Interaction between waves and an array of floating porous circular cylinders

The present study theoretically as well as experimentally investigates the interaction between waves and an array of porous circular cylinders with or without an inner porous plate based on the linear wave theory.To design more effective floating breakwaters,the transmission rate of waves propagating through the array is evaluated.Each cylinder in the array is partly made of porous materials.Specifically,it possesses a porous sidewall and an impermeable bottom.In addition,an inner porous plate is horizontally fixed inside the cylinders.It dissipates the wave more effectively and eliminates the sloshing phenomenon.The approach suggested by Kagemoto and Yue(1986) is adopted to solve the multiple-scatter problem,while a hierarchical interaction theory is adopted to deal with hydrodynamic interactions among a great number of bodies,which efficiently saves computation time.Meanwhile,a series of model tests with an array of porous cylinders is performed in a wave basin to validate the theoretical work and the calculated results.The draft of the cylinders,the location of the inner porous plate,and the spacing between adjacent cylinders are also adjusted to investigate their effects on wave dissipation.     

Experimental Study of Wave Breaking on Gentle Slope

—An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentleslope of 1:200.In the experiment,asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wavebreaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regu-lar waves on very mild slopes.The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influ-ence of bottom slope i,relative water depth d/L_0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regularwaves.The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, whilethe coefficient A should be 0.15.The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wavetheory is 0.74.Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after break-ing and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves.     

Observations and Estimations of Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves

The directional spectrum is one of the basic characteristics of sea waves. The observations of directional spectrum of sea waves were successfully conducted at platform Bohai 8 during 1991 and 1992 using a wave gage array for the first time in China. Based on the field data, the directional spectrum which depends on the wave growth is given in this paper. Before observations, the effects of the type of gage array, the distance between the gages and the platform itself on the measured results and the precision of some methods for estimating the directional spectrum were investigated and compared with the methods of numerical simulations and model tests of multi-direcitonal irregular waves. This ensures the quality of the observations and estimations of the directional spectrum.     

Experimental Investigation of Wave Heights in A Directional Wave Field Through Image Sequences

Measurements of wave heights with image sequences from a Charged Coupled Device(CCD) camera were made. Sinusoidal, as well as unidirectional and directional, waves were used for the experiments. A transfer function was obtained by calibration of the magnitudes of the gray values of the images against the results of wave gauge measurements for directional waves. With this transfer function, wave heights for regular waves were deduced. It is shown that the average relative errors are smaller than 16% for both unidirectional and directional waves.     

Laboratory research on effective test area of short-crested waves generated by two-sided segmented wavemakers

The size and shape of the effective test area are crucial to consider when short-crested waves are created by segmented wavemakers. The range of the effective test area of short-crested waves simulated by two-sided segmented wavemakers is analyzed in this paper. The experimental investigation on the wave field distribution of short-crested waves generated by two-sided segmented wavemakers is conducted by using an array of wave gauges. Wave spectra and directional spreading function are analyzed and the results show that when the main direction is at a certain angle with the normal line of wave generators, the wave field of 3D short-crested waves generated by two-sided segmented wavemakers has good spatial uniformity within the model test area. The effective test area can provide good wave environments for seakeeping model tests of various ocean engineering structures in the deep ocean engineering basin.     

Elimination of Wind Wave Effects on Sub-Bottom Profiler Record

With the presence of wind waves, the swaying of survey vessel may effect the quality of sub-bottom profiler records and, therefore, it is necessary to correct the distortions induced by wave action. A major issue is to distinguish wind wave effect and real bedforms such as sand waves. In this paper, a bandstop filter is designed according to the frequency features of wind wave effect to treat the distortion of seabed topography by wind waves. The technique is used to correct the sub-bottom profile in order to eliminate the wave-induced distortions for the sub-bottom profile records from the Yangtze Estuary. This study shows that the undulate seabed record is resulted from wave action, rather than the presence of sand waves, and the filtration technique helps to eliminate the wave effect and recover the real morphology of seabed and the sediment sequence underneath. In addition, a method for data processing is proposed for the case that the record indeed represents a combination of wave effects and real bedforms.     

Hydrodynamic behavior of curtainwall-pile breakwaters

A numerical model is developed that can predict the interaction of regular waves normally incident upon a curtainwall-pile breakwater; the upper part of which is a vertical wall and the lower part consists of an array of vertical piles. The numerical model is based on an eigenfunction expansion method, and utilizes a boundary condition nearby the vertical piles that accounts for wave energy dissipation. Numerical solution comprises a finite number of terms, which is a superposition of propagating waves and a series of evanescent waves. The modeling is validated by comparison with previous experimental studies and overall agreement between measurement and calculation is fairly good. The numerical results are related to reflection, transmission, and dissipation coefficient; wave run-up, wave force, and wave overturning moment are also presented. Effect of porosity, relative draft, and relative water depth are discussed; the choice of suitable range of them is described. The relative draft is more effective for shallow water waves. Model shows decrease in relative draft and leads to reduction of relative wave force, overturning moment, and runup. It is shown that curtainwall-pile breakwaters can operate both effectively and efficiently in the range of relative draft between 0.15 and 0.75. The range 0.5 to 0.2 is also recommended for porosity.     

