The relationship between the amplitudinal characteristics of the high-frequency spectral components of wind-generated waves and the wind velocity over the sea

The relationship between the RMS amplitudes of the wind wave spectral components and the wind speed has been studied at ten frequencies in the band of 0.65–23 Hz. To measure the parameters of the high-frequenci waves, a resistance elevation wave gauge was operated, which was deployed in the Black See on an oceanographic platform near Katsively. The correlation between the wave amplitudes and the wind velocity at high frequencies of 5–23 Hz, corresponding to gravitation-capillary ripples, was found to reach a value of 0.8. At lower frequencies of 0.65–4.3 Hz, corresponding to short gravity waves, it dropped to 0.5–0.7. The response of spectral components to the wind speed variations in the gravity-capillary range is higher than in the range of short gravity waves. The results obtained differ from Phillips' idea about a saturated range for the frequency form of the spectrum of high-frequency gravity waves, since a linear dependence of the spectral amplitudes on the wind speed is established at a wind of force 1–8.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Effects of internal waves on sound pulse propagation in the Straitsof Florida

An unexplained result of broad-band transmission experiments made more than ten years ago by DeFerrari in the Straits of Florida (center frequency ~500 Hz, bandwidth ~100 Hz, water depth ~200-m, range ~20 km) is that the measured pulse response functions failed to show the expected multipath replicas of the transmitted pulse and instead were smeared into a single broad cluster (duration ~50-~350 ms) in which the unresolved multipaths fluctuated rapidly in geophysical time (coherence time ≪12 min) leaving only a relatively stable envelope that is useful for oceanographic inversion. It is demonstrated here that the effects of internal waves on sound pulse propagation in the Straits of Florida can explain these observed results, and it is suggested that similar instabilities of acoustic multipaths due to internal waves are to be expected in other shallow-water propagation conditions. The demonstration is based on numerical simulations with the broad-band UMPE acoustic model that includes multiple forward scattering from volume inhomogeneities induced by internal wave fluctuations that are described by a broad spectrum of excitation. The simulated temporal variability, stability, and coherence of acoustic pulse arrivals are displayed on geophysical time scales from seconds to many hours and are qualitatively in agreement with the measured data in the Straits of Florida     

Laboratory investigation of damping of gravity-capillary waves on the surface of turbulized liquid

Investigation of damping of gravity-capillary waves (GCWs) in the presence of turbulence is a classical hydrodynamic problem which has important geophysical applications, one of which is related with the problem of forming a radar and optical image of a ship wake on wavy water surface. In this work a new method for the laboratory study of surface wave damping in turbulized liquid is described and the results are presented. The damping of standing GCWs by turbulence on the water surface in a tank mounted on a vibration table is studied. GCWs and turbulence are excited using a two-frequency mode of vibration table oscillations. A high-frequency small amplitude signal is used for parametric GCW excitation; a low-frequency large amplitude signal is used for generating turbulence due to water flowing through a fixed perforated grid submerged into the tank. The coefficient of GCW damping is determined by measured threshold of parametric excitation of the waves; turbulence characteristics are determined by the PIV and PTV techniques. Dependences of GCW damping coefficients on their frequency at different turbulence intensities are obtained, estimates for turbulent viscosity are presented, and a comparison with empirical models proposed earlier is performed.     

Radar scattering on gravity-capillary waves: Laboratory investigation

The mechanism of the resonance (Bragg) scattering of microwaves by gravity-capillary waves (GCWs) is checked experimentally. Resonant regularities of backscattered signal intensity are obtained as functions of frequency and GCW propagation direction. It is shown that the width of the resonance curves is determined by the width of the directivity pattern of the scatterometer’s antenna. The excitation of the GCW second harmonic and the spatial structure of the wave field at the GCW doubled frequency are investigated. The ratio of the amplitudes of the free wave and forced harmonic that originated during excitation of the primary wave is determined. The resonance curve is obtained for the second-order scattering of radio waves (on forced harmonics and free GCWs). The correction to the backscattering cross section is investigated in the second order of smallness relative to the Bragg term.     

