A study of dissipation of wind-waves by mud at Cassino Beach,Brazil: Prediction and inversion

The impact of a non-rigid seafloor on the wave climate at Cassino Beach, Brazil, May–June 2005 is studied using field measurements and a numerical wave model. The measurements consist of wave data at four locations; rheology and mud thickness from grab samples; and an estimate of the horizontal distribution of mud based on echo-soundings. The dissipation of waves by a non-rigid bottom is represented in the wave model by treating the mud layer as a viscous fluid. Applied for 431 time periods, the model without this type of dissipation has a strong tendency to overpredict nearshore wave energy, except during a period of large storm waves. Two model variations which include this dissipation have a modest tendency to underpredict the nearshore wave energy. An inversion methodology is developed and applied to infer an alternate mud distribution which, when used with the wave model, yields the observed waveheights.     

The influence of nearshore sand bank dynamics on shoreline evolution in a macrotidal coastal environment,Calais, northern France

Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×10⁷ m³ during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.     

Assessment of the ocean circulation in the Azores region as predicted by a numerical model assimilating altimeter data from Topex/Poseidon and ERS-1 satellites

Two years of altimetric data from Topex/Poseidon (October 1992-September 1994) and ERS-1 (October 1992-December 1993) were assimilated into a numerical model of the North Atlantic. The results of these simulations are analysed in the Azores region to assess the performance of our model in this particular region. Maps of instantaneous dynamic topography and transports show that the model performs well in reproducing the velocities and transports of the Azores Front. Drifter data from the Semaphore experiment are also used to study the correlation between the drifter velocities and the corresponding model velocities. Some interesting oceanographic results are also obtained by examining the seasonal and interannual variability of the circulation and the inuence of bathymetry on the variability of the Azores Front. Thus, on the basis of our two year experiment, it is possible to confirm the circulation patterns proposed by previous studies regarding the seasonal variations in the origin of the Azores Current. Moreover, it is shown that the Azores Current is quite narrow in the first year of assimilation (1992±1993), but becomes much wider in the second year (1993±1994). The role of the bathymetry appears important in this area since the mesoscale activity is shown to be strongly related to the presence of topographic slopes. Finally, spectral analyses of sea-level changes over time and space are used to identify two types of wave already noticed in other studies: a wave with (300 km)^–1 wave number and (120 days)^–1 frequency, which is characteristic of mesoscale undulation, and a wave with (600 km)^–1 wave number and (250 days)^–1 frequency which probably corresponds to a Rossby wave generated in the east of the basin.     

Bathymetric control of surf zone retention on a rip-channelled beach

Simulations from a numerical model address the impact of nearshore morphology on surf zone retention on, open coast, rip-channelled beaches exposed to shore-normal waves. In the model, rip channels are regularly spaced alongshore with a given spacing λ. For a given reference case bathymetry (λ= 200 m), rip current circulations retain floating material at a hourly rate R of about 80 % which is in line with most existing field and laboratory studies in similar settings. The influence of a surf zone rip-channel morphology on surf zone retention is evaluated by a number of morphologic parameters. Results show that rip spacing is important. The ratio of the surf zone width X _s to rip spacing λ controls surf zone retention with R rapidly increasing with increasing X _s /λ up to a threshold of about 1 above which R levels off to become asymptotic to 100 %. The impact of the presence of a rip head bar is profound but nonlinear. The onset of wave breaking across the rip head bar drives a weak seaward located circulation providing major pathways for surface water exiting the surf zone compartment. Additional simulations suggest that alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry are important. Patterns in the wave field enforced by wave refraction and potentially wave breaking across offshore bathymetric anomalies can provide a conduit for transporting floating material out of the surf zone and into the inner shelf region. This has major implications for surf zone flushing by inner-bar rips on multiple-barred beaches and on beaches facing bathymetric anomalies on the inner shelf.     

A 4D variational assimilation scheme with partition method for nearshore wave models

This paper summarizes the development steps of a 4D variational assimilation scheme for nearshore wave models. A partition method is applied for adjusting both wave boundary conditions and wind fields. Nonstationary conditions are assimilated by providing defined correlations of model inputs in time. The scheme is implemented into the SWAN model. Twin experiments covering both stationary and nonstationary wave conditions are carried out to assess the adequacy of the proposed scheme. Stationary experiments are carried out considering separately windsea, swells, and mixed sea. Cost functions decline to less than 5% and RMS spectrum errors are reduced to less than 10%. The nonstationary experiment covers 1 day simulation under mixed wave conditions with assimilation windows of 3 h. RMS spectrum errors are reduced to less than 10% after 30 iterations in most assimilation windows. The results show that for spacially uniform model inputs, model accuracy is improved notably by the assimilation scheme throughout the computational domain. It is found that under wave conditions in which observed spectra can be well classified, the assimilation scheme is able to improve model results significantly.     

