Swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach

New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques at laboratory scale. Overtopping flow volumes are compared with an analytical solution for swash flows as well as a simple numerical model, both of which are restricted to individual swash events. The analytical solution underestimates the overtopping volume by an order of magnitude while the model provides good overall agreement with the data and the reason for this difference is discussed. Modelled flow velocities are input to simple sediment transport formulae appropriate to the swash zone in order to predict the overwash sediment transport rates. Calculations performed with traditional expressions for the wave friction factor tend to underestimate the measured transport. Additional sediment transport calculations using standard total load equations are used to derive an optimum constant wave friction factor of f_w = 0.024. This is in good agreement with a broad range of published field and laboratory data. However, the influence of long waves and irregular wave run-up on the overtopping and overwash remains to be assessed. The good agreement between modelled and measured sediment transport rates suggests that the model provides accurate predictions of the uprush sediment transport rates in the swash zone, which has application in predicting the growth and height of beach berms.     

Swash zone sediment fluxes: Field observations

This paper describes newly obtained, high-frequency observations of beach face morphological change over numerous tidal cycles on a macrotidal sandy beach made using a large array of ultrasonic altimeters. These measurements enable the net cross-shore sediment fluxes associated with many thousands of individual swash events to be quantified. It is revealed that regardless of the direction of net morphological change on a tidal time scale, measured net fluxes per event are essentially normally distributed, with nearly equal numbers of onshore and offshore-directed events. The majority of swash events cause net cross-shore sediment fluxes smaller than ± 50 kg m^− 1 and the mean sediment flux per swash event is only O(± 1 kg m^− 1) leading to limited overall morphological change. However, much larger events which deposit or remove hundreds of kilograms of sand per meter width of beach occur at irregular intervals throughout the course of a tide. It was found that swash–swash interactions tend to increase the transport potential of a swash event and the majority of the swash events that cause these larger values of sediment flux include one or more interactions. The majority of the larger sediment fluxes were therefore measured in the lower swash zone, close to the surf/swash boundary where swash–swash interactions are most common. Despite the existence of individual swash events that can cause fluxes of sediment that are comparable to those observed on a tidal time scale, frequent reversals in transport direction act to limit net transport such that the beach face volume remains in a state of dynamic equilibrium and does not rapidly erode or accrete.     

A backbarrier overwash record of intense storms from Brigantine, New Jersey

Analysis of aerial photographs and historic charts indicates that the barrier beach at Brigantine, NJ has migrated landward 300 to 400 m since 1869, primarily as a result of overwash during hurricanes and winter storms. A series of vibracores from the backbarrier salt marsh reveals a millennial-scale stratigraphic record of overwash deposition. Carbon-14 (C-14) and Cesium-137 (Cs-137) radioisotopic methods were used to date overwash deposits (washovers). The ages of recent washovers are consistent with deposition during intense storms in 1938, 1944, 1950, and 1962. An additional overwash deposit recovered in five of the sediment cores was likely deposited by an intense hurricane strike in 1821 or possibly in 1788. Two prehistoric overwash fans were likely deposited by intense storms striking the New Jersey Coast in the 7th to 14th centuries and 6th to 7th centuries A.D. The landward barrier migration indicates that the older overwash sediments were likely transported a considerably greater distance than the more recent overwash fans. The greater distance of transport may indicate that the prehistoric storms that deposited overwash fans across the study site were more intense than the most intense storm to strike this coast in the historic period, the hurricane of 1821. The spatially variable occurrence of overwash deposition at this site points to a need for multisite stratigraphic surveys of extensive stretches of the coast in order to develop reliable records of past intense storm frequency from backbarrier environments.     

Two-dimensional time dependent hurricane overwash and erosion modeling at Santa Rosa Island

A 2DH numerical, model which is capable of computing nearshore circulation and morphodynamics, including dune erosion, breaching and overwash, is used to simulate overwash caused by Hurricane Ivan (2004) on a barrier island. The model is forced using parametric wave and surge time series based on field data and large-scale numerical model results. The model predicted beach face and dune erosion reasonably well as well as the development of washover fans. Furthermore, the model demonstrated considerable quantitative skill (upwards of 66% of variance explained, maximum bias − 0.21 m) in hindcasting the post-storm shape and elevation of the subaerial barrier island when a sheet flow sediment transport limiter was applied. The prediction skill ranged between 0.66 and 0.77 in a series of sensitivity tests in which several hydraulic forcing parameters were varied. The sensitivity studies showed that the variations in the incident wave height and wave period affected the entire simulated island morphology while variations in the surge level gradient between the ocean and back barrier bay affected the amount of deposition on the back barrier and in the back barrier bay. The model sensitivity to the sheet flow sediment transport limiter, which served as a proxy for unknown factors controlling the resistance to erosion, was significantly greater than the sensitivity to the hydraulic forcing parameters. If no limiter was applied the simulated morphological response of the barrier island was an order of magnitude greater than the measured morphological response.     

