A Numerical Model for Nonlinear Wave Propagation on Non-uniform Current

On the basis of the new type Boussinesq equations (Madsen et al.,2002),a set of equations explicitly including the effects of currents on waves are derived.A numerical implementation of the present equations in one dimension is described.The numerical model is tested for wave propagation in a wave flume of uniform depth with current present.The present numerical results are compared with those of other researchers.It is validated that the present numerical model can reasonably reflect the nonlinear influences of currents on waves.Moreover,the effects of inputting different incident boundary conditions on the calculated results are studied.     

地形与流对水平无旋浅水波的影响

本文在水平无旋及Boussinesq假设之下,导出了水面变化与水平速度场耦合方程组,以及相应的压力与垂向速度解析表示式。通过数值方法求得水面变化及某一特定水深的水平速度分布之后,压力分布及其余水深的速度分布即可由简单计算得到。由色散关系式可知,不同水深的长波色散关系在O(ε)近似之下是等同的。粘性的存在会使波高随时间的增加而衰减,但粘性与底斜率的耦合又可能使波高增长,形成不稳定;计算及分析说明,当同向流增大时,波速增大,波长增大,波高会增加;而水深减少,使波速减少,波长缩短,振幅增加。     

Numerical Simulation for Refraction-Diffraction of Waves in Water of Slowly Varying Current and Topography

A new numerical finite difference iteration method for refraction-diffraction of waves in waterof slowly varying current and topography is developed in this paper.And corresponding theoretical modelincluding the dissipation term is briefly described,together with some analysis and comparison ofcomputational results of the model with measurements in a hydraulic scale model(Berkhoff et al.,1982).An example of practical use of the method is given,showing that the present model is useful to engineeringpractice.     

Higher Harmonics Induced by Waves Propagating over A Submerged Obstacle in the Presence of Uniform Current

To investigate higher harmonics induced by a submerged obstacle in the presence of uniform current, a 2D fully nonlinear numerical wave flume（NWF） is developed by use of a time-domain higher-order boundary element method（HOBEM） based on potential flow theory. A four-point method is developed to decompose higher bound and free harmonic waves propagating upstream and downstream around the obstacle. The model predictions are in good agreement with the experimental data for free harmonics induced by a submerged horizontal cylinder in the absence of currents. This serves as a benchmark to reveal the current effects on higher harmonic waves. The peak value of non-dimensional second free harmonic amplitude is shifted upstream for the opposing current relative to that for zero current with the variation of current-free incident wave amplitude, and it is vice versa for the following current. The second-order analysis shows a resonant behavior which is related to the ratio of the cylinder diameter to the second bound mode wavelength over the cylinder. The second-order resonant position slightly downshifted for the opposing current and upshifted for the following current.     

Instability of Two Interacting Quasi-Monochromatic Waves in Shallow Water

The nonlinear interactions of waves with a double-peaked power spectrum have been studied in shallow water.The starting point is the prototypical equation for nonlinear unidirectional waves in shallow water,i.e.the Korteweg de Vries equation.By means of a multiple-scale technique two defocusing coupled Nonlinear Schrdinger equations are derived.It is found analytically that plane wave solutions of such a system are unstable for small perturbations,showing that the existence of a new energy exchange mechanism which can influence the behavior of ocean waves in shallow water.     

Wave-Current Forces on Vertical Cylinders in Side-by-Side Arrangement for Irregular Waves Combined With Opposing Current

- The wave-current forces on vertical piles in side-by-side arrangement induced by irregular waves with opposing current are investigated experimentally in this paper. The characteristics in both time and frequency domain of in-line, lift and resultant forces are analyzed. The grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on piles related to KC number and relative spacing parameters are given. These results are compared with those in the case of irregular waves combined with following currents. It is found that the results in these two cases are quite different. The range of KC number tested is 10- 60, the range of Reynolds number is (0.55-3.43) ×104.     

Analysis of Mixing of Pollutants in Water Waves and Currents

A vertical two-dimensional turbulence numerical model for the interaction of waves and currents is developed in the paper based on the nonlinear two-equation k-ε model with the VOF method.The one-dimensional equivalent advection velocity and equivalent mixing coefficient are defined and the solving process is introduced:The pollutant concentration field,generated by an instant source in waves and currents,is calculated with the model,and then the equivalent advection velocity and equivalent mixing coefficient are obtained by calculating the time derivative of the mean and variance of pollutant concentration probability distribution.The effects of wave period and wave height on the equivalent mixing coefficient for waves and wave-currents are also investigated.     

