Breaking wave forces and velocity fields

A new technique for measuring velocities under breaking wave crests using laser-doppler anemometry has been developed. Results may be obtained at positions up to 4 millimeters from the crest.A wave field is presented for a vertically fronted wave and comparison is made with an appropriate numerical study. The velocities obtained are far in excess of the predictions of linear theory.Measurements have also been made of the forces produced by this wave on a horizontal cylinder. Comparisons with large regular waves indicate that forces due to breaking waves can be up to five times greater for similar wave heights.     

The statistical distribution of nearbed wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth

The statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth has been quantitatively determined from the comprehensive field velocity data collected near the seabed in this study. Two ocean ADV current meters, which were mounted at 0.5 m above the seabed on two separate stainless steel tripods sitting on the seabed, were used to measure instantaneous water particle velocities at a 2 Hz sampling rate for 17.07 min every hour in two coastal water depths of 11 m and 23 m in nine field deployments over a period of 2 years. The zero-crossing method is applied to analyse the field velocity data collected in each field deployment to obtain a large sample of wave orbital velocity amplitudes of individual waves. Based on the collected field velocity data, it is found that the histogram of instantaneous wave orbital velocities perfectly follows the Gaussian distribution as commonly assumed, while the histogram of wave orbital velocity amplitudes is less accurately described by the Rayleigh distribution than the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. It is also found that large orbital velocity amplitudes are generally overestimated by the Rayleigh distribution, but well predicted by the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. The expected value of maximum orbital velocity in a velocity record of finite size is also derived from the three distributions and found to agree well with the present field data.     

Wave orbital velocity, fade, and SAR response to azimuth waves

Orbital motion of azimuth waves imposes differential Doppler shifts on wave imagery as seen by a SAR. This paper shows that these Doppler shifts are a function only of the wave and sensor geometry, and are not a function of SAR parameters. The azimuth wave reflectivity so modulated is equivalent to a redistributed scatterer density which can be used as an input with the SAR modulation transfer function for general distributed scenes to derive the azimuth wave image. The static scatterer density is calculated for a variety of sea states. Wave accelerations are not of first-order importance. Scatterer fade (decorrelation) is of central importance, as it impacts the SAR transfer function that is effective in wave imaging.     

A practical surface panel method to predict velocity distribution around a three-dimensional hydrofoil including boundary layer effects

A practical, low order and potential-based surface panel method is presented to predict the flow around a three-dimensional rectangular foil section including the effect of boundary layer. The method is based on a boundary-integral formulation, known as the “Morino formulation” and the boundary layer effect is taken into account through a complementary thin boundary layer model. The numerical approach used in the method presents a strongly convergent solution based on the iterative wake roll-up and contraction model including the boundary layer effect. The method is applied to a three-dimensional foil section for which the velocity distribution around the foil was measured using a 2D Laser Doppler Velocimetry system in a large cavitation tunnel. Comparison of the predicted velocity distributions both inside and outside of the boundary layer of the foil as well as the boundary layer shapes obtained from the numerical model show fairly good correlation with the measurements, indicating the robustness and practical worthiness of the proposed method.     

基于图像测速的波浪破碎两相速度场测量方案探讨

针对波浪破碎试验中气泡区速度与水体速度无法同时测量的难题,基于实验室条件,搭建了粒子图像测速（PIV）和气泡图像测速（BIV）系统,采用声学多普勒测速仪（ADV）对PIV测量精度和不同场景下BIV测量精度进行了细致的验证,并设计多种试验方案以期实现BIV与PIV的同步耦合测量。试验结果表明,7W激光+后置灯的优化照明方案,其耦合测量的气泡区速度代表参数与标准BIV照明方案的结果误差小于5%,且耦合测量的气泡区下方水质点的速度曲线与标准PIV测量结果吻合,表明该改进方案满足PIV与BIV耦合测量的条件。本文实现的PIV与BIV耦合测量有利于优化测量和分析工作,减小破碎波浪重复生成的影响,有利于提高测量精度,为大范围波浪破碎速度场的快速测量提供了新的方案。     

