Surface gravity wave interaction with elastic bottom

In the present paper, a hydroelastic model is developed to deal with surface gravity wave interaction with an elastic bed based on the small amplitude water wave theory and plate deflection in finite water depth. The elastic bottom bed is modelled as a thin elastic plate and is based on the Euler-Bernoulli beam equation. The wave characteristics in the presence of the elastic bed is analyzed in both the cases of deep and shallow water waves. Further, the linearized long wave equation is generalized to include bottom flexibility. A generalized expansion formula for the velocity potential is derived to deal with the boundary value problems associated with surface gravity waves having an elastic bed. The utility of the expansion formula is illustrated by demonstrating specific physical problems which will play significant role in the analysis of wave structure interaction problems. Behavior of the wave spectra are discussed in the case of closed basin having a free surface and an elastic bottom topography.     

Calculating bottom orbital velocity beneath waves

Methods are presented for calculating directly from a known wave height, period and water depth the orbital velocity produced at the sea bed by surface waves. Two curves are sufficient to allow the root-mean-square bottom orbital velocity to be calculated for wave-spectra having any one of the JONSWAP, Pierson-Moskowitz, Bretschneider, ISSC or ITTC forms. A third curve covers the monochromatic case. Other curves allow the ratio of the peak periods of bottom orbital velocity and surface elevation to be calculated for the above five spectral forms. Values are deduced for the height and period of the monochromatic wave which most closely matches the bottom orbital velocity obtained from a full spectral representation, optimised over water depths ranging from deep water to breaking.     

A three-dimensional theory for the development and migration of deep sea sedimentary waves

A perturbation model is presented for a velocity field of a bottom current flowing over a sinusoidal topography or an obstacle. The model extends existing theory by taking into account the three-dimensional Coriolis vector and an initial horizontal velocity vector at any orientation. One possible mechanism of the development of sedimentary waves in the vicinity of an obstacle by an arbitrarily oriented initial horizontal current is analyzed in detail. Space-stationary fluid particle oscillations are initiated on the downstream side of an obstacle, which can result in sedimentary waves. The model shows that their wavelength depends on latitude, water depth, obstacle width and orientation as well as the initial current direction and intensity. The model defines intervals for current velocities normal to the wave crest, for which the sedimentary waves grow (or are destroyed) or migrate in a certain direction. Information derived from bathymetric and seismic surveys, such as wavelength, height, orientation and migration direction of mudwaves, can be used to calculate the velocity component across the wave crest and to estimate the current direction, as is demonstrated for an example from the Argentine Basin (Project MUDWAVES, Site 5).     

Effect of higher-order bottom variation terms on the refraction of water waves in the extended mild-slope equations

This study investigates how the refraction of water waves is affected by the higher-order bottom effect terms proportional to the square of bottom slope and to the bottom curvature in the extended mild-slope equations. Numerical analyses are performed on two cases of waves propagating over a circular shoal and over a circular hollow. Numerical results are analyzed using the eikonal equation derived from the wave equations and the wave ray tracing technique. It is found that the higher-order bottom effect terms change the wavelength and, in turn, change the refraction of waves over a variable depth. In the case of waves over a circular shoal, the higher-order bottom effects increase the wavelength along the rim of shoal more than near the center of shoal, and intensify the degree of wave refraction. However, the discontinuity of higher-order bottom effects along the rim of shoal disperses the foci of wave rays. As a result, the amplification of wave energy behind the shoal is reduced. Conversely, in the case of waves over a circular hollow, the higher-order bottom effects decrease the wavelength near the center of the hollow in comparison with the case of neglecting higher-order bottom effects. Consequently, the degree of wave refraction is decreased, and the spreading of wave energy behind the hollow is reduced.     

On the response of a Coulomb‐damped poroelastic bed to water waves

Abstract

The problem of forced vibration of a slightly inelastic porous bed by water waves is treated analytically on the basis of a linearized expression of the nonlinear damping term for the grain‐to‐grain friction in bed soils and the linear theory by Biot (1962a [Jour. Appl. Physics, 33:1482–1498]) on the elastic wave propagation in porous media. A dispersion relation of water waves is obtained as a function of wave frequency, water depth, permeability, Poisson's ratio, rigidity, and specific loss of bed soil. Three types of elastic waves are induced in a bed by water waves: a shear wave and a compressional wave in the skeletal frame of soil, and a compressional wave in the pore fluid. The compressional wave, due to the motion of the pore fluid relative to the skeletal frame of soil, is highly damped by the viscosity of pore fluid and only a short range effect near the boundaries of discontinuity, such as a sea‐seabed interface. The seabed response to water waves is characterized by the two Mach numbers, i.e., the ratio of water‐wave speed to shear‐wave speed in soil and the ratio of water‐wave speed to compressional‐wave speed in soil. Most of the water‐wave propagation problems fall into the subsonic flow condition, where elastic waves in the bed travel faster than water waves.

