Beach erosion under rising sea‐level modulated by coastal geomorphology and sediment availability on carbonate reef‐fringed island coasts

This study addresses gaps in understanding the relative roles of sea‐level change, coastal geomorphology and sediment availability in driving beach erosion at the scale of individual beaches. Patterns of historical shoreline change are examined for spatial relationships to geomorphology and for temporal relationships to late‐Holocene and modern sea‐level change. The study area shoreline on the north‐east coast of Oahu, Hawaii, is characterized by a series of kilometre‐long beaches with repeated headland‐embayed morphology fronted by a carbonate fringing reef. The beaches are the seaward edge of a carbonate sand‐rich coastal strand plain, a common morphological setting in tectonically stable tropical island coasts. Multiple lines of geological evidence indicate that the strand plain prograded atop a fringing reef platform during a period of late‐Holocene sea‐level fall. Analysis of historical shoreline changes indicates an overall trend of erosion (shoreline recession) along headland sections of beach and an overall trend of stable to accreting beaches along adjoining embayed sections. Eighty‐eight per cent of headland beaches eroded over the past century at an average rate of ?0·12 ± 0·03 m yr^?1. In contrast, 56% of embayed beaches accreted at an average rate of 0·04 ± 0·03 m yr^?1. Given over a century of global (and local) sea‐level rise, the data indicate that embayed beaches are showing remarkable resiliency. The pattern of headland beach erosion and stable to accreting embayments suggests a shift from accretion to erosion particular to the headland beaches with the initiation of modern sea‐level rise. These results emphasize the need to account for localized variations in beach erosion related to geomorphology and alongshore sediment transport in attempting to forecast future shoreline change under increasing sea‐level rise.     

Detecting temporal shoreline changes and erosion/accretion rates,using remote sensing,and their associated sediment characteristics along the coast of North Sinai,Egypt

The variation during 15 years in the shoreline along the North Sinai coast has been determined by analysing TM and ETM true colour Landsat images from 1986 to 2001. The analyses identified erosion and accretion patterns along the coast. The shoreline has advanced west of El Bardawil inlet1, El Bardawil inlet2, and El Arish Harbour, where the wave-induced littoral transport has been halted by jetty construction and beach growth rates are 20,681, 69,855 and 20,160 m²/year, respectively. On the downdrift side of the constructed jetties to the east, the shoreline is retreating and beaches erode at rates of −71,710, −69,968, and −11,760 m²/year, respectively. Sedimentological analyses of beach sediment samples have indicated selective transport of heavy minerals according to their densities and grain sizes. A general correspondence has been found between variation in grain size, sorting and heavy-mineral content of beach sand and the patterns of shoreline changes.     

Historical shoreline trend analysis and drivers of coastal change along the Ravenna coast,NE Adriatic

One of the most important aspects of coastal zone management is the analysis of shoreline dynamics. Over the last years, beaches of the Ravenna coast (NE Italy) experienced large modifications, in some places narrowing or even being completely lost, thus threatening tourism, coastal assets and nature. Coastal erosion has direct consequences for Ravenna tourist-based economy, which largely depends on the attraction provided by sandy beaches. In this study, long-term (>?50 years) coastal analysis was used to identify the sectors along the coast where the shoreline position has changed, either advancing or retreating. Shoreline changes were measured on GIS environment by means of Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) extension. Net Shoreline Movement (NSM) and Linear Regression Rate (LRR) strategies were employed to examine shoreline variability and reveal erosional/accretional trends. The results show that significant shoreline changes affected the entire coastal region, with most of the study area under retreat, mainly in the most valuable tourist assets of the littoral. The effects were found to be worsened by impacts of land subsidence, presence of harbor infrastructure and deficit in sediment budget. A simple shoreline classification was performed over the DSAS results and cross-checked with local knowledge of the area. The measurement of erosion or accretion rates in each studied segment is found to be useful for land use planning and coastal management plans, especially regarding the prediction of future shoreline positions. Especially important is the potential of the classification to identify areas of significant position change, with current and future implications for the design of sustainable shoreline management and mitigation measures.     