The morphological response of a nearshore double sandbar system to constant wave forcing

Results of 2DH morphodynamic computations are presented to quantify the temporal evolution of the crescentic patterns emerging in a double nearshore bar system in response to constant wave boundary forcing. Sixteen different conditions varying both offshore wave height and angle of wave incidence were applied. The mean length scales of the emerging irregular crescentic patterns are linearly proportional to the local longshore velocity over the inner and outer bars. For similar longshore velocities, the length scales of the outer bar are larger than of the inner bar. This is explained by accounting for the difference in water depth above the bar crest. The variable morphological response times can be explained by including additional bathymetrical parameters. The active volume of the bar, defined by the breaker index, plays an important role in this response time. With larger active volumes the bar responds more rapidly to identical boundary conditions. Also, bars with a smaller total volume respond more quickly. This faster response is due to the steeper active volume of the bars. Different initial perturbations resulted in different locations of the emerging features, showing that their location is sensitive to the initial bathymetry. However, the range in length scales and response times due to the different perturbations was significantly smaller than those obtained for the different hydrodynamic conditions. Based on the present findings we hypothesize that morphological length scales in the field are rarely in equilibrium with the concurrent offshore wave height and angle of incidence owing to the slow response of the sandbars under constant conditions relative to the stochastic nature of natural wave forcing.     

An experimental method to identify a component of wave orbital motion in propeller effective inflow velocity and its effects on load fluctuations of a ship main engine in waves

Improvements of estimation accuracy on propeller torque fluctuations in waves will contribute assessments on safe operation of a ship main engine as in adverse sea condition. The propeller torque and thrust in waves can be estimated by propeller effective inflow velocity in waves, using the propeller open-water characteristics. Fluctuation components in the mathematical model of the propeller effective inflow velocity in waves can be composed of two components, respectively caused by ship surge motion and wave orbital motion at propeller position. In this study, an experimental method by the model test to directly identify the characteristics of the component by the wave orbital motion is newly proposed. Furthermore, the free-running model test in regular waves, using a simulator of the marine diesel engine which manages the shaft speed of the motor on a ship model as behaving the actual diesel engine, is carried out to obtain realistic torque fluctuations for comparisons of the estimated results applying the proposed identification method. Through comparisons of estimated fluctuations with the measured results, the proposed approach for the component of the inflow velocity due to wave orbital motion is successfully validated.     

A model for the response of wave directions in slowly turning wind fields

On the basis of the wave energy balance equation, the response model of mean directions of locally wind-generated waves in slowly turning wind fields has been derived. The results show that in a homogeneous field, the time scale of the response is not only related to the rate of wave growth, but also to the directional energy distribution and the angle between the wind direction and the mean wave direction. Furthermore, the law of change in the mean wave direction has been derived. The numerical computations show that the response of wave directions to slowly turning wind directions can be treated as the superposition of the responses of wave directions to a series of sudden small-angle changes of wind directions and the turning rate of the mean wave direction depends on the turning rate and the total turning angles of the wind direction. The response of wave directions is in agreement with the response for a sudden change of wind directions if the change in wind directions is very fast. Based on the no     

非线性波消波及波场分布研究

本文基于雷诺平均N-S方程,并结合RNG k-e方程建立了粘性数值波浪水槽,对不同波陡、不同相对水深、不同相对波高的非线性规则波的阻尼消波问题和波场分布进行研究。文中提出了两种描述消波区内部阻尼变化的阻尼函数,分别适用于小波陡情形和高波陡情形。研究结果表明,小波陡组消波区可设为一个波长,阻尼系数取10~4～10~5即可满足消波要求,计算结果与实验结果及造波理论吻合良好;高波陡组消波区可设为两个波长,阻尼系数取10~4～10~5亦可满足消波要求,计算结果与实验结果吻合良好。此外,当波陡较小时,波场内反射情况的小幅改变即可对整个波场造成影响,特别是当水深较浅时这种影响极为明显,需谨慎考虑。当波陡较大时,水波能量较高,整个波场沿水波传播方向可观测到明显的衰减现象,在具体试验中需进行考虑。     

