南麂海域风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄统计分布

利用南麂海洋站１９８１－１９９０年实测波浪资料，探讨了该海域风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄的统计分布特征。分析结果：当风浪平均波陡介于０．０２－０．０４时，其出现频率各季在８２％以上；当风浪平均波龄介于０．５－１．２时，其出现频率各季在７８％以上；当风浪的平均波陡与平均波龄介于０．０２－０．０４和０．５－１．０时，其出现频率为５３．５％－６９．６％。     

南海海表风速、波高的变化趋势

文章以ERA-40资料为基础,利用EOF方法分析南海海面风速、波高的两个模态空间分布,系统计算1957—2002年南海海表风速、波高的空间分布特征、长期变化趋势和突变现象。分析结果显示,南海海面风、浪场的第一模态具有很好的相似性,第二模态已表现出不同的特征;第一模态的时间系数也表明风场和波高的变化特征具有明显的正相关性,而且波高的响应具有一定的滞后性;南海风速场和海浪场在1973—2002年都存在下降趋势,海浪场的下降趋势更为显著。     

近岸浅水波的计算

采用理论推导与实验资料验证相结合的方法对近岸浅水波衰减计算进行研究。研究表明，波浪与浅水区运动传播衰减是各种能耗共同作用的结果，为此总结了分子粘性能耗、湍流能耗、底部渗透能耗、底部摩擦能耗、软泥海底弹性能耗等，由建立波能流平衡方程出发进行理论推导，得出各种能耗影响下波浪衰减的计算公式，并将该理论公式与作者１９８０年波浪水槽试验资料比较，两者基本吻合，可适用于线性及非线性各种波能耗情况的计算。     

风浪统计性质的实验研究──Ⅰ.波高与周期的统计分布

本文为风浪统计性质实验研究的第一部分.利用现代化的大型水槽,设计并进行不同坡度水底上的多种风浪实验,依据实验获得的大量实测资料,重点讨论了在不同实验条件下波高与周期的统计规律;并通过与理论结果的比较,得到了若干重要的结论.     

风浪波高和周期的联合概率密度分布

本文采用有代表性的44008美国国家浮标站2003年1～3月实测的海浪谱密度资料,选取三次大风过程进行风浪谱分析。通过对实测平均海浪谱与PM谱、JONSWAP谱及Torsethaugen谱的比较,得到PM谱拟和最好。然后用国际上最先进的随机波分析方法,根据协方差矩阵的循环嵌套技术,以实测平均谱与PM谱为靶谱,对随机波面进行模拟。得到由模拟波面统计的特征值及估计的谱与实测谱结果极为相近,谱峰及谱峰频率都基本一致。说明利用模拟波面研究海浪具有代表性,它可以反映实测海浪的特征。利用Longuet-Higgins(1983)模型计算波高-周期联合概率密度分布,得到变换高斯过程计算的波高、周期联合分布与实测情况基本相同,更好地描述了波高-周期联合概率密度分布。     

规则波和不规则波作用下消波建筑物前的波高分析

消波建筑物在国内外已得到广泛应用。本文采用近似方法分析了明基床上直立式消波建筑物前的波高及消波室内的波高，从而确定建筑物的消波效果。并在规则波的基础上将成果推广至不规则波作用下的情况。     

应用特征波预报公式进行台风浪计算的一个根本缺陷

Wilson方法和井岛方法均是移动风区上著名的波浪推算方法,被广泛应用于台风波浪的推算和预报上。本文通过分析指出:使用上述方法以海洋工程界所推行的风浪预报公式作台风浪推算时,所得特征波波陡将与台风浪实测波陡分布定性不符,并指出产生这种缺陷的原因。     

深水风浪破碎发生率与风速和风区的关系

根据于渤海中部采油平台测得的数据，结合实验室的测量，提出一种深水风浪破碎发生率与风速和风区关系的经验公式，与现已发表的少量海上测量结果相比较，此式符合良好。利用此式较好地解释了风浪破碎起始风速问题。     

高风速作用下波龄与波陡的关系

利用wAVEwATCH-Ⅲ模式对台风玲玲、天鹅和达维期间南海海域风浪场进行了数值计算,利用最小二乘法对计算结果进行统计、分析,得出高风速作用下波高与周期的关系以及波龄与波陡的关系。     

The long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and the wave height (wind wave, swell, mixed wave)in global ocean during the last 44 a

