Short-term beach–dune sand budgets on the north sea coast of France: Sand supply from shoreface to dunes, and the role of wind and fetch

Three experimental plots, covering the transition from the upper beach to the dune, on the North Sea coast of France were monitored at various intervals over a period of 18–24 months via high resolution terrain surveys in order to determine inter-site sand budget variability, as well as patterns and processes involved in sand exchanges between the upper beach and dune. The wind regime consists of a fairly balanced mix of moderate (80% of winds are below 8 m/s) onshore, offshore and shore-parallel winds. Sustained dune accretion over several years depends on the periodic local onshore welding of shoreface tidal banks that have developed in the storm- and tide-dominated setting of the southern North Sea. The only site where this has occurred in the recent past is Calais, where bank welding has created a wide accreting upper beach sand flat. At this site, significant sand supply from the subtidal sand bank reservoir to the upper beach flat occurred only once over the 18-month survey following a major storm. The bulk of the sand deposited over this large flat is not directly integrated into the adjacent embryo dunes by onshore winds but is progressively reworked in situ into developing dunes or transported alongshore by the balanced wind regime, thus resulting in alongshore stretching of the embryo dune system. The Leffrinckoucke site near Belgium shows moderate beach–dune mobility and accretion, while the Wissant site exhibits significant upper beach bedform mobility controlled by strong longshore currents that result in large beach budget fluctuations with little net budget change, to the detriment of the adjacent dunes. Accretion at these two sites, which are representative of the rest of the North Sea coast of France, is presently constrained by the absence of a shore-attached sand bank supply reservoir, while upper beach–dune sand exchanges are further limited by the narrow wave-affected upper beach, the intertidal morphology of bars and troughs which segments the aeolian fetch, and the moderate wind energy conditions. The balanced wind regime limits net sand mobilisation in favour of either the beach or the dune, and may explain the relatively narrow longshore morphology of the dune ridges bounding this coast.     

A wind tunnel simulation of the dynamic processes involved in sand dune formation on the western coast of Hainan Island

The western coast of Hainan Island exhibits a savanna landscape. Many types of sand dunes, including transverse dune ridges, longitudinal dune ridges, elliptical dunes, coppice dunes, and climbing dunes, are widely distributed in the coastal zone. In winter, high-frequency and high-energy NE winds (dominant winds) are prevalent, with a resultant drift direction (RDD) of S35.6°W. In spring, low-frequency and low-energy SW secondary winds prevail, with a RDD of N25.1°E. Wind tunnel simulations revealed that the airflow over the dune surface is the main factor controlling the erosion and deposition patterns of dune surfaces and the morphological development of dunes. In the region's bidirectional wind en-vironment, with two seasonally distinct energy levels, the airflow over the surface of elliptical dunes, barchan dunes, and transverse dune ridges will exhibit a transverse pattern, whereas the airflow over longitudinal dunes ridges exhibits a lateral pattern and that over climbing dunes exhibits a climbing-circumfluent pattern. These patterns represent different dynamic processes. The coastal dunes on the western coast of Hainan Island are influenced by factors such as onshore winds, sand sources, coastal slopes, rivers, and forest shelter belts. The source of the sand that supplements these dunes particularly influences the development pattern: when there is more sand, the pattern shows positive equilibrium deposition between dune ridges and dunes; otherwise, it shows negative equilibrium deposition. The presence or absence of forest shelter belts also influences deposition and dune development patterns and transformation of dune forms. Coastal dunes and inland desert dunes experience similar dynamic processes, but the former have more diversified shapes and more complex forma-tion mechanisms.     

海南岛西海岸沙丘形成动力过程的风洞模拟试验

The western coast of Hainan Island exhibits a savanna landscape. Many types of sand dunes, including transverse dune ridges, longitudinal dune ridges, elliptical dunes, coppice dunes, and climbing dunes, are widely distributed in the coastal zone. In winter, high-frequency and high-energy NE winds (dominant winds) are prevalent, with a resultant drift direction (RDD) of S35.6°W. In spring, low-frequency and low-energy SW secondary winds prevail, with a RDD of N25.1°E. Wind tunnel simulations revealed that the airflow over the dune surface is the main factor controlling the erosion and deposition patterns of dune surfaces and the morphological development of dunes. In the region’s bidirectional wind en- vironment, with two seasonally distinct energy levels, the airflow over the surface of elliptical dunes, barchan dunes, and transverse dune ridges will exhibit a transverse pattern, whereas the airflow over longitudinal dunes ridges exhibits a lateral pattern and that over climbing dunes exhibits a climbing-circumfluent pattern. These patterns represent different dynamic processes. The coastal dunes on the western coast of Hainan Island are influenced by factors such as onshore winds, sand sources, coastal slopes, rivers, and forest shelter belts. The source of the sand that supplements these dunes particularly influences the development pattern: when there is more sand, the pattern shows positive equilibrium deposition between dune ridges and dunes; otherwise, it shows negative equilibrium deposition. The presence or absence of forest shelter belts also influences deposition and dune development patterns and transformation of dune forms. Coastal dunes and inland desert dunes experience similar dynamic processes, but the former have more diversified shapes and more complex formation mechanisms.     

