深水工况下弧面胸墙沉箱堤的反射形态分析

为推广应用新型弧面胸墙沉箱堤,结合模型试验和数值模拟对比分析了深水工况下弧面胸墙沉箱堤和削角胸墙沉箱堤的反射形态。波面和波压的数值结果与试验数据吻合良好,验证了数值方法的有效性。反射系数表明,入射波浪在与弧面胸墙沉箱堤相互作用过程中的能量损耗最小,其反射强于削角胸墙沉箱堤。波面和流速包络图显示,两种堤型均在堤前形成了部分立波系统,腹点和节点以四分之一波长的距离增量交替出现,胸墙和直立部分产生的反射波存在相位差,导致初始腹点的位置向海侧偏移。弧面胸墙沉箱堤前叠合波的相位差影响最小,腹点包络高度最大,节点包络高度最小,反射效应最明显。两种堤型前中下层水流的周期平均速度均较小且对称,表明底床泥沙不会产生趋势性输移,但迎浪基床上方的环流系统可能引起局部冲刷。相对而言,弧面胸墙沉箱堤前的环流强度最弱,更有利于冲刷防护。     

直立式防波堤前护底层宽度设计的新方法

直立式防波堤可因堤前海底被冲刷的影响而发生破坏。过去对于在立波作用下的直立堤,一般认为由于在堤前四分之一波长,即波节点处发生最大底流速,将引起海底泥沙的被冲刷,因此要求堤前护底块石层的宽度采用为1/4～3/8倍设计波长。然而一些模型试验表明,冲刷并不一定发生在节点位置。而且我们认为即使是在节点发生冲刷的情况下,也不应当简单地规定必须防止在第一个节点处形成冲刷坑。在确定直立堤前的护底措施时,应当首先判断冲刷坑可能发生的位置,估计冲刷坑的深度及大小,然后在地基整体稳定计算(如圆弧滑动方法)中,具体考虑存在冲刷坑后对稳定安     

堤前远破波运动与冲淤形态

利用数值波浪水槽,对远破波作用下堤前波浪运动进行了数值模拟。分析了堤前速度场的变化,指出堤前波浪运动在一个波周期内可分为向堤波和离堤波。波浪在距堤约L/2处破碎后向堤冲击并沿堤面爬升,称为向堤波;波浪从堤面最高处回落与向堤波相遇并破碎,称为离堤波。堤前远破波的前半个周期的向堤波速度场大于后半个周期的离堤波速度场,且堤前波浪运动在一个波周期内的前半个周期和后半个周期完全不同。床面某点(L/4,3L/4)的速度在一个波浪周期内随时间呈向堤和离堤变化,向堤速度最大值大于离堤速度的最大值。利用堤前速度场的研究成果,进一步分析了远破波作用下堤前海床冲淤形成过程,完善了冲淤机理。     

立波作用下堤前冲刷特性及预报

本文对立波作用下堤前海床的冲刷进行了系统的研究,指出了立波作用下直立堤前海庆的冲刷形态;分析堤前冲刷机理;提出了堤前冲刷形态的判别标准;给出了反映粒径效应的堤前冲刷深度公式;研究了突基床尺度对堤前冲刷的影响规律.     

直立堤前海床的局部冲刷

对不规则波作用下直立堤前海床的局部冲刷进行了研究。研究了由于波浪作用导致床面的底沙运动,从而造成提前海床的局部冲刷,即所谓的“相对粒沙”的情况。报导了;(1)堤前海床面为水平、堤下无基床情况下的堤前局部冲刷,以及堤下有明基床时基床尺度对堤前局部冲刷的影响;(2)堤前海床面为斜坡面时堤前的局部冲刷,以及当堤下有明基床时基床尺度对堤前局部冲刷的影响;(3)从波浪作用下床面边界层的理论分析出发,对于在不规则波作用下,离堤面愈远处的冲刷坑深度愈小的事实给出了解释。     

海啸波作用下直立堤局部冲刷实验研究

基于波浪水槽动床实验,开展海啸波作用下直立堤局部冲刷实验研究。对海啸波上爬和回落过程、岸滩演变和直立 堤局部冲刷形态进行测量。在利用实测数据验证基础上,结合 FLOW 3D 进行数值模拟流场计算分析。研究结果表明,直立堤 的修建对岸滩起到明显的保护作用,但是直立堤两侧会出现明显的局部冲刷。直立堤向岸侧局部冲刷主要发生在海啸上爬时 刻,堤脚处形成的涡流是局部冲刷形成的主要原因。直立堤离岸侧的局部冲刷主要由海啸波回落水流越过堤顶生成水跌形成 的,随着直立堤堤顶高度的增加,最大局部冲刷深度会逐渐减小。     

直立堤前为任意地形时立波运动的数值分析

本文利用MAC法(marker and cell method)对直立堤前求解域为任意形状(有突基床存在、海床起伏)的情况下立波波面及流场进行了数值分析,得到了实验资料及现有理论近似解的验证。在计算中为克服因堤面反射给入流界条件的确定带来的困难,我们根据立波形成的原理采用了”镜像法“技术。通过算例分析,揭示了当突基床尺度足够大时立波波节和波腹的位置向堤面方向前移从而波长缩短的原因,指出了因突基床的存在堤前立波节点附近离堤和向堤的水平流速分布的不对称性。     