Utilizing the 45 a European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF)reanalysis wave data(ERA-40),the long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and(wind wave,swell,mixed wave)wave height in the global ocean at grid point 1.5×1.5 during the last 44 a is analyzed.It is discovered that a majority of global ocean swell wave height exhibits a significant linear increasing trend(2–8 cm/decade),the distribution of annual linear trend of the significant wave height(SWH)has good consistency with that of the swell wave height.The sea surface wind speed shows an annually linear increasing trend mainly concentrated in the most waters of Southern Hemisphere westerlies,high latitude of the North Pacific,Indian Ocean north of 30 S,the waters near the western equatorial Pacific and low latitudes of the Atlantic waters,and the annually linear decreasing mainly in central and eastern equator of the Pacific,Juan.Fernandez Archipelago,the waters near South Georgia Island in the Atlantic waters.The linear variational distribution characteristic of the wind wave height is similar to that of the sea surface wind speed.Another find is that the swell is dominant in the mixed wave,the swell index in the central ocean is generally greater than that in the offshore,and the swell index in the eastern ocean coast is greater than that in the western ocean inshore,and in year-round hemisphere westerlies the swell index is relatively low.     

Estimation of wind speed and wave height during cyclones

Wave and wind characteristics based on the cyclones, in the vicinity of the Nagapattinam coastline (east coast of India) were estimated. In all, 11 cyclones have crossed near the study region during 1960–1996. For the four severe cyclones, the isobaric charts were collected at three hourly intervals from the India Meteorological Department. The storm variables such as central pressure, radius of maximum wind, speed of forward motion and direction of storm movement were extracted and the method based on standard Hydromet pressure profile, were used for the hindcast of storm wind fields. For all the cyclones the maximum significant wave height within the storm and its associated spectral peak period was estimated using the Young’s model considering the moving wind field and the results are compared with the hurricane wave prediction techniques provided in the shore protection manual published by the US Army Corps of Engineers in 1984. The study shows that the estimated wind speed and the data reported by ships were comparable. Empirical expressions relating wind speed, wave height and wave period to storm parameters were derived. The design wave height for different return periods was obtained by fitting a two-parameter Weibull distribution to the estimated significant wave heights. The design wave height was 9.39 m for 1 in 100 year return period for a direct hit of cyclone.     

中国海域有效波高、海表风速长期变化趋势的季节特征

Long-term variations in a sea surface wind speed(WS) and a significant wave height(SWH) are associated with the global climate change, the prevention and mitigation of natural disasters, and an ocean resource exploitation,and other activities. The seasonal characteristics of the long-term trends in China's seas WS and SWH are determined based on 24 a(1988–2011) cross-calibrated, multi-platform(CCMP) wind data and 24 a hindcast wave data obtained with the WAVEWATCH-III(WW3) wave model forced by CCMP wind data. The results show the following.(1) For the past 24 a, the China's WS and SWH exhibit a significant increasing trend as a whole, of3.38 cm/(s·a) in the WS, 1.3 cm/a in the SWH.(2) As a whole, the increasing trend of the China's seas WS and SWH is strongest in March-April-May(MAM) and December-January-February(DJF), followed by June-July-August(JJA), and smallest in September-October-November(SON).(3) The areal extent of significant increases in the WS was largest in MAM, while the area decreased in JJA and DJF; the smallest area was apparent in SON. In contrast to the WS, almost all of China's seas exhibited a significant increase in SWH in MAM and DJF; the range was slightly smaller in JJA and SON. The WS and SWH in the Bohai Sea, the Yellow Sea, East China Sea, the Tsushima Strait, the Taiwan Strait, the northern South China Sea, the Beibu Gulf, and the Gulf of Thailand exhibited a significant increase in all seasons.(4) The variations in China's seas SWH and WS depended on the season. The areas with a strong increase usually appeared in DJF.     

The comparison of altimeter retrieval algorithms of the wind speed and the wave period

With the launch of altimeter,much effort has been made to develop algorithms on the wind speed and the wave period.By using a large data set of collocated altimeter and buoy measurements,the typical wind speed and wave period algorithms are validated.Based on theoretical argument and the concept of wave age,a semi-empirical algorithm for the wave period is also proposed,which has the wave-period dimension,and explicitly demonstrates the relationships between the wave period and the other variables.It is found that Ku and C band data should be applied simultaneously in order to improve either wind speed or wave period algorithms.The dual-band algorithms proposed by Chen et al.(2002) for the wind speed and Quilfen et al.(2004) for the wave period perform best in terms of a root mean square error in the practical applications.     