Effects of the Santa Cruz harbor on coastal processes of northern Monterey Bay,California

An average of 230,000 cubic meters of sand is provided to the beaches of northern Monterey Bay each year by littoral transport from upcoast and from local river input. Two jetties constructed as part of a small craft harbor interrupted the littoral flow of sand and significantly altered the area's natural coastal processes. A wide protective beach immediately formed upcoast against a formerly retreating beach cliff. Sand now filling the harbor mouth each winter has led to expensive yearly dredging as well as seasonally or permanently depleted downcoast beaches. Seacliff retreat, always a problem in the area, is caused primarily by surf attack of weaker stratigraphic units and erosion along joint sets and faults, causing collapse of the bluffs. The seasonal loss of protective beaches has led to a two- to three-fold increase in the rate of downcoast cliff retreat following harbor construction except where protective rip-rap has been emplaced by property owners.     

Statistical modeling of historic shore erosion rates on the Chesapeake Bay in Maryland

Few strong relationships exist along the Chesapeake Bay shoreline between the historic erosion rate and the distribution of any of several coastal parameters which were defined and tested using traditional regression and discriminant analysis procedures To develop a simple predictive equation for shore erosion that could be used by coastal managers, the entire Chesapeake Bay shoreline was partitioned into naturally occurring reaches 2–5 km in length, and the historic erosion rate on each reach was modelled as a function of five variables (a) shoreline type, (b) “100-year” storm surge height, (c) mean tide range, (d) wave climate, and (e) potential littoral drift rate The statistical analysis yielded a multiple correlation coefficient (r ²) of 30 8%, discriminant analysis showed only the first two variables listed above are useful predictors (i e, statistically significant) of historic erosion rates A 95-mile portion of the same bay shoreline in Queen Anne’s and Talbot counties was then partitioned into shorter reach lengths (1/2–2km) and more variables were included The multiple correlation coefficient (r ²) improved slightly to 32 9%, but only shoreline type and potential littoral drift rate were found to be useful predictors of historic erosion rates Curiously, the ability to model statistically the historic shore erosion rate is best on those reaches already substantially protected by structures For Queen Anne’s and Talbot counties, the multiple regression coefficient improved to 61 5% when only reaches 1/2–2km in length protected by structures were considered.     

Environmental impacts of El Arish power plant on the Mediterranean coast of Sinai, Egypt

A monitoring program was undertaken to evaluate the adverse impacts of the El Arish power plant on the northeastern Sinai coast of Egypt. This program spanned 28 months and includes intensive hydrographic surveying, measurements of waves, longshore current, littoral drift, currents behind the breaker zone, offshore currents, sea-level variation and water quality. The shoreline dynamics of the region have been substantially disrupted due to the high-intensity longshore transport and the interruption of longshore transport by the shore-perpendicular intake breakwaters. Maximum erosion of 5.5 m/year has been documented east of the breakwater. This erosion has been continuing eastwards, threatening the resort centers on the downcoast beaches. On the other hand, accretion (11.7 m/year) is recorded along the western side of the breakwater, accumulating great volumes of sand which is transported to the east by littoral currents. Part of this sand enters the intake basin, causing sedimentation problems by the easterly and westerly littoral drifts and cross-shore currents. In other respect, an unprotected offshore channel dredged in front of the water discharger, east of the intake, acts as an effective trap for the predominantly easterly sand drift, subsequently interrupting sediments moving from the east, accelerating processes of erosion to the east. The cooling and wastewater discharging from the discharger to the sea are insignificantly warmer than the upcoast water and not contaminated with chemical wastes. The thermal and chemical plume has no significant effect on the quality of the coastal water in the region.     

