,详细阐述了空间互相关方法在分析北部湾东南海域海底沙波迁移规律中的应用过程。利用实测数据进行对比分析,获得了研究区海底沙波的活动特征,并进一步讨论了空间互相关算法中不同参数的选取对结果的影响。结果显示,利用空间互相关分析方法能够有效获取海底沙波二维迁移矢量,获得的海底沙波迁移速率和迁移方向与前人研究成果吻合,表明了该方法的可行性和可靠性。但在对实际DTM数据进行空间互相关分析时,需根据海底沙波形态、数据质量等因素选取合适的参数及矢量获取方法。本研究实验了一种确定海底沙波迁移规律的新方法,该方法将有效提升获得海底地形变化规律的效率和准确度,可获得更加精细的海底地形动力过程。     

Relative abundance, age, growth, and fecundity of grubby Myoxocephalus aenaeus in Niantic River and Niantic Bay, Long Island Sound

Grubby (Myoxocephalus aenaeus, Cottidae) is a common benthic fish of inshore waters and estuaries of eastern Long Island Sound; however, little information exists on their life history or population demographics. This study utilised a long-term data series (1976–2002) to assess grubby life history and population demographics and explores trends in the Niantic River and Niantic Bay populations. In addition, we examined the age, size, and fecundity of adult grubby in 2001–02 to determine the population characteristics in the region. Mean grubby catch per unit effort (CPUE) in Niantic Bay ranged from 0.4 per trawl in 1976 to 2.9 per trawl in 1984 while river CPUE ranged from 0.4 per trawl in 1977 to 7.6 per trawl in 1989. Catch of grubby in bottom trawls varied seasonally with highest CPUE occurring in winter. Highest entrainment of grubby larvae occurred in 2001 while the lowest entrainment observed was in 1991. Four age classes, 0+ through III+, were derived from otolith analysis (N = 51) although length frequency analysis suggested the possibility of older fish in the population. The total number of eggs in ovaries ranged from 286 to 16 451 for grubby (N = 64) between 52 mm and 155 mm TL. Results of this study indicated a decline in abundance of adult grubby over the 26-year period, possibly related to concurrent declines in eelgrass (Zostera marina) abundance and/or increased water temperature.     

Internal waves and intense mixing periods in a partially stratified estuary

The results of an echo-sounding survey of the Tees estuary are presented. Intense mixing periods, characterized by a surface layer of increasing salinity and thickness, were observed on the ebb tide and were preceded by periods of internal wave activity. Previously, it had been conjectured that similar mixing periods were caused by the breaking of upstream-travelling internal waves. The present survey, however, reveals that the observed waves were travelling down-stream and indicates that the mixing was principally due to a series of bridges. The times of the onset of mixed water at various stations in the estuary were consistent with the production of mixing from about the time of high water, with subsequent advection downstream. The mixing produced in this way, and by similar structures in other estuaries, clearly needs to be quantified.     

Turbidity limits gas exchange in a large macrotidal estuary

In estuaries, the gas transfer velocity (k) is driven by a combination of two major physical drivers, wind and water current. The k values for CO₂ in the macrotidal Gironde Estuary were obtained from 159 simultaneous pCO₂ and floating chamber flux measurements. Values of k increased with wind speed and were significantly greater when water currents and wind were in opposing directions. At low wind speeds (<1 m s⁻¹), k increased with water current velocities (0–1.5 m s⁻¹) following an exponential trend. The latter was a good proxy for the Y-intercept in a generic equation for k versus wind speed in estuaries. We also found that, in this turbid estuary, k was significantly lower at high turbidity. The presence of suspended material in great concentrations (TSS > 0.2 g L⁻¹) had a significant role in attenuating turbulence and therefore gas exchange. This result has important consequences for modeling water oxygenation in estuarine turbidity maxima. For seven low turbidity estuaries previously described in the literature, the slope of the linear regression between k and wind speed correlates very well with the estuary surface area due to a fetch effect. In the Gironde Estuary, this slope follows the same trend at low turbidity (TSS < 0.2 g L⁻¹), but is on average significantly lower than in other large estuaries and decreases linearly with the TSS concentration. A new generic equation for estuaries is proposed that gives k as a function of water current velocity, wind speed, estuarine surface area and TSS concentration.     

海坛岛芦洋浦平原的海进沙与风沙层序

本文研究了福建海坛岛芦洋浦平原的海进沙与风沙层序。结果表明,芦洋浦平原原是一个水深20～30m、走向NNE的海湾,全新世初期的海进沙层厚2～5m覆盖在陆相冲积和风化层上。后来,海平面波动,从台湾海峡推来残留沙超覆其上。经一段时间的正常环境后,距今约2400～2000a,由于地球气候的变化,风沙逐渐发育,厚5～10m的风沙层埋盖了海湾沉积,建造了面积68km~2的大沙坪和半封闭的泻湖。     

Large sand waves in Navarinsky Canyon head,Bering Sea

Sand waves are present in the heads of large submarine canyons in the northwestern Bering Sea. They vary in height between 2 to 15 m and have wavelengths of 600 m. They are not only expressed on the seafloor, but are also well defined in the subsurface and resemble enormous climbing bed forms. We conjecture that the sand waves originated during lower stands of sea level in the Pleistocene. Although we cannot explain the mechanics of formation of the sand waves, internal-wave generated currents are among four types of current that could account for these large structures.     

