波流耦合作用下渤海及北黄海风暴潮增水及海浪过程的数值模拟

本文基于三维波流耦合FVCOM-SWAVE数值模式,采用Jelesnianski参数化风场与再分析数据集ECMWF风场数据叠加而成的合成风场作为外力驱动力,模拟了1818号"温比亚"台风引起北黄海及渤海海域风暴潮增减水及波浪的生长与消减过程,进而分析该海域在"温比亚"台风作用下波浪对流速垂向分布的影响。研究结果表明:合成风场得到的风速最大值及出现时刻与实测数据符合较好,合成风场较为合理,能够为模拟波流耦合机制下海域水动力变化提供准确的风场条件;几个测站的风暴潮增水模拟结果与实测数据较为吻合,FVCOM-SWAVE耦合系统合理地再现了"温比亚"台风在黄渤海引发的风暴潮增水以及台风浪过程。此外,计算结果显示"温比亚"期间黄渤海海域最大有效波高分布于台风中心外围,且位于台风前进方向上,波浪最大有效波高值与台风强度有关;在台风过境期间,波流相互作用对近岸海域流速的垂向分布具有一定影响,考虑波流相互作用可有效提高台风风暴潮数值模拟精度。研究结果对台风灾害预报、防灾减灾及港口建筑选址具有一定的参考意义。     

Estimation of mean and extreme waves in the East China Seas

Accurately estimating the mean and extreme wave statistics and better understanding their directional and seasonal variations are of great importance in the planning and designing of ocean and coastal engineering works. Due to the lack of long-term wave measurement data, the analysis of extreme waves is often based on the numerical wave hind-casting results. In this study, the wave climate in the East China Seas (including the Bohai Sea, the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea) for the past 35 years (1979–2013) is hind-casted using a third generation wave model – WAMC4 (Cycle 4 version of WAM model). Two sets of reanalysis wind data from NCEP (National Centers for Environmental Prediction, USA) and ECMWF (European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts) are used to drive the wave model to generate the long-term wave climate. The hind-casted waves are then analysed to study the mean and extreme wave statistics in the study area. The results show that the mean wave heights decrease from south to north and from sea to land in general. The extreme wave heights with return periods of 50 and 100 years in the summer and autumn seasons are significantly higher than those in the other two seasons, mainly due to the effect of typhoon events. The mean wave heights in the winter season have the highest values, mainly due to the effect of winter monsoon winds. The comparison of extreme wave statistics from both wind fields with the field measurements at several nearshore wave observation stations shows that the extreme waves generated by the ECMWF winds are better than those generated by the NCEP winds. The comparison also shows the extreme waves in deep waters are better reproduced than those in shallow waters, which is partly attributed to the limitations of the wave model used. The results presented in this paper provide useful insight into the wave climate in the area of the East China Seas, as well as the effect of wind data resolution on the simulation of long-term waves.     

Evaluation of a high-resolution wave hindcast model SWAN for the West Mediterranean basin

This study aims to present an evaluation and implementation of a high-resolution SWAN wind wave hindcast model forced by the CFSR wind fields in the west Mediterranean basin, taking into account the recent developments in wave modelling as the new source terms package ST6. For this purpose, the SWAN model was calibrated based on one-year wave observations of Azeffoune buoy (Algerian coast) and validated against eleven wave buoys measurements through the West Mediterranean basin. For the calibration process, we focused on the whitecapping dissipation coefficient C_ds and on the exponential wind wave growth and whitecapping dissipation source terms. The statistical error analysis of the calibration results led to conclude that the SWAN model calibration corrected the underestimation of the significant wave height hindcasts in the default mode and improved its accuracy in the West Mediterranean basin. The exponential wind wave growth of Komen et al (1984) and the whitecapping dissipation source terms of Janssen (1991) with C_ds = 1.0 have been thus recommended for the western Mediterranean basin. The comparison of the simulation results obtained using this calibrated parameters against eleven measurement buoys showed a high performance of the calibrated SWAN model with an average scatter index of 30% for the significant wave heights and 19% for the mean wave period. This calibrated SWAN model will constitute a practical wave hindcast model with high spatial resolution (˜3 km) and high accuracy in the Algerian basin, which will allow us to proceed to a finer mesh size using the SWAN nested grid system in this area.     