半潮堤前的反射形态与时均流速场分析

采用模型试验和数值模拟研究了不同水深工况下半潮堤前的反射形态及时均流速场。基于Hilbert变换建立了叠合波的时频分离技术,同时获取了入射波和反射波的波面过程及相位关系,通过试验数据证明其适用于不同反射程度的波浪信号分析。不同水深工况下,半潮堤前形成了部分立波系统,腹点和节点分别以四分之一波长的偶数倍和奇数倍交替增加。半潮堤前底床水质点水平速度包络图与波面包络图相差四分之一周期的相位,水平速度的极大值和极小值分别出现在波面包络图的节点和腹点,意味着节点处易形成冲刷,腹点处易形成淤积。3种工况的周期平均速度场均在迎浪基床上方的堤脚处存在一个小型环流系统,可能引起局部冲刷,此处需加强防护。淹没工况下,半潮堤前的周期平均速度场形成一个大型环流系统,表层水流向堤后,中下层水流向海侧,意味着底床悬起的泥沙很可能向离岸方向流失。     

基于GPS单点测速的海浪测量方法初探

首先分析比对了已有的测波方法,阐述了将GPS单点测速应用到测波中的优点.然后讨论了基于多普勒频移的测速方法,并分析了各类误差对测速精度的影响.最后利用静态数据进行动态测速模拟试验和实测动态数据测速与RTK (Real Time Kinematic,实时动态测量系统)位置差分测速进行—致性检验.结果表明,使用静态数据采用...     

Analysis of a jet-controlled high-lift hydrofoil with a flap

A jet-controlled high-lift hydrofoil with a flap is investigated using both experimental and computational methods. Experiments were carried out in a cavitation tunnel to measure forces and moment acting on the hydrofoil, and surface pressure distribution. The measured data show the feasibility of such a device for marine applications. Computational studies have also been carried out in parallel with the measurements. The computational results are analyzed in terms of global and local quantities using available experimental data. The present computational results compare well with the well-known experimental data for circulation control flows. The results for flow around a hydrofoil with a blown flap further validate the concept behind the proposed device. The results of the study demonstrate the applicability of the technology to the design of practical control surfaces.     

Theoretical and experimental investigation of a vertical wall response to wave impact

The laboratory and field experiments so far have shown that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, the resulting impact pressures may become very severe in magnitude and short in duration. Some experimental evidence in the literature suggests that the structural response to the extremely high magnitude impact forces is only limited. This study is mainly concerned with the comparison of the theoretical and experimental results of a vertical wall response under the wave impact loading. In the dynamic analysis of the wall the classical elastic plate theory is used and the numerical results for the dynamic values of the transverse displacement are obtained by employing the method of finite elements. In the theoretical analyses the experimental pressure histories are used and the theoretical wall deflection histories are compared with the experimental results. The computational and experimental deflection histories exhibit similar patterns. The theoretical maximum wall deflections are mostly found to be slightly smaller than the experimental values.     

