FORESHORE DEPOSITIONAL PATTERNS ALONG THE RHODE ISLAND SOUTHSHORE

An application of polynomial curve fitting to sediment cumulative frequency distributions is presented to delineate the foreshore depositional patterns along the barrier beaches of the Rhode Island southshore. The analysis is based on 92 sampled stations where data for beach geometry, tidal stage, and sediment size were collected. Using the size-frequency classes obtained from sieving the foreshore sediment samples at 0.25 O intervals and fitting third-degree polynomial equations to these data, over 94% of the variation within the sediment cumulative frequency distributions is explained. The four curve coefficients (a, b, c, d) derived from the predicted third-degree equation are used in a discriminant function analysis to test the relationship between the curve shape and sediment source. Comparison of the discriminant scores with the respective station locations suggests that a series of Pleistocene headlands which occur as discrete points along the beach are serving as independent sources of sediment for the system.     

A general framework for modeling sediment supply to coastal dunes including wind angle,beach geometry,and fetch effects

A series of spatially explicit equations are derived that form the foundation of a modeling framework that provides insight into how the interaction of the fetch effect and angle of wind approach leads to tradeoffs that govern the magnitude of aeolian sediment transport across beaches of different geometry. The spatial distribution of sediment transport rate per unit width at any point on the beach is shown to vary predictably as a function of wind angle, critical fetch, and beach geometry; and this has evident implications for the total volume and distribution of sediment transport into the dunes behind the beach as well as the proportion of sediment lost from the beach-dune system at the downwind margin. As the wind field shifts from onshore (shore perpendicular) to oblique (shore parallel) approach angle, total sediment transport rate across a dune line segment will reflect a tradeoff between transport reduction because of the cosine effect and transport enhancement because of potentially longer fetch distances traversed by the wind prior to encountering the dune line. This tradeoff is most evident on long, narrow beaches when beach width is less than the critical fetch. For such beaches and with onshore winds, the total sediment transport rate across the dune line will be less than that predicted for a wide beach because of the constraint imposed by the fetch effect. However, as the angle of wind approach becomes oblique, the available fetch becomes progressively longer, transport limitations imposed by the fetch effect are negated, and transport enhancement across the dune line is to be expected. With very large angles of wind approach, the cosine effect dominates the interaction and transport reductions across the dune line occur until the wind is shore parallel and sediment supply to the dunes ceases altogether. This sequence of adjustments and tradeoffs were only partially understood prior to this study, and yet they form the foundation of coastal dune modeling. The framework proposed in this paper serves to place future studies of process-form interaction in beach-dune systems on a robust theoretical foundation. It also facilitates the testing of various alternative hypotheses regarding the uneven spatial and temporal distribution of dune height and growth rate in coastal environments.     

TRANSFORMATION PATTERNS OF SUBAERIAL MICRO-TIDAL BEACHES

Seven subaerial, low energy beaches in the SE Mediterranean were surveyed biweekly for 13 months. Beach level data were computer-processed and plotted as time-series profile diagrams that differentiated the subaerial beach into three basic subenvironments: backshore, berm, and swash-zone. Heterogeneous seasonal trends in beach sand budget, erosion/accretion patterns, occurrence of ridges and berm-crests, and in pollution by seaborne tar were observed. The profile stations also showed very different degrees of seasonality, although located along similar beaches. Local beachrock protection, when evident, effectively masked seasonality by significantly lowering beach dynamics. Biweekly, seasonal, and annual fluctuations of the beach sand-budget were computed. Average annual net sand flux at the seven beaches was 66 m³/m of beach front, though wide variations occurred. Annual changes in the sand budget along the study area exceeded volumetric changes within the profile, indicating longshore sand transfer. Synchronism of beach behavior prevailed only at the seasonal level. However, intra-seasonal fluctuations for the different profile stations were out of phase, indicating poor synchronism of beach response due to longshore movement of rhythmic topography. Profile changes were thus often unrelated to concomitant wave-climate changes. The overall heterogeneous beach response was in sharp contrast to the identical wave climate, similar bathymetry, and sedimentology of the studied beaches.     

Effects of fetch and surface texture on aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches

Aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches was related to the fetch of the wind over the beach sand and to surface characteristics. Meteorological and hydrological conditions were recorded for 2 months. The fetch of wind over beach sand was estimated from wind direction, water level, wave height and beach topography. Aeolian sand transport was determined with sand traps. Sediment flux was found to increase with fetch, although this relation was especially affected by the variability in surface characteristics. On one of the beaches sediment supply was limited as a result of shells, forming a lag deposit.     

