The statistics of wave height and crest elevation during the December 2012 storm in the North Sea

This paper concerns new field measurements of wave height and crest elevation probability distributions as measured in the North Sea during a storm in December 2012. The water surface elevation was recorded by Saab WaveRadar REX instruments mounted on eight fixed-jacket platforms in addition to a Datawell Directional Waverider buoy. The storm generated an easterly sea state which peaked well in excess of the 100-year wave height for that direction in the region. Furthermore, 19 freak waves occurred during the storm according to the definition as reported by Haver (2000). The present study demonstrates that the significant steepness and spectral bandwidth during the storm remain almost constant. Consequently, there is little change in the commonly applied design wave height and crest elevation probability distributions throughout the storm. Whilst the bulk of the recorded data was in good agreement with the theoretical distributions, it was demonstrated that when the wind speed was larger than 25 m/s, the measured crest elevation lies above the second-order Forristall distribution.     

Simulated wind-generated inertial oscillations compared to current measurements in the northern North Sea

Measured current speed data show that episodes of wind-generated inertial oscillations dominate the current conditions in parts of the northern North Sea. In order to acquire current data of sufficient duration for robust estimation of joint metocean design conditions, such as wind, waves, and currents, a simple model for episodes of wind-generated inertial oscillations is adapted for the northern North Sea. The model is validated with and compared against measured current data at one location in the northern North Sea and found to reproduce the measured maximum current speed in each episode with considerable accuracy. The comparison is further improved when a small general background current is added to the simulated maximum current speeds. Extreme values of measured and simulated current speed are estimated and found to compare well. To assess the robustness of the model and the sensitivity of current conditions from location to location, the validated model is applied at three other locations in the northern North Sea. In general, the simulated maximum current speeds are smaller than the measured, suggesting that wind-generated inertial oscillations are not as prominent at these locations and that other current conditions may be governing. Further analysis of the simulated current speed and joint distribution of wind, waves, and currents for design of offshore structures will be presented in a separate paper.     

Trace metals in the northern North Sea

Cadmium, lead and copper have been determined in the dissolved and particulate phase for surface waters of the northern North Sea. Dissolved cadmium and copper show concentration gradients associated with salinity fronts which mark the boundary between coastal and ocean waters; lead does not. The particulate phase is shown to represent only a small fraction of the total metal concentration. Processes likely to be responsible for the observed distribution are discussed.     

A study of wave refraction in the northern Ligurian Sea

Two mathematical models of surface gravity wave refraction were applied to a coastal area of the northern Ligurian Sea. A series of refraction patterns was computed by means of wave data recorded at a moored platform operating 1.5 miles off the harbour of Genoa. The numerical calculations provided an effect of wave energy concentration near Chiavari and Lavagna where coastal structures and beaches are often damaged during storm surges.     

Biological accumulation of chlordane compounds in marine organisms from the northern North Pacific and Bering Sea

Sum of chlordane compounds (ΣCHL; cis-chlordane + trans-chlordane + cis-nonachlor + trans-nonachlor + oxychlordane) are concentrated gradually with trophic levels from zooplankton to Dall's porpoise (Phocoenoides dalli) through squid and fish. The order of bioconcentration factors (BCF: concentration in organism/concentration in seawater) in these organisms was ΣDDT (p,p′-DDE + p,p′-DDD + p,p′-DDT)>ΣCHL≦PCBs>ΣHCH (α-HCH + β-HCH + γ-HCH). Calculation for the concentration factor against food, namely biomagnification factor (BMF: concentration in organism/concentration in its food), was made for Dall's porpoise and thick-billed murre (Uria lomvia). The BMFs of these chemicals in thick-billed murre were lower than those of Dall's porpoise, suggesting the degradation and/or excretion of organochlorines through the uropygial gland with lipids. Moreover, the lowest BMF of ΣCHL in thick-billed murre among organochlorines may indicate that chlordane compounds (CHLs) are metabolized more rapidly by this seabird than Dall's porpoise.     

华南及南海北部地区瑞利面波层析成像

基于华南及周边地区106个宽频带地震台站多年记录的MS≥5.0中浅源地震事件, 开展瑞利面波层析成像和速度结构特征研究, 获得了华南大陆及南海北部地区10~100 s瑞利波群速度分布图像和典型剖面下方地壳上地幔速度结构, 为理解该地区构造演化和深部过程提供约束.考虑到实际地震射线的覆盖情况以及华南地区主要构造的主体展布特征, 本文同时采用传统的规则网格剖分和平行主要构造走向的非规则网格剖分方法, 分别进行分格频散反演, 开展了不同参数化方案对反演结果影响的对比分析研究.基于瑞利面波层析成像结果, 进行了典型剖面横波速度结构反演, 重建了华南地区由内陆至南海海域主要构造单元的壳幔横波速度结构.研究结果表明, 扬子和华夏块体地壳上地幔结构特征差异显著, 扬子块体地壳和岩石圈厚度均大于华夏地块, 且扬子块体上地幔顶部速度较华夏块体低, 岩石圈厚度在雪峰山造山带下方发生过渡和转换;南海北部陆缘和南海海盆上地幔速度较高且形态相对完整, 表现为非火山型大陆边缘和已停止扩张海盆的壳幔结构特征.     