9711号台风对日照近海悬沙浓度影响的数值模拟

运用改进的椭圆形风场模型,模拟了9711号台风所经地区风场、气压场的变化过程;将椭圆形风场模型结果结合SWAN波浪模型,计算9711台风过程的波要素;运用COHERENS三维水动力模式,对渤、黄海主要的4个潮分量进行了调和分析,建立渤、黄海天文潮预报模型,并采用三级嵌套模型计算并验证分析了日照近海的水文动力环境;运用基于COHERENS发展的水动力悬沙模型COHERENS-SED,计算分析了9711天气过程、仅考虑潮流作用以及累年平均波要素和一般天气情况(累年平均风场、标准大气压)下的悬沙数值模拟.结果表明:考虑潮流、一般波浪和天气因素共同作用下的水体含沙浓度比仅考虑潮流作用下的水体含沙浓度提高40%～100%的幅度;考虑9711号天气过程以及产生的台风浪作用下的水体含沙浓度比一般波浪和天气因素作用下的水体含沙浓度提高约4倍的幅度.     

Validation of the WAMC4 wave model for the Black Sea

The present paper describes the set-up and application of the third-generation wave model — WAM Cycle 4 to the Black Sea. The wind fields are calculated by a regional atmosphere model (REMO), which was driven with the conditions from the global NCEP re-analysis project. These atmospheric data are used to force the state-of-the-art WAM model. The validation is done by comparison of wave model output against directional buoy measurements registered at three deep-water locations and wave gauge data taken at a point in intermediate depth near the Black Sea coast. The results reveal that agreement between modeled and measured data is satisfactory and the quality of the simulations increases under more energetic and severer wind and wave conditions. Following the validation, a 41-year wave hindcast was implemented spanning the period 1958–1998.     

基于WRF-SWAN耦合模式的台风“威马逊”波浪场数值模拟

获取高分辨率的风场数据和气压场数据是精确模拟台风浪的基础,采用经验公式构建台风风场和气压场对海浪模式进行驱动,无法反映台风影响下海气动力过程,难以提供高精度的风场、气压场数据。本文基于中尺度大气模式WRF(Weather Research and Forecasting model)和第三代海浪模式SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore model),构建了南中国海地区大气—海浪实时双向耦合模式,针对超强台风"威马逊"进行数值模拟。将数值模拟结果与现场观测结果及卫星高度计观测结果进行对比验证,验证结果表明,本文建立的WRF-SWAN耦合模式在对台风"威马逊"影响下的南中国海台风浪的模拟中展现出较高的模拟精度,揭示了台风风场分布和台风浪分布在空间上的"右偏性"不对称分布特征及其形成机制。基于WRF和SWAN建立的大气-海浪实时双向耦合模式能够准确模拟台风动力过程以及台风浪的时空分布特征,可以推广用于南中国海地区台风浪的模拟分析。     

Anisotropy of wind and wave regimes in the Baltic proper

The directional distribution of moderate and strong winds in the Baltic Sea region is shown to be strongly anisotropic. The dominating wind direction is south-west and a secondary peak corresponds to north winds. North-west storms are relatively infrequent and north-east storms are extremely rare. Angular distribution of extreme wind speed also has a two-peaked shape with maxima corresponding to south-west and north winds, and a deep minimum for easterly winds. The primary properties of the anisotropy such as prevailing winds, frequency of their occurrence, directional distribution of mean and maximum wind speeds coincide on both sides of the Baltic proper. The specific wind regime penetrates neither into the mainland nor into the Gulf of Finland or the Gulf of Riga.Properties of the saturated wave field in the neighbourhood of proposed sites of the Saaremaa (Ösel) deep harbour are analysed on the basis of the wave model WAM forced by steady winds. The directional distribution of wave heights in typical and extreme storms is highly anisotropic. Remarkable wave height anomalies may occur in the neighbourhood of the harbour sites.     

