Erosive processes on the shore platform of northeast Yorkshire,England

Different processes erode the plane and ramp, the two morphological elements of the shore platform. On the plane, desiccation of the shale causes contraction of the clay lattices in intertidal periods but wetting by the flood tides produces expansion. These movements crack the shale bedding laminae into polygons about 2 cm in diameter which are removed by waves. Desiccation is enhanced in well-drained areas and there is a positive correlation between altitude and erosion rate producing the smooth-sub-horizontal plane. Erosion is highest during summer. It averages 0.1 cm year^?1 but ranges from 0.0 to 0.9 cm year^?1.Corrasion is the main erosive process on the ramp. It is most active during winter, the stormy season, but is influenced by beach depth and possibly grain size. A shallow sand and pebble beach less than 5 cm deep allows erosion at all times. Beach depth is the most important influence on corrasion if it brings the ramp within 5 cm of the surface at some times and buries it more than 13.5 cm deep at others. Wave energy is the most important variable if the beach is usually more than 13.5 cm deep. Erosion rates for the zones of 0–5 cm depth, 5–13.5 cm depth, and greater than 13.5 cm depth were respectively 3.94 · 10^?3 cm tide^?1, 3.26 · 10^?3 cm tide^?1 and 1.13 · 10^?3 cm tide^?1.     

Water filtration through reflective microtidal beaches and shallow sublittoral sands and its implications for an inshore ecosystem in Western Australia

Volumes of seawater filtered through the intertidal zone were measured on three modally reflective microtidal beaches in Western Australia. The filtered volumes were large, 19 m³ m^?1 day^?1 and 73 m³ m^?1 day^?1 on two ‘clean’ beaches but only 0·4 m³ m^?1 per tidal cycle on a beach covered in kelp and seagrass wrack. The mean residence times of this water in the interstitial system and its percolation paths were both short, 1–7 h and 2–5 m respectively. Water input was greater across a beach cusp horn than across a cusp embayment. Most input occurred in the upper swash zone where the water table was less than 20 cm deep. Tidal variations in input volumes were evident even with tide ranges of only 20 cm. The inshore zone off these beaches filters on average 0·07 m³ m^?2 day^?1 at an average depth of 5·5 m under 0·4 m waves of 6·5 s duration. The importance of these procedures in the mineralization of organic materials and the regeneration of nutrients for an inshore ‘lagoon ecosystem’ is estimated and discused.     

Managing coastal erosion: A management proposal for a littoral cell in Todos Santos Bay,Ensenada, Baja California,Mexico

A diagnostic of coastal erosion and shoreline retreat occurring at a 7-km long sandy beach (Littoral Cell III) located in Todos Santos Bay (Baja California, Mexico) is performed trough the analysis of aerial photographs. Around 82,000 m² of this sandy beach have been lost in a 20 year period (1985–2005), at a beach loss rate of 2,100 m² per year. This indicates that coastal erosion is becoming a hazard to human lives and coastal infrastructure. Due to the latter, the implementation of a Shoreline Erosion Management Plan (SEMP) is proposed as the best management approach to deal with the problem. The Littoral Cell III SEMP considers four core policies, eight management strategies and a group of specific measures.     

Beach erosion along the coastline of Alexandria, Egypt

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Population Dynamics and Secondary Production of Emerita brasiliensis (Crustacea: Hippidae) at Prainha Beach, Brazil

Abstract. The secondary production and population dynamics of the mole crab Emerita brasiliensis Schmitt, 1935 (Decapoda: Hippidae) were studied by taking monthly samples from June 1993 to May 1995 at each of three intertidal transects at Prainha beach, Brazil. The lifespan was ca. 8 months for males and females, but females showed higher growth, mortality, secondary production, and turnover rate. The higher production in spring versus autumn and winter was related to intense recruitment during that period. The population production was estimated at between 39.86 and 46.88 g (AFDW) · m^?2 · a^?1 for the first year (June 93–May 94) and between 150.95 and 156.07 g (AFDW) · m^?2 · a^?1 for the second year (June 94–May 95); the mean annual biomass was 4.91 and 23.09 g (AFDW) · m^?2, respectively. High P/B rates, between ca. 6 and 9 · a^?1, reflected the fast growth, high mortality, and low lifespan of the population, characterized by a high percentage of recently recruited individuals.     