An experimental investigation of a vertical wall response to breaking wave impact

Laboratory experiments are conducted to measure the impact pressures and resulting deflections from breaking oscillatory waves on a vertical wall with 1/10 foreshore slope. The maximum impact pressure data on the wall are statistically analysed and the relationships between the magnitudes of impact pressures and forces, and their durations, are investigated. The maximum impact pressures, among the 90 wave impacts, are found to vary between 1.37 × 10⁴and 28.3 × 10⁴Pa. The maximum impact pressures are shown to reasonably satisfy the log-normal probability distribution and they occur most frequently slightly below the still-water level. The greatest wall deflection at the point of measurement is caused by an impact which has a maximum pressure of 3.6 × 10⁴Pa, corresponding to 50% probability in the log-normal distribution. It is found that the longer-lasting low impact forces are more effective in producing the larger wall deflections. In this respect, the maximum impact pressures in the range between 2.5 × 10⁴and 5 × 10⁴Pa obtained in this study are found to be the most effective. The upper limit of this range (when non-dimensionalised by the specific weight of water and deep-water wave steepness) is suggested as a design value for vertical walls.     

Tone generation on a hydrofoil of a high-speed ship

Experimental results of hydrofoil singing on a full-scale passenger ship are reported. It is proposed that hydrodynamic generation of a tone is caused by self-excited oscillation of a foil trailing edge. The natural frequency of the vibrating structure as well as the frequency of the external force are estimated. A lift-oscillator model is applied for modeling purposes. One effective method of eliminating the hydrofoil singing is discussed.     

Hydrodynamics of a submerged hydrofoil advancing in waves

The hydrodynamic problem of a hydrofoil travelling at constant speed in water waves has been investigated through velocity potential theory. The boundary conditions on the free surface have been linearized, and the effects are accounted for through the Green function. The overall problem is decomposed into the steady forward speed problem and periodic wave radiation and diffraction problems. Each of these problems is solved using the boundary integral equation over the hydrofoil surface together with a vortex sheet behind the trailing edge. The body surface boundary condition is imposed on its mean position. As a result the steady potential will contribute a well-known m_j term to the body surface boundary condition on the radiation problem. The numerical difficulty in dealing with this term is effectively resolved through a difference method. The effects of the thickness on the wave radiation and diffraction are investigated. The applicability of various reciprocity relationships in this problem is discussed.     

基于地震速度构建的低频响应在波阻抗反演中的应用

以V工区北部为例,应用井数据、速度数据和地震属性共同恢复低频响应数据,同时使用层速度、层位信息（层的深度和厚度）以及反射振幅的信息进行反演,结果显示可以改善预测纵波阻抗的结果,同时与通常情况下的孔隙度预测作了对比,结果表明孔隙度预测的可信度得到了一定程度的改善。     

Wave forces on a single and on a group of cylinders in response to two wave spectra of same significant wave height

Spectral analysis is used to determine the wave force characteristics on structures exposed to random waves. Considerable work has been carried out to determine the magnitude of random wave forces acting on a single cylinder, but little information is available in the case of a group of cylinders in random waves. Such situations arise when structures comprise multiple tubular members which are in close proximity, and wave forces cannot be calculated precisely by analytical methods due to complicated flow conditions past the group. Experimental studies are also required for proper understanding and analysis. An experimental scheme was carried out to study the wave force characteristics on a single cylinder and on a group of cylinders in response to two different wave spectra with the same significant wave height, and the results are compared.     

Sensitivity of wave model predictions to wind fields in the Western Mediterranean sea

The paper compares the wave hindcast in the Western Mediterranean sea using the reanalysis wind fields from HIPOCAS and ERA-40 from ECMWF for November 2001. The study has concentrated on the Mediterranean coast of Spain where there are known difficulties with the wind and wave modelling. Two winter storms have been compared. The main differences between the significant wave heights using the ERA-40 reanalysis (ECMWF) and HIPOCAS reanalysis winds were observed to increase when moving southwards in the geographical domain at the offshore locations. Systematic negative biases of Hs were obtained with the ERA-40 data at all the coastal locations analyzed, whereas positive biases are typical for the HIPOCAS reanalysis. For offshore and coastal locations when using the ERA-40 data the Hs biases increased moving to South, while this pattern was not so clear for the HIPOCAS data. The inconsistencies in the comparisons of modelled waves against measurements seem to be associated with the quality of the wind fields.