Geological characteristics and spatial distribution of paleo-inlet channels beneath the outer banks barrier islands,North Carolina,USA

Nearly 200 km of high-resolution ground penetrating radar (GPR) data were acquired along the Outer Banks barrier island system of North Carolina, USA. GPR data combined with lithofacies and biofacies data reveal multiple depositional facies including inlet channel, flood-tide delta, overwash, peat and inner shelf. Previously undocumented paleo-inlet channels constitute a significant portion of the shallow geologic framework between Oregon Inlet and Cape Hatteras. GPR data reveal the complex stratigraphy associated with multiple sequences of cut-and-fill within inlet channels. Two types of paleochannels (non-migrating and migrating) were classified based on geometry and fill-patterns. Sediments and foraminifera collected from vibracores were correlated to GPR data to define the regional shallow stratigraphic framework. Channel-fill facies are characterized by clinoform packages, sometimes bounded by erosional surfaces, indicating variable sediment transport directions from the ocean and sound sides. Channels are incised into older flood-tide delta deposits corresponding to older inlet activity when barriers existed further seaward. Flood-tide delta deposits are capped with marsh peat and overwash units. Migrating inlet facies occur under the widest portions of the island, whereas narrow portions of the island are underlain by the non-migrating inlet facies or flood-tide delta/overwash facies. This geologic/geomorphic relationship is attributed to the successional stage of island evolution during transgression, and sediment transport processes associated with the different inlet types. The radar facies, lithofacies, and biofacies provide a comprehensive dataset that will permit more precise identification of barrier island facies in the geologic record.     

Response of the mid shoreface of the southern mid-Atlantic Bight to a “northeaster”

An instrumented, bottom-mounted, tripod deployed off Duck, North Carolina, at a depth of 8 m provided time Series of pressure, benthic currents, suspended Sediment concentrations and bed-level changes prior to and during a typical northeast storm. A Strong jet-like southerly-setting current generated by the northeaster was accompanied by downwelling and Strong bottom agitation by wind waves. A total bed-level change of over 15 cm was recorded. After a phase of bed erosion, the bed accreted rapidly. Side-scan imagery supports the inference that offshore or alongshore migration of quasi-discrete sediment lobes may have produced the observed pulse-like accretion.     

A numerical model study of barotropic subtidal water exchange between estuary and subestuaries (tributaries) in the Chesapeake Bay during northeaster events

Northeasters are storms that affect the Chesapeake Bay area more frequently, last for longer periods and impact larger areas than hurricanes. Their impacts on storm surge development and the water exchange between estuary and subestuaries (tributaries) in the Bay vary from one event to another. In this study, three different northeaster events were selected based on their tracks when passing through the Chesapeake Bay area. An unstructured grid finite volume model ELCIRC was utilized to examine the response of the water level of the Chesapeake Bay to three selected northeasters, and the barotropic subtidal water exchanges between the tributaries and the estuary in the Bay. Model sensitivity tests were conducted to examine various effects induced by, for example, tide–surge interaction, open boundary condition, river inflow, wetting-and-drying of the low-lying land area and the usage of 2-D or 3-D mode. The results show that excluding tide–surge interaction did not deteriorate the model performance in the lower Bay but it increased the model inaccuracy in the upper Bay and in the tributaries; using radiation boundary condition decreased the sea level variation in the Bay without appropriately specifying incoming wave; excluding wetting-and-drying of low-lying land area reduced the volume flux by approximately 5%; and using 3-D mode generally increased the water level variation in the Bay. The model predicted storm surges well for three northeaster events. Further diagnostic experiments show that the relative importance of the local and remote winds in generating storm surges in the Bay varied with different northeasters. The inverse barometeric effect played an important role in inducing storm surges for two selected northeasters. The interaction between the tributaries and the Bay proper is considerable. The impacts of the remote wind and Bay wind can be much larger than that of the tributary wind and, thus, control the hydrodynamics and mass transport in the tributaries. The Bay wind and tributary wind effects are largely affected by the wind direction and wind phase, and geographic locations of the tributaries in the Bay. The tributary wind can be dominant over the remote wind and Bay wind effects when the local wind stress and barometric pressure changes are large.     