SHORELINE CHANGE AT THOMPSON ISLAND,BOSTON HARBOR,MASSACHUSETTS, 1938-1977

A photogrammetric and sediment analysis is presented to illustrate the relationship between beach erosion and seacliff recession on Thompson Island, Boston Harbor, Massachusetts. Aerial photographs taken in 1938, 1952, 1963, and 1977 were measured to determine rates of shoreline change around the island. The 39-year average rate of beach erosion is 0.3 m/yr ± 2% with an average rate of cliff recession at 0.2 m/yr ± 2%. Rates of beach erosion between six orientations that reflect principal wave approach to the island were not found to be significantly different (0.05) for the 39-year period. The rank order correlation between beach erosion and cliff recession for these six orientations was moderately well correlated (0.63). To determine possible controls of cliff erosion, 58 sediment samples were collected from glacial cliffs along the shoreline. The textural composition was determined, and then tested with discriminant function analysis. Partial correlation analysis between beach erosion and cliff recession holding a surrogate for sediment size constant improved the rank order from 0.63 to 0.84. The results indicate that coarser-grained cliffs recede at faster rates, but with less erosion occurring on adjacent beaches. Alternatively, finer-grained cliffs recede at slower rates, but with greater erosion occurring on adjacent beaches.     

Sequence morphodynamics at an emergent barrier island, middle Atlantic coast of North America

The southern Delmarva Peninsula is located along the middle Atlantic Coastal Plain of the United States. The axial highland of the peninsula formed in four stages of Pleistocene spit progradation. The landward shoreline of the peninsula is on the Chesapeake Bay. The seaside shoreline of the peninsula is on the Atlantic Ocean. The coast of the peninsula is composed of five landscape sections described as a headland, a left-hand spit, a right-hand spit, a wave-dominated barrier island, and tide-dominated barrier islands.Fisherman Island is a barrier island located at the southern end of the southern Delmarva Peninsula. The landscape features on Fisherman Island do not illustrate a direct linkage to (1) the sediment dispersion from the Delaware headland or (2) the influence of local antecedent topography. The island has a bipolar progradational history that is normal to the axis of the southerly sediment dispersion pattern from the Delmarva headlands.During the late Holocene, sea-level rise flooded the low-elevation land at the distal end of the southern Delmarva Peninsula. The submerged area formed a shallow platform in the entrance to the Chesapeake Bay. Two sediment dispersion tracts affected the development of this area. On the ocean side of the peninsula, sediment moved southward along the lower shoreface to the Chesapeake Bay entrance. On the west side of the peninsula, southerly moving bay currents also dispersed sediment to the entrance of the bay. The two tracts converged on the northern side of the bay entrance forming a broad sand shoal. Wave diffraction and refraction around the margins of the shoal “swept” sediment into linear sand bars that migrated back toward the peninsula.By the middle of the 19th century, the fusion of sand bars on the shoal surface produced a permanent nucleus for island development. Wave refraction caused wave crests to “wrap around” the island core producing separate easterly and westerly components of shore aggradation. The westerly aggradational history is recorded in closely spaced sets of beach ridges. The easterly aggradational history is recorded in broadly spaced hammocks.     

Cyclic and Seasonal Beach Response: A Comparison of Oceanside and Bayside Beaches

This study compares the cyclic and seasonal geomorphic responses of oceanside and bayside beaches on Sandy Hook Spit, New Jersey. It was hypothesized that the different nature of onshore wind regimes at bayside and oceanside beaches would cause different types of beach change. On the east-facing ocean shoreline, rates of beach change are related to weather patterns associated with the passage of mid-latitude cyclonic storms. Bayside beach change is related to the influence of the prevailing westerlies. Storm erosion and post-storm deposition is more rapid on oceanside beaches. Swell waves occurring between storms rapidly reinstate pre-storm equilibrium conditions. Lower bay-side wave energies occurring between storms have little effect on profile development, and foreshore slopes inherited from previous storms undergo little change. Bayside beaches therefore appear to be more in equilibrium with storm conditions than oceanside beaches.

Changes in foreshore slope, beach volume, and beach position associated with individual storm events are compared to seasonal trends to test the applicability of the Hayes cyclic model of beach development to both oceanside and bayside beaches. There is evidence of a cyclic trend of develop-ment on the more exposed ocean sites and seasonal development on the more sheltered bayside sites, which suggests that cyclic development may be causally related to the difference among the energy levels of the storm and nonstorm wave regimes.     