Evaluation of nearshore wave models in steep reef environments

To provide coastal engineers and scientists with a quantitative evaluation of nearshore numerical wave models in reef environments, we review and compare three commonly used models with detailed laboratory observations. These models are the following: (1) SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) (Zijlema et al. 2011), a phase-resolving nonlinear shallow-water wave model with added nonhydrostatic terms; (2) SWAN (Simulating WAve Nearshore) (Booij et al. 1999), a phase-averaged spectral wave model; and (3) XBeach (Roelvink et al. 2009), a coupled phase-averaged spectral wave model (applied to modeling sea-swell waves) and a nonlinear shallow-water model (applied to modeling infragravity waves). A quantitative assessment was made of each model’s ability to predict sea-swell (SS) wave height, infragravity (IG) wave height, wave spectra, and wave setup ( \( \overline{\eta} \) ) at five locations across the laboratory fringing reef profile of Demirbilek et al. (2007). Simulations were performed with the “recommended” empirical coefficients as documented for each model, and then the key wave-breaking parameter for each model (α in SWASH and γ in both SWAN and XBeach) was optimized to most accurately reproduce the observations. SWASH, SWAN, and XBeach were found to be capable of predicting SS wave height variations across the steep fringing reef profile with reasonable accuracy using the default coefficients. Nevertheless, tuning of the key wave-breaking parameter improved the accuracy of each model’s predictions. SWASH and XBeach were also able to predict IG wave height and spectral transformation. Although SWAN was capable of modeling the SS wave height, in its current form, it was not capable of modeling the spectral transformation into lower frequencies, as evident in the underprediction of the low-frequency waves.     

A preliminary study on Typhoon Tim induced resonance at Hualien Harbor,Taiwan

New analysis of wave records at Hualien Harbor during Typhoon Tim in 1994 reveals that for certain wave periods, the ratios of measured wave heights among three available wave stations inside the harbor are unique and roughly remain the same during the severest period of resonance. Since there is no incident infragravity wave (period from 80 to 220 s) information at offshore boundaries, these unique ratios become the surrogate of background truth for checking the performance of numerical simulations. A new simulation effort using a large (45 × 17 km) modeling domain, high-resolution (20 × 20 m) grid and the RIDE wave transformation model were conducted to simulate the observed responses. Comparison of the modeling results with the observations showed reasonable agreement. Additional model studies using ideal bathymetries with the same grid domain and resolution were also conducted to help interpret the prototype modeling results. The effects of two types of commonly used remedies were first examined by using the ideal bathymetry, and then, the prototype bathymetry. The results demonstrated that a single 1-km long, shore-parallel breakwater could significantly reduce the resonance. The results of using three shore-parallel breakwaters, however, are no better. More studies to identify the optimum design associated with the shore-parallel breakwater (location, length, etc.) are necessary for the optimum reduction of resonance at Hualien Harbor.     

Nearshore wave environments around a sandy cay on a platform reef,Torres Strait,Australia

Waves are the primary factor affecting reef-island morphology. This study examines spatial and temporal variations of wave characteristics in the nearshore around Warraber Island, a sandy cay on a platform reef in Torres Strait Australia, based on field measurements during the predominant southeasterly wind season. Water pressure was recorded simultaneously, and transformed to water surface wave spectra, at a location close to the reef edge and across the nearshore at different locations around the island. Wave environments off the reef were estimated based on wave characteristics measured at the reef-edge location and found to be primarily dominated by sea. Low and high wave-energy events were identified, based on wave energy level at the reef-edge location.     