Mean and eddy motion in the Skagerrak/northern North Sea: insight from a numerical model

Insight regarding the mean and eddy motion in the Skagerrak/northern North Sea area is gained through an analysis of model-simulated currents, hydrography, kinetic energy and relative vorticity for the 2 years 2000 and 2001. In this a -coordinate ocean model is used. Since the tidal currents are generally strong in the area, care is exercised to distinguish the mesoscale (eddy) motion from higher-frequency motion such as tides, before computing the mean and eddy kinetic energy. The model-simulated response is first compared with available knowledge of the circulation in the area, and when available, also with sea-surface temperature obtained from satellite imagery. It is concluded that the model appears to faithfully reproduce most of what is known, in particularly the upper mixed layer circulation. An analysis of the mean and eddy kinetic energy reveals that many of the mesoscale structures found in the area are recurrent. This is particularly true for the structures off the southern tip of Norway. Also in general, areas of strong mean and eddy kinetic energy are co-located. The exception is the area off the southern tip of Norway, where the eddy kinetic energy is much larger than its mean counterpart. An analysis of the relative vorticity reveals that the variability found is due to the occurrence of recurrent anticyclonic eddies. It is hypothesized that these eddies are generated due to an offshore veering of the Norwegian coastal current (NCC) as it reaches the eastern end of the Norwegian Trench plateau. Here it becomes a free jet, which is then vulnerable to either barotropic instability caused by the horizontal shear in the jet-like structure of the NCC at this point, or a baroclinic (frontal) instability. The latter may come into play when the NCC veers offshore and its relatively fresh water meets the inflowing saline water of Atlantic origin, a frontogenesis that may become strong enough for cyclogenesis to take place. Due to the depth-independent nature of the model-generated eddies, the barotropic instability is the most likely candidate. It remains to resolve the reason for the offshore veering of the NCC. The most likely candidate mechanisms are vortex squeezing or simply that the coastline curvature is large enough for the NCC to separate from the coast in a hydraulic sense.Responsible Editor: Phil Dyke     

A Bayesian hierarchical spatio-temporal model for significant wave height in the North Atlantic

Bad weather and rough seas continue to be a major cause for ship losses and is thus a significant contributor to the risk to maritime transportation. This stresses the importance of taking severe sea state conditions adequately into account in ship design and operation. Hence, there is a need for appropriate stochastic models describing the variability of sea states, taking into account long-term trends related to climate change. Various stochastic models of significant wave height are reported in the literature, but most are based on point measurements without considering spatial variations. As far as the authors are aware, no model of significant wave height to date exploits the flexible framework of Bayesian hierarchical space-time models. This framework allows modelling of complex dependence structures in space and time and incorporation of physical features and prior knowledge, yet at the same time remains intuitive and easily interpreted. This paper presents a Bayesian hierarchical space-time model for significant wave height. The model has been fitted by significant wave height data for an area in the North Atlantic ocean. The different components of the model will be outlined, and the results from applying the model to monthly and daily data will be discussed. Different model alternatives have been tried and long-term trends in the data have been identified for all model alternatives. Overall, these trends are in reasonable agreement and also agree fairly well with previous studies. Furthermore, a discussion of possible extensions to the model, e.g. incorporating regression terms with relevant meteorological data will be presented.     

Seasonal variation of fluxes and distributions of dissolved methane in the North Yellow Sea

The concentrations and sea-to-air fluxes of dissolved methane (CH₄) were investigated in the North Yellow Sea during August 2006, January, April and October 2007. Dissolved CH₄ concentrations showed obvious seasonal variation, with maximum values occurring in summer and lowest values occurring in winter. The saturations of dissolved CH₄ in surface waters ranged from 78.7% to 1679.7% with an average of 252.4%. The estimated atmospheric CH₄ fluxes using the Liss and Merlivat (LM86), and Wanninkhof formulae (W92) were (4.2±4.7), (11.6±10.3), (8.5±12.7) and (0.2±1.0), and (6.9±7.3), (14.6±22.3), (13.8±14.3) and (0.4±1.7) μmol·(m² d)⁻¹, respectively, for spring, summer, autumn and winter. Based on the average annual atmospheric CH₄ flux and the area of the North Yellow Sea, the annual CH₄ emission was estimated to be (2.4×10⁻²–4.2×10⁻²) Tg a⁻¹, which suggests that the North Yellow Sea was a net source of atmospheric CH₄.     

