我国近海波浪浮标的历史、现状与发展

回顾了我国波浪测量技术特别是近海波浪浮标技术的发展历程,提出了今后发展的若干建议。     

碟形浮标观测方向波谱误差分析及修正

改进了方向波谱的分析方法及噪声谱经验公式，使本法随测波环境及仪器特性自动修正经验参值，更易于实际应用。基于Maximum heave/pitch quad-spectrum method，由时域及频率域上的浮标动力反应数值计算，推求反应增益因子及相位延迟项，并进一步将其导入方向波谱计算，使其能修正资料浮标对波浪之轴不对称动态反应所造成的相位延迟不一致及主波向误差。经数值仿真验证，该方法的确能消减因资料浮标对波浪之轴不对称动态反应所造成的相位延迟及对主波向估算所造成之影响。应用花莲现场观测资料验证改良之主波向估算方法，得出是否考虑波浪运动与浮标运动间之振幅响应因子及相位延迟因子，所得之主波向的差异介于0－12℃之间。     

波浪能直接驱动机动浮标的推进机构设计

移动观测平台是海洋环境立体观测系统的重要组成部分。遥控水下机器人(ROV)、自治水下机器人(AUV)等移动平台由于需要支持船只和能源供给的限制,影响了它们长时间和大范围使用。本文利用波浪垂荡运动设计一种新型波浪能驱动的机动浮标,该系统由水上浮体和水下推进机构两部分组成,利用波浪垂荡运动,推动水下推进机构叶片的摆动,引起水下推进机构在水平方向向前的升力,使水下推进机构以及水上浮体实现无外在能源供给的自主运动。本文设计制造了波浪驱动机动浮标的实验样机,并进行了海试。实验表明,在中等海况条件下可以实现机动浮标的无动力前进。该设计为海洋环境调查、海洋生态监测和溢油跟踪等提供了一种有效的移动监测平台。     

Experimental Research of Resistance on Deep Sea Buoys and Mooring Systems

- In this paper a series of model experiments of resistance on buoys and mooring system components are described. The experiments include: experiments of hydrodynamic resistance on buoys and mooring system components, and experiment of air resistance on buoys in wind tunnel. The results are compared with the Beto's results (1980) and some analyses are conducted. The experimental results provide a reliable basis and some parameters for the design of deep sea mooring systems.     

基于浮标站和ERA5 再分析资料的浙江沿海台风浪特征分析

为了分析台风影响下浙江沿海风和浪的演变特点，利用浙江省海洋浮标站监测数据和欧洲中期天气预报中心第五代全球气候大气再分析数据（European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts Reanalysis v5，ERA5），选取2010年以来严重影响浙江的7次台风个例，对台风作用下浙江沿海海面风和浪的演变特点进行分析。结果表明：在台风影响过程中，海浪波型多数呈现混合浪-风浪-混合浪的演变规律；涌浪波型的出现与台风强度及其与浮标站的距离和方位有关，也与海洋潮汐现象紧密相关。台风影响期间，浙江沿海浪高的变化受风速和风向共同作用影响。在风向不变的情况下，持续风速增大对浪高的增大有明显作用；风向的变化也会对浪高变化产生影响，向岸风和离岸风的转变会造成浪高出现剧烈变化。ERA5 再分析资料有效波高在台风浪较大时会呈现偏小的趋势，分析订正后的ERA5 有效波高发现，台风浪有效波高大值区与台风中心位置相关。研究结果可为严重影响浙江沿海的台风浪预报服务提供参考。     

Comparison of Near Coastal Significant Wave Height Measurements from SARAL/AltiKa with Wave Rider Buoys in the Indian Region

Significant Wave Height (SWH) measurement data from the AltiKa Radar Altimeter (RA) for the first 13 cycles of satellite coverage are compared with the SWH from Wave Rider Buoys (WRB) located at nine stations along the Indian coast to assess the performance of the altimeter over the coastal region. AltiKa SWH observations within a 30-minute interval and 50 km distance from WRBs are found to be over estimated by 6%, the Root Mean Square Error (RMSE) is 0.36 m, the Scatter Index (SI) is 26%, and the correlation coefficient (r) is 0.91. Relaxing the distance criteria by 50 km leads to increase in RMSE and deterioration of r to 0.89. There is a marked difference in the statistics on the comparison pairs pooled separately for the buoys near west and east coasts, with the latter showing RMSE error 26% more than the former. The method of Cressman weights adopted to correct for the errors arising out of the temporal and spatial differences in altimeter and buoy data comparison pairs resulted in reduction of RMSE by 5% and 25%, respectively, for the 30-minute and 50 km criteria and 4% and 56% for the 30-minute and 100 km criteria.     

Determination of Ocean Wave Period from Altimeter Data Using Wave-Age Concept

This study makes use of the concept of wave age in estimating ocean wave period from space borne altimeter measurements of backscattering coefficient and significant wave height. Introduction of wave age allowed better accounting of the difference between swells and wind waves. Using two years (1998 and 1999) data of TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter and ocean data buoy observations in the Indian Ocean, coefficients were generated for wave period, which were subsequently tested against data for the years 2000 and 2001. The results showed the wave period accuracy to be of the order of 0.6 sec (against 1.3 sec obtained with the semiempirical approach, reported earlier).     