Coastal erosion in Shandong of China: status and protection challenges

Shandong has more than 70% of natural coasts are under erosion. Coastal erosion started from the 1970’s and became a very serious problem at 1990’s. The dramatic decrease of sediment supplies from rivers caused rapid erosion at the delta and estuary areas, especially in the abandoned Yellow River Delta. Most sandy coasts along the Peninsula were eroded due to lack of sand supply and interruption of alongshore sediment drift, sand dredging from the beach or the offshore area caused serious erosion during short time. Sea-level rise causes slow but constant shoreline retreats and became a more serious threat. Different types of hard solutions for coastal protection against erosion were used in Shandong. Seawalls are most widely used, especially at the Yellow River Delta and city center waterfront. Groynes, jetties and breakwater are used on the north and east sandy coast of the Peninsula. Hard approaches are effective to protect the coast erosion but not change the erosion causes and led secondary impact on the coast. Soft engineering solution or the combined solutions are taken into acts. Beach nourishment is mostly considered as the better soft solution, especially to those tourists attracting sandy beaches along the Shandong coast. Long term monitoring and continuous lessons learning from the coastal erosion management will be adaptive for better coast solution in the future.     

A sand budget for the Alexandria coastal dunefield, South Africa

The sand in the Alexandria coastal dunefield is derived from the sandy beach which forms the seaward boundary of the dunefield. Sand is blown off the beach onto the dunefield by the high-energy onshore-directed dominant wind. The dunefield has been forming over the past 6500 years. Sand transport rates calculated from dune movement rates and wind data range from 15 to 30 m³ m ^-1 yr^-1 in an ENE direction. The sand transport rate decreases with increasing distance from the sea due to a reduction in wind speed resulting from the higher drag imposed upon the wind by the land surface. Aeolian sand movement rates of this order are typical of dunefields around the world. The total volume of sand blown into the dunefield is 375 000 m³ yr^-1. Sand is being lost to the sea by wave erosion along the eastern third of the dunefield at a rate of 45 000 m³ yr ^-1. The dunefield thus gains 330 000 m³ of sand per year. This results in dunefield growth by vertical accretion at about 1.5 mm yr^-1 and landward movement at about 0.25 m yr^-1. The dunefield is a significant sand sink in the coastal sand transport system. The rate of deposition in coastal dunefields can be 10 times as high as rates of deposition in continental sand seas. The higher rate of deposition may result from the abundant sand supply on sandy beaches, and the higher energy of coastal winds. Wind transport is slow and steady compared to fluvial or longshore drift transport of sediment, and catastrophic aeolian events do not seem to be significant in wind-laid deposits.     

Impacts of wave energy and littoral currents on shoreline erosion/accretion along the south-west coast of Kanyakumari,Tamil Nadu using DSAS and geospatial technology

The present study investigates the impact of wave energy and littoral current on shorelines along the south-west coast of Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu, India. The multi-temporal Landsat TM, ETM+ images acquired from 1999 to 2011 were used to demarcate the rate of shoreline shift using GIS-based Digital Shoreline Analysis System. The statistical analysis such as net shoreline movement and end point rate were determined from the multi-temporal shoreline layers. Moreover, the wave energy and seasonal littoral current velocity were calculated for each coastal zone using mathematical equations. The results reveal that the coastal zones, which include Kanyakumari, Kovalam, Manavalakurichi and Thengapattinam coasts, consisting of maximum wave energy along with high velocity of littoral current, have faced continuous erosion processes. The estimated wave energy along these zones ranges from 6.5 to 8.5 kJ/km² and the observed current velocity varies from 0.22 to 0.32 m/s during south-west and north-east monsoons. The cumulative effect of these coastal processes in the study area leads to severe erosion that is estimated as 300.63, 69.92, 54.12 and 66.11 m, respectively. However, the coastal zones, namely Rajakkamangalam, Ganapathipuram, Muttam and Colachel, have experienced sediment deposits due to current movement during the north-east monsoon. However, the trend changes during the south-west monsoon as a result of sediment drift through backwash. The spatial variation of shoreline and its impact on wave energy and the littoral current have been mapped using the geo-spatial technology. This study envisages the impact of coastal processes on site-specific shorelines. Hence, the study will be effective for sustainable coastal zone management.     