For sandy beds, generally the speeds of compressional and shear waves are much higher than the phase velocity of the water wave. For this case, the solution of the Coulomb‐damped poroelastic bed response presented in this paper approaches the solution of the massless poroelastic bed response in Yamamoto et al. (1978 [Jour. Fluid Mech., 87(1): 193–206]). The damping of water waves due to internal grain‐to‐grain friction is equally or more significant than the damping due to percolation in sand beds.

For clay beds, the speed of the shear wave in soil becomes low and comparable to the phase speed of the water wave. The bed motion for this case is considerably amplified due to the near‐resonance vibration of shear mode of bed vibration. The water wavelength on a clay bed is significantly shortened compared to the water wavelength over a rigid bed. The water wave damping due to internal grain‐to‐grain friction in soil becomes much larger compared to the water wave damping due to percolation in clay beds. Long water waves over a soft clayey bed attenuate within several wavelengths of travel distance.     

Experimental Study of Wave Breaking on Gentle Slope

—An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentleslope of 1:200.In the experiment,asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wavebreaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regu-lar waves on very mild slopes.The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influ-ence of bottom slope i,relative water depth d/L_0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regularwaves.The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, whilethe coefficient A should be 0.15.The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wavetheory is 0.74.Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after break-ing and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves.     

浮冰在规则波和双色波下的运动特性研究

为研究浮冰在波浪下的运动特性,以单个聚氯乙烯（PVC）塑料圆板模拟浮冰,进行了一系列波浪试验研究。在规则波试验基础上,同时研究了双色波条件下的浮冰运动特性。结果显示：规则波条件下浮冰运动幅频响应算子首先随无量纲波长的增大而增大,当无量纲波长大于4.0后,运动幅频响应算子随无量纲波长的变化不明显,且趋于一定值;在双色波条件下,对应频率组成成分的浮冰运动幅频响应算子与规则波条件下随波长的变化规律一致。根据部分规则波试验结果提出预测浮冰慢漂速度的经验公式,并用已有的试验和余下的规则波与双色波试验结果进行验证。结果表明,经验公式对规则波和双色波条件下的浮冰慢漂速度的误差在20%以内,预测结果吻合较好。     

Interaction of current and flexural gravity waves

The interaction between current and flexural gravity waves generated due to a floating elastic plate is analyzed in two dimensions under the assumptions of linearized theory. For plane flexural gravity waves, explicit expressions for the water particle dynamics and trajectory are derived. The effect of current on the wavelength, phase velocity and group velocity of the flexural gravity waves is analyzed. Variations in wavelength and wave height due to the changes in current speed and direction are analyzed. Effects of structural rigidity and water depth on wavelength are discussed in brief. Simple numerical computations are performed and presented graphically to explain most of the theoretical findings in a lucid manner.     

Dynamic pressure distribution on a cylinder due to wave diffraction

The experimental investigations on the dynamic pressure distribution around a large vertical cylinder resting on a flume bed and piercing the free surface subjected to regular waves have been carried out in a 4-m wide wave flume in a constant water depth of 2.5 m at Ocean Engineering Centre, Indian Institute of Technology, Madras, India. The cylinder of diameter 400 mm was fixed with diaphragm type pressure transducers at eight different locations below the still water level along with one at the still water level. In addition to this, to study the effect of nonlinearity, one pressure transducer was located above the still water level. The experimental results pertaining to mostly deep water conditions are compared with MacCamy and Fuchs theory and the agreement is found to be good. In order to account for the effects of nonlinearities the above said theory has been modified the results of which are found to be in better agreement.     

Standing wave pressures due to regular and random waves on a vertical wall

The standing wave pressures due to laboratory-generated regular and random waves exerted on a vertical wall were measured in a wave flume. The standing wave pressures were measured at four relative depths of submergence on the test model. The regular wave test conditions ranged from intermediate to deep water conditions. The measured pressures due to regular waves were compared with results obtained using linear theory and third-order solution. In the case of random wave tests, the dynamic pressures due to the time histories of water surface elevation following the spectral characteristics of Pierson-Moskowitz and Bretschneider spectra were measured. These pressures are compared with simulated pressures obtained through the linear filter technique of Reid. The variation of pressure spectra along the depth are presented. In addition, comparison of spectral parameters, i.e. zeroth moment, spectral width parameter and narrowness parameter of measured and simulated pressure spectra, are reported and discussed. The behaviour of the coherence function between the wave elevation on the wall and the corresponding pressures is also discussed.     