Analysis of Directional Spectra and Reflection Coefficients in Incident and Reflected Wave Field

In this paper, the modified Bayesian method for the analysis of directional wave spectra and reflection coefficients is verified by numerical and physical simulation of waves. The results show that the method can basically separate the incident and reflected directional spectra. In addition, the effect of the type of wave gage arrays, the number of measured wave properties, and the distance between the wave gage array and the reflection line on the resolution of the method are investigated. Some suggestions are proposed for practical application.     

The initialization of nonlinear water waves in a numerical wave flume

This study investigates the initialization of nonlinear free-surface simulations in a numerical wave flume.Due to the mismatch between the linear input wavemaker motion and the kinematics of fully nonlinear waves,direct numerical simulations of progressive waves,generated by a sinusoidally moving wavemaker,are prone to suffering from high-frequency wave instability unless the flow is given sufficient time to adjust.A time ramp is superimposed on the wavemaker motion at the start that allows nonlinear free-surface simulations to be initialized with linear input.The duration of the ramp is adjusted to test its efficiency for short waves and long waves.Numerical results show that the time ramp scheme is effiective to stabilize the wave instability at the start of the simulation in a wave flume.     

Wave Breaking Phenomena of Irregular Waves Combined with Opposing Current

- Experimental study and theoretical analysis show that the critical value of relative wave height (H/ d)b given by Goda and the critical wave steepness (H/ L)b given by Michell and Miche can be adopted as the spilling breaking indices of regular waves. According to the same principle, a systematic theoretical analysis and experiment of irregular waves have been done by the authors in order to solve the breaking problem of irregular waves. It is indicated that the authors' method for determining wave breaking of regular waves can also be used for irregular waves.     

Analytical Study on Transmission and Reflection of Non-Linear Shallow Water Waves

The analytical study is made by using the method of matched asymptotic expansions on the transmission and reflection of solitary waves and cnoidal waves on two-dimensional floating bodies. The solutions give explicitly the variation pattern of the transmitted waves and the characteristics of the reflected waves, including the wave profile, amplitude, phase shift and evolution. The effects of the gap between the body and the sea bottom on the transmission and reflection of those waves are also discussed.     

Estimation Approaches of ηUV,PUV and UV Directional Wave Spectra and Their Comparison

The observation and estimation of directional spectra of sea waves is one of the essential subjects of study of oceanic dynamics. On the basis of the irregular linear wave theory, estimation methods for i/UV, PUV and VV directional wave spectra are derived. By using ij and PUV data measured in-situ, directional wave spectra are estimated, meanwhile the virtues and defects of various spectra are comparied. This method provide a basis for the observations of sea waves.     

Numerical Simulation of Wave Field near Submerged Bars by PLIC-VOF Model

Investigating the wave field near structures in coastal and offshore engineering is of increasing significance. In the present study, simulation is done of the wave profile and flow field for waves propagating over submerged bars, using PLIC-VOF （Pieeewise Linear Interface Construction） to trace the free surface of wave and finite difference method to solve vertical 2D Navier-Stokes （N-S） equations. A comparison of the numerical results for two kinds of submerged bars with the experimental ones shows that the PLIC-VOF model used in this study is effective and can compute the wave field precisely.     

An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed

The propagation speed is one of the most important characteristics for describing freak waves. The research of freak wave speed is not only helpful for understanding the generation mechanism and evolution process of freak waves, but also applicable to the prediction. A stable and accurate method is proposed for the calculation of the freak wave speed, in which physical model tests are carried out to measure the motion of the largest wave crest along the wave tank. The linear regression relationship between the spatial position of the largest wave crest and instantaneous moment is established to calculate the speed of totally 248 cases of experimental freak waves and 312 supplementary cases of numerical freak waves. Based on the calculate results, a semitheoretical and semiempirical formula is proposed by using a regression analysis method to predict the speed of the freak wave, and the nonlinear characteristic of the freak wave speed is also investigated.     