Coastal erosion in the south-eastern Mediterranean: case of beaches in North Tunisia

This research is conducted as part of a Spanish International Cooperation Agency project with the aim to investigate the sustainable protection of Tunisian coastal zones, as in the case of Beni Khiar and Dar Chaabane coasts (Hammamet Gulf) separated by Oued El Kebir river. The sedimentary dynamic of these beaches is studied in order to identify the main causes responsible for their erosion by the use of different approaches of in situ measurements and numerical methods. Geophysical surveys and sedimentary analyses have demonstrated that sediments are finer and less carbonated from Beni Khiar to Dar Chaabane. Then, the shoreline mapping of several missions of aerial photos has illustrated a mean shoreline retreat between 3 and 4 m/year. In terms of sand volume, a sediment loss more than 30,000 m³/year at Dar Chaabane has been observed since the hill lake structures were built within Oued El Kebir river in 1996. Finally, modelled hydrodynamic and sedimentary patterns have illustrated the refraction of waves in deep water close to shoals and a high-energy concentration along Dar Chaabane coast. The sediment transport direction is mainly of NE-SW induced by ESE-SE wave-driven alongshore current. Results provided by these approaches have shown the importance of Oued El Kebir sediment yield in supplying the neighbouring beaches. Changes in sedimentary dynamics are affected by the modification of hydrodynamic patters caused by the presence of hydrological dams and the implementations of hotels close to the shoreline. This finding underlines the key role of Oued El Kebir fluvial activity in controlling the equilibrium of beaches and their sensitivity to coastal managements induced by man activities, as in the case of the most Mediterranean beaches.     

Geo-feasibility of in situ sediment capping in a Great Lakes urban estuary: a sediment budget assessment

Presque Isle Bay is one of 40 remaining environmental areas of concern (AoCs) on the North American Great Lakes that have one or more water, habitat, or sediment quality impairments as defined by the International Joint Commission. In situ natural capping using sediment from to-be-remediated watersheds and other potential sources is being considered as the most feasible means of remediating an existing contaminated sediment problem at this site. A multi-decade (∼40 year) sediment budget shows that, when localized anthropogenic effects (dredging, reclamation) are discounted, the bay net-accumulated sediment over time. Sediment was supplied from three major sources: bank erosion and bluff retreat (41%), streams (25%), and the Lake Erie littoral system (20%). The non-stream sources supply environmentally clean materials from ancient beach and glacio-lacustrine deposits along the shoreline, and from the modern littoral system. Organic and metallic contaminants supplied primarily by streams and run-off remain a remediation challenge for the AoC. Geologically, natural capping of contaminants over the next several decades is a viable solution for most of the bay. The mechanism may not work effectively in all areas because approximately 25% of the bay floor is moderately net-erosional while several localized areas accumulate sediments very slowly at decadal timescales.     

Application of wave transformation models for estimation of morphological changes at Vellar estuary,southeast coast of India

Assessment of the wave climate at near coast is vital for estimation of morphological changes, such as growth of sand spit and associated siltation of tidal inlets. Vellar (bar-built) estuary is one of the prominent estuaries along the southeast coast of India, located at 11°30′N and 79°46′E, less studied in terms of its morphological features. The inlet of Vellar is exposed to high energetic waves, inducing large sediment transport rates and shoreline changes. Local wave characteristics are not accurately defined and the available wave information at near coast is limited (point based observations). In the present study, three decoupled numerical models are employed to derive the monthly nearshore wave climate at Vellar by transforming waves from deep water to nearshore. These models are independently validated with buoy observations in deep water and wave gauge data at nearshore. Based on the nearshore wave data, littoral drift along the coast was estimated and compared with the spit growth at Vellar inlet. The estimated average littoral drift along this coast from February to October is 1.93 × 10⁶ m³ toward north and from November to January it is 1.52 × 10⁶ m³ toward south, resulting in a net northerly drift. Results indicated that increase in the wave energy during the period of July to September is responsible for the maximum growth of the sand spit observed in the field.     