巴丹吉林沙漠高大沙山的形成发育研究

通过对巴丹吉林沙漠高大沙山的考察，以及沙丘形态和风况、沙山TL测年、古沙丘层理产状等的研究表明，高大沙山的形成发育受沙源、风系、底基地形和灌草植被等因素的影响。第四纪以来弱水古水系的变迁为沙漠及沙山的发育提供了丰富的沙物质来源。沙山发育的受西风和西北风两大盛行风系的控制，末次冰期以前为西风环流主导时期，地表盛行风向为西风，次为西北风；末次冰期以来为季风环流主导时期，地表盛 行风为西北风，次为西风。沙山底基地形的起伏不仅诱发近地表气流产生波伏运动，同时也是风沙流运行的障碍。气候湿润期发育的沙丘灌草植被通过抑制风蚀、扑捉风沙等作用加速沙山的发育。高大沙山是新月形沙丘和沙丘链、复合新月形沙丘和沙丘链演进而形成的大型稳定风积床面形态。     

Controls on the formation of coastal ventifacts

Ventifacted boulders are present within the intertidal zone of a mixed sand and boulder beach in Gweebarra Bay, northwest Ireland. The boulders show features typical of wind abrasion by sand including polished surfaces, pits and grooves. Orientation of ventifact keels was measured and direction of prevailing winds responsible for ventifaction was inferred from a sample of 50 boulders in each of two adjoining locations on the beach (30 m apart). The keel orientations and inferred wind direction are both strongly clustered but results from each location differ by 90° from one another, and neither corresponds closely to the present-day regional wind regime. Since wind flow patterns were not significantly different during the Little Ice Age, when the ventifacts were likely formed, the orientation of ventifact keels cannot be used uncritically, as in many studies, as a proxy record of prevailing wind direction. It is likely that ventifact development in Gweebarra Bay was controlled by sediment availability rather than by wind direction.     

巴丹吉林沙漠沙山发育与环境演变研究

通过对巴丹吉林沙漠风沙地貌、沙山地层结构、古沙山层理构造、沙山TL测年和区域输沙率等的综合研究表明,巴丹吉林地区自西北而东南大致可划分为河湖为主的弱水冲洪积扇、以河湖与风沙交替作用过度区和以风沙作用为主沙丘区。弱水冲洪积扇的发育为沙漠、沙山的发育提供了丰富的沙物质来源。高大沙山是更新世期间起伏的沙质下垫面与西风环流和季风环流相互作用的结果。末次冰期以前为西风环流为主时期,地表主导风向为西风,次为西北风,河湖环境发育;末次冰期以来为东亚季风环流为主时期,地表盛行风向为西北风,次为西风,风沙活动盛行。期间,风积床面经历了新月形、新月形沙丘链、复合新月形、复合沙丘链到复合型高大沙山的一系列复合、演变与发展过程。     

Beach–dune interactions on the dry–temperate Danube delta coast

Beach–dune seasonal elevation changes, aeolian sand transport measurements, bathymetric surveys and shoreline evolution assessments were used to investigate annual and seasonal patterns of dune development on Sfântu Gheorghe beach, the Danube delta coast, from 1997 to 2004. Dune volume increased consistently (1.96 m³ m^− 1 y^− 1 to 5.1 m³ m^− 1 y^− 1) over this 7-year period with higher rates in the southward (downdrift) direction. Dune aggradation is periodically limited by storms, each of which marks a new evolutionary phase of the beach–dune system. As a consequence of the variable beach morphology and vegetation density during a year, foredune growth occurs during the April–December interval while between December and April a slightly erosive tendency is present. The pattern of erosion and deposition shown by the topographical surveys is in good agreement with the sand transport measurements and demonstrates the presence of a vigorous sand flux over the foredunes which is 20–50% smaller than on the beach. This high sand flux, due to low precipitation and sparse vegetation cover, creates an aerodynamically efficient morphology on the seaward dune slope. The seaward dune face accretes during low to medium onshore winds (5.5–12 m s^− 1) and erodes during high winds (> 12 m s^− 1).     