Sensitivity of wave model predictions to wind fields in the Western Mediterranean sea

The paper compares the wave hindcast in the Western Mediterranean sea using the reanalysis wind fields from HIPOCAS and ERA-40 from ECMWF for November 2001. The study has concentrated on the Mediterranean coast of Spain where there are known difficulties with the wind and wave modelling. Two winter storms have been compared. The main differences between the significant wave heights using the ERA-40 reanalysis (ECMWF) and HIPOCAS reanalysis winds were observed to increase when moving southwards in the geographical domain at the offshore locations. Systematic negative biases of Hs were obtained with the ERA-40 data at all the coastal locations analyzed, whereas positive biases are typical for the HIPOCAS reanalysis. For offshore and coastal locations when using the ERA-40 data the Hs biases increased moving to South, while this pattern was not so clear for the HIPOCAS data. The inconsistencies in the comparisons of modelled waves against measurements seem to be associated with the quality of the wind fields.     

Assessment of wind-forcing impact on a global wind-wave model using the TOPEX altimeter

The study presents assessment of an operational wave model (Wavewatch III), focusing upon the model sensitivity to wind-forcing products. Four wind fields are used to drive the model, including the NCEP/NCAR reanalysis and three other products that assimilate various satellite wind measurements having high spatial resolution, including the QuikSCAT scatterometer. Three wave field statistics: significant wave height, mean zero-crossing wave period, and mean square slope are compared with collocated TOPEX altimeter derivatives to gauge the relative skill of differing wind-forced model runs, as well as to demonstrate an extended use of the altimeter beyond simply supplying wave height for wave model validation and assimilation. Results suggest that model output is critically sensitive to choice of the wind field product. Higher spatial resolution in the wind fields does lead to improved agreement for the higher-order wave statistics.     

Wind waves in the coastal zone of the southern crimea: Assessment of simulation quality based on in situ measurements

The study verifies the Black Sea wave model using field data obtained from the Katsiveli research platform. The WAM and mesoscale MM5 and WRF atmospheric models, which are used to calculate the wind field for the wave model, were recently adjusted to the Black Sea region at the Marine Hydrophysical Institute. The results of the work are presented as characteristics of the simulation quality used in world practice in other regions. The scatter index for a significant wave height is 70% in summer and 50% in winter. The values of the scatter index of wave parameters and wind speed appear to be at the same level as in semi-enclosed seas on the northern side of the Mediterranean Sea. It is shown that atmospheric simulation correctly reproduces the interaction between synoptic processes and the mountain range extending alongshore. Error sources in wave simulation are discussed. The most significant drawback is the possibility of mesoscale instability in the atmospheric model without assimilation of observation data within the computational domain.     

Wave characteristics and extreme parameters in the Bohai Sea

This paper is aimed at the whole Bohai Sea,as the complement and improvement of wave characteristics and extreme parameters.Wave fields were simulated in the Bohai Sea by using wave model SWAN from 1985 to 2004.The input data based on the hindcast of high-resolution wind fields from RAMS and water level fields from POM,which have been tested and verified well.Comparisons of significant wave heights between simulation and station observations show a good agreement in general.By statistical analysis,the wave characteristics such as significant wave heights, dominant wave directions and their seasonal variations are discussed.In addition,main wave extreme parameters and directional extreme values particularly for 100-year return period are investigated.     

A ten-year data set for fetch- and depth-limited wave growth

This paper presents the key results from a ten-year data set for Lake IJssel and Lake Sloten in The Netherlands, containing information on wind, storm surges and waves, supplemented with SWAN 40.51 wave model results. The wind speeds U₁₀, effective fetches x and water depths d for the data set ranged from 0–24 m s^− 1, 0.8–25 km and 1.2–6 m respectively. For locations with non-sloping bottoms, the range in non-dimensional fetch x? ( = gxU₁₀^− 2) was about 25–80,000, while the range in dimensionless depth d? ( = g d U₁₀^− 2) was about 0.03–1.7. Land–water wind speed differences were much smaller than the roughness differences would suggest. Part of this seems due to thermal stability effects, which even play a role during near-gale force winds. For storm surges, a spectral response analysis showed that Lake IJssel has several resonant peaks at time scales of order 1 h. As for the waves, wave steepnesses and dimensionless wave heights H? ( = gH_m0U₁₀^− 2) agreed reasonably well with parametric growth curves, although there is no single curve to which the present data fit best for all cases. For strongly depth-limited waves, the extreme values of d? (0.03) and H_m0 / d (0.44) at the 1.7 m deep Lake Sloten were very close to the extremes found in Lake George, Australia. For the 5 m deep Lake IJssel, values of H_m0 / d were higher than the depth-limited asymptotes of parametric wave growth curves. The wave model test cases of this study demonstrated that SWAN underestimates H_m0 for depth-limited waves and that spectral details (enhanced peak, secondary humps) were not well reproduced from H_m0 / d = 0.2–0.3 on. SWAN also underestimated the quick wave response (within 0.3–1 h) to sudden wind increases. For the remaining cases, the new [Van der Westhuysen, A.J., Zijlema, M., and Battjes, J.A., 2007. Nonlinear saturation-based whitecapping dissipation in SWAN for deep and shallow water, Coast. Eng., 54, 151–170] SWAN physics yielded better results than the standard physics of Komen, G.J., Hasselmann, S., Hasselmann, K., 1984. On the existence of a fully developed wind-sea spectrum. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 14, 1271–1285, except for persistent overestimations that were found for short fetches. The present data set contains many interesting cases for detailed model validation and for further studies into the evolution of wind waves in shallow lakes.     