An approximation to short-term evolution and sediment transport pathways along the littoral of Cadiz Bay (SW Spain)

This work presents the results of a beach-monitoring program carried out in the Bay of Cadiz (SW Spain), which consists of urban, natural and nourished beaches. In the present study, 24 topographic profiles have been monthly monitored during the 1996–1998 period, in order to draw the morphodynamic behavior of this coast and the general characterization of short-term coastal trends. This way, total volumetric budgets have been calculated for each beach profile in order to group beaches in different erosive/accreting sectors. Studied beaches recorded both erosion and accretion: the greatest accretionary trends have been observed at Aguadulce, La Costilla and Rota beaches, with values ranging from 30 to 70 m³/m. The largest erosion episodes have been recorded in the southernmost end of Valdelagrana spit, with values over 50 m³/m, and in Rota and Vistahermosa, after nourishment works. Main erosion and accretion pathways have been related to the existence of natural and human structures, which blocked the longshore drift suggesting the existence of littoral cells.     

Scanning electron microscope evidence for offshore-onshore sand transport at Fire Island, New York, USA

Balancing the sediment budget of the Atlantic shoreline of Long Island has proved to be problematic because more sediment has been found to be moving westward in littoral drift than was estimated to be supplied by wave erosion of the Ronkonkoma terminal moraine at Montauk Point. There is a need for the existence of an additional, possibly offshore source. As part of a larger Atlantic shore study, 11 beach samples from Fire Island were compared with samples representing the known glacial source at Montauk Point, and also with four offshore samples to the south. Comparisons were based upon quartz sand grain surface texture patterns derived by scanning electron microscope checklist analysis. Initial evidence of an offshore-onshore link was provided by qualitative results examining surface texture variability between samples, illustrated by photographic evidence and written notes. This evidence was confirmed consistently during quantitative analysis. In particular, canonical variate analysis grouped two offshore samples representing deposits of buried glacial to fluvioglacial lobes with beach samples from Fire Island in adjacent onshore locations or slightly downdrift. In addition, canonical variate analysis and factor analysis using the spssx package, together with cluster analysis using the ARTHUR package, depicted the main factors and texture variables largely responsible for sample discrimination. The significance of both the offshore-onshore link and the associated factors influencing quartz grain surface texture was revealed by the fact that they are strongly related to each other and to the regional geomorphology.     

GIS-based lake sediment budget estimation taking into consideration land use change in an urbanizing catchment area

The objective of this study was to assess the lake sediment budget of land use changes using the Universal Soil Loss Equation (USLE), sediment delivery ratio (SDR), and trap efficiency (TE). The geographic information system was combined with the USLE to estimate the soil erosion of the Lake Asan watershed. Spatial data for each of the USLE factors were obtained from the land use, soil, and 1/25,000 scale digital contour maps. Landsat-5 TM images were selected for analyzing soil erosion changes due to land use changes. The sediment yield to Lake Asan was estimated using the SDR and TE. The estimated sediment budget was compared with observed data from the Lake Asan watershed between 1974 and 2003. The total estimated annual mean sediment budgets from Lake Asan in 1986, 1992, and 2000 were 0.267, 0.301, and 0.339 × 10⁶ ton, respectively, with an average of 0.302 × 10⁶ ton. The average measured sediment budget was 3.15 × 10⁶ ton year^?1. The average estimated value shows reasonable agreement with the observed sediment balance. The average estimated and measured sediment budgets contain uncertainties due to both the methods and the approach used by the observers. The simulated results indicated that soil erosion in the Lake Asan watershed increased at a rate of approximately 2 % per year from 1986 to 2000 due to land use change. This study may be useful for managers to identify reservoir rehabilitation management methods for stable irrigation water supply.     

Environmental impacts of Baltim and Ras El Bar shore-parallel breakwater systems on the Nile delta littoral zone,Egypt