Manganese fluxes to the oceans

Application of a simple model describing regional variations in the contents of manganese and associated minor metals in deep-sea sediments suggests that solid manganese phases are being removed from the <0.5 μm fraction of seawater at ～1–7 · 10¹²g yr^?1 in excess of the rate of stream-supplied manganese. This flux is consistent with: (1) the relative rates of sediment accumulation in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans; (2) the contrast between the oceanic residence time of manganese calculated from stream-supply data (14 · 10³ yr) and from the flux of manganese precipitating in marine sediments or as manganese nodules (0.38–2.4 · 10³ yr); (3) the surplus mass of manganese revealed by geochemical balance calculations (22.9 · 10²g). On this basis excess manganese is accumulating in deep-sea sediments at 0.2–2.0 · 10^?6 g cm^?2yr^?1. Manganese supplied to the upper layers of marine sediments by diagenesis has been evaluated with the aid of vertical advection—diffusion—reaction models. The calculated diagenetic flux of manganese at the sediment surface in a near-shore environment is in agreement with the known accretion rate of manganese deposits (1.7 · 10^?2 g cm^?2 10^?3 yr^?1) and the regionally variable flux over the area assessed is consistent with the presence or absence of manganese nodules at or near the water-sediment interface. The diagenetic flux at the surface of deep-sea sediments has been calculated at 0.7 · 10^?4 g cm^?2 10^?3 yr^?1 when the upper, oxic, zone of the sediment is ～20 cm thick. A limiting factor on the in situ production flux of dissolved manganese in deep-sea sediments appears to be the availability of reducing agents for manganese dissolution rather than the rate of downward transport of manganese-rich sediment to a reaction boundary where dissolution takes place. Various estimates of the rate of upward-migrating manganese suggest that manganese precipitates in the oxic zone with a rate constant of ～10^?7 sec^?1 with the result that diagenetic processes cannot supply the flux of excess manganese through more than ～0.25 m of oxic sediment. However, estimates of the flux of manganese to the oceans by submarine volcanic processes (0.79–1.1 · 10¹²g yr^?1) are similar to the surplus mass of manganese detected by geochemical balance calculations (0.7 · 10¹²g yr^?1). If submarine hydrothermal solutions provide only 10% of this excess then their computed discharge rate (39 g cm^?2 yr^?1) and residence time in the upper layer of oceanic crust (130,000 yr) agree well with these parameters for continental thermal springs.     

210Pb in a tropical coastal lagoon sediment core

Excess ²¹⁰Pb in a core from a Mexican Coastal Lagoon, which has no connection with the sea shows a small but measurable decay over the length of the core, when different approaches were compared (excess and corrected ²¹⁰Pb activity with depth, total and inorganic cumulative weights) significant differences in the values for the sedimentation rate are obtained. The best coefficient correlation was calculated when corrected ²¹⁰Pb activity for the uneven distribution of organic matter and cumulative inorganic weight is considered ($\text{ω}\text{= 0·93 cm yr}{}^{\mathrm{?1}}$, R = ?0·86; ω = 0·51 cm yr^?1 for the top 13 cm, R = ?0·90 and 1·52 cm yr^?1 for the interval 14–46 with R = ?0·96).Time frames in the sedimentary column were in agreement between the ²¹⁰Pb calculated time and the appearance of shells fragments probably associated with the disturbances caused by the 1961 hurricane Tara.The surface accumulation rate is equivalent to a mean deposition of 262·5 g m^?2 yr^?1 or organic matter which is minor but comparable to some salt marshes of United States.     

A sediment budget for the Choptank River estuary in Maryland,U.S.A.