浅海海底地形变迁对海上平台动力特性的影响

海上平台在服役期间,由于周围自然环境以及水动力条件的改变,使得其所在海域地形条件与设计时相比有较大的变化,这势必会对平台的动态响应产生影响。以老黄河口海域埕岛“中心1号”生活平台为例,通过现场实测和数值计算,分析了海底地形变迁对海上平台动力特性所产生的影响,为该海域未来平台的设计和施工提供参考。     

Waves and Currents in Tide-Dominated Location Off Dahej,Gulf of Khambhat,India

Based on measurements of waves, currents, and tides off Dahej in the Gulf of Khambhat, hydrodynamics are studied. Estimated tidal constituents show that primary lunar semi-diurnal constituent M2 was the strongest constituent, and the amplitude was found to be around 4.5 times stronger than that of the major diurnal constituent K1. Currents were predominantly tide induced with speeds up to 3.3 m/s and were north-northwest during flood tide and south-southeast during ebb tide. Residual cross-shore and along-shore current was found to be varying with the corresponding change in the cross-shore and along-shore wind speed. Influence of tidal current was observed in most of the wave statistical parameters.     

船行波对H-ADCP 影响分析研究

作为当今世界上最先进的测流仪器，水平式声学多普勒流速剖面仪（Horizontal Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler，H-ADCP） 因其精度高、速度快等突出优势在河流中的应用越来越广泛，但在航运业发达地区，由于受船行波的影响，很难得到稳定可靠的流速数据，阻碍了H-ADCP在平原河网地区的应用和推广。目前技术上很难做到完全消除船行波的影响，本文将H-ADCP应用在平原河网地区对流速进行测量，并分析了船行波对测量精度的影响。从H-ADCP设备选型、测量和安装方式、测量预处理、数据后处理等多方面入手，可以有效消减船行波对H-ADCP 的影响，从而提高测流精度。同时，通过实验测量断面一天内平均流速变化情况，得到受船行波影响后的流速波形，然后采用数据处理手段，验证了所提方法的可行性。     

Analytical Study on Transmission and Reflection of Non-Linear Shallow Water Waves

The analytical study is made by using the method of matched asymptotic expansions on the transmission and reflection of solitary waves and cnoidal waves on two-dimensional floating bodies. The solutions give explicitly the variation pattern of the transmitted waves and the characteristics of the reflected waves, including the wave profile, amplitude, phase shift and evolution. The effects of the gap between the body and the sea bottom on the transmission and reflection of those waves are also discussed.     

Acquisition and Inversion of Dispersive Seismic Waves in Shallow Marine Environments

Two types of dispersive seismic waves have been acquired in different geological settings to investigate the potential to reveal the elastic parameters of the shallow marine subsurface. Scholte waves as well as acoustic guided waves are excited by a near-surface towed airgun, and recorded using two acquisition methods: (1) the towed-acquisition system using a hydrophone streamer towed close to the sea floor, and (2) the stationary-receiver method using Ocean-Bottom Seismometers and/or Hydrophones (OBS/OBH). Our diverse data sets reveal that the spatial sampling of the wavefield required to avoid aliasing may vary significantly for different geological settings. Scholte waves are characterised by a few distinct modes observed at low frequencies and low phase velocities. Their dispersion is mainly controlled by the depth profile of the shear-wave velocity. Acoustic guided waves show profound amplitude variations of numerous higher modes over a broad frequency range. These are sensitive to shear-wave velocity, but more sensitive to compressional-wave velocity than Scholte waves are. To avoid the identification of distinct modes we infer 1-D models of elastic parameters of the subsurface from the inversion of the full wavefield spectra of acoustic guided waves. In the Siberian Laptev Sea we infer the presence of a soft sediment layer (8–10 m) with a well resolved strong S-velocity gradient (150–450 m/s). In the Baltic Sea a low P-velocity layer with a strong vertical gradient (1250–1440 m/s) corresponding to a post-glacial gassy mud layer could be resolved, which agrees well with the sediment stratigraphy derived from a gravity core.     

地形对东海黑潮锋面弯曲影响研究

作者运用简化的η坐标 POM模式数值研究了地形对东海黑潮锋面弯曲的产生与成长的影响。平底时 ,小扰动迅速发展导致锋面出现大弯曲。考虑到地形因素和黑潮流核远离陆架的情况 ,因其锋区正处在陡的陆坡之上 ,斜压不稳定被减小 ,其锋面不会出现如观测所示的弯曲。结果表明 ,在该实验条件下 ,地形对锋面起到稳定作用     