在轴向应力-应变下海底沉积物声速及其变化

对南海南部海域海底浅表层沉积物短柱状样进行轴向应力-应变/声学测量,结果表明沉积物纵波声速有三种不同的变化结果:(1)声速从应变过程开始随应力-应变曲线变化,在最大应力时声速同时也是最大值,结束时可能高于或低于开始时的声速;(2)声速从应变过程开始逐渐减小,结束时是最小值;(3)声速从应变过程开始逐渐增大,最大值出现在结束时.这些结果与海底浅表层沉积物的物理力学性质、颗粒接触状态、颗粒的微结构等特征有关.研究结果可为深入认识南海南部各种海底沉积物作为承载界面的可靠性、声遥测遥感海底沉积物的工程力学性质等科学目的提供理论依据.     

Beamforming on seismic interface waves with an array of geophoneson the shallow sea floor

The problem of locating very low frequency sound sources in shallow water is made difficult by the interaction of propagating acoustic waves with the sea floor. Slow wave speeds and the attendant short wavelengths suggest that low frequency beamforming and source localization with sea floor geophones can be accomplished with relatively small arrays when compared with hydrophone arrays in the water column. To test the feasibility of this approach, experiments were carried out in the shallow water of the Malta Channel of the Straits of Sicily where the Scholte wave speed was some 10 to 20 times slower that the speed of sound in water. A linear array of ten vertically gimballed geophones was deployed and measurements were made on propagating seismic wave fields generated by explosive shots. The resulting directivities, beam patterns, and sidelobe characteristics are in excellent agreement with array theory, which suggests that coherent processing is a viable technique on which to base new applications for seismic arrays on the sea floor. Supporting materials on the geophysics of Scholte waves and calculations of the wave field at the site are presented     

海底表层沉积物声速特性研究进展与探讨

海底表层沉积物具有多相、多颗粒、多形态的组成结构,导致其声学特性复杂多样。通过分析压缩波速度和切变波速度特性的研究现状,指出有待于解决的科学问题和关键技术问题。在分析国内外有关海底沉积层声速特性研究基础上,提出采取系统、可控的实验测量手段解决当前测量存在的4点问题。综合分析了压缩波速度和切变波速度存在的统计回归关系和理论分析关系,探讨了当前地声反演、采样样品声学测量、原位声学测量3种方法存在的测量尺度、测量频率、测量状态等的差异,探讨建立不同测量方法和测量技术对测量结果进行统一性解释的方法,从而获得不同类型、不同区域的海底表层沉积物真实的声速特性。最后,从实验室声学测量、物理力学参数测量、流固耦合特性分析、原位测量及海底监测、采样测量与原位测量的误差分析及校正、海底大纵深声学测量6个方面提出技术需求,为提高声学探测海洋和海底的精度服务,推动海洋声学探测和海洋工程发展。     

An experimental investigation of the velocity field under cnoidal waves over the asymmetric rippled bed

1 IntroductionIn coastal areas a ubiquitous phenomenon is theformation of ripples in the seabed. It is now widelyaccepted that the flow and sediment transport overseabed are vital in relation to erosion, surface wavedissipation and pollution dispersion et…     

Diffraction of Water Waves by A Vertically Floating Cylinder in A Two-Layer Fluid

In this paper, the diffraction of water waves by a vertically floating cylinder in a two-layer fluid of a finite depth is studied. Analytical expressions for the hydrodynamic loads on the vertically floating cylinder are obtained by use of the method of eigenfunction expansions. The hydrodynamic loads on the vertically floating cylinder in a two-layer fluid inelude not only the surge, heave and pitch exciting forces due to the incident wave of the surface-wave mode, but also those due to the incident wave of the internal-wave mode. This is different from the case of a homogenous fluid. Some given examples show that, for a two-layer fluid system with a small density difference, the hydrodynamic loads for the surface-wave mode do not differ significantly from those due to surface waves in a single-layer fluid, but the hydrodynamic loads for the internal-wave mode are important over a wide range of frequencies. Moreover, also considered are the free surface and interface elevations generated by the diffraction wave due to the incident wave of the surface-wave and interhal-wave modes, and transfer of energy between modes.     

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves I. Individual wave spectra and similarity structure

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves have been studied by use of a wind-wave tunnel. The individual waves are defined by actual undulations of the water surface at any instant, and are characterized by concentrated shearing stress and strong vorticity at their crests. A conspicuous self-similarity structure is found in the individual wave field. The similarity manifests itself as a simple spectral form, and as the statistical 3/2-power law between nondimensional wave height and wave period, and further as the -1/2-power relationship between nondimensional phase speed and frequency, for waves of the high frequency side. The normalized energy spectrum, specially defined for individual waves, has a form practically equivalent to the traditional spectrum for component waves in the main frequency range from 0.7 to 1.5 in the frequency normalized by the peak frequency, but does not have secondary peaks at harmonics. The phase speed of individual waves also coincides with that of component waves in the main frequency range.     