直立堤前波浪和波压力统计特征

基于1987年和1988年夏季在古镇口港直立堤前的实测资料,对波浪和波压力连续记录进行了统计分析和谱估计,研究了在堤前海浪不发生破碎条件下,堤前波浪和堤面不同高程上压力波的波面高度概率分布、堤前波浪波高和周期与波压力幅度和周期的概率分布特征、入射波行近提前过程中的谱变化及堤面不同高程上压力谱的变化特征。主要结果总结在本文最后一节。     

不完全立波的二维数值波浪水槽模拟

利用二维数值波浪水槽研究波浪在防波堤前的运动状态.模型选用Navier-Stokes方程作为基本方程,以有限元法对基本方程进行离散.以直立堤前完全立波和越浪条件的不完全立波、斜坡堤前的不完全立波等典型情况的模拟为基础,组合这些典型情况模拟削角堤前不完全立波运动,探讨其堤前波面、波节点及波腹点位置、波压力等特性变化.     

新仙女木期古黄海潮流场的数值模拟

新仙女木事件发生时(12.9～11.6 cal.kaBP),中国东部陆架海平面在-66 m等深线附近振荡徘徊,海水进入到现代北黄海南部,黄海形成了一个狭长的通道型海湾。运用环境流体动力学模型(EFDC)对这特殊的狭长通道型海湾潮流场进行数值模拟,计算中采用水平方向上的曲线正交坐标与垂直方向上的Sigma坐标相结合以及三维数学模型二维化的方法。模拟结果显示当时的潮流场非常的强,水深较浅的区域多为旋转流,水深较深的中间槽部区域多呈往复流,不断冲刷底部,带走悬浮泥砂。进入黄海后,潮波从前进波转变成旋转波,并在西岸出现两个发育不完全的无潮点。潮余流在古黄海西部及中部海域一致向东南和南向流动,并且流速较大,但在口门处流速减小,海湾中部冲刷起的底部沉积物可能被余流带出并沉积下来形成济州岛西南泥质区。而在东部海域,余流具有向北流的趋势,从而在古海湾的中央区域形成一个较为明显的逆时针向环流,很有可能是韩国西南现代泥质区接收泥质沉积的开始。南黄海东侧发育的潮流沙脊群的延伸方向及潮流砂的粒度组成和古黄海的潮流场有很好的对应关系,新仙女木时期波动较小的海平面和稳定的潮流场是潮流沙脊群形成的有利因素。可以说新仙女木期的海流、潮流和潮...     

Quantification of changes in current intensities induced by wave overtopping around low-crested structures

The phenomenon of overtopping is traditionally studied for well-emerged harbour structures and often focuses on safety and stability. In this paper laboratory tests are presented and analysed to sharpen the hypothesis that overtopping is capable of changing the horizontal circulation pattern around low-crested structures. A unique data set from laboratory experiments was acquired in the wave basin at Delft University of Technology. The experiments were performed using an emerged impermeable low-crested structure (three freeboards and three different wave conditions for each freeboard) and yielded nine different combinations of set-up and overtopping driving forces. Using this information it was possible to quantify the changes in cross-shore and longshore velocity induced by the overtopping and the set-up changes under the different freeboard and wave conditions described. It is found that overtopping enhances the outgoing flows (longshore velocities parallel to the structure) away from the lee side of the structure and dampens the water level gradient driven flow towards the structure.     

Hydrodynamic studies on vertical seawall defenced by low-crested breakwater

This paper presents results obtained from a series of experiments conducted in wave flume to assess the influence of the offshore low-crested breakwater as a defence structure in reducing the wave forces on vertical seawall. The main aim of the tests was to know the effect of crest elevation of the offshore low-crested breakwater as a rehabilitation structure for the existing damaged shore protection structures. In this study five relative breakwater heights are used and associated flow evolution was analyzed. With the sections proposed in this study, it is possible to achieve considerable reduction of wave force on the seawall. Modification factor is proposed to estimate the shoreward force on the seawall defenced by low-crested breakwater.     

T型防波堤与波浪相互作用数值研究

针对T型透空式防波堤,通过浪高仪采集防波堤前后不同位置波面变化曲线,使用声学多普勒流速仪(NDV)测量不同位置流速随时间的变化,并分析了其相位平均流速的分布。基于VOF法的二维波浪数值水槽,对规则波作用下T型防波堤附近的动力特性进行了计算,水槽模型试验结果和数值模拟结果对比表明,数值计算结果与实验值吻合较好。采用该模型进一步对T型防波堤附近波浪场、流线、紊动动能、紊动动能耗散率变化以及不同尺寸的防波堤消浪效果进行模拟计算,重点分析了入射波高、防波堤入水深度和防波堤宽度变化的影响。     

Transmission of obliquely incident waves at low-crested breakwaters: Theoretical interpretations of experimental observations

