Approximate Stream Function wavemaker theory for highly non-linear waves in wave flumes

An approximate Stream Function wavemaker theory for highly non-linear regular waves in flumes is presented. This theory is based on an ad hoc unified wave-generation method that combines linear fully dispersive wavemaker theory and wave generation for non-linear shallow water waves. This is done by applying a dispersion correction to the paddle position obtained for non-linear long waves. The method is validated by a number of wave flume experiments while comparing with results of linear wavemaker theory, second-order wavemaker theory and Cnoidal wavemaker theory within its range of application.     

Second-order wavemaker theory for multidirectional waves

The present paper develops the complete second-order wavemaker theory for the generation of multidirectional waves in a semi-infinite basin. The theory includes superharmonics and subharmonics and is valid for a rotational as well as a translatory serpent-type wave-board motion. The primary goal is to obtain the second-order motion of the wave paddles required to get a prescribed multidirectional irregular wave field correct to second order, i.e. to suppress spurious free-wave generation. The wavemaker theory is a 3D extension of the full second-order wavemaker theory for wave flumes by Schäffer (1996).     

近岸波浪引起的水流及长波研究进展

从现场观测、理论分析和数值计算、试验室研究三个方面回顾了近岸波浪引起水流以及长波的研究进展，并对今后着重研究的几个方向提出看法。     

Extreme wave run-up and pressure on a vertical seawall

The performance of coastal vertical seawalls in extreme weather events is studied numerically, aiming to provide guidance in designing and reassessing coastal structures with vertical wall. The extreme wave run-up and the pressure on the vertical seawall are investigated extensively. A time-domain higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM) is coupled with a mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian technique as a time marching technique. Focused wave groups are generated by a piston wave-maker in the numerical wave tank using a wave focusing technique for accurately reproducing extreme sea states. An acceleration-potential scheme is used to calculate the transient wave loads. Comparisons with experimental data show that the extended numerical model is able to accurately predict extreme wave run-ups and pressures on a vertical seawall. The effects of the wave spectrum bandwidth, the wall position and the wave nonlinearity on the wave run-up and the maximum wave load on the vertical seawall are investigated by doing parametric studies.     

三维二阶水波绕射问题的有限元时域计算

本文用有限元法配合时步处理来求解三维非线性水波的绕射问题,自由表面条件和物面条件都满足到二阶,采用人工阻尼区来吸收反射波,流场内的速度势通过求解有限元方程得到。对垂直圆柱体的绕射问题进行了计算,得到了自由表面波高时间历程和圆柱所受到的波浪力,计算结果和有关文献的理论计算结果进行了比较。     

Comparison of linear and nonlinear extreme wave statistics

An extremely large (“freak”) wave is a typical though rare phenomenon observed in the sea. Special theories (for example, the modulation instability theory) were developed to explain mechanics and appearance of freak waves as a result of nonlinear wave-wave interactions. In this paper, it is demonstrated that the freak wave appearance can be also explained by superposition of linear modes with the realistic spectrum. The integral probability of trough-to-crest waves is calculated by two methods: the first one is based on the results of the numerical simulation of a wave field evolution performed with one-dimensional and two-dimensional nonlinear models. The second method is based on calculation of the same probability over the ensembles of wave fields constructed as a superposition of linear waves with random phases and the spectrum similar to that used in the nonlinear simulations. It is shown that the integral probabilities for nonlinear and linear cases are of the same order of values     

Variations in wave direction estimated using first and second order Fourier coefficients

In most design applications such as alignment of the berthing structure and breakwater alignment, it becomes necessary to determine the direction of design wave. There are two different approaches to determine wave direction. One involves the use of first order Fourier coefficients (mean wave direction) while the other uses second order Fourier coefficients (principal wave direction). Both the average wave direction over the entire frequency range (0.03–0.58 Hz) and the direction corresponding to the peak frequency are used in practice. In the present study, comparison is made on wave directions estimated based on first and second order Fourier coefficients using data collected at four locations in the west and east coasts of India. Study shows that at all locations, the mean and principal wave directions for frequencies ranging from 0.07 to 0.25 Hz (±0.5 times peak frequency) co-vary with a correlation coefficient of 0.99 but at lower and higher frequencies, difference between the parameters is large. Average difference between the mean wave direction at peak frequency and the average over the frequency related to spectral energy more than 20% of maximum value is less, around 13°. Study shows that average difference in the sea and swell directions is around 39°.     

Comparison of wave load effects on a TLP wind turbine by using computational fluid dynamics and potential flow theory approaches

Tension Leg Platform (TLP) is one of the concepts which shows promising results during initial studies to carry floating wind turbines. One of the concerns regarding tension leg platform wind turbines (TLPWTs) is the high natural frequencies of the structure that may be excited by nonlinear waves loads. Since Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) models are capable of capturing nonlinear wave loads, they can lead to better insight about this concern. In the current study, a CFD model based on immersed boundary method, in combination with a two-body structural model of TLPWT is developed to study wave induced responses of TLPWT in deep water. The results are compared with the results of a potential flow theory-finite element software, SIMO-RIFLEX (SR). First, the CFD based model is described and the potential flow theory based model is briefly introduced. Then, a grid sensitivity study is performed and free decay tests are simulated to determine the natural frequencies of different motion modes of the TLPWT. The responses of the TLPWT to regular waves are studied, and the effects of wave height are investigated. For the studied wave heights which vary from small to medium amplitude (wave height over wavelength less than 0.071), the results predicted by the CFD based model are generally in good agreement with the potential flow theory based model. The only considerable difference is the TLPWT mean surge motion which is predicted higher by the CFD model, possibly because of considering the nonlinear effects of the waves loads and applying these loads at the TLPWT instantaneous position in the CFD model. This difference does not considerably affect the important TLPWT design driving parameters such as tendons forces and tower base moment, since it only affects the mean dynamic position of TLPWT. In the current study, the incoming wave frequency is set such that third-harmonic wave frequency coincides with the first tower bending mode frequency. However, for the studied wave conditions a significant excitation of tower natural frequency is not observed. The high stiffness of tendons which results in linear pitch motion of TLPWT hull (less than 0.02 degrees) and tower (less than 0.25 degrees) can explain the limited excitement of the tower first bending mode. The good agreement between CFD and potential flow theory based results for small and medium amplitude waves gives confidence to the proposed CFD based model to be further used for hydrodynamic analysis of floating wind turbines in extreme ocean conditions.