Ventilation of the Black Sea pycnocline. Parameterization of convection, numerical simulations and validations against observed chlorofluorocarbon data

Data from field observations and numerical model simulations are used to understand and quantify the pathways by which passive tracers penetrate into the Black Sea intermediate and deep layers. Chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) concentrations measured during the1988 R.V. Knorr cruise show strong decrease with increasing density in the Black Sea and illustrate the very slow rate of ventilation of deep water in this basin. We develop a 3D numerical model based on the Modular Ocean Model (MOM), and calibrate it in a way to produce consistent simulations of observed temperature, salinity and CFCs. One important feature is the implementation of a special parameterization for convection, which is an alternative of the convective adjustment in MOM and handles the penetration of the Bosporus plume into the halocline. The model forcing includes interannually variable wind, heat and water fluxes constructed from Comprehensive Ocean–Atmosphere Data Set and ECMWF atmospheric analysis data and river runoff data. The analysis of observations and simulated data are focused on correlations between thermohaline and tracer fields, dynamic control of ventilation, and the relative contributions of sources at the sea surface and outflow from the Bosporus Strait in the formation of intermediate and deep waters. A simple theory is developed which incorporates the outflow from the strait along with the vertical circulation (vertical turbulent mixing and Ekman upwelling) and reveals their mutual adjustment. The analyses of simulated and observed CFCs demonstrate that most of the CFC penetrating the deep layers has its source at the sea surface within the Black Sea rather than from the Marmara Sea via the Bosporus undercurrent. Under present-day conditions, the surface CFC signals have reached only the upper halocline. Intrusions below 600 m are not simulated. The major pathways of penetration of CFCs are associated with cold-water mass formation sites, Bosporus effluent, as well as with the diapycnal mixing in the area of Rim Current. Future CFC sampling strategies coherent with the unique conditions in the Black Sea are discussed.     

Simulation of the extreme waves generated by typhoon Bolaven (1215) in the East China Sea and Yellow Sea

Record-breaking high waves occurred during the passage of the typhoon Bolaven (1215) (TYB) in the East China Sea (ECS) and Yellow Sea (YS) although its intensity did not reach the level of a super typhoon. Winds and directional wave measurements were made using a range of in-situ instruments mounted on an ocean tower and buoys. In order to understand how such high waves with long duration occurred, analyses have been made through measurement and numerical simulations. TYB winds were generated using the TC96 typhoon wind model with the best track data calibrated with the measurements. And then the wind fields were blended with the reanalyzed synoptic-scale wind fields for a wave model. Wave fields were simulated using WAM4.5 with adjustment of C_d for gust of winds and bottom friction for the study area. Thus the accuracy of simulations is considerably enhanced, and the computed results are also in better agreement with measured data than before. It is found that the extremely high waves evolved as a result of the superposition of distant large swells and high wind seas generated by strong winds from the front/right quadrant of the typhoon track. As the typhoon moved at a speed a little slower than the dominant wave group velocity in a consistent direction for two days, the wave growth was significantly enhanced by strong wind input in an extended fetch and non-linear interaction.     