The paper presents a series of analytical and numerical investigations of oblique wave transmission at low-crested breakwaters. For a smooth breakwater, two important features of wave height and direction are analyzed to establish the generic nature of the wave transmission process at oblique incidence. The proposed framework of research is validated against laboratory data from the EU-sponsored project, DELOS. The numerical simulations exhibit a significant decrease of the transmission coefficient with increasingly oblique incidence at a smooth breakwater. The roles of wave-breaking, nonlinearity, wave-induced currents and set-up in determining the characteristics of oblique wave transmission are demonstrated in the paper. It is found that both the amplitude-dependent phase velocity and the decrease of mean wave period contribute to the change of mean wave direction on the transmission side. An attempt has also been made to qualitatively explain the different behaviour of oblique wave transmission at a rubble-mound breakwater.     

Solitary wave propagation influenced by submerged breakwater

The form of Boussinesq equation derived by Nwogu （1993） using velocity at an arbitrary distance and surface elevation as variables is used to simulate wave surface elevation changes. In the numerical experiment, water depth was divided into five layers with six layer interfaces to simulate velocity at each layer interface. Besides, a physical experiment was carried out to validate numerical model and study solitary wave propagation.“Water column collapsing”method （WCCM） was used to generate solitary wave. A series of wave gauges around an impervious breakwater were set-up in the flume to measure the solitary wave shoaling, run-up, and breaking processes. The results show that the measured data and simulated data are in good agreement. Moreover, simulated and measured surface elevations were analyzed by the wavelet transform method. It shows that different wave frequencies stratified in the wavelet amplitude spectrum. Finally, horizontal and vertical velocities of each layer interface were analyzed in the process of solitary wave propagation through submerged breakwater.     

Laboratory experiments for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a breakwater

In this paper, laboratory data for free surface displacements and velocity fields in front of a caisson breakwater covered with wave-dissipating blocks, together with wave pressures acting on the caisson, are presented and discussed. The core of the breakwater is made of a concrete caisson with a vertical front wall. The caisson is protected by a thick layer of tetrapods and is supported by a rubble mound. The breakwater is placed on the 1/25 impermeable slope. Two types of incident waves are used in the experiments: nonbreaking waves and spilling-type breaking waves. In the breaking wave case, the incident wave breaks offshore before it reaches the breakwater. The velocity data are obtained by using both the Laser Doppler Velocimeter (LDV) and the Electromagnetic Current Meter (EMCM). The raw data are analyzed using a numerical-filtering scheme so that turbulent fluctuations are separated from the phase-dependent wave motions. The vertical profiles of the time-averaged (over a wave period) turbulent velocity components at several vertical cross-sections in front of the breakwater are then analyzed. The spatial variations of the time-averaged turbulence velocity suggest that turbulence is generated inside the protective armor layer and transported into the flow region in front of the breakwater. The wave pressures on the vertical face and on the bottom of the caisson are also reported.     

Hydrodynamic characteristics of semi-immersed breakwater with an attached porous plate

In the present study, wave interaction with a fixed, partially immersed breakwater of box type with a plate attached (impermeable-permeable) at the front part of the structure is investigated numerically and experimentally. The large scale laboratory experiments on the interaction of regular waves with the special breakwater were conducted in the wave flume of Laboratori d’Enginyeria Marνtima (LIM) at Universitat Politecnica de Catalunya (UPC) in Barcelona. Experimental results are compared with numerical results obtained with the use of the Cornell breaking Wave and Structures (COBRAS) wave model. The effects of an impermeable as well as a permeable plate attached to the bottom of the breakwater on its hydrodynamic characteristics (wave transmission, reflection, dissipation, velocity and turbulence kinetic energy) are investigated. Computed velocities and turbulence kinetic energy in the vicinity of the structure indicate the effects of the breakwater with the attached (impermeable/permeable) plate on the flow pattern and the turbulence structure. The attached impermeable plate at the front part of the breakwater enhances significantly the efficiency of the structure in attenuating the incident waves. The permeable plate reduces the efficiency of the structure since wave energy is transmitted through the porous body of the plate. Based on the hydrodynamic characteristics it is inferred that the breakwater with an impermeable plate attached to its bottom is more efficient. The comparison of horizontal and vertical forces acting on the breakwater for all cases examined reveals that plate porosity influences slightly vertical force and severely horizontal force acting on the structure, reducing maximum values in both cases.     

Numerical simulation for the two-dimensional nonlinear shallow water waves

This study deals with the general numerical model to simulate the two-dimensional tidal flow, flooding wave (long wave) and shallow water waves (short wave). The foundational model is based on nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Numerical method for modelling the short waves is investigated in detail. The forces, such as Coriolis forces, wind stress, atmosphere and bottom friction, are considered. A two-dimensional implicit difference scheme of Boussinesq equations is proposed. The low-reflection outflow open boundary is suggested. By means of this model,both velocity fields of circulation current in a channel with step expansion and the wave diffraction behind a semi-infinite breakwater are computed, and the results are satisfactory.