自升式平台水平偏移的数值模拟方法研究

自升式平台的水平偏移会增加作业难度,严重时降低平台的坐底稳定性。基于平台主体发生水平偏移U的原因,将水平偏移分成三部分:桩腿弯曲引起的水平偏移Ub,桩靴转动引起的水平偏移Ur以及桩靴平移引起的水平偏移Ud。利用有限元软件ABAQUS建立圆柱腿自升式平台-地基耦合模型,考虑桩土之间法向挤压、切向摩擦的接触关系,利用Coulomb定律计算摩擦力。利用子程序DLOAD实现波浪力的加载,波浪采用Airy波模型。针对桩周无回填土体、桩周土体未完全固结以及固结完成三个阶段,探究桩靴直径、回填土强度、以及埋置深度对U,Ud和Ub的影响。并与中国船级社《海上移动平台入级与建造规范》(2005)中推荐的方法进行对比。最后给出了相关的结论。     

浪流相互作用对北部湾内波浪、冷水团及冲淡水的影响研究

Wave-current interaction and its effects on the hydrodynamic environment in the Beibu Gulf(BG) have been investigated via employing the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport(COAWST) modeling system. The model could simulate reasonable hydrodynamics in the BG when validated by various observations.Vigorous tidal currents refract the waves efficiently and make the seas off the west coast of Hainan Island be the hot spot where currents modulate the significant wave height dramatically. During summer, wave-enhanced bottom stress could weaken the near-shore component of the gulf-scale cyclonic-circulation in the BG remarkably, inducing two major corresponding adjustments: Model results reveal that the deep-layer cold water from the southern BG makes critical contribution to maintaining the cold-water mass in the northern BG Basin.However, the weakened background circulation leads to less cold water transported from the southern gulf to the northern gulf, which finally triggers a 0.2°C warming in the cold-water mass area; In the top areas of the BG, the suppressed background circulation reduces the transport of the diluted water to the central gulf. Therefore, more freshwater could be trapped locally, which then triggers lower sea surface salinity(SSS) in the near-field and higher SSS in the far-field.     

Mathematical Models for Combined Refraction-Diffraction of Waves on Non-Uniform Current and Depth

Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.     

Experimetal Investigation of lift Forces on Horizontal Cylinder near Bottom in Oscillating Flow

The lift forces on horizontal cylinder near bottom is experimentally investigatde at Reynolds(Re)in the range lf 2500~10000and Keulegan~CARPENTER NUMBERS(kc) inthe intervalof5~20,and gap ratio (e/D) is from (a0)are analyzde by using the Fourier analyses method.It is found that found that both Cl& a0 are the functions lf the Kc number.     

Numerical Modeling of Wave Diffraction-Refraction in Water of Varying Current and Topography

—A numerical model for wave diffraction-refraction in water of varying current and topogra-phy is proposed,and time-dependent wave mild-slope equation with a dissipation term and correspondingequivalent governing equations are presented.Two different expressions of parabolic approximations forthe case of the absence of current are also given and analyzed.The influence of current on the results ofsimulation of waves is discussed.Some examples show that the present model is better than others in simu-lating wave transformation in large water areas.And they also show that the influence of current shouldbe taken into account,on numerical modeling of wave propagation in water of strong current and coastalareas,otherwise the modeling results will be largely distorted.     

吕宋海峡流场季节变化的数值模拟

基于海洋模式HYCOM(Hybrid Coordinate Ocean Model),利用大小区嵌套技术,分别对全球海洋和西北太平洋进行了网格嵌套数值模拟,研究了吕宋海峡海域环流场的季节性变化。考虑全球海洋环流影响的西北太平洋模式,成功地刻画了黑潮的流结构及季节变化。吕宋海峡海洋环流流场在不同深度处差异较大,存在着明显的季节变化。黑潮入侵南海主要发生在500m深度以上,冬季最明显,夏秋两季不明显。在500m层常年存在一支南海暖流流入西北太平洋,在800m层南海暖流消失。一年四季黑潮主要通过吕宋海峡的南部和中部进入南海。1 000m层流场表明,黑潮主要通过吕宋海峡的中部入侵南海。在800~1 000m处主要是黑潮水流入南海。     

相同尺度地形与背景流共振生成内孤立波机制

为研究内孤立波的地形和背景流共振机制,用地形和背景流共振机制计算了3个潜标观测的内孤立波(不同模态、不同波长)的流速和传播速度,并与观测到的内孤立波进行比较。潜标观测的第一模态内孤立波(波长分别为6.4和3.3km)都是下凹型内孤立波,2个内孤立波的传播速度约为1.4m/s、最大振幅约为48m,水平流向结构都是上层西北向、下层东南向,波长3.3km 的内孤立波波峰前后有更明显的下降流和上升流。用共振机制计算出的第一模态和第二模态纬向流速的垂向结构与观测相同,最大纬向流速出现的深度与观测一致,分别相差5和12m。用共振机制计算出的内孤立波传播速度与用 KdV 方程计算的传播速度相当,共振机制计算波速为0.66~1.21m/s,KdV 方程计算波速为0.79~1.40m/s。