Numerical study of the marine breeze around Mallorca Island

A study of marine breezes and their impact on the wave field around Mallorca Island was carried out by numerical simulations with the spectral wave model SWAN and three different wind fields: WRF – Weather Research and Forecasting model, HIRLAM – High Resolution Limited Area model and ECMWF – European Center for Medium-range Weather Forecasts. The main characteristics of the modelled breeze circulation and its effects on the wave field are analyzed. The modified wave field under breeze conditions and the correlations with their variability and daily short life time period are studied and discussed by analyzing the spectral balance. The results show that the accuracy of a wave forecast will depend on the quality of the wind field and its ability to simulate the sea breeze induced waves. The study period covers the summers of 2009 and 2010. In addition, to assess the performance of SWAN forced with two different winds the numerically obtained significant wave heights (Hs) are collocated against the ENVISAT-ESA's Environmental Satellite measurements (GLOBWAVE data) of Hs around the Mallorca Island.     

基于四种再分析资料的1988-2015年中国近海月均风速特征评估

This study investigates the long-term changes of monthly sea surface wind speeds over the China seas from 1988 to 2015. The 10-meter wind speeds products from four major global reanalysis datasets with high resolution are used: Cross-Calibrated Multi-Platform data set(CCMP), NCEP climate forecast system reanalysis data set(CFSR),ERA-interim reanalysis data set(ERA-int) and Japanese 55-year reanalysis data set(JRA55). The monthly sea surface wind speeds of four major reanalysis data sets have been investigated through comparisons with the longterm and homogeneous observation wind speeds data recorded at ten stations. The results reveal that(1) the wind speeds bias of CCMP, CFSR, ERA-int and JRA55 are 0.91 m/s, 1.22 m/s, 0.62 m/s and 0.22 m/s, respectively.The wind speeds RMSE of CCMP, CFSR, ERA-int and JRA55 are 1.38 m/s, 1.59 m/s, 1.01 m/s and 0.96 m/s,respectively;(2) JRA55 and ERA-int provides a realistic representation of monthly wind speeds, while CCMP and CFSR tend to overestimate observed wind speeds. And all the four data sets tend to underestimate observed wind speeds in Bohai Sea and Yellow Sea;(3) Comparing the annual wind speeds trends between observation and the four data sets at ten stations for 1988-1997, 1988–2007 and 1988–2015, the result show that ERA-int is superior to represent homogeneity monthly wind speeds over the China seaes.     

Negative correlations of variations in near-water wind and surface wind waves

The relationship between the intensity of surface wind waves and near-water wind is analyzed. The data of measuring wind waves and near-water wind under natural conditions in the Black Sea (July 2004) and Norwegian Sea (June 2003, 16th cruise of the R/V Akademik Sergei Vavilov) are used. A phenomenon of negative correlations has been found between the intensity of wind waves and near-water wind in regions of substantial restructuring of wind waves in the field of inhomogeneous flows: wind-wave amplification during wind decay and vice versa. Examples of such observations are presented, a theoretical model is constructed for the observed phenomenon, and a good agreement is obtained between theory and experiment.     

运用SWAN数值模拟对渤海波浪极值参数的研究(英文)

本文以高分辨率后报风场资料为输入,采用SWAN波浪模式,模拟了渤海海域1985年至2004年共20年间的波浪场。通过有效波高数据的比较,可看出波浪数值结果与实测资料符合较好,可以用数值结果分析渤海海域的波浪特征。利用计算的年极值波要素,本文给出并分析了渤海海域不同重现期下的极值参数分布情况。     

南海北部海区波高与厄尔尼诺关系探究

以欧洲中期天气预报中心的23年再分析风场数据为基础,采用HIRHAM风场模式和SWAN海浪模型对南海北部海域的波浪场进行推算,并将南海北部海域的有效波高与厄尔尼诺指数作对比,探究两者的关系,分析结论如下：（1）南海海域波高具有较强的季节性变化特征,冬季波高大于夏季波高;（2）南海北部海域月平均波高与Niño3.4指数呈负相关,大部分海域呈中度相关,台湾和菲律宾之间的部分海域呈高度相关;（3）在强厄尔尼诺年,南海北部海域的有效波高明显偏小,且厄尔尼诺指数变化越大,波高越小;反之,在强拉尼娜年,南海北部海域的有效波高较大。