Progress in the Study of Coastal Storm Deposits

Numerous studies have been carried out to identify storm deposits and decipher storm-induced sedimentary processes in coastal and shallow-marine areas. This study aims to provide an in-depth review on the study of coastal storm deposits from the following five aspects. 1) The formation of storm deposits is a function of hydrodynamic and sedimentary processes under the constraints of local geological and ecological factors. Many questions remain to demonstrate the genetic links between storm-related processes and a variety of resulting deposits such as overwash deposits, underwater deposits and hummocky cross-stratification (HCS). Future research into the formation of storm deposits should combine flume experiments, field observations and numerical simulations, and make full use of sediment source tracing methods. 2) Recently there has been rapid growth in the number of studies utilizing sediment provenance analysis to investigate the source of storm deposits. The development of source tracing techniques, such as mineral composition, magnetic susceptibility, microfossil and geochemical property, has allowed for better understanding of the depositional processes and environmental changes associated with coastal storms. 3) The role of extreme storms in the sedimentation of low-lying coastal wetlands with diverse ecosystem services has also drawn a great deal of attention. Many investigations have attempted to quantify widespread land loss, vertical marsh sediment accumulation and wetland elevation change induced by major hurricanes. 4) Paleostorm reconstructions based on storm sedimentary proxies have shown many advantages over the instrumental records and historic documents as they allow for the reconstruction of storm activities on millennial or longer time scales. Storm deposits having been used to establish proxies mainly include beach ridges and shelly cheniers, coral reefs, estuary-deltaic storm sequences and overwash deposits. Particularly over the past few decades, the proxies developed from overwash deposits have successfully retrieved many records of storm activities during the mid to late Holocene worldwide. 5) Distinguishing sediments deposited by storms and tsunamis is one of the most difficult issues among the many aspects of storm deposit studies. Comparative studies have investigated numerous diagnostic evidences including hydrodynamic condition, landward extent, grain property, texture and grading, thickness, microfossil assemblage and landscape conformity. Perhaps integrating physical, biological and geochemical evidences will, in the future, allow unambiguous identification of tsunami deposits and storm deposits.     

Sediment transport near the Tauranga entrance to Tauranga Harbour

Abstract

Sediment transport at the Tauranga Entrance was studied in relation to tidal currents and waves. Bedforms resulting from tidal flow were investigated with scuba divers and echo‐soundings. The alignment and scale of bedforms indicated the direction and approximate rate of sediment transport. Sediment transport was measured directly using sediment traps, and results were compared with rates calculated by another method. Maximum sediment transport rates of 20 000–30 000 g.m^?1 per half tidal cycle occur near the inlet gorge, but rates vary considerably in time and space, depending mainly upon power of tidal currents. A model of sediment transport for this inlet has been evolved based on tidal flow streamlines, bedform features, and the measured and calculated rates of sediment transport.     

弱动力浅海中的悬沙输运机制:以天津港附近海域为例

根据在天津港附近海域获取的水动力和浊度数据,分析了悬沙输运特征和输运机制,结果表明:天津港附近海域受不规则半日潮控制呈低流态往复流特征,但涨潮流强于落潮流;涨潮期间底部悬沙浓度与垂线平均流速呈显著线性相关,存在显著的再悬浮作用;潮周期内的悬沙输运呈典型的不对称特征,形成向岸的净输运趋势。输运机制分析结果显示:潮泵效应(尤其是潮汐捕捉效应)是天津港附近海域悬沙输运的主要贡献项,其次是拉格朗日平流输运项,前者比后者高一个量级;垂向剪切作用最小。涨落潮期间流速与悬沙浓度的显著不对称是造成潮汐捕捉效应占主导的基本条件。在潮下带这种悬沙输运格局可能和潮间带发生的细颗粒沉积物捕集(堆积)作用有关。     

Process-based model for nearshore hydrodynamics, sediment transport and morphological evolution in the surf and swash zones

Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the nearshore zone were modeled numerically taking into account turbulent unsteady flow. The flow field was computed using the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a k–ε turbulence closure model, while the free surface was tracked using the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. This hydrodynamical model was supplemented with a cross-shore sediment transport formula to calculate profile changes and sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Based on the numerical solutions, flow characteristics and the effects of breaking waves on sediment transport were studied. The main characteristic of breaking waves, i.e. the instantaneous sediment transport rate, was investigated numerically, as was the spatial distribution of time-averaged sediment transport rates for different grain sizes. The analysis included an evaluation of different values of the wave friction factor and an empirical constant characterizing the uprush and backwash. It was found that the uprush induces a larger instantaneous transport rate than the backwash, indicating that the uprush is more important for sediment transport than the backwash. The results of the present model are in reasonable agreement with other numerical and physical models of nearshore hydrodynamics. The model was found to predict well cross-shore sediment transport and thus it provides a tool for predicting beach morphology change.     

Holocene shelf-coastal sedimentary systems associated with the Changjiang River：An overview

The fate of the terrestrial sediment supplied by rivers is a critical issue for understanding the patterns of Holocene environmental change on continental shelves. The East China Sea is a typical broad continental shelf with abundant sediment supply from large rivers. Here, a variety of sedimentary records were formed during the Holocene period. The sedimentary systems associated with these records have unique charac- teristics in terms of spatial distribution, material composition, deposition rate and the timing of deposition, which are related to active sediment transport processes induced by tides and waves, shelf circulations and sediment gravity flows. The sedimentary records thus formed are high resolution slices, i.e., each record has a temporal resolution of up to 10~-10-1 a, but only covers a limited part of the Holocene time. In terms of the spatial distribution, these records are scattered over a large area on the shelf. Further studies of these systems are required to understand the underlying process-product relationships. In particular, the mid- Holocene coastal deposits on the Jiangsu coast, the early to middle Holocene sequences of the Hangzhou Bay, as well as the Holocene mud deposits off the Zhejiang-Fujian coasts, should be investigated in terms of the material supply （from both seabed reworking during the sea level rise event and river discharges）, transport-accumulation processes, the sediment sequences and the future evolution of the sedimentary systems. Advanced numerical modeling techniques should be developed to meet the needs of these studies.     

Contribution of hydrodynamic conditions during shallow water stages to the sediment balance on a tidal flat: Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, Normandy, France

Field measurements were conducted in Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, a megatidal embayment (spring tidal range of 15 m), in order to monitor, over the course of a tidal cycle, sediment transport variability due to waves and tides on the upper part of a tidal flat characterised by shallow water depths. Sensors used to measure currents, water depth and turbidity were installed just above the bed (0.04 m). Two experiments were conducted under contrasting hydrodynamic conditions. The results highlight wave activity over the tidal flat even though observed wind waves were largely dissipated due to the very shallow water depths. Very high suspended sediment concentrations (up to 6 kg/m³) were recorded in the presence of wave activity at the beginning of the local flood, when significant sediment transport occurred, up to 7 times as much as under conditions of no wave activity. This influence may be attributed to the direct action of waves on bed sediments, to wave-induced liquefaction, and to the erosive action of waves on tidal channel banks. The sediment composition, comprising a clay fraction of 2-5%, may also enhance sediment transport by reducing critical shear stress through the sand lubrication effect. The results also show that antecedent meteorological conditions play an important role in suspended sediment transport on the tidal flat. Total sediment flux directions show a net transport towards the inner part of the bay that contributes to deposition over the adjacent salt marshes, and this tendency also prevails during strong wave conditions. Such sediment transport is characterised by significant variability over the course of the tidal cycle. During fair and moderate weather conditions, 83% and 71% of the total flux was observed, respectively, over only 11% and 28% of the duration of the local tidal cycle and with water depths between 0.04 and 0.3 m. These results suggest that in order to improve our understanding of sediment budgets in this type of coastal environment, it is essential to record data just at the beginning and at the end of tidal submergence close to the bed.     

On the transport of suspended sediment by a swash event on a plane beach

We develop solutions for the transport of suspended sediment by a single swash event following the collapse of a bore on a plane beach, and we investigate the morphodynamical role that such transport may play. Although the intrinsic asymmetry between uprush and backwash velocities tends to encourage the export of sediment, we find that swash events may be effective in distributing across the swash zone much or all of the sediment mobilised by bore collapse; additionally, settling lag effects may promote a weak onshore movement of sediment. We quantify both effects in terms of the properties of the sediment and of the swash event, and comment on the relationship between our findings and recent field studies of swash zone sediment transport.     