Shear Flow Dispersion Under Wave and Current

The longitudinal dispersion of solute in open channel flow with short period progressive waves is investigated. The waves induce second order drift velocity in the direction of propagation and enhance the mixing process in concurrent direction. The 1-D wave-period-averaged dispersion equation is derived and an expression for the wave-current induced longitudinal dispersion coefficient (WCLDC) is proposed based on Fischer's expression (1979) for dispersion in unidirectional flow. The result shows that the effect of waves on dispersion is mainly due to the cross-sectional variation of the drift velocity. Furthermore, to obtain a more practical expression of the WCLDC, the longitudinal dispersion coefficient due to Seo and Cheong (1998) is modified to incluee the effect of drift velocity. Laboratory experiments have been conducted to verify the proposed expression. The experimental results, together with dimensional analysis, show that the wave effect can be reflected by the ratio between the wave amplitude and wave period. A comparative study between the cases with and without waves demonstrates that the magnitude of the longitudinal dispersion coefficient is increased under the presence of waves.     

Numerical Investigating of Vertical Turbulent Jets in Different Types of Waves

The effects of various types of waves on vertical plane turbulent jets are studied numerically in the paper. A three-dimensional numerical model in σ -coordinate is developed to study these problems by use of large eddy simulation method. Turbulence is modeled by a dynamic coherent eddy model. Numerical results including the distribution of velocity, the decay law of the mean velocity along axis, the turbulent Reynolds stresses and the volume flux per unit width without wave, in the first-order Stokes waves, in the second-order Stokes waves, in the fifth-order Stokes waves, in the solitary waves and in random waves are compared and analyzed. A focus on coherent structures, probability density functions and correlation functions of jets is also investigated. The numerical results are of great theoretical importance for understanding jet turbulent behaviors in different types of waves.     

Development of A Fully Nonlinear Numerical Wave Tank

A fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) based on the solution of the σ-transformed Navier-Stokes equation is developed in this study. The numerical wave is generated from the inflow boundary, where the surface elevation and/or velocity are specified by use of the analytical solution or the laboratory data. The Sommerfeld/Orlanski radiation condition in eonjunetion with an artificial damping zone is applied to reduce wave reflection from the outflow boundary. The whole numerical solution procedures are split into three steps, i.e., advection, diffusion and propagation, and a new method, the Lagrange-Euler Method, instead of the MAC or VOF method, is introduced to solve the free surface elevation at the new time step. Several typical wave cases, including solitary waves, regular waves and irregular waves, are simulated in the wave tank. The robustness and accuracy of the NWF are verified by the good agreement between the numerical results and the linear or nonlinear analytical solutions. This research will be further developed by study of wave-wave, wave-current, wave-structure or wave-jet interaction in the future.     

Hydrodynamic Analysis of Elastic Floating Collars in Random Waves

As the main load-bearing component of fish cages, the floating collar supports the whole cage and undergoes large deformations. In this paper, a mathematical method is developed to study the motions and elastic deformations of elastic floating collars in random waves. The irregular wave is simulated by the random phase method and the statistical approach and Fourier transfer are applied to analyze the elastic response in both time and frequency domains. The governing equations of motions are established by Newton’s second law, and the governing equations of deformations are obtained based on curved beam theory and modal superposition method. In order to validate the numerical model of the floating collar attacked by random waves, a series of physical model tests are conducted. Good relationship between numerical simulation and experimental observations is obtained. The numerical results indicate that the transfer function of out-of-plane and in-plane deformations increase with the increasing of wave frequency. In the frequency range between 0.6 Hz and 1.1 Hz, a linear relationship exists between the wave elevations and the deformations. The average phase difference between the wave elevation and out-of-plane deformation is 60° with waves leading and the phase between the wave elevation and in-plane deformation is 10° with waves lagging. In addition, the effect of fish net on the elastic response is analyzed. The results suggest that the deformation of the floating collar with fish net is a little larger than that without net.     

Numerical Study of the High-Frequency Wave Loads and Ringing Response of A Bottom-Hinged Vertical Cylinder in Focused Waves

This paper presents a numerical study on the high-frequency wave loads and ringing response of offshore wind turbine foundations exposed to moderately steep transient water waves. Input wave groups are generated by the technique of frequency-focusing, and the numerical simulation of focused waves is based on the NewWave model and a Fourier time-stepping procedure. The proposed model is validated by comparison with the published laboratory data. In respect of both the wave elevations and the underlying water particle kinematics, the numerical results are in excellent agreement with the experimental data. Furthermore, the local evolution of power spectra and the transfer of energy into higher frequencies can be clearly identified. Then the generalized FNV theory and Rainey's model are applied respectively to calculate the nonlinear wave loads on a bottom-hinged vertical cylinder in focused waves.Resonant ringing response excited by the nonlinear high-frequency wave loads is found in the numerical simulation when frequency ratios(natural frequency of the structure to peak frequency of wave spectra) are equal to 3–5.Dynamic amplification factor of ringing response is also investigated for different dynamic properties(natural frequency and damping ratio) of the structure.