On the possibilities of radar probing of eutrophication zones in water reservoirs

Complex experimental studies of the influence exerted by phytoplankton on microwave backscattering from the water surface are carried out. Quantitative data on the concentration and group composition of the phytoplankton in the Gorky Reservoir during its eutrophication are obtained. It is established that the velocity of damping of gravity-capillary waves increases as the phytoplankton concentration increases, in which case the rise in the coefficient of damping of gravity-capillary waves is caused by an increase in both the effective viscosity of water and the value of elasticity of surface films related to the phytoplankton. It is established that, under the same weather conditions, the intensity of a radar signal decreases in the areas where the phytoplankton concentration is high. The results of model calculations of contrasts in the spectrum of wind gravity-capillary waves and the intensity of a radar signal are presented with respect to the phytoplankton concentration using the reconstructed values of the effective viscosity of water and the elasticity of films in the eutrophication zones, which describe the observational data satisfactorily.     

Methods to Improve the Long Distance Time-Varying Channel Transmission Performance of Expendable Profiler

To improve the transmission performance of XCTD channel, this paper proposes a method to measure directly and fit the channel transmission characteristics by using frequency sweeping method. Sinusoidal signals with a frequency range of 100 Hz to 10 k Hz and an interval of 100 Hz are used to measure transmission characteristics of channels with lengths of 300 m, 800 m, 1300 m, and 1800 m. The correctness of the fitted channel characteristics by transmitting square wave, composite waves of different frequencies, and ASK modulation are verified. The results show that when the frequency of the signal is below 1500 Hz, the channel has very little effect on the signal. The signal compensated for amplitude and phase at the receiver is not as good as the uncompensated signal.Alternatively, when the signal frequency is above 1500 Hz, the channel distorts the signal. The quality of signal compensated for amplitude and phase at receiver is better than that of the uncompensated signal. Thus, we can select the appropriate frequency for XCTD system and the appropriate way to process the received signals. Signals below1500 Hz can be directly used at the receiving end. Signals above 1500 Hz are used after amplitude and phase compensation at the receiving end.     

Spectral spreading from surface bubble motion

At low frequencies, surface bubbles contribute to acoustic backscattering in aggregate, and the motion of these bubble masses causes spectral spreading of the acoustic signals. This motion of the bubbles entrained in the surface waves is used to obtain the power spectrum of a low-frequency surface-scattered signal at a low grazing angle. A spectral distribution of the deterministic surface drift, augmented by breaking wave crests, is developed for the wave frequency components that are actively breaking. This motion is combined with the random motion in a wave cycle to predict the spectral widths of low-angle backscattered sound. To permit comparisons with measured data, convolutions of these spectra with simple square pulses of various durations are performed     

Time series surface-wave recovery from pressure gage

Recovery of surface-wave time series from pressure gage data is a time-consuming process and is not customarily carried out. Such information is, however, useful particularly in real-time for warning of freak waves or waves of unusual characteristics. Two simple numerical filters are developed here to serve such purpose. The first method is a linear filter with a built-in window to suppress high-frequency noise. The second method recovers the surface wave by computing the local surface curvature. These filters are very simple and can be programmed into a microprocessor to be integrated into field instrument packages.Both filters have been tested satisfactorily against conventional linear filters using simulated wave data and wave data collected in intermediate water depth. Neither filter requires pre-filtering of noise from raw data, which is commonly required to recover surface-wave information from sub-surface pressure data.     

内波对多波束测深影响仿真研究

为了研究内波对多波束测深的影响,通过对内波建模,分别对四个区间的声线跟踪情况进行了研究分析。在此基础上,推导了针对曲线型梯度结构的声线跟踪模型,并根据该模型进行了仿真分析。仿真简单模拟了采用常梯度声线跟踪模型对曲线型梯度结构声速剖面进行声速改正的声线跟踪过程。采用仿真数据绘制了声线跟踪前后的声线示意图,并对归算前后的波束脚印位置进行了比较分析。仿真结果说明内波会给多波束的边缘波束带来大量尖峰状的浅点,而这些浅点难以用传统的声速改正模型消除。推导的针对曲线型梯度结构的声线跟踪模型可为内波的进一步研究提供理论依据,最后对未来的研究进行了展望。     

Deterministic three-dimensional analysis of long-range soundpropagation through internal-wave fields