1979—2018年长江口及邻近海域风速和波高的分布特征与变化趋势

本文基于欧洲中期天气预报中心 （ECMWF） 的 ERA5 与 ERA-Interim 再分析资料,提取长江口及其邻近海域1979— 2018 年间共 40 年的风场和海浪场数据,探讨该海域风浪和波高的时空变化特征,EOF 经验正交函数分解法分析结果显示风速与波高的数值在外海普遍高于近岸,且符合长江口所在东海海域受盛行东亚季风影响的特征。Mann-Kendall 检验法分析结果显示,在 1979—2018 年间该海域海表面年均风速呈增长趋势,平均增长速率为 0.228 cm/（s·a）,累计增长 1.6 %;年均有效波高呈增长趋势,平均增长速率为 0.120 cm/a,累计增长 5.4 %;年风速和波高的极端值也呈不同程度的增长趋势。     

Determination of wave energy dissipation factor and numerical simulation of wave height in the surf zone

Based on the time-dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation. The wave height of regular and irregular waves is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation considering the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. Comparison of numerical results with experimental data shows that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable. The effects of the wave breaking coefficient on the breaking point and the distribution of wave height after breaking are discussed through the study of a specific experimental topography.     

Temporal significant wave height estimation from wind speed by perceptron Kalman filtering

Significant wave height estimates are necessary for many applications in coastal and offshore engineering and therefore various estimation models are proposed in the literature for this purpose. Unfortunately, most of these models provide simultaneous wave height estimations from wind speed measurements. However, in practical studies, the prediction of significant wave height is necessary from previous time interval measurements. This paper presents a dynamic significant wave height prediction procedure based on the perceptron Kalman filtering concepts. Past measurements of significant wave height and wind speed variables are used for training the adaptive model and it is then employed to predict the significant wave height amounts for future time intervals from the wind speed measurements only. The verification of the proposed model is achieved through the dynamic significant wave height and wind speed time series plots, observed versus predicted values scatter diagram and the classical linear significant wave height models. The application of the proposed model is presented for a station in USA.     

北极海域海面风场和海浪遥感观测能力分析

卫星遥感是开展北极海域海面风场和海浪分布特征与变化规律研究的重要手段。本文基于在轨多源卫星遥感数据,从遥感观测空间覆盖、时间覆盖和多源卫星遥感数据融合等方面开展北极海域海面风场与海浪遥感观测能力分析,研究主要结果为:基于ASCAT和HY-2A散射计可实现北极海域海面风场遥感观测,通过多星联合观测可获取北极海域时空分辨率优于12 h和0.1°的海面风场遥感融合数据;基于HY-2A、CryoSat-2、SARAL和Sentinel-3高度计可实现北极海域海浪遥感观测,同样通过多星联合观测可获取北极海域时空分辨率优于1 d和0.25°的海浪有效波高遥感融合数据;基于2016年北极海面风场和海浪遥感融合数据,分析得出北极海域海面风场和海浪在2月处于极大值,然后逐渐减小,7月最小,随后开始逐渐增大。本研究表明,基于多源散射计和高度计遥感观测可实现北极海域海面风场和海浪的高时空分辨率遥感业务化监测。     

风场对SWAN模式在台湾海峡后报结果的影响

本文利用SWAN模式模拟分析了CCMP和DASCAT两种常用风场数据在台湾海峡海面的浪场结果。东北季风期3个月的浪场模拟结果与浮标实测波高时序数据相比,偏差均值不大于0.33 m,偏差均方根不大于0.59 m。一般在浮标波高大于3.5 m和小于1.0 m时,偏差偏大。6 h分辨率的风场数据相较于24 h分辨率风场数据对应的模拟结果更接近于浮标实测结果。在6 h和24 h分辨率的CCMP风场数据和24 h分辨率的DASCAT风场数据的模拟结果中,两两结果间的空间相关系数均不低于0.90,偏差均值不大于0.32 m,偏差均方根不大于0.4 m。     

南麂海域大浪与大风的分布关系

本文根据南麂海洋站１９８３～１９８９年实测风和浪的资料，分析了大风和大浪的关系。结果表明：大浪日、大风日各月出现次数不匀。风浪大浪日及涌浪大浪日出现比率分别占５６％和４４％。各向大浪波高均值变化幅度不大。各向大浪波高极值却有较大差异。风浪Ｈ１／１０波高为１．５～２．０ｍ、当风速为１１～１３ｍ／ｓ时，大浪出现频率最高。本文还给出了波龄较大的风浪大浪波高与大风风速的经验关系。基于不同类型的台风路径，得到了本区从Ｈ１／１０波高为１．５ｍ以上时台风中心的位置。利用此结果可以预报本区大浪出现的时间。