Medium time-scale behaviour of adjacent embayed beaches: Influence of low energy external forcing

Medium term (decadal) beach profile response to external forcing was assessed on two adjacent embayed beaches (North and South Sands) in Pembrokeshire, West Wales. Both have contrasting physical and geological characteristics: a headland bay backed by dunes and a constrained embayment backed by geological promontories, promenades, walls and rock revetments. Paired t-tests showed significant changes at all cross-shore profile locations (95% confidence), with south and north shores respectively exhibiting falling and rising beach levels. South to north sediment transport was revealed by volumetric variation (r = 0.83), and longshore sediment distribution (r = 0.91). North Beach level variations lagged behind South Beach by one-year (r = 0.85). A reduction in high wind speed frequency, coincidental to spring tides, was correlated with falling South Beach levels (r = 0.87) and rising North Beach levels (r = −0.92). Heavily refracted Atlantic swells also have contrasting effects on these systems. Multiple regression models applied to beach level change for both systems showed high correlation (R² = 0.93 and 0.85 respectively), suggesting that swell wave period and strong north-westerly winds that occur during high spring tides had cumulative effects. Furthermore, variations in the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) index were correlated to cumulative changes in mean sea level, wind wave height and south-westerly winds (R² = 0.75). While NAO variations were linked to variations in South Beach morphology, it was insignificant on North Beach (r = −0.72 and −0.14 respectively). Cross-correlation analyses showed that North Beach morphological changes lagged behind NAO Index variation by one-year with much improved correlation (r = 0.77). A similar scenario existed when comparing Mean Sea level and beach level differences (r = −0.54 and −0.32 respectively). Similar behaviour should be exhibited at other worldwide embayments, and it is suggested that this work is repeated to establish specific responses, to will underpin intervention or no active intervention strategies.     

海南岛东部铜鼓岭岸段港湾岸滩沉积特征

海南岛东部铜鼓岭岬角南、北两侧的淇水湾和月亮湾海岸海滩均为中粗砂海滩,其中值粒径和平均粒径主要分布在0~2 Ф之间,反映了海南岛东部动力作用整体较强。月亮湾近岸20 m水深处沉积物的中值粒径主要分布在-1~-3 Ф之间,主要以砾石为主;10~20 m水深处沉积物中值粒径分布在-1~0 Ф之间,以极粗砂为主;铜鼓岭南部淇水湾,以粗砂为主,部分区域出现细砂,反映海滩受到的动力条件不如北部月亮湾海岸海滩显著。造成这种差异的主要原因是铜鼓岭岬角对东北向(主风向)风浪的阻挡和岬角南部港湾有宽广的珊瑚礁平台对波浪的消能。而且,淇水湾海岸北部和南部也有差异,北部珊瑚礁平台受到破坏,对波浪的消浪较弱,从而表现同一海滩滩面物质分布的南北差异。     

Controls on the formation of coastal ventifacts

Ventifacted boulders are present within the intertidal zone of a mixed sand and boulder beach in Gweebarra Bay, northwest Ireland. The boulders show features typical of wind abrasion by sand including polished surfaces, pits and grooves. Orientation of ventifact keels was measured and direction of prevailing winds responsible for ventifaction was inferred from a sample of 50 boulders in each of two adjoining locations on the beach (30 m apart). The keel orientations and inferred wind direction are both strongly clustered but results from each location differ by 90° from one another, and neither corresponds closely to the present-day regional wind regime. Since wind flow patterns were not significantly different during the Little Ice Age, when the ventifacts were likely formed, the orientation of ventifact keels cannot be used uncritically, as in many studies, as a proxy record of prevailing wind direction. It is likely that ventifact development in Gweebarra Bay was controlled by sediment availability rather than by wind direction.     

Evidence of aeolian sediment transport across an Ammophila arenaria‐dominated foredune,Mason Bay,Stewart Island

Aeolian sedimentation across an Ammophila arenaria‐dominated foredune was assessed for eight months using sand traps. This research aimed to ascertain if such foredunes act as a barrier to transport between beaches and hinterland dune systems. At Mason Bay, sand was transported across the foredune at rates of up to 10 kg.hour^?1per 100 m length of coast at wind velocities of 31 m.s^?1. Results were compared with computational fluid dynamics modelled airflows and foredune volume changes. Saltation was important for up to 17 m past the stoss face. Rates of transport were well short of rates of volume gain. Approximately 2% or less of stoss face suspended sediment transport reached the hinterland. The foredune is primarily a sand sink.     