BEACH RIDGES AND PALEOGEOGRAPHY,CENTRAL BAJA CALIFORNIA,MEXICO

Two spatially separated sets of beach ridges were studied in Baja California. Each set contains several well-preserved beach ridges and each is adjacent to an arroyo mouth. Modern beach ridges mark coastal location whereas abandoned paleobeach ridges record coastal change. Paleobeach ridges were dated by absolute and relative techniques for rate-change, chronology, and longshore correlation purposes. With time, shape becomes more planar, foreslope angle is reduced, and there is a progressive tendency for constituent shingle to disintegrate and develop both rinds and surficial roughness. One paleobeach ridge on the lowest emergent terrace was assigned a 1,150 ± 230 yr. B.P. radiocarbon date whereas another beach ridge 18 km farther north has a partially overlapping date. Older but undated beach ridges also exist on the lowest emergent terrace as well as on the highest persistent terrace. Those beach ridges on the highest persistent terrace are highly weathered and Pleistocene in age. All beach ridges have paleogeographic implications and suggest that shoreline orientation has been generally stable although its position has shifted laterally by up to 720m westward in the last 1,150 ± 230 years.     

Dune sand transport as influenced by wind directions, speed and frequencies in the Ordos Plateau, China

The Ordos Plateau in China is a region with extensive wind erosion, severe desertification and various aeolian sand hazards. In order to determine aeolian sand transport in this region, the relationship between the sand transport rate and wind speed at 10 min frequencies was established by field observation in both the Qubqi Sand Desert and the Mu Us Sandy Land. Threshold wind speeds (2 m above the ground) for mobile, semi-fixed and fixed dune surfaces were estimated by field observations. The sand transport rate increased with the increase of the bare land ratio and near-bed wind speed. High-resolution meteorological 10 min average wind velocity data at 10 m above the ground were converted into velocity values at a height of 2 m to calculate sand transport potential based on three specific parameters decisive for sand transport: wind speed, duration and direction. The quantity of aeolian sand transported was calculated for various wind speed levels and directions, and the overall characteristics of sand transport on different dune surface types were determined by vector operation techniques. Sand transporting winds took place mainly in springtime. The prevailing wind directions were W, WNW and NW, with a frequency of more than 60% in total, and sand transport in these directions made up more than 70% of the total transport, corresponding to a general southeastward encroachment of aeolian sand in the study area. The relationship between wind frequency and speed can be expressed by a power function. High magnitude strong winds had a low frequency, but they played a dominant role in aeolian sand transport.     

鄱阳湖湖滨沙山垄状地形的成因

江西星子县沙岭沙山位于鄱阳湖湖滨,临湖一侧发育顺盛行风方向延伸的垄状地形。研究从地貌学、沉积学和年代学的角度分析了垄状地形的成因。按照目前的风场计算出的沙丘走向与合成输沙方向近于垂直,说明这些垄状地形不是纵向沙丘。垄状地形内部发育平行层理,缺少滑动面,则进一步表明垄状地形并非沙丘。对垄状地形之间的沟谷形态观察后发现,这些沟谷与前丘上槽形风蚀坑形态颇为相似,且沙山的环境具备发育槽形风蚀坑的基本条件,所以我们将垄状地形之间的沟谷视为槽形风蚀坑。为确定风蚀坑的形成时代,我们在沙山上风区、下风区边缘选取了6个剖面,测得的28个光释光年龄显示,构成垄状地形的沙层堆积于约20kaBP以前的末次冰期。据此我们推测在冬季风最强的阶段(18-14kaBP),沙山由以前的风沙堆积转变为风沙侵蚀,产生了槽形风蚀坑。相邻槽形风蚀坑之间的条状突起就构成了垄状地形,因此星子县沙岭沙山临湖一侧的垄状地形属于风蚀地貌。     

Distribution of ephemeral plants and their significance in dune stabilization in Gurbantunggut Desert