The influence of the bottom contour on the deformed state of the ice cover due to the motion of the submarine

The authors have previously determined that the effectiveness and failure pattern of the ice cover caused by flexural-gravity waves generated by a submerged body motion near the bottom ice can greatly depend on the depth of the water area. In its turn, the presence of a ledge on the ice surface may affect a wave propagation pattern. This paper presents an experimental study of the bottom contour influence on the deflection and length of flexural-gravity waves. The authors describe a numerical model for the analysis of the deformed state of ice caused by hydrodynamic loads due to a submarine motion, taking into account the bottom contour. The experiments are carried out in the ice tank. The results of calculations and experiments are compared.     

Theoretical Analysis of Harbor Resonance in Harbor with An Exponential Bottom Profile

The general features of oscillations within a rectangular harbor of exponential bottom are investigated analytically. Based on the linear shallow water approximation, analytical solutions for longitudinal oscillations induced by the incident perpendicular wave are obtained by the method of matched asymptotics. The analytic results show that the resonant frequencies are shifted to larger values as the water depth increases and the oscillation amplitudes are enhanced due to the shoaling effect. Owing to the refraction effect, there could be several transverse oscillation modes existing in when the width of the harbor is on the order of the oscillation wavelength. These transverse oscillations are similar to standing edge waves, and there are m node lines in the longshore direction and n node lines running in the offshore direction corresponding to mode (n, m). Furthermore, the transverse eigen frequency is not only related to the width of the harbor, but also to the boundary condition at the backwall and the bottom shape.     

Experimental determination of wavelengths in the presence of a mean current

This paper describes a simple method for determining the wavelength of small amplitude waves under laboratory conditions where reflected wave components are present both with and without a mean current flow superimposed. It assumes a locally horizontal bed but requires no a priori assumption concerning the form of the dispersion relation with a coexisting current. Synchronous measurements of the water surface recorded along any straight line are analysed to yield Fourier coefficients at each location. It is then shown that for all practical conditions excluding a perfect standing wave, the average rate of change of wave phase in the chosen direction can be related directly to the component of incident wave number in that direction, irrespective of reflection coefficient or relative current strength. The technique has been applied to regular and bichromatic waves in a flume with an absorbing wave generator, and can also be applied in 3-D wave basins where waves and currents intersect at arbitrary angles. In combined wave–current experiments, by assuming the linear dispersion relation, it is also possible to estimate the effective current velocity.     

Coastal Bathymetric Studies from Space Imagery

Abstract

Studies of coastal bathymetry are important where littoral drift has implications on the planning of fishing and dredging operations. Also, there is a possibility of finding hitherto unknown bottom features in relatively less explored regions of the shallow seas around the globe. High resolution satellite imagery over oceans provides us with quantitative methods for estimating depth in shallow parts of the seas. One of the methods is the analysis of the refraction of coastal gravity waves observed on satellite imagery. A panchromatic image acquired by SPOT with 10 m resolution on March 22, 1986, over Bay of Bengal near Madras Coast, was used for this analysis. The image was enhanced to clearly bring out the wave structure seen on the sea surface. The image was then superimposed with a 1 km × 1 km grid. For each grid cell, 64 × 64 pixels at the center were considered for getting a Fast Fourier Transform to determine the wave spectrum and the dominant wavelength present there. The classical theory of gravity waves was used to relate the shallow water wavelengths obtained as above with the corresponding wavelengths in the deep water. The deep‐water wavelength was estimated to be 110 m using the known chart depths at a set of control points. The resulting depth estimates, when compared with standard bathymetric charts, were found, in general, to be well in agreement up to a depth of 30 m in the sea, with an r.m.s. error of 2.6 meters. The method seems to be very useful for remotely sensed bathymetric work. However, further research is required to reduce the error margin and operationalize the method.     

Wave-induced Benthic Velocity Variations in Shallow Waters

Waves propagating from deep water into shallow coastal areas produce oscillatory currents near the sea bottom. The magnitude of these currents depend upon the period and amplitude of the incoming waves, and the dissipation mechanism such as wave breaking and bottom friction. Field experiments in a gently shoaling bay, i.e. Cleveland Bay, Northern Australia, showed that there is a broad band of water at around 6 m depth, where the benthic surge velocities are maximum. Both further inshore and offshore, the bottom velocities were less than at 6 m depth, contrary to the normal expectation that the velocities should increase as the water becomes shallower. A new and computationally efficient wave model was developed and was able to reproduce experimental results for waves above 50 cm wave height, but not for small waves (wave height about 30 cm). One implication of this higher band of benthic surge velocities may be to produce high water turbidities in this region. Turbidity data from Cleveland Bay is consistent with this hypothesis.     