基于波场延拓的变换坐标转换波静校正

常规的转换波静校正的基本思想都是从地震波的运动学特征出发,基于地表一致性假设.在地表条件复杂和地表高程相差较大的地区,它不仅无法解决严重的静校正问题,反而会带来新的畸变.本文基于频率波数域波动方程偏移原理,采用波场延拓方法实现转换波静校正,其关键点在于时间空间域和频率波数域的相对应.文中通过坐标变换将起伏地表转化为新坐标系下的水平地表,把炮点和检波点映射到同一水平面上,然后在新坐标系下推导频率域波动方程延拓公式,接着对下行波P和上行转换波SV分别利用近地表速度向上延拓到基准面,恢复起伏地表到基准面之间的真实波场,最后转换到原始坐标系取出基准面数据完成转换波静校正.通过对模拟和实际数据处理,证明该方法是正确和有效的.     

Array measurements of the bottom boundary layer and the internal wave field on the continental slope

Abstract

An array of current meters was placed on the continental slope and rise for two months in the autumn of 1970. The bottom boundary layer was penetrated on the slope. On the smallest array scale, of the order of 1 kilometer, the array functioned as a directional internal wave antenna. Moving shoreward, the current spectra show strong suppression of the inertial peak and strong enhancement of the semidiurnal tide. The measured wave number spectra show that the tidal energy is almost completely baroclinic, and probably being generated in the region where the slope becomes “critical” for the tidal period. If this area is typical of worldwide conditions, a substantial fraction of the dissipation of surface tides takes place on the continental slopes by conversion to baroclinic waves. The bottom boundary layer has been modeled by an extension of the work of Ellison (1956) to a sloping boundary in a fluid of positive stability. An equivalent constant eddy coefficient has the value 3 cm²/sec as determined from the measurements.     

The variability of the large-amplitude internal wave field on the Australian North West Shelf

Observations are presented of large-amplitude internal waves (LAIWs) generated by the steepening of the internal tide on the Australian North West Shelf (NWS) over a 4-month period extending from strongly stratified summer conditions to weakly stratified winter conditions. The observations are from a site in water depth of 124 m where current and temperature measurements were made from a fixed vertical mooring and a benthic L-shaped spatial array. The observations show the LAIWs at this site to be characterized by strong seasonal variability, with energetic LAIWs of depression being dominant during summer and weaker LAIWs of elevation being dominant during the winter months as the stratification weakens, the upper mixed layer deepens, and the thermocline is close to the bottom. Waves were also seen to propagate from a range of directions towards the observation site. Modeling using the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS v2.1) revealed that internal tide generation in the area occurred at water depths of between 400 and 600 m along an arc of approximately 120 km in length, some 70 km to the northwest of our experimental site. The results demonstrate both the 3D nature as well as the seasonal variation of the LAIW field.     

基于镭同位素分布的黄海和东海垂直混合速率计算

在黄海和东海采样测定了水体中的镭同位素分布,用平流扩散模型描述镭同位素分布,最小二乘方法计算了垂直涡动扩散系数和上升流或下降流流速.结果给出北黄海中部、南黄海中部、浙江沿岸和台湾北部海域存在上升流,流速分别为0.46×10-3cm·s-1、0.17×10-3~1.39×10-3cm·s-1、2.02×10-3~3.04×10-3 cm·s-1和1.06×10-3~2.51×10-3 cm·s-1.北黄海中部和东海东北部存在下降流.流速分别为-2.30×10-3 cm·s-1和-0.61×10-3~-2.10×10-3 cm·s-1.计算同时给出的垂直涡动扩散系数为5.84~48.2 cm2·s-1,平均值为22.3 cm2·s-1.北黄海和浙江沿岸上升流流速与文献的结果一致;北黄海中部存在下降流与文献的结论一致.本研究结果与文献结果一致是对所建立的方法的肯定,也是对文献研究结果的支持.     

The relationship between significant wave height and Indian Ocean Dipole in the equatorial North Indian Ocean

Based on reanalysis data, we find that the Indian Ocean Dipole (IOD) plays an important role in the variability of wave climate in the equatorial Northern Indian Ocean (NIO). Significant wave height (SWH) in the equatorial NIO, especially over the waters southeast to Sri Lanka, exhibits strong interannual variations. SWH anomalies in the waters southeast to Sri Lanka correlate well with dipole mode index (DMI) during both summer and autumn. Negative SWH anomalies occur over the oceanic area southeast to Sri Lanka during positive IOD events and vary with different types of IOD. During positive prolonged (unseasonable) IOD, the SWH anomalies are the strongest in autumn (summer); while during positive normal IOD, the SWH anomalies are weak in both summer and autumn. Strong easterly wind anomalies over the southeast oceanic area of Sri Lanka during positive IOD events weaken the original equatorial westerly wind stress, which leads to the decrease in wind-sea waves. The longer wave period during positive IOD events further confirms less wind-sea waves. The SWH anomaly pattern during negative IOD events is nearly opposite to that during positive IOD events.