Based on systematically monitoring plants on dune ridges in the southern part of the Gurbantunggut Desert in 2002, this paper, from the angle of dune stabilization by vegetation, describes the temporal and spatial distribution patterns of ephemeral plants on isolated sand dunes, analyses the natural invasion processes of ephemeral plants on human-disturbed sand surface and expounds the importance of ephemeral plants in stabilizing sand dune surface. A total of 45 plant species were identified in the study area, 29 of which are ephemeral plants. Ephemeral plants sprouted in early April and completed their life-circle within about two months. Just as aeolian sand activities came to the strongest stage from April to June in desert regions of northern Xinjiang, the total coverage of trees, shrubs and herbs of long vegetational period on most dune ridges was less than 10%, while the mean coverage of ephemeral plants reached 13.9% in April, 40.2% in May and 14.1% in June. Therefore ephemeral plants acted as the major contributor to dune surface stabilization in the Gurbantunggut Desert. Investigations of vegetation restoration on engineering-disturbed dune surface show that ephemeral plants first recolonized the disturbed dune surface.     

古尔班通古特沙漠短命植物分布及其沙面稳定意义

Based on systematically monitoring plants on dune ridges in the southern part of the Gurbantunggut Desert in 2002, this paper, from the angle of dune stabilization by vegetation,describes the temporal and spatial distribution patterns of ephemeral plants on isolated sand dunes,analyses the natural invasion processes of ephemeral plants on human-disturbed sand surface and expounds the importance of ephemeral plants in stabilizing sand dune surface. A total of 45 plant species were identified in the study area, 29 of which are ephemeral plants. Ephemeral plants sprouted in early April and completed their life-circle within about two months. Just as aeolian sand activities came to the strongest stage from April to June in desert regions of northern Xinjiang, the total coverage of trees, shrubs and herbs of long vegetational period on most dune ridges was less than 10%, while the mean coverage of ephemeral plants reached 13.9% in April, 40.2% in May and 14.1% in June. Therefore ephemeral plants acted as the major contributor to dune surface stabilization in the Gurbantunggut Desert.Investigations of vegetation restoration on engineering-disturbed dune surface show that ephemeral plants first recolonized the disturbed dune surface.     

TRANSFORMATION PATTERNS OF SUBAERIAL MICRO-TIDAL BEACHES

Seven subaerial, low energy beaches in the SE Mediterranean were surveyed biweekly for 13 months. Beach level data were computer-processed and plotted as time-series profile diagrams that differentiated the subaerial beach into three basic subenvironments: backshore, berm, and swash-zone. Heterogeneous seasonal trends in beach sand budget, erosion/accretion patterns, occurrence of ridges and berm-crests, and in pollution by seaborne tar were observed. The profile stations also showed very different degrees of seasonality, although located along similar beaches. Local beachrock protection, when evident, effectively masked seasonality by significantly lowering beach dynamics. Biweekly, seasonal, and annual fluctuations of the beach sand-budget were computed. Average annual net sand flux at the seven beaches was 66 m³/m of beach front, though wide variations occurred. Annual changes in the sand budget along the study area exceeded volumetric changes within the profile, indicating longshore sand transfer. Synchronism of beach behavior prevailed only at the seasonal level. However, intra-seasonal fluctuations for the different profile stations were out of phase, indicating poor synchronism of beach response due to longshore movement of rhythmic topography. Profile changes were thus often unrelated to concomitant wave-climate changes. The overall heterogeneous beach response was in sharp contrast to the identical wave climate, similar bathymetry, and sedimentology of the studied beaches.     

Effects of fetch and surface texture on aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches

Aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches was related to the fetch of the wind over the beach sand and to surface characteristics. Meteorological and hydrological conditions were recorded for 2 months. The fetch of wind over beach sand was estimated from wind direction, water level, wave height and beach topography. Aeolian sand transport was determined with sand traps. Sediment flux was found to increase with fetch, although this relation was especially affected by the variability in surface characteristics. On one of the beaches sediment supply was limited as a result of shells, forming a lag deposit.     

库姆塔格沙漠羽毛状沙垄风沙活动强度特征

以库姆塔格沙漠腹地的羽毛状沙垄为床面,通过风季实地观测与分析,研究了羽毛状沙垄的近地面风况、粒度特征及风沙流结构等。结果表明:羽毛状沙垄近地面风况具有明显的季节性,冬季盛行东风,其他季节盛行东北风;全年平均风速5.94 m·s-1,大于起沙风频率占总量的46.76%;新月形沙垄粒度变化在1.22～1.86之间,分选较好,垄间沙埂粒度变化在1.35～2.11之间,风选属于中偏差;随着风速的增大,地面以上0—2 cm高度层所含沙量有明显减少的趋势,2—20 cm所含沙量有增加的趋势,0—20 cm所含沙量占总输沙量的92.28%以上;在地面以上0—40 cm高度内,输沙率同2 m高处1 min平均风速为幂函数关系,不同性质的地表对输沙率有较大的影响;羽毛状沙垄的风速变化表现为新月形沙垄和垄间沙埂不同部位气流的增速和减速,风向变化表现为同风场下沙垄与沙埂风向夹角的存在。     