夏季浙江沿岸陆架区泥沙输运机制

基于2014年夏季浙江沿岸陆架区的水文、泥沙、底质沉积物等实测资料,运用物质通量分析方法和Gao-Collins粒径趋势分析法,探讨了泥沙的输运通量、输运方向、动力机制及净输运趋势。夏季,近岸含沙量规律性较强,由西至东逐渐降低,由南至北逐渐升高,且与潮流有非常好的对应关系,呈现出明显的潮周期变化特征。研究区净悬沙通量自岸向外海迅速变小,悬沙输运中平流输运占主导地位,其次是垂向净环流对悬沙输运的影响,近岸海域表现为向海输沙,30 m以深海域表现为东北向输沙,同时台湾暖流的屏障作用也影响了悬沙向海扩散。粒径趋势分析显示浙江沿岸陆架表层沉积物的长期输运机制为由东北向西南输运,在流系以及海底地形的影响下,中部海域出现粒径趋势较弱的沉积中心。而在夏季,悬浮泥沙主要为平行岸线向东北输运,估算每天进入研究海域的净悬浮泥沙约为1.9×106 t。     

Assessment of the consecutive harmful dinoflagellate blooms during 2015 in the Izmit Bay (the Marmara Sea)

A series of red tides were observed during 2015 in the Izmit Bay(the Marmara Sea) which is located in the most industrialized and populated region of Turkey. Six samplings were carried out in this area following the red tides.Nitrite-N, nitrate-N, ammonia, silica and orthophosphate concentrations were analyzed spectrophotometrically.Physicochemical conditions were measured by CTD probe. Plankton quantification was performed using counting chambers under microscopes. Prorocentrum micans was the most abundant species, except on May 14,2015, when Noctiluca scintillans was dominant. The abundance of P. micans reached average 18×10~6 ind./L on May 3, 2015 in the Karamürsel station, simultaneously with elevated levels of NH_3 and o-PO_4~(3–). The sample was also abundant in dead amphipods((72±12) ind./L) that had been covered by mucilage aggregates produced by P.micans. The highest biomass(calculated by carbon) was recorded as(268±26.0) mg/L on May 14 in the Hereke station. Beside the anthropogenic wastewater discharges, unknown sources and resuspensions caused increases in nutrient levels. After long term northeaster gusts(35 km/h for 5 d) an upwelling occurred on November 6, 2015 after wind-induced sediment resuspension. Although nutrient discharges remarkably decreased over 30 years through established wastewater treatment plants, harmful phytoplankton blooms still occur. Comparing the present results with other studies in nearby Mediterranean seas reveals that the most intense harmful dinoflagellate bloom in recent years occurred in the Izmit Bay. Therefore, additional protection measures necessary for a cleaner Izmit Bay. These incidents also demonstrate that contaminants, accumulated in sediment,may have long-lasting effects on enclosed marine ecosystems.     

Adsorption–desorption reactions and bioturbation transport of Ra in marine sediments: a one-dimensional model with applications

The distribution of trace metals in sediments and their exchange between sediments and overlying water is governed by multiple processes including molecular diffusion, bioturbation (porewater advection, porewater mixing, and particle mixing), chemical reactions and adsorption–desorption. To understand these processes and their relative contributions, a one-dimensional model was built, which includes bioturbation and adsorption–desorption processes, to describe the transport of ²²⁴Ra. Because ²²⁴Ra is adsorbed on MnO₂, ²²⁴Ra may serve as a proxy for trace metal transport. Three sites were sampled and both dissolved and adsorbed ²²⁴Ra were analyzed and modeled to understand the transport and exchange processes. It was found that particle transport of adsorbed ²²⁴Ra followed by desorption at the sediment/water interface typically represents the dominant flux. We have further been able to define conditions where the porewater transport for adsorption reactive metals like ²²⁴Ra (and other metals) may be out of the sediments whereas the active scavenging of ²²⁴Ra from the water column at the sediment water interface via adsorption reactions can result in a flux of ²²⁴Ra into the sediment. These processes are both predicted by the model and observed in sediment samples.     