Planview Geometry and morphological characteristics of pocket beaches on the Catalan coast (Spain)

Coastal planform studies are a relevant initial stage before launching detailed dynamic field experiments. The aim of this study is to define the planform characteristics of 72 Catalan pocket beaches, natural and man-made, and to determine their sheltering effect, embaymentization and their status of equilibrium. Planform measurements were performed on SIGPAC, 1:5000 orthophoto sets and wave climate was provided by Puertos del Estado (Wana model). Planform parameters were applied and coastal planview indexes were determined.The study shows that the Catalan pocket beaches display a wide range of indentation, suggesting that no single structural, tectonic or morphological control dominates their planform. The man-made pocket beaches typically display indentations which are smaller than those shown by natural pocket beaches. Headland spacing and beach area are positively correlated. The more indented bays are, the shorter their beaches become. Low-indented pocket beaches are the widest and the longest ones.Deep indentation contributes towards beach protection and energy dissipation which counteracts rip efficiency and inhibits the formation of mega-rips. Pocket beaches often show gradual and moderate alongshore changes in texture and beach morphology. One third of the Catalan pocket beaches are “sediment starved”, i.e., 60% and more of their embayed shorelines are deprived of beach sediments. Examination of the status of equilibrium demonstrates that most of the Catalan pocket beaches are in an unstable mode, with indentation ratios that are unrelated to the wave obliquity.     

应用遥感技术分析廉州湾悬沙的动态特征

该文依据美国陆地卫星 (Landsat)接收的MSS、TM资料 ,得到廉州湾海区表层悬沙分布的解译图 ,分析廉州湾及湾外海区水流流场特征、悬沙的分布及输移扩散特征 ,并就潮流、径流等水动力对湾内悬沙运动、滩槽冲淤的作用和影响进行了讨论     

海滩养护影响下的海岸风沙堆积——以福建平潭岛龙凤头海滩养护工程为例

海滩养护工程实施后,在保护海岸抵御侵蚀的同时往往还产生其他的环境问题。尤其在强风区海岸,海滩养护造成了滩面环境的改变,使滩面风沙搬运和沉积特征都发生了显著变化。对福建平潭岛龙凤头海滩养护工程实施前后的风沙沉积对比研究表明,养护后海滩的干滩宽度、滩面沉积物粒径、表层湿度、海滩高程等环境要素变化对滩面风沙搬运与沉积过程都产生了重要的影响。主要结论为:(1)养护海滩干滩滩肩高程的提高增加了滩面风速,增大了滩面风沙输沙率;(2)养护海滩干滩宽度的增加既扩大了风区长度也为风沙搬运提供了充足的物源,且不受潮汐过程影响,提供了持续的风沙物源供给,增加了风沙作用时间;(3)养护海滩剖面形态的变化使得海滩滩面沉积物含水率减小,降低风沙起动风速,增强了滩面风沙搬运。     

基于GPR图像的河北昌黎海岸横向沙脊北段沉积构造及其成因

运用探地雷达对河北昌黎海岸带横向沙脊的沉积构造进行探测,通过对探地雷达探测影像进行处理与解译,获得海岸沙丘约20 m深度范围内的海岸横向沙脊沉积构造图像,包括沉积层理的倾向、倾角与平面展布信息等。研究发现,昌黎海岸横向沙脊北段的沉积构造主要由高角度交错层理和波状交错层理组成,两者之间界面应为古海滩沿岸沙坝的顶面。界面以上发育稳定的向SWW倾斜的高角度交错层理,倾角约为30°~32°,为向岸风作用形成的前积层理;横向沙脊的丘顶可见槽状交错层理,可能是沙丘脊顶部沉积作用对风向季节性变化的响应。界面以下波状交错层理发育,为波浪作用形成的海滩沉积构造。结合前人对探测区地层调查以及全新世晚期以来海岸线变迁研究成果综合分析,认为海岸横向沙脊是大约2000 aBP以来,以澙湖海滩沿岸沙坝为基础经长期风力吹扬作用持续增长而发育的风成沙丘。     

