The reflection of oblique waves by an infinite number of partially perforated caissons

This study examines the reflection of obliquely incident waves by an infinite array of partially perforated caissons. Based on the linear potential theory, an analytical solution of the present problem was developed by means of the matched eigenfunction expansion method. The solution was obtained in a single strip consisting of the semi-infinite narrow region in front of a caisson and the fluid domain inside this caisson. It was then extended to the whole fluid domain by using the periodicities of the structure and the incident waves along the length of the caissons. The present model was validated by comparing the reflection coefficients of several limiting cases with the corresponding results obtained by previous researchers. Numerical experiments were also conducted to examine the variations of the reflection coefficient versus its main effect factors. The numerical results indicate the differences between the present model and the previous limiting cases, and some helpful results are recommended for practical engineering.     

Interaction of oblique waves with an infinite cylinder

A Green's function procedure is applied to compute the oblique wave interaction with a cylinder of arbitrary section on the free surface in water of infinite depth. Also, the hydrodynamic coefficients associated with the motion of the cylinder oscillating in its three degrees of freedom, periodic along its axis, are treated. A computer program based on the present procedure is found to be accurate and efficient. The results are applicable to the analysis of floating breakwaters, floating bridges, ship hulls and other elongated structures on a free surface.     

开孔沉箱在斜向入射波作用下受力研究

应用透空壁内流体速度与壁两侧的压力差成正比的线性模型,研究了斜向波与无限多个开孔沉箱的相互作用.依照结构物的几何形状,把整个流域分成无限多个子域,在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法对速度势进行展开.对于沉箱内的波浪运动,引入相位差概念;在构造反射波模型时,考虑了结构物的几何形状影响.列举出物理模型实验结果与数值实验结果的比较,可以看出两者吻合较好.进一步的数值计算验证表明,当孔隙系数无限大时,开孔墙前后的速度非常接近.在低频入射波作用下,垂直于沉箱的水平力随角度的变大而减小,平行于沉箱排列方向的力则变大.     

开孔沉箱与斜向波作用的理论研究和实验验证

应用透空壁内流体速度与壁两侧的压力差成正比的线性模型,研究了无限多个开孔沉箱在斜向波作用下的反射问题。整个流域被分成无限多个子域,在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法对速度势进行展开。对于沉箱内的波浪运动,根据沉箱位置引入相位差概念。在构造反射波模型时,考虑了结构物几何形状周期性的影响。结果表明,当孔隙系数无限大时,开孔墙前后的速度非常接近,反射系数符合能量守恒定律。在低频入射波作用下,沉箱越短,其反射系数越小,反射系数随着角度的变大而减小。     

Finite element method for strong reflection of water waves

In this study, the propagation of monochromatic water waves over an arbitrarily varying topography is numerically investigated. A finite element model is developed by formulating the diffraction of waves caused by depth changes. Not only the propagating mode but also the evanescent modes are included in the model. The model developed is applied to the study of strong reflection of monochromatic waves over a sinusoidally varying topography. Predicted reflection coefficients are compared with those of available laboratory experiments and the eigenfunction expansion method. A very good agreement is observed.     

Scattering of oblique waves by permeable vertical flexible membrane wave barriers

The interaction of obliquely incident surface gravity waves with a vertical flexible permeable submerged membrane wave barrier is investigated in the context of three-dimensional linear water wave theory. From the general formulation of the submerged membrane barrier, the performance of bottom-standing, surface-piercing and fully extended membrane wave barriers are analyzed for various values of wave and structural parameters. The analytic solution of the physical problem is obtained using eigenfunction expansion method and a coupled boundary element-finite difference method has been used to get the numerical solution. In the boundary element method, since the boundary condition on the membrane barrier is not known a priori, the membrane response and velocity potentials are solved simultaneously using appropriate discretization with the help of finite difference scheme. The convergence of the analytic and numerical solution techniques is discussed. The study reveals that for suitable combination of wave and structural parameters, approximately (45–50)% incident wave energy can be dissipated irrespective of membrane barrier configurations. Further, in certain situations, nearly full wave reflection and zero transmission occur for all barrier configurations. The study will be useful in the design of flexible permeable membrane to act as an effective wave barrier for creation of tranquility zone in the marine environment.     

双层局部开孔板沉箱对波浪反射的理论研究

提出了一种用于研究由双层开孔板和一个不透水后板的开孔结构对斜向波反射率的理论分析方法。整个流域被分成三个子域，在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法以得到该域内包含未知展开系数的势函数的表达式，在速度势的展开中，考虑了非传播模态波浪的影响。通过匹配开孔板处的边界条件可以求解待定的展开系数，继而求解双层开孔板防波堤结构对斜向波的反射率。数值计算结果与试验结果进行了比较，符合较好。并进一步讨论了几个重要因素对反射系数的影响。     

Interaction of regular waves with a group of dual porous circular cylinders

Diffraction of linear waves around a group of dual porous cylinders consisting of a thin and porous outer cylinder with an impermeable inner cylinder is investigated analytically based on the eigenfunction expansion method proposed by Spring and Monkmeyer [Spring BH, Monkmeyer PL. Interaction of plane waves with vertical cylinders. In: Proceedings 14th international coastal engineering conference. 1974. p. 1828–47] and further modified by Linton and Evans [Linton CM, Evans DV. The interaction of waves with arrays of vertical circular cylinders. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 1990;215:549–69]. The present formulation is an extension of the work of Wang and Ren [Wang KH, Ren X. Wave interaction with a concentric porous cylinder system. Ocean Engineering 1994;21(4):343–60], wherein; the interaction of linear waves with a single concentric porous cylinder system was studied. This paper aims at investigating the influence of multiple interactions between the cylinders in the group on the hydrodynamic wave forces, wave run-up and free-surface elevation in their vicinity. Further, the study focuses on the variation of the forces and run-up on the individual cylinders within the group compared to that on isolated cylinders.     