A Munk profile and a set of propagating internal-wave modes are used to construct a three-dimensional time-varying ocean sound-speed model. Three-dimensional ray tracing is employed to simulate long-range sound propagation of a broadband acoustic signal. Methods are developed to convert three-dimensional ray-tracing results to acoustic time-domain amplitude and phase measurements. The ocean sound-speed model is defined deterministically, and the model acoustic receptions are analyzed deterministically. A single internal-wave mode that is “spatially synchronizes” to an arrival can coherently focus and defocus the acoustic energy. These internal waves can cause an arrival's amplitude fluctuation to mimic Rayleigh fading; however, the time-domain phase is stable, in contradiction to the classical Rayleigh fading environment where the received phase is uniformly distributed. For example, the received power attributed to an early arrival propagated over a 750-km range can fluctuate over 40 dB, while the time-domain phase remains within a quarter of a 75 Hz cycle. The characteristics of the time-domain phase are important for establishing coherent integration times at the receiver     

Application of a Boussinesq model for the computation of breaking waves: Part 2: Wave-induced setdown and setup on a submerged coral reef

Based on a set of Boussinesq-type equations with improved linear frequency dispersion characteristics in deeper water, the present paper incorporates the simplified effect of spilling wave breaking into the equations. The analysis is restricted to a single horizontal dimension but the method can be extended to include the second horizontal dimension. Inside the surf zone the vertical variation of the horizontal velocity profile is assumed to be composed of an (initially unknown) organised velocity component below the roller and a surface roller travelling with the wave celerity. This leads to a new set of equations which is capable of simulating the transformation of waves before, during and after wave breaking. The model is calibrated and verified by comparison with several wave flume measurements. The results show that the model produces sound physical results.     

Effects of three-wave interactions in the gravity-capillary range of wind waves

The formation of the spectrum of short wind waves from the gravity-capillary and capillary ranges under the effect of three-wave interactions is considered. In order to determine the spectrum, the kinetic equation for wave packets is integrated to the point where the solution is established. Three-wave interactions are described by a collision integral without introducing any additional assumptions simplifying the problem. This calculation procedure reproduces the Zakharov-Filonenko theoretical spectra, which correspond to the cases of energy equipartition and the inertial range. It is shown that the main role of three-wave interactions lies in the energy transfer from the range of short gravity waves to waves with shorter wavelengths. This transfer is accomplished both locally in the Fourier space and as a result of interactions between short and long waves. Its characteristic features are the formation of a dip on the curvature spectrum in the region of a minimum phase velocity of waves and the formation of a secondary peak in the capillary range. The dip is filled and disappears as the wind speed increases. Taking into account the interaction between short and long waves increases the spectrum in the capillary range several times, and the balance between energy input from long waves and viscous dissipation is established in the capillary range. The energy sink caused by three-wave interactions, viscous dissipation, and wind forcing cannot give the stability of the spectrum of short gravity waves.     

Wave particle velocities measured with a Doppler current meter

A newly developed three-dimensional Doppler current meter is described and the results of preliminary field experiments are presented where simultaneous measurements of surface elevation and water velocity associated with wave orbital motion were made. The phase difference between the surface elevation and the vertical velocity measured at 1.0 and 0.45 meters below the mean water level is found to be approximately 90, in accord with the theory for surface waves of infinitesimally small amplitudes. The spectral (frequency) density distribution for velocity is also found to agree with that we would expect from the linear theory for the observed frequency distribution of surface elevation. However, the amplitude of velocity is consistently smaller (about 10 %) than that we would expect. This reduction of amplitude is more pronounced in cases where waves are high and the water depth is shallow.     

孤立内波对过渡海域声场干涉结构的影响分析

南海北部陆坡海域是孤立内波的活跃区,孤立内波在该海域能够引起水体环境较强烈的水平不均匀性,从而影响声场干涉结构。将描述宽带声信号强度干涉条纹斜率的波导不变量视为一种分布,能更准确地分析声场的距离*频率干涉结构。本文研究了孤立内波环境下过渡海域声场的距离*频率干涉结构,依据实测孤立内波海洋环境,得到孤立内波环境下随距离变化的声速剖面,利用抛物方程方法仿真过渡海域声场干涉结构。在此基础上,利用拉东变换和傅里叶变换结合的谱值分离方法在低信噪比环境下提取波导不变量分布。分析表明孤立内波环境下过渡海域的声场类影区、类会聚区的波导不变量取值更丰富。