A sediment budget for the Choptank River, one of the three largest estuaries on the eastern shore of Chesapeake Bay, was developed from measurements of sediment carried in upland runoff, shore erosion, sedimentation, and levels of suspended sediments in estuarine waters. Shore erosion was the major source of sediment (340 × 10⁶ kg y^?1), contributing seven times more sediment than upland runoff. Low relief, the rural character of the Coastal Plain drainage basin, and the susceptibility of poorly consolidated shoreline materials to erosion contributed to the dominance of shore erosion over runoff as a sediment source. Box modelling indicated a net annual flux (14–44 × 10⁶ kg y^?1) of sediment from the Choptank River to Chesapeake Bay. A mass balance estimate of sedimentation, calculated as the difference between total inputs and loss at the mouth of the estuary, (350 × 10⁶ kg y^?1) agreed well with an estimate based on ²¹⁰Pb profiles (340 × 10⁶ kg y^?1) measured along the longitudinal axis of the estuary. Lead-210 sedimentation rates correspond to accumulation rates of 1·5–7·9 mm y^?1.     

Seasonal distribution of bacteria in salt marsh sediments in North Carolina

The number and size of bacteria at four depths (0–1, 5–6, 10–11 and 20–21 cm) in a North Carolina salt marsh were minotored by direct counts for 13 months. The number of bacteria reached a maximum of about 1·4 × 10¹⁰ cells cm^?3 at the sediment surface in October, corresponding to the period of Spartina alterniflora die-back. Cell numbers were lowest and most consistent throughout the year at the 20 cm depth of sediment. Cell volumes averaged 0·2 μm³ at the marsh surface and decreased with depth. Mean standing crop of bacteria to a depth of 20 cm of sediment was about 14 g bacterial carbon m^?2. In surface sediments bacteria contribute up to 15% and algae up to 10% of total living microbial biomass as estimated by adenosine triphosphate (ATP). Bacteria were the major biomass component at sediment depths of 5, 10 and 20 cm. At all depths the microbial community contributes < 4% total organic carbon and < 8% of total nitrogen.     

Sedimentological parameters and erosion behaviour of submarine coastal sediments in the south-western Baltic Sea

The aim of this study was to evaluate the erodibility of submarine coastal sediments for the purpose of modelling sediment dynamics in Mecklenburg Bay, south-western Baltic Sea. Erosion thresholds derived from experiments with a device microcosm on cores of fine sand (n=5, mean grain size=132 µm) and mud (n=5, medium silt size, mean=21 µm), collected at different times of the year, were compared to theoretical critical shear stress velocities based on grain-size measurements. For this purpose, a sedimentological map of natural surface sediments was constructed for the study area. Calculated values for critical shear stress velocities (u* _{cr-Hjulström} ) are 1.2 cm s^?1 for fine sand, and 3.75 cm s^?1 for cohesive mud. At the mud station, erosion experiments showed an initial transport of the fluffy surface layer (u* _cr-initial ) at a mean critical shear stress velocity of 0.39 cm s^?1. Initial rolling transport at the fine sand station for single sand grains was recorded at values of 0.5 cm s^?1. At higher shear stress velocities, the two sediment types showed diverging erosion behaviour. Measurable erosion (ε>5.0×10^?6 kg m^?2 s^?1) of fine sand starts at a mean critical shear stress velocity (u* _cr-erosion ) of 1.15 cm s^?1 whereas fluffy surface material on mud cores was eroded at mean u* _cr-erosion of 0.62 cm s^?1. This indicates that measured erosion thresholds at the fine sand site fit well to calculated critical shear stress velocities whereas calculated erosion thresholds for cohesive mud are roughly 6 times higher than measured values. As erosion behaviour at the mud station was dominated by fluffy surface material, the comparability of measured and calculated threshold values may be reduced. The underlying silt-sized sediment itself was stable due to cohesive effects. This behaviour has to be taken into consideration by using sediment types instead of mean grain sizes for mapping and modelling sediment dynamics. A comparison of the near-bottom hydrodynamic conditions in the study area and experimentally derived critical shear stress velocities suggests that particle transport is controlled by storm events whereas under calm conditions shear stress velocities do not exceed the critical values.     