Morphodynamic behaviour of a mixed sand–gravel ebb-tidal delta: Deben estuary,Suffolk, UK

The morphodynamics of inlets and ebb-tidal deltas reflect the interaction between wave and tidal current-driven sediment transport and significantly influence the behaviour of adjacent shorelines. Studies of inlet morphodynamics have tended to focus on sand-dominated coastlines and reference to gravel-dominated or ‘gravel-rich’ inlets is rare. This work characterises and conceptualises the morphodynamics of a meso-tidal sand–gravel inlet at the mouth of the Deben estuary, southeast England. Behaviour of the inlet and ebb-tidal delta over the last 200 yr is analysed with respect to planform configuration and bathymetry. The estuary inlet is historically dynamic, with ebb-tidal shoals exhibiting broadly cyclic behaviour on a 10 to 30 yr timescale. Quantification of inlet parameters for the most recent cycle (1981–2003) indicate an average ebb delta volume of 1 × 10⁶ m³ and inlet cross-sectional area of 775 m². Bypassing volumes provide a direct indicator of annual longshore sediment transport rate over this most recent cycle of 30–40 × 10³ m³ yr^− 1. Short-term increases in total ebb-tidal delta volume are linked to annual variability in the north to northeasterly wind climate. The sediment bypassing mechanism operating in the Deben inlet is comparable to the ‘ebb delta breaching’ model of FitzGerald [FitzGerald, D.M., 1988. Shoreline erosional–depositional processes associated with tidal inlets, in: Aubrey, D.G., Weishar, L. (Ed.), Hydrodynamics and Sediment Dynamics of Tidal Inlets. Springer-Verlag Inc., New York, pp. 186–225.], although the scales and rates of change exhibited are notably different to sand-dominated systems. A systematic review of empirical models of sand-dominated inlet and ebb-tidal delta morphodynamics (e.g. those of [O'Brien, M.P., 1931. Estuary tidal prisms related to entrance areas. Civil Engineering, 1, 738–739.; Walton, T.L., and Adams, W.D., 1976. Capacity of inlet outer bars to store sand. Proceedings of 15th Coastal Engineering Conference, 1919–1937.; Gaudiano, D.J., Kana, T.W., 2001. Shoal bypassing in mixed energy inlets: geomorphic variables and empirical predictions for nine South Carolina inlets. J. Coast. Res., 17, (2), 280–291.]) shows the Deben system to be significantly smaller yet characterised by a longer bypassing cycle than would be expected for its tidal prism. This is attributed to its coarse-grained sedimentology and the lower efficiency of sediment transporting processes.     

Nonlinear tidal waves in a kind of estuary with gradually varying cross-section

-Nonlinear tidal waves in a kind of estuary are studied in the paper using one-dimensional nonlinear hydrody-namic equations with friction. The estuary has exponentially varying width B=B0 e-bx and uniform depth h. The one-dimensional hydrodynamic equations are solved by perturbation method. It was found that our solution included two special cases, Pelisenpeki's solution and Airy's solution. The former can be got by letting b=0 in our solutions, and the latter by setting 6 = 0 and f= 0 (f is linear frictional coefficient). In terms of the second-order solution, the physical mechanism of nonlinear tidal waves in estuaries with gradually varying cross-section is explored. It is shown that, under the assumption of linear friction coefficient, shallow water constituent waves consist of two parts, one is produced by shallow water nonlinear effect outside the estuary, the other is generated by shallow water nonlinear effect inside estuary. In addition, the physical mechanism of the residual tidal current and     

Long non-linear waves in a confined basin, induced by transient atmospheric disturbances

In the non-linear statement, the paper studies long waves induced in a confined basin of variable depth by a low atmospheric pressure area, translating at constant speed over the basin. The study is conducted in terms of a non-stationary finite-difference model. Emphasis is made on the behaviour of the wave process after the departure of the disturbance. The dependence of the modal composition of fluid oscillations on the basin parameters and baric disturbances is determined. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Sedimentation of terrigenous red soils in coastal area adjacent to an estuary and coral reefs,the Okkubi River estuary,Okinawa Island,Japan

Sedimentation process of fine-grained terrigenous red soils was observed on the seafloor by coral reefs near an estuary using a paired mooring of turbidity meter and sediment trap or a mooring of sediment trap and current meter. Silty clays contained in the bottom calcareous sands were mainly resuspended and trapped in both surface and bottom layer traps, at noncatastrophic normal sedimentation periods. In addition, silty clays were supplied to this mooring site by inflowing river. Turbidity and the flux rate determined by sediment traps show certain relationship accompanied with the coefficient, which is changed by precipitation, current, and other conditions. Resuspension process caused by a typhoon was recorded as both core sequence of sediment trap and time-series data of bottom current. Maximum velocity of 49.5 cm/s was recorded from bottom currents resulting from the passing of attyphoon at the mooring site. A graded sand layer is interbedded in dark-gray, silty clay and considered to be a resuspended sediment resulting from the passing of the typhoon. Flux of the resuspended sediments by the typhoon was estimated from this core sequence and compared to the flux observed at the normal sedimentation.