长江口水域悬沙浓度时空变化与泥沙再悬浮

根据近年来长江河口及其邻近水域8个测站1年的表层悬沙浓度逐日观测资料,并结合水动力状况,对悬沙浓度的时空变化进行了分析。结果发现,长江口自徐六泾以下悬沙浓度不断增高,并呈现口内夏高冬低,而口外冬高夏低,且量值为口外大于口内,杭州湾大于长江口。表明长江入海泥沙在海洋动力作用下强烈再悬浮;悬沙浓度在时间上呈现明显的大小潮周期和季节性变化。进一步分析认为,海洋动力 (风浪和潮流) 是泥沙再悬浮的主导因素,制约悬沙浓度的年内变化,其中潮流控制悬沙浓度的大小潮周期变化,风浪引起悬沙浓度的季节性变化,河流径流和海洋动力的对比制约悬沙浓度的空间分布。     

THE MARBLE BEACHES OF TUSCANY*

ABSTRACT. Beach‐nourishment operations designed to replace sediment lost through erosion change the identity and meaning of coastal landscapes. Seven beaches in Tuscany, nourished with marble‐quarry waste, reveal how an industrial byproduct is naturalized by particle rounding and sorting and can become a positive symbol of human‐altered nature. The marble was placed on formerly sandy beaches, resulting in different grain size and color of sediments, beach morphology, and value for human use. The abrasion rate of marble makes the nourished beaches unsatisfactory when viewed solely as protection structures, but the rapid particle rounding and aesthetic appeal of marble increase the acceptability of the beaches for recreation.     

海平面上升与海滩侵蚀

世纪性的海平面持续上升，加大了海岸水下斜坡深度，逐渐减小波浪对沉溺古海岸的扰动作用而形成海底的横向供沙减少，却加强激浪对上部海滩的冲刷。逐渐上升的海平面，降低了河流坡降而减少了入海沙量。因此世界海滩普遍出现沙量补给匮乏。海平面上升伴随着厄尔尼诺现象与风暴潮频率的增加，水动力加大。这两者的综合效应，使海滩遭受冲刷，沙坝向陆移动。如按ＩＰＣＣ估计，至２１００年海面上升５０ｃｍ时，中国主要旅游海滨的沙滩将损失现有面积的１３％─６６％。主要对策是海岸防护与海滩人工喂养。     

Development and setting of the Alcudia Bay beach–dune system (Mallorca, Spain)

The beach–dune system of Alcudia Bay is located in the north of the island of Mallorca. The system includes both simple and compound parabolic dunes formed by N to NNE winds and is made up of two dune areas with different dynamics: 1) the northern area, where, despite the fact that the source of beach sediment is from the south, dunes are formed by northerly winds and develop a narrow and linear barrier which separates a marsh from the bay; and 2) the southern area, where complex parabolic dunes formed by north-northeasterly winds, prograde south-southwest landward extending several kilometers inland. The broad pattern of the dunefield size is limited to the southeast by a mountain range and to the west by the effects of a topographic corridor, oriented north–south, which channels the prevailing northerly wind, causing a southward dune progression and limiting the westward extension of the dunefield.     

黄河入海悬沙季节输送变化与输送机制的数值研究(英文)

Based on sediment and discharge flux data for the Yellow River, realistic forcing fields and bathymetry of the Bohai Sea, a suspended sediment transport module is driven by a wave-current coupled model to research seasonal variations and mechanisms of suspended load transport to the Bohai Sea. It could be concluded that surface sediment concentration indicates a distinct spatial distribution characteristic that varies seasonally in the Bohai Sea. Sediment concentration is rather high near the Yellow River estuary, seasonal variations of which are controlled by quantity of sediment from the Yellow River, suspended sediment concentration reaches its maximum during summer and fall. Furthermore, sediment concentration decreases rapidly in other seas far from the Yellow River estuary and maintains a very low level in the center of the Bohai Sea, and is dominated by seasonal variations of climatology wind field in the Bohai Sea. Only a small amount of sediments imported from the Yellow River are delivered northwestward to the southern coast of the Bohai Bay. Majority of sediments are transported southeastward to the Laizhou Bay, where sediments are continuously delivered into the center of the Bohai Sea in a northeastward direction, and part of them are transported eastward alongshore through the Bohai Strait. 69% of sediments from the Yellow River are deposited near the river delta, 31% conveyed seaward, within which, 4% exported to the northern Yellow Sea through the Bohai Strait. Wind wave is the most essential contributor to seasonal variations of sediment concentration in the Bohai Sea, and the contribution of tidal currents is also significant in shallow waters when wind speed is low.