腾格里沙漠东南缘沙丘迎风坡风速变化的初步研究

对腾格里沙漠东南缘格状沙丘表面气流的观测结果表明,迎风坡风速的增加程度因坡成形态和原始气流的方向,强度而不同。迎风坡风速放大率介于１．０６～１．９１之间,且在格状沙丘主梁,主要与坡形系数和高度有关;在副梁随原始风入射角,坡形系数而变化,风速放大率对沙丘形态的影响主一要增加丘顶区域的输沙率和活动性,且因区域气流的方向和强度而不同,在横向气流条件下,其迎风坡随区域气流强度和增加而变缓,变长,在双向（斜     

栅栏在防止前沿积沙中的作用——以沙坡头地区为例

在沙坡头地区的铁路北侧,进行了防护带的前沿栅栏阻沙试验研究。经过三个风季初步观测表明:格状沙丘的主梁移动是缓慢的,通过栅栏阻沙量计算求得其移速为0.56米/年。而沙丘副梁的前移迅速是格状沙丘的主要运动及其危害形式。据测定主风向上的可能输沙量平均为6.5m³/米宽·年,栅栏阻沙量平均为5.5m³/米宽·年,栅栏平均阻沙效率为70-80%。因此,利用栅栏等工程措施防止防护带前沿积沙是可行的,有效的。     

塔克拉玛干沙漠腹地复合沙垄间地新月形沙丘的逆向演变

通过对塔克拉玛干沙漠腹地复合沙垄间地新月形沙丘的形态变化、分布特征、移动特征进行测量,计算出沙丘移动输沙变化,证实该区存在新月形沙丘逆向演变。逆向演变过程的发生主要由于沙垄间地的高度不饱和风沙流和该区新月形沙丘较小的高度。高度不饱和风沙流形成于沙垄背风坡底到垄间地中部的加速过程和粗沙地表的作用,从沙垄底部到垄间地中部的粒度变化,风沙流垂直结构都有所反映。新月形沙丘为沙垄背风坡上覆沙丘脱离沙垄而成,高度在2m左右,该区次风向使新月形沙丘宽度减小以及粗沙地表在强弱风交替作用下增加沙丘移动过程中沙丘沙的滞留量都有利于沙丘逆向演变。     

海岸沙丘沙运动特征若干问题的研究——以闽江口南岸为例

在海岸带,沙粒粒径和水分含量是决定沙粒起动风速的最主要因素。闽江口南岸海滩沙的平均粒径为2.0Φ,水分含量多在0.3%~1.0%之间。运用Johnson的经验公式,可计算出海滩沙的起动风速为6~7m/s。这一结果与实际观测值十分吻合。由于海岸环境因素的影响,使得同等条件下海岸带沙粒的起动风速明显大于内陆沙漠沙,而风沙流的输沙率明显小于内陆沙漠沙。海岸带是风速剧变带,在引用陆地气象台站的风速记录分析海岸风况和研究风沙运动规律时,必须对风速进行订正。     

偏西风作用下敦煌月牙泉金字塔沙山顶部风沙流初步观测研究

金字塔沙山丘体高大,形态复杂,坡面风沙动力过程实地观测困难,至今尚无坡面风沙流野外观测数据。通过新研制自动集沙仪,对偏西风作用下敦煌月牙泉北侧金字塔沙山顶部风沙流进行了实时观测,共观测8组近地表51.4 cm高度内输沙数据,各观测时段中2 m高度平均风速7.46～14.15 m·s^-1,各组观测时长18~95 min。结果表明：偏西风纵向气流作用下金字塔沙山风沙流结构与平坦地表一致,即输沙量随高度增加呈单一的指数规律递减,且风沙流主要在近地表30 cm高度内输移。风沙流结构特征值λ以大于1为主,且随风速增大而增大,表明金字塔沙山坡面过程主要表现为风蚀过程。偏西风作用下金字塔沙山风沙流中沙粒以细沙为主,平均粒径随高度增加而减小;沙山迎风坡沙粒从坡脚到沙脊线逐渐粗化,风蚀作用增强,细沙从而随风沙流搬运至沙山顶,对金字塔沙山多以细沙为主的格局形成起重要作用。