Towards a data assimilation system for morphodynamic modeling: bathymetric data assimilation for wave property estimation

Data assimilation is mainly concerned with the proper management of uncertainties. The main objective of the present work is to implement and analyze a data assimilation technique capable of assimilating bathymetric data into a coupled flow, wave, and morphodynamic model. For the case presented here, wave significant height, wave direction of incidence, and wave peak period are being optimized based on bathymetric data taken from a twin experiment. An adjoint-free variational scheme is used. In this approach, a linear reduced order model (ROM) is constructed as an approximation of the full model. The ROM is an autoregressive model of order 1 (AR1) that preserves the parametrization. Since the ROM is linear, the construction of its adjoint is straightforward, making the implementation of 4D variational data assimilation effortless. The scheme is able to update the morphodynamic model satisfactorily despite the fact that the model shows nonlinear behavior even for very small perturbations of all three parameters. The size and direction of the perturbations necessary for constructing the ROM have a significant impact on the performance of the technique.     

Analysis on observing optimization for the wind-driven circulation by an adjoint approach

The adjoint approach is a variational method which is often applied to data assimilation widely in meteorology and oceanography. It is used for analyses on observing optimization for the wind-driven Sverdrup circulation. The adjoint system developed by Thacker and Long (1992), which is based on the GFDL Byran-Cox model, includes three components, i. e. the forward model, the adjoint model and the optimal algorithm. The GFDL Byran-Cox model was integrated for a long time driven by a batch of ideal wind stresses whose meridional component is set to null and zonal component is a sine function of latitudes in a rectangle box with six vertical levels and 2 by 2 degree horizontal resolution. The results are regarded as a "real" representative of the wind-driven Sverdrup circulation, from which the four dimensional fields are allowed to be sampled in several ways, such as sampling at the different levels or along the different vertical sections. To set the different samples, the fields of temperature, salinity and velocities function as the observational limit in the adjoint system respectively where the same initial condition is chosen for 4D VAR data assimilation. By examining the distance functions which measure the misfit between the circulation field from the control experiment of the adjoint system with a complete observation and those from data assimilation of adjoint approach in these sensitivity experiments respectively, observing optimizations for the wind-driven Sverdrup circulation will be suggested under a fixed observational cost.     

Air–water two-phase flow modeling of turbulent surf and swash zone wave motions

Wave breaking and wave runup/rundown have a major influence on nearshore hydrodynamics, morphodynamics and beach evolution. In the case of wave breaking, there is significant mixing of air and water at the wave crest, along with relatively high kinetic energy, so prediction of the free surface is complicated. Most hydrodynamic studies of surf and swash zone are derived from single-phase flow, in which the role of air is ignored. Two-phase flow modeling, consisting of both phases of water and air, may be a good alternative numerical modeling approach for simulating nearshore hydrodynamics and, consequently, sediment transport. A two-phase flow tool can compute more realistically the shape of the free surface, while the effects of air are accounted for. This paper used models based on two-dimensional, two-phase Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations, the volume-of-fluid surface capturing technique and different turbulence closure models, i.e., k–ε, k–ω and re-normalized group (RNG). Our numerical results were compared with the available experimental data. Comparison of the employed method with a model not utilizing a two-phase flow modeling demonstrates that including the air phase leads to improvement in simulation of wave characteristics, especially in the vicinity of the breaking point. The numerical results revealed that the RNG turbulence model yielded better predictions of nearshore zone hydrodynamics, although the k–ε model also gave satisfactory predictions. The model provides new insights for the wave, turbulence and means flow structure in the surf and swash zones.     

A multigrid methodology for assimilation of measurements into regional tidal models

This paper presents a rigorous, yet practical, method of multigrid data assimilation into regional structured-grid tidal models. The new inverse tidal nesting scheme, with nesting across multiple grids, is designed to provide a fit of the tidal dynamics to data in areas with highly complex bathymetry and coastline geometry. In these areas, computational constraints make it impractical to fully resolve local topographic and coastal features around all of the observation sites in a stand-alone computation. The proposed strategy consists of increasing the model resolution in multiple limited area domains around the observation locations where a representativeness error is detected in order to improve the representation of the measurements with respect to the dynamics. Multiple high-resolution nested domains are set up and data assimilation is carried out using these embedded nested computations. Every nested domain is coupled to the outer domain through the open boundary conditions (OBCs). Data inversion is carried out in a control space of the outer domain model. A level of generality is retained throughout the presentation with respect to the choice of the control space; however, a specific example of using the outer domain OBCs as the control space is provided, with other sensible choices discussed. In the forward scheme, the computations in the nested domains do not affect the solution in the outer domain. The subsequent inverse computations utilize the observation-minus-model residuals of the forward computations across these multiple nested domains in order to obtain the optimal values of parameters in the control space of the outer domain model. The inversion is carried out by propagating the uncertainty from the control space to model tidal fields at observation locations in the outer and in the nested domains using efficient low-rank error covariance representations. Subsequently, an analysis increment in the control space of the outer domain model is computed and the multigrid system is steered optimally towards observations while preserving a perfect dynamical balance. The method is illustrated using a real-world application in the context of the Philippines Strait Dynamics experiment.     