福建省平潭岛东北部软质海崖蚀退特征研究

为了揭示软质海崖的侵蚀机制,现场利用量测方法研究了福建省平潭岛东北部软质海崖的蚀退特征、蚀退模式和影响因素,并利用自制崩解仪测试了砂土和粉质黏土的崩解速率。结果表明,软质海崖滑塌物体积、堆积距离均随海崖高度增加而增大,每次滑塌海崖蚀退距离位于0.08~1.23 m;滑塌物覆盖住崖脚后具有临时保护崖脚的作用,但由于其受到扰动较易发生再次蚀退;崖脚海蚀槽的形成对滑塌起到重要控制作用;降雨、海洋水动力、强风和人为活动是造成蚀退的四大因素;在土体抗侵蚀方面,砂土的抗侵蚀能力最弱,粉质黏土的居中,黏土的最强;现场干燥粉质黏土的崩解速率为2.4 cm/min。     

Coastal cliff geometry derived from structure-from-motion photogrammetry at Stara Baška,Krk Island,Croatia

The aim of this study was to examine the capability of structure-from-motion photogrammetry in defining the geometry of cliffs and undercuts in rocks of complex geomorphology. A case site was chosen along pocket beaches near the village of Stara Ba?ka on the Adriatic Sea island of Krk, Gulf of Kvarner, Croatia, where cliff erosion of 5 m in breccias was identified by comparison of aerial photographs from 1960 and 2004. The 3D point cloud was derived from approx. 800 photos taken on 9 January 2014 by a single camera from various elevations and angles, and processed using the online software ReCap (Autodesk). Data acquisition was found to be quick and the method easy to implement. The difference between the georeferenced 3D cloud points and an RTK-GPS survey was 7 cm, i.e. within the limits of RTK-GPS precision. Quantifying the spatial variation in undercut geometries revealed that the deepest and largest (17 m³) undercut was in the south-eastern sector of the beach. Reconstructing the detailed geomorphology of this 3.8-m-deep undercut convincingly demonstrates the high efficiency of the method. Such assessments of spatiotemporal changes in undercut and overhang volumes can prove useful for evaluations of cliff erosion risk. Coupled with the low cost and relatively simple application, this is evidently an attractive technique for meaningful geotechnical and coastal engineering monitoring in the future on the island of Krk and, for that matter, also on other Adriatic islands and in similar settings worldwide.     

Sources,deposition rates and decomposition of organic carbon in recent sediment of Sachem Head Harbor,Long Island Sound

The vertical distributions of excess ²¹⁰Pb and fall out ^{239, 240}Pu imply a uniform sedimentation rate of 1·4–1·6 cm year^?1 from 0 to 105–110 cm. This sediment accumulation rate is compatible with sulfate reduction rate data from this location. Below 70 cm only ‘aged’ refractory carbon is present (C_R = 1·8% C) with an age of approximately 2400 years. This phase is present in a number of locations across Long Island Sound. Planktonic carbon (C_P) is present above the 60–67 cm horizon. A value of 1·0 for A_P (¹⁴C activity) at 32–37 cm was taken, A_P = 1·285 was used for contemporary plankton. This was obtained by correcting the measured A_P of a plankton tow sample for admixed refractory carbon. These values were then used to calculate C_R, C_P and C_F (fossil carbon) at 32–37 cm and 6–12 cm. The only values compatible with the known sulfate reduction rate data are C_R equal to pre 60–67 cm levels (1·6–1·8% C), C_F being 0·3% C at both depths, and C_P decreasing with depth from 0·3 to 0·4% C at 6–12 cm to close to zero at 32–37 cm.     

Instruments for investigating shore and nearshore processes

Abstract

On shingle beaches, changes in foreshore elevation and sediment distribution landward of the break point are produced largely by variations in the uprush and backwash of waves. However, very little is known about the forces active in this zone.