Adsorption–desorption reactions and bioturbation transport of 224Ra in marine sediments: a one-dimensional model with applications

The distribution of trace metals in sediments and their exchange between sediments and overlying water is governed by multiple processes including molecular diffusion, bioturbation (porewater advection, porewater mixing, and particle mixing), chemical reactions and adsorption–desorption. To understand these processes and their relative contributions, a one-dimensional model was built, which includes bioturbation and adsorption–desorption processes, to describe the transport of ²²⁴Ra. Because ²²⁴Ra is adsorbed on MnO₂, ²²⁴Ra may serve as a proxy for trace metal transport. Three sites were sampled and both dissolved and adsorbed ²²⁴Ra were analyzed and modeled to understand the transport and exchange processes. It was found that particle transport of adsorbed ²²⁴Ra followed by desorption at the sediment/water interface typically represents the dominant flux. We have further been able to define conditions where the porewater transport for adsorption reactive metals like ²²⁴Ra (and other metals) may be out of the sediments whereas the active scavenging of ²²⁴Ra from the water column at the sediment water interface via adsorption reactions can result in a flux of ²²⁴Ra into the sediment. These processes are both predicted by the model and observed in sediment samples.     

Particle fluxes dynamics in Blanes submarine canyon (Northwestern Mediterranean)

Within the framework of the multidisciplinary RECS project and with the aim of describing the particle flux transfer from the continental shelf to the deep basin, an array of five mooring lines equipped with a total of five pairs of PPS3/3 sequential-sampling sediment traps and RCM-7/8 current meters were deployed 30 m above the bottom from March 2003 to March 2004 inside and outside the Blanes Canyon. One mooring line was located in the upper canyon at 600 m depth, one in the canyon axis at 1700 m depth and other two close to the canyon walls at 900 m depth. A fifth mooring line was deployed in the continental open slope at 1500 m water depth.The highest near-bottom downward particle flux (14.50 g m⁻² d⁻¹) was recorded at the trap located in the upper canyon (M1), where continental inputs associated with the presence of the Tordera River are most relevant. On the other hand, the downward fluxes (4.35 g m⁻² d⁻¹) in the canyon axis (M2) were of the same order as those found in the western flank (M3) of the canyon. Both values were clearly higher than the value (1.95 g m⁻² d⁻¹) recorded at the eastern canyon wall (M4). The open slope (M5) mass flux (5.42 mg m⁻² d⁻¹) recorded by the sediment trap located outside the canyon system was three orders of magnitude lower than the other values registered by the inner canyon stations. The relevance of our data is that it explains how the transport pathway in the canyon occurs through its western flank, where a more active and persistent current toward the open ocean was recorded over the entire year of the experiment.Off-shelf sediment transport along the canyon axis showed clear differences during the period of the study, with some important events leading to strong intensifications of the current coupled with large transport of particle fluxes to the deepest parts of the canyon. Such events are primarily related to increases in river discharge and the occurrence of strong storms and cascading events during the winter.In summary, in this study it is shown that the dynamics of the water masses and the currents in the study area convert the sharp western flank of the Blanes Canyon in a more active region that favors erosion processes than the eastern flank, which has a smoother topography and where the absence of erosional conditions yields to steadier sedimentary processes.     

Observations on silt and sand transport in the throat section of the Frisian Inlet

The Frisian Inlet is one of the tidal basins of the Dutch Wadden Sea. In 1969, its basin area was reduced by 30%. As documented by bathymetric surveys, this has led to an import of sediment of 30×10⁶ m³ over the first 18 years. The study presented in this paper seeks to establish the mechanisms responsible for the passage of the sediment through the throat cross-section of the inlet channel. Emphasis is on a 14-day period of relative calm when sediment transport can be attributed solely to tidal currents. Use is made of continuous measurements of velocity, sand and silt concentration. The measurement station was located on one side of the throat cross-section in a water depth of approximately 6 m. For both the sand and silt fraction of the sediment, suspended load transport is the dominant transport mode. It is shown that for sand, concentration variations and net transport are determined by the local (in the throat section) velocity. Especially the residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry play an important role in the net sand flux. For silt, except for transport associated with locally generated vertical mixing, the net transport is largely determined by sedimentation–erosion processes in the basin and the silt concentration in the North Sea. Comparison with measurements in a station located in the middle of the throat section shows considerable difference in residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry. As a result, the sediment fluxes also differ. Accurately determining the net sediment flux in the throat section would require a dense net of measurement stations.