This study evaluates the impacts resulting from the construction of two large-scale detached breakwater systems on the Nile delta coast of Egypt at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches (~18.3 km shoreline length). The two protective systems were installed in a water depth of between 3 and 4 m and consist of 17 units in total (each ~250 m long). A comprehensive monitoring program spanning the years 1990 to 2002 was implemented and included beach-nearshore profiles, grain size distribution of seabed sand and information related to the background coastal processes. Evaluation of these systems concentrates on the physical impacts on coastal morphodynamics, mitigation and their design implications. The beach and nearshore sedimentation (erosion/accretion patterns) and grain texture of seabed sediment in the study areas have been substantially disrupted due to the interruption of longshore transport by the shore-parallel detached breakwaters. Rate of shoreline and seabed changes as well as alongshore sediment volume have been substantially affected, resulting in accretion in the breakwater landward sides (tombolo or salient) followed by downdrift erosion. The preconstruction beach erosion at Baltim (–5 m/year) and at Ras El Bar (–6 m/year) has been replaced, respectively, by the formation of sand tombolo (35 m/year) and salient (9 m/year). On the other hand, beach erosion has been substantially increased in the downdrift sides of these protective systems, being –20 m/year at Baltim and –9 m/year at Ras El Bar. Further seaward, the two protective systems at Baltim and Ras El Bar have accumulated seabed sand at maximum rates of 30 and 20 cm/year and associated with downdrift erosion of –45 and –20 cm/year, respectively. Strong gyres and eddies formed in the breakwater gabs have drastically affected swimmers and subsequently caused a significant number of drownings each summer, averaging 35 and 67 victims/year at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches, respectively. This study provides baseline information needed to help implement mitigation measures for these breakwater systems.     

Coastal erosion vs man-made protective structures: evaluating a two-decade history from southeastern India

Remote sensing images of AD 1991–2011 and field observations help evaluate shoreline changes (erosion and accretion) in Puducherry and Tamil Nadu states of southeastern India. A minor harbor was constructed during AD 1986–1989 in the coast of Puducherry, and it initiated the gradual process of shoreline modification. In the subsequent years, beaches located toward the north of the harbor suffered erosion (?0.12–?4.19 m/year) and there was accretion (0.27–7.25 m/year) in the southern beaches. However, the man-made structures (seawall and groin) have reduced the shoreline changes after AD 2004. In the last two decades, the rate of erosion area-wise gradually decreased (0.24–0.013 km²/year) and accretion remained constant (0.019 km²/year). Our results suggest that accretion happened in the southern side of the breakwaters and erosion occurred in the northern part. Presence of groins structures in the region in the northern part has also provoked accretion in the south and erosion in the northern side close to the State of Tamil Nadu.

     

The city of Tyre,Lebanon and its semi-artificial tombolo

The sedimentological history of the peninsular city of Tyre, located on the southern coast of Lebanon, reflects the political events surrounding Alexander the Great's conquest of the East (332 B.C.E.). Like many other Phoenician settlements, the city was originally situated on a small, relict rocky islet, but was later connected to the mainland by an artificial causeway constructed by Alexander's troops. As a result of the causeway construction, a gigantic tombolo formed, composed of at least 10 million m³ of sediment, mostly sand. Calculations based on the present size of the land tombolo of Tyre show that the average regional yearly volume of sand drift from the south and the north for the past 2300 years was approximately 4000 m³. If the present composition of high carbonate tombolo sands is representative of the entire sand body of the tombolo, about two thirds of the mass originates from nearby beaches which formed as a result of the erosion of the Pleistocene carbonate sandstone known as “Hajar Ramli.” © 1996 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.     

Modelling the Transport and Export of Sediments in Macrotidal Estuaries with Eroding Salt Marsh

A process-based numerical model is applied to investigate sediment transport dynamics and sediment budget in tide-dominated estuaries under different salt marsh erosion scenarios. Using a typical funnel-shaped estuary (Ribble Estuary, UK) as a study site, it is found that the remobilization of sediments within the estuary is increased as a result of the tidal inundation of the eroded salt marsh. The landward export of the finest sediment is also intensified. The relationship between salt marsh erosion and net landward export of sediments has been found to be non-linear—with the first 30% salt marsh erosion causing most of the predicted export. The presence of vegetation also influences the sediment budget. Results suggest that vegetation reduces the amount of sediment being transported upstream. Again, the trapping effect of salt marsh in terms of plant density is non-linear. Whilst a vegetated surface with a stem density of 64 plants/m² decreased the net landward export of very fine sand by around 50%, a further increase in stem density from 64 to 512 plants/m² had a relatively small effect.