The vertical structure of combined wave–current flow

A simple numerical model, based on the Reynolds stress equations and k–ε turbulence closure scheme, is developed for the coastal wave and current bottom boundary layer. The current friction velocity is introduced to account for the effect of currents on waves. The implicit Crank–Nicolson finite difference method discretizes the governing equations. Vertical changing step grids with the constant ratio for two adjacent spatial steps are used together with the equal time steps in the modeling. Vertical profiles of mean current velocity and wave velocity amplitude are obtained. These modeled results are compared with the laboratory experimental data of Van Doorn [1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands; 1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands]. It has been shown that modeled and observed (Van Doorn, T., 1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands; 1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands) mean velocity profiles within the wave and current bottom boundary layer are in better agreement than outside. Modeled and observed (Van Doorn, T., 1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands) wave velocity amplitude profiles within the wave and current bottom boundary layer are in better agreement than outside. Modeled wave velocity amplitudes are in good agreement with the laboratory experimental data of Van Doorn [1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands].     

Oblique wave interaction with a floating structure near a wall with stepped bottom

Diffraction of obliquely incident waves by a floating structure near a wall with step-type bottom topography is investigated under the three-dimensional small amplitude wave theory. Full solution of the problem under the potential flow approach is obtained by the matched eigenfunction expansion method. The wave-induced forces on the structure and on the wall, the reflection and transmission characteristics and the wave elevations in the free surface regions are studied for different incident wave angles, water depth ratios and dimension of the structure and the distance of the wall from the center of the structure. The problem is reformulated under shallow water approximations and results are compared with the finite depth results.     

Short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents obtained through up-/downwelling

Small amplitude water waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current are investigated. The non-uniform current is obtained by up- or downwelling through the horizontal bed. A new locally valid velocity potential correct to the second order is derived describing the combined wave–current motion. From this solution expressions for the local evolution of the wave amplitude and the wave number are extracted. These expressions are compared with the results found using the principle of wave action conservation and the linear dispersion relation, and good agreement is found at small distances compared to the wavelength. Unlike earlier works there is no restriction to deep water. The results valid for deep water are found as a special case of the general solution and agree with the solution found by Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and Stewart, R.W. (1961) The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 10(4), 529–549. Furthermore, it is shown that the principle of wave action conservation in fact holds for waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current maintained by up-/downwelling also on finite depth.     

Observation and measurement of the bottom boundary layer flow in the prebreaking zone of shoaling waves

In this paper, the characteristics of the bottom boundary layer flow induced by nonlinear, asymmetric shoaling waves, propagating over a smooth bed of 1/15 uniform slope, is experimentally investigated. Flow visualization technique with thin-layered fluorescent dye was first used to observe the variation of the flow structure, and a laser Doppler velocimeter was then employed to measure the horizontal velocity, U.The bottom boundary layer flow is found to be laminar except within a small region near the breaking point. The vertical distribution of the phase-averaged velocity U at each phase is non-uniform, which is directly affected by the mean velocity, . The magnitude of increases from zero at the bottom to a local positive maximum at about z/δ2.02.5 (where z is the height above the sloping bottom and δ is the Stokes layer thickness), then decreases gradually to zero at z/δ6.07.0 approximately, and finally becomes negative as z/δ increases further. Moreover, as waves propagate towards shallower water, the rate of increase in the maximum onshore oscillating velocity component is greater than that of the offshore counterpart except near the breaking point. The free stream velocities in the profiles of the maximum onshore and offshore oscillating velocity components, and are found to appear at z/δ≥6.0. This implies that, if the Stokes layer thickness is used as a length scale, the non-dimensionalized boundary layer thickness remains constant in the pre-breaking zone. Although is greater than and the asymmetry of the maximum free stream velocities (i.e. ) increases with decrease of water depth, a universal similar profile can be established by plotting z/δ versus ( ) or ( ). The final non-dimensional profile is symmetric and unique for the distributions of the maximum onshore and offshore oscillating velocity components within the bottom boundary layer, which are induced by nonlinear, asymmetric shoaling waves crossing the pre-breaking zone.     

基于潮间带现场数据的底部切应力算法对比

底部切应力作为水动力和泥沙输移模型中的关键参数,对底床泥沙起动、侵蚀淤积速率的研究十分重要.目前基于现场实测流速数据计算底部切应力的理论方法有6种:LP-mean法、LP-max法、TKE法、TKE W法、RS法和ID法,这些方法都有其特定的适用条件.河口海岸浅水区域水流和波浪作用复杂,遴选合适的方法计算底部切应力非常...