Surf zone characterization from Unmanned Aerial Vehicle imagery

We investigate the issues and methods for estimating nearshore bathymetry based on wave celerity measurements obtained using time series imagery from small unmanned aircraft systems (SUAS). In contrast to time series imagery from fixed cameras or from larger aircraft, SUAS data are usually short, gappy in time, and unsteady in aim in high frequency ways that are not reflected by the filtered navigation metadata. These issues were first investigated using fixed camera proxy data that have been intentionally degraded to mimic these problems. It has been found that records as short as 50 s or less can yield good bathymetry results. Gaps in records associated with inadvertent look-away during unsteady flight would normally prevent use of the required standard Fast Fourier Transform methods. However, we found that a full Fourier Transform could be implemented on the remaining valid record segments and was effective if at least 50% of total record length remained intact. Errors in image geo-navigation were stabilized based on fixed ground fiducials within a required land portion of the image. The elements of a future method that could remove this requirement were then outlined. Two test SUAS data runs were analyzed and compared to survey ground truth data. A 54-s data run at Eglin Air Force Base on the Gulf of Mexico yielded a good bathymetry product that compared well with survey data (standard deviation of 0.51 m in depths ranging from 0 to 4 m). A shorter (30.5 s) record from Silver Strand Beach (near Coronado) on the US west coast provided a good approximation of the surveyed bathymetry but was excessively deep offshore and had larger errors (1.19 m for true depths ranging from 0 to 6 m), consistent with the short record length. Seventy-three percent of the bathymetry estimates lay within 1 m of the truth for most of the nearshore.     

Optimal boundary conditions for ORCA-2 model

A 4D-Var data assimilation technique is applied to ORCA-2 configuration of the NEMO in order to identify the optimal parametrization of boundary conditions on the lateral boundaries as well as on the bottom and on the surface of the ocean. The influence of boundary conditions on the solution is analyzed both within and beyond the assimilation window. It is shown that the optimal bottom and surface boundary conditions allow us to better represent the jet streams, such as Gulf Stream and Kuroshio. Analyzing the reasons of the jets reinforcement, we notice that data assimilation has a major impact on parametrization of the bottom boundary conditions for u and v. Automatic generation of the tangent and adjoint codes is also discussed. Tapenade software is shown to be able to produce the adjoint code that can be used after a memory usage optimization.     

Human impacts on large benthic foraminifers near a densely populated area of Majuro Atoll, Marshall Islands

Human impacts on sand-producing, large benthic foraminifers were investigated on ocean reef flats at the northeast Majuro Atoll, Marshall Islands, along a human population gradient. The densities of dominant foraminifers Calcarina and Amphistegina declined with distance from densely populated islands. Macrophyte composition on ocean reef flats differed between locations near sparsely or densely populated islands. Nutrient concentrations in reef-flat seawater and groundwater were high near or on densely populated islands. δ¹⁵N values in macroalgal tissues indicated that macroalgae in nearshore lagoons assimilate wastewater-derived nitrogen, whereas those on nearshore ocean reef flats assimilate nitrogen from other sources. These results suggest that increases in the human population result in high nutrient loading in groundwater and possibly into nearshore waters. High nutrient inputs into ambient seawater may have both direct and indirect negative effects on sand-producing foraminifers through habitat changes and/or the collapse of algal symbiosis.     