Interaction of cnoidal waves with an array of vertical concentric porous cylinders

An array of large concentric porous cylinder arrays is mounted in shallow water exposed to cnoidal waves. The interactions between waves and cylinders are studied theoretically using an eigenfunction expansion approach. Semi-analytical solutions of hydrodynamic loads and wave run-up on each cylinder are obtained using first approximation to cnoidal waves. The square array configuration of four-legged identical concentric porous cylinder is investigated in present study. Numerical results reveal the variation of dimensionless wave force and wave run-up on individual cylinder with angle of incidence, porosity parameter, spacing between outer and inner cylinders, spacing between concentric porous cylinders and wave parameter. Different mechanism of wave force is found under different range of scattering parameter.     

Kinematics of overturning solitary waves and their relations to breaker types

Numerical simulations using a full-nonlinear BIM (Boundary Integral Method) potential-theory wave model are carried out to study the internal velocity and acceleration fields of an solitary wave overturning on a reef with vertical face (submerged breakwater) and their relation to breaker type. The simulations make it clear that the jet size normalized by the incident wave height is uniquely governed by the crown height of the reef, while the jet shape is similar and independent of the size. Further, they reveal that the overall internal kinematics of overturning waves is clearly related to the jet size. As the jet size increases and the breaker type changes from spilling to plunging, the kinematics thus become increasingly different from those of steady waves. Water particles with the greatest velocities or accelerations within the wave converge towards the jet. After the breaking, both of the velocities and accelerations almost simultaneously reach extreme values near locations beneath the jet. Some of the extreme values are closely related to the breaker type and can be uniquely determined by substituting the breaker type index into the regression equations suggested here.     

Effect of higher-order bottom variation terms on the refraction of water waves in the extended mild-slope equations

This study investigates how the refraction of water waves is affected by the higher-order bottom effect terms proportional to the square of bottom slope and to the bottom curvature in the extended mild-slope equations. Numerical analyses are performed on two cases of waves propagating over a circular shoal and over a circular hollow. Numerical results are analyzed using the eikonal equation derived from the wave equations and the wave ray tracing technique. It is found that the higher-order bottom effect terms change the wavelength and, in turn, change the refraction of waves over a variable depth. In the case of waves over a circular shoal, the higher-order bottom effects increase the wavelength along the rim of shoal more than near the center of shoal, and intensify the degree of wave refraction. However, the discontinuity of higher-order bottom effects along the rim of shoal disperses the foci of wave rays. As a result, the amplification of wave energy behind the shoal is reduced. Conversely, in the case of waves over a circular hollow, the higher-order bottom effects decrease the wavelength near the center of the hollow in comparison with the case of neglecting higher-order bottom effects. Consequently, the degree of wave refraction is decreased, and the spreading of wave energy behind the hollow is reduced.     

Effective boundary element method for the interaction of oblique waves with long prismatic structures in water of finite depth

An effective boundary element method (BEM) is presented for the interaction between oblique waves and long prismatic structures in water of finite depth. The Green's function used here is the basic Green's function that does not satisfy any boundary condition. Therefore, the discretized elements for the computation must be placed on all the boundaries. To improve the computational efficiency and accuracy, a modified method for treatment of the open boundary conditions and a direct analytical approach for the singularity integrals in the boundary integral equation are adopted. The present BEM method is applied to the calculation of hydrodynamic coefficients and wave exciting forces for long horizontal rectangular and circular structures. The performance of the present method is demonstrated by comparisons of results with those generated by other analytical and numerical methods.     

Experimental study of the transformation of bound long waves over a mild slope with ambient currents

The effect of currents on the variation of cross-shore bound long waves forced by bichromatic waves over a plane slope was investigated in the laboratory. In still water the growth rate of the shoaling bound long waves over the slope is proportional to h^– 5/2 (h is still-water depth). It was found that the opposing current makes the amplitudes of the bound long waves greater than those of still water for all cases. However, the amplitudes of bound long waves in a following current are reduced in the weakly modulated cases but are enhanced in the fully modulated case.     

Interaction of linear waves with an array of infinitely long horizontal circular cylinders in a two-layer fluid of infinite depth

The linear water wave scattering and radiation by an array of infinitely long horizontal circular cylinders in a two-layer fluid of infinite depth is investigated by use of the multipole expansion method. The diffracted and radiated potentials are expressed as a linear combination of infinite multipoles placed at the centre of each cylinder with unknown coefficients to be determined by the cylinder boundary conditions. Analytical expressions for wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients, reflection and transmission coefficients and energies are derived. Comparisons are made between the present analytical results and those obtained by the boundary element method, and some examples are presented to illustrate the hydrodynamic behavior of multiple horizontal circular cylinders in a two-layer fluid. It is found that for two submerged circular cylinders the influence of the fluid density ratio on internal-mode wave forces is more appreciable than surface-mode wave forces, and the periodic oscillations of hydrodynamic results occur with the increase of the distance between two cylinders; for four submerged circular cylinders the influence of adding two cylinders on the wave forces of the former cylinders is small in low and high wave frequencies, but the influence is appreciable in intermediate wave frequencies.