Determination of Ocean Wave Period from Altimeter Data Using Wave-Age Concept

This study makes use of the concept of wave age in estimating ocean wave period from space borne altimeter measurements of backscattering coefficient and significant wave height. Introduction of wave age allowed better accounting of the difference between swells and wind waves. Using two years (1998 and 1999) data of TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter and ocean data buoy observations in the Indian Ocean, coefficients were generated for wave period, which were subsequently tested against data for the years 2000 and 2001. The results showed the wave period accuracy to be of the order of 0.6 sec (against 1.3 sec obtained with the semiempirical approach, reported earlier).     

The Nonlinear Wave Force on a Circular Cylinder in Shallow Water

Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier.     

"采用SCADA通信系统通过国内卫星传输资料浮标数据研究"及其应用

海洋资料浮标测量数据传输的安全、可靠、经济和方便,是多年来浮标工程研究的课题。文中介绍我国海洋资料浮标数据传输方式的变革,国内卫星(中卫-1号)的性能及覆盖海域,"全线通"双向数据卫星通信系统原理特点以及"采用SCADA通信系统通过国内卫星传输资料浮标数据研究"成果在我国东海、南海的应用情况。     

Numerical Model of Cnoidal Wave Flume

The volume of fluid(VOF)method is used to set up a wave flume with an absorbing wavemaker of cnoidal waves.Based on the transfer function between wave surface and paddle velocity obtained bythe shallow water wave theory,the velocity boundary condition of an absorbing wave maker is introduced toabsorb reflected waves that reach the numerical wave maker.For H/d ranging from 0.1 to 0.59 and T(g/d)~(1/2)from 7.9 to 18.3,the parametric studies have been carried out and compared with experiments.     

新型波浪采集系统平台设计

主要介绍了新型波浪采集系统的设计思想与主要参数，采集、存储、运算和电源控制部分的结构与组成，以及各部分的特点和关键技术。     

单点GPS浮标测波方法与数据质量控制研究

首先对GPS浮标测波原理进行分析,介绍了GPS接收器测量运动参数的多普勒方法;然后对于在现场测量中可能发生的采样丢失所导致的数据间断进行探讨,并提出了间断接续和冗余采样的解决方法,通过数值模拟实验证明了数据质量控制方法的有效性.     

Estimation of Extreme Coastal Wave Heights from Time Series of Wave Data

1.IntroductionLarge coastal stormor extreme waves cancause direct damagetocoastal structures,severelyerodesandy beaches andinundate coastal land,resultingin damage to coastal environment(You and Lord,2006).Large coastal stormwaves alsocause extensive sedi…     

Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

JBY1-1型波浪浮标检定装置

在国家海洋局支持下，国家海洋标准计量中心成功研制了JBY1-1型波浪浮标检定装置。该装置填补了我国波浪浮标检定领域的空白，在波高、波周期等主要技术性能上优于欧美发达国家同类设备。本文详细介绍了该装置的结构、组成、主要技术指标，关键技术及实际应用情况等。     

船型海洋资料浮标的设计

介绍了我国船型海洋资料浮标浮标体和锚泊系统的设计方案 ,该浮标可适用于远海、深海海域布放 ,定点实时获取布放海域的水文、气象等有关要素的现场参数     

COPEX和HM2000与APEX型剖面浮标比测试验及资料质量评价

利用船载CTD仪、国外剖面浮标(APEX)和实验室盐度计等标准仪器设备,在西北太平洋海域对2种型号国产剖面浮标(COPEX和HM2000)进行了现场比测试验,并对观测资料质量进行了定性和定量分析与评价.结果表明:(1) COPEX和HM2000型剖面浮标观测的盐度资料均能达到国际Argo计划提出的±0.01的精度要求;(2)HM2000的最小观测深度离海面1 m以内,最大观测深度基本稳定在2 000 m左右,并能保持在1000 m深度附近漂移,而COPEX的最小观测深度在8～9 m之间,最大观测深度则在1 800～1 900 m之间波动,且漂移深度都在600～800 m之间;(3)COPEX和HM2000都获得了70条以上有效观测剖面.总体而言,两种国产剖面浮标观测的温、盐度资料都是可信、可靠的.但试验中暴露的一些问题和不足仍有待不断改进和完善.     

基于GNSS浮标的波浪反演技术研究

波浪观测在海洋环境预报、海洋工程建设、海洋资源调查、航海安全等领域具有重要作用。基于全球导航卫星系统（Global Navigation Satellite System,GNSS）浮标进行波浪观测的方法具有全天候、实时、准确度高、价格低等诸多优点,同时还可以在浮标上集成其他海洋环境测量仪器,因此越来越受到世界各国研究者的重视。本文提出一种基于GNSS浮标的波浪参数反演方法,并成功应用于浙江温州海域,在海试过程中,同公认的波浪骑士浮标对比,平均波高相关系数达到0.95,标准差为4.06 cm,平均波周期相关系数为0.92,标准差为0.24 s,完全符合国家标准。本文所用浮标系统还可以搭载多种海洋环境要素观测传感器,可将数据实时传输至接收终端,具有较高的应用价值。     

浮标在风浪中的运动特性分析

通过统计分析方法 ,提出了浮标在风浪中的运动频谱特性。实际应用证明 ,运用本文所提出的方法 ,可以优化设计浮标的运动特性。