A field instrument system which senses and records some of the parameters thought to influence beach erosion and deposition in this zone has been constructed. The equipment is also suitable for the investigation of a number of other shore and nearshore processes including erosion on sandy and rocky shores, and flow processes affecting littoral biological communities.

In the swash zone two sensing heads, a dynamometer and a depth recorder, sense variations in uprush and backwash velocities, energies, discharges, and depths of flow. Both devices are electromechanical and are coupled to a recording unit on land by PVC‐insulated cable. The dynamometer (two force plates mounted back‐to‐back on a compression spring and coupled to variable resistances) has been calibrated, statically and in a flume, to obtain velocity determinations accurate to within 10 cm . sec^?1 of true flow speed. Average swash zone velocities lie between 100 and 300 cm . sec^?1.

A parallel‐wire resistance gauge mounted an a stilling tube records flow depths. As water level rises and falls in the tube it alters resistance in a control circuit. The land unit, amplifiers and a strip‐chart recorder, receives the output from the dynamometer and flow depth gauge. The recorder is equipped with a trip‐pen so that analysis of wave periods or other variables is possible in the field. With poles at known spacings across the shore and the trip‐pen records, velocity distributions across the swash zone can be obtained. Measurements of velocity made near the bed with the dynamometer can then be related to the local surface velocity profile.

Problems with the instrument system include inability to record velocities at several points simultaneously, and unreliable records of backwash parameters with low breakers on shingle beaches because of the small volume of flow and rapid percolation of water into the beach face.     

The abundance and distribution of free-living nematodes from two Canadian Pacific beaches

Free-living marine nematodes at two littoral sites near Vancouver, Canada were studied over a 1-year period. Sixty-four species were found at a Belcarra Park site, with a maximum nematode density of 6·7 × 10⁵ m^?2 and 24 species at Iona Island, with a maximum density of 1·6 × 10⁵ m^?2. At both sites most of the nematodes occurred in the upper 2 cm of the 6 cm depth of sediment examined, and the vertical distribution of most species remained constant during the year. The distribution of the nematodes in relation to some physical parameters is discussed. The occurrence of certain species suggests that they have a worldwide distribution.     

The distribution and behaviour of tar balls along the Israeli coast

A fortnightly sampling of tar balls on six beaches along the Israeli coastline between 14 April 1975 and 25 June 1976 showed that the mean content of tar during that period was 3625 g m^?1 of beach front. The northern and central parts of the coast were significantly more polluted than the southern part. Between July 1975 and February 1976 the mean tar quantity decreased continuously from 5635 to 1344 g m^?1.A comparison of tar quantities on the Israeli beaches with those of other beaches in the world showed that the Israeli beaches are more polluted than those of the west Atlantic coast, are as polluted as other beaches on the eastern coast of the Mediterranean Sea, and are less polluted than the beaches of Alexandria, Egypt, and Paphos, Cyprus. It is suggested that the tar content on the beach is related to the degree of oil pollution in the sea. The closer a beach is to an oil shipping lane or an oil dumping site, the heavier it is polluted.During storms, beach tar balls are pushed by the waves to the back of the beach or, in the case of a cliffed coast, are carried along the shore by the longshore current. When the tar balls reach a gap in the cliff (such as an estuary), they are carried inland by the storm waves. There the tar may become buried or dry, shrink and break into small particles which are then dispersed by the wind.     

An experimental study of microflagellate bacterivory: further evidence for the importance and complexity of microplanktonic interactions