Assimilation of SeaWiFS chlorophyll data into a 3D-coupled physical–biogeochemical model applied to a freshwater-influenced coastal zone

In order to predict eutrophication events in coastal areas we tested an assimilation scheme based on sequential data assimilation of SeaWiFS chlorophyll data into a coupled 3D physical–biogeochemical model. The area investigated is a semi-enclosed estuarine system (Gulf of Fos–North-western Mediterranean Sea) closely linked to the Rhone River delta. This system is subjected to episodic eutrophication caused by certain hydrodynamic conditions and intermittent nutrient inputs. The 3D hydrodynamic model Symphonie was coupled to the biogeochemical modelling platform Eco3M. Surface chlorophyll concentrations were derived from SeaWiFS data using the OC5 algorithm and were sequentially assimilated using a singular evolutive extended Kalman filter. Assimilation efficiency was evaluated through an independent in situ data set collected during a field survey that took place in May 2001 (ModelFos cruise). An original approach was used in constructing the state vector and the observation vector. By assimilating pseudo-salinity extracted from the model biogeochemical dynamics in both open sea and plume region were respected. We proved that substantial improvements were made in short-term forecasts by integrating such satellite-estimated chlorophyll maps. We showed that missing freshwater inputs could be corrected to a certain extent by the assimilation process. Simulated concentrations of surface chlorophyll and other basic components of the pelagic ecosystem such as nitrates were improved by assimilating surface chlorophyll maps. Finally we showed the coherent spatial behaviour of the filter over the whole modelled domain.     

Computation of ground motion amplification in Kolkata megacity (India) using finite-difference method for seismic microzonation

This paper presents the ground motion amplification scenario along with fundamental frequency (F ₀) of sedimentary deposit for the seismic microzonation of Kolkata City, situated on the world’s largest delta island with very soft soil deposit. A 4th order accurate SH-wave viscoelastic finite-difference algorithm is used for computation of response of 1D model for each borehole location. Different maps, such as for F ₀, amplification at F ₀, average spectral amplification (ASA) in the different frequency bandwidth of earthquake engineering interest are developed for a variety of end-users communities. The obtained ASA of the order of 3–6 at most of the borehole locations in a frequency range of 0.25–10.0 Hz reveals that Kolkata City may suffer severe damage even during a moderate earthquake. Further, unexpected severe damage to collapse of multi-storey buildings may occur in localities near Hoogly River and Salt Lake area due to double resonance effects during distant large earthquakes.     

Sensitivities of an adjoint, unstructured mesh, tidal model on the European Continental Shelf

Unstructured mesh models can resolve the model domain with a variable and very fine mesh resolution. Nevertheless, tuning the model setup is still required (for example because of parametrized sub-grid processes). Adjoint models are commonly used to calculate sensitivities of ocean models and optimize their parameters so that better agreement is achieved between model simulations and observations. One major obstacle in developing an adjoint model is the need to update the reverse code after each modification of the forward code, which is not always straightforward. Automatic differentiation is a tool to generate the adjoint model code without user input. So far this method has mainly been used for structured mesh ocean models. We present here an unstructured mesh, adjoint, tidal model using this technique, and discuss the sensitivities of the misfit between simulated and observed elevations with respect to open boundary values, the bottom friction coefficient and the bottom topography. The forward model simulates tides on the European Continental Shelf and we show that the tidal model dynamics in the adjoint simulations can be used to define regions, where parameters or mesh has to be optimized. We analyze the dependence of the sensitivities on the wave type and mesh resolution to specify whether the model misfit originates from physical or numerical model deficiencies. In the sensitivity patterns, it is possible to identify islands not resolved in the mesh. We propose to refine the mesh prior to the parameter optimization.     

On the dominance of pre-existing swells over wind seas along the west coast of India

Wave data collected off Goa along the west coast of India during February 1996-May 1997 has been subjected to spectral analysis, and swell and wind sea parameters have been estimated by separation frequency method. Dominance of swells and wind seas on monthly and seasonal basis has been estimated, and the analysis shows that swells dominate Goa coastal region not only during southwest monsoon (93%), but also during the post-monsoon (67%) season. Wind seas are dominant during the pre-monsoon season (51%). The mean wave periods (T_m) during southwest monsoon are generally above 5 s, whereas T_m is below 5 s during other seasons. Co-existence of multiple peaks (from NW and NE) was observed in the locally generated part of the wave spectrum, especially during the post-monsoon season. NCEP reanalysis winds have been used to analyse active fetch available in the Indian Ocean, from where the predominant swells propagate to the west coast of India. A numerical model was set up to simulate waves in the Indian Ocean using flexible mesh bathymetry. The correlation coefficients between measured and modelled significant wave heights and mean wave periods are 0.96 and 0.85, respectively. Numerical simulations reproduced the swell characteristics in the Indian Ocean, and from the model results potential swell generation areas are identified. The characteristics of swells associated with tropical storms that prevail off Goa during 1996 have also been analysed.