By simulating an upwelling event in a laboratory microcosm, it was possible to promote the development of a natural and diverse planktonic community. An initial bacterioplankton community which developed in response to phytoplankton growth was dominated by small coccoid forms (0,14–0,2 μm³) of the genera Vibrio and Pseudomonas. This group was heavily exploited by the heterotrophic microflagellate Pseudobodo sp. (30 μm³). Later, the bacterioplankton community was dominated by large rods (0,7 μm³) which the flagellates seemed unable to exploit. A Lotka-Volterra predator-prey model fitted to the observed data indicated that the flagellates consumed 2,4 times their carbon body mass per day or 19 bacteria·flagellate^?1·h^?1 when prey were not limiting. Clearance rates were inversely proportional to prey density and ingestion rate, ranging from 2 × 10^?3 to 20 × 10^?3) μ?·flagellate^?1·h^?1. At typical field densities of bacteria and heterotrophic flagellates in the southern Benguela region, between 5 and 30 percent of the water column could be cleared per day. Specific growth rates of the flagellates were positively related to prey density, the maximal rate being 0,84 · d^?1. Their initially faster growth rates allowed bacteria to increase in numbers despite predation. The growth yield of the flagellates (34–36 per cent) was also positively related to food density. Such low values suggest inefficient transfer of carbon to higher trophic orders but considerable nitrogen regeneration. Nitrogen excretion rates were approximately 6–7 μg N·mg dry weight^?1·h^?1, comparable to other flagellates but faster than ciliates. These rates are comparable with in situ measurements of NH⁺₄-N excretion in pycnoclinal regions based on ¹⁵N isotope studies but are only about 20 per cent of measured rates in surface waters. This is interpreted to mean that, in pycnoclinal regions where the relative input of "new" nitrogen is high, there are few regenerative steps and the model describes them satisfactorily. In surface waters, observed rates of excretion can only be accounted for by many regenerative steps in a highly complex food chain in which the cumulative total of nitrogen excretion at each step amounts to that based on ¹⁵N labelling studies.     

The biomass of macro- and interstitial fauna on clean and wrack-covered beaches in Western Australia

The benthic faunal spectrum including bacteria, protozoans, meiofauna, wrack epifauna and macrofauna, was quantitatively surveyed on two modally reflective, moderate energy, Western Australian beaches. The more exposed beach had coarser sand, no intertidal macrofauna and a poor interstitial fauna. The less exposed beach had a large deposit of wrack totalling 161 kg m^?1 dry mass concentrated on the lower shore. The amphipod Allorchestes compressa was abundant in the fresh wrack comprising most of the macrofauna. There were also fairly abundant small epifauna on the wrack. Dry biomass of macrofauna, epifauna, meiofauna, protozoans and bacteria was 0, 0, 15, 4 and 180 g m^?1 on the more exposed beach and 160, 3, 112, 9 and 901 g m^?1 on the less exposed beach with wrack. On the latter beach there was an inverse correlation between meiofaunal densities and the densities of protozoans and bacteria, suggesting grazing by the former on the latter. On both beaches meiofauna was concentrated in the mid- to upper beach, protozoans near the surface and bacteria in the mid- to lower beach. It is estimated that bacteria are responsible for most of the secondary production on both beaches.     

1972—2013年杭州湾北岸金山深槽演变特征与稳定性分析

运用GIS技术对1972-2013年金山深槽的冲淤特征、演变机制及稳定性进行分析,结果表明:(1)长期来看,15m深槽区以冲刷为主,冲刷区占总面积的88.05%,冲刷量(120.35×106 m3)远大于淤积量(3.76×106 m3),年均净冲刷速率为7.46cm/a;深槽整体向纵深发展,纵长增加了7.34km,展宽增加近1km,且有明显向南展宽趋势;抗冲刷沉积层使得深槽在强潮冲刷下具有一定的稳定性,平均和最大深度波动幅度较小,平均深度维持在21.01~23.59m,最大深度在46.90~51.00m间且分布集中。(2)短期来看,特定地形条件下的冲淤变化明显受人类活动所致水沙变化的影响。2002-2012年,年均净冲刷速率高达22.14cm/a,2012-2013年,冲淤基本平衡。(3)基于15m、20m、25m深槽区中轴线摆动幅度的稳定分析可知,深槽大部分区域处于稳定状态,稳定区范围均占65%以上,但在第6次围堤西侧和城市沙滩前处于不稳定状态,摆动幅度较大,建议加强附近水文监测以及海堤安全评估。