Sensitivity of wave model predictions to wind fields in the Western Mediterranean sea

The paper compares the wave hindcast in the Western Mediterranean sea using the reanalysis wind fields from HIPOCAS and ERA-40 from ECMWF for November 2001. The study has concentrated on the Mediterranean coast of Spain where there are known difficulties with the wind and wave modelling. Two winter storms have been compared. The main differences between the significant wave heights using the ERA-40 reanalysis (ECMWF) and HIPOCAS reanalysis winds were observed to increase when moving southwards in the geographical domain at the offshore locations. Systematic negative biases of Hs were obtained with the ERA-40 data at all the coastal locations analyzed, whereas positive biases are typical for the HIPOCAS reanalysis. For offshore and coastal locations when using the ERA-40 data the Hs biases increased moving to South, while this pattern was not so clear for the HIPOCAS data. The inconsistencies in the comparisons of modelled waves against measurements seem to be associated with the quality of the wind fields.     

Diffusion reduction in an arbitrary scale third generation wind wave model

The numerical schemes for the geographic propagation of random, short-crested, wind-generated waves in third-generation wave models are either unconditionally stable or only conditionally stable. Having an unconditionally stable scheme gives greater freedom in choosing the time step (for given space steps). The third-generation wave model SWAN (“Simulated WAves Nearshore”, Booij et al., 1999) has been implemented with this type of scheme. This model uses a first order, upwind, implicit numerical scheme for geographic propagation. The scheme can be employed for both stationary (typically small scale) and nonstationary (i.e. time-stepping) computations. Though robust, this first order scheme is very diffusive. This degrades the accuracy of the model in a number of situations, including most model applications at larger scales. The authors reduce the diffusiveness of the model by replacing the existing numerical scheme with two alternative higher order schemes, a scheme that is intended for stationary, small-scale computations, and a scheme that is most appropriate for nonstationary computations. Examples representative of both large-scale and small-scale applications are presented. The alternative schemes are shown to be much less diffusive than the original scheme while retaining the implicit character of the particular SWAN set-up. The additional computational burden of the stationary alternative scheme is negligible, and the expense of the nonstationary alternative scheme is comparable to those used by other third generation wave models. To further accommodate large-scale applications of SWAN, the model is reformulated in terms of spherical coordinates rather than the original Cartesian coordinates. Thus the modified model can calculate wave energy propagation accurately and efficiently at any scale varying from laboratory dimensions (spatial scale O(10 m) with resolution O(0.1 m)), to near-shore coastal dimension (spatial scale O(10 km) with resolution O(100 m)) to oceanic dimensions (spatial scale O(10 000 km) with resolution O(100 km).     

Validation of the WAMC4 wave model for the Black Sea

The present paper describes the set-up and application of the third-generation wave model — WAM Cycle 4 to the Black Sea. The wind fields are calculated by a regional atmosphere model (REMO), which was driven with the conditions from the global NCEP re-analysis project. These atmospheric data are used to force the state-of-the-art WAM model. The validation is done by comparison of wave model output against directional buoy measurements registered at three deep-water locations and wave gauge data taken at a point in intermediate depth near the Black Sea coast. The results reveal that agreement between modeled and measured data is satisfactory and the quality of the simulations increases under more energetic and severer wind and wave conditions. Following the validation, a 41-year wave hindcast was implemented spanning the period 1958–1998.     

Anisotropy of wind and wave regimes in the Baltic proper

The directional distribution of moderate and strong winds in the Baltic Sea region is shown to be strongly anisotropic. The dominating wind direction is south-west and a secondary peak corresponds to north winds. North-west storms are relatively infrequent and north-east storms are extremely rare. Angular distribution of extreme wind speed also has a two-peaked shape with maxima corresponding to south-west and north winds, and a deep minimum for easterly winds. The primary properties of the anisotropy such as prevailing winds, frequency of their occurrence, directional distribution of mean and maximum wind speeds coincide on both sides of the Baltic proper. The specific wind regime penetrates neither into the mainland nor into the Gulf of Finland or the Gulf of Riga.Properties of the saturated wave field in the neighbourhood of proposed sites of the Saaremaa (Ösel) deep harbour are analysed on the basis of the wave model WAM forced by steady winds. The directional distribution of wave heights in typical and extreme storms is highly anisotropic. Remarkable wave height anomalies may occur in the neighbourhood of the harbour sites.     

基于SWAN模式的南海台风浪推算的影响因素分析

基于南海实际地形和真实的台风过程,对影响SWAN模式在南海台风浪推算中的准确性的因素进行了较系统的研究。首先对不同的模型风场进行了对比分析,结果表明一个准确的风场是正确推算台风浪的关键。同时对SWAN模式中的白冠耗散作用、风能输入与白冠耗散不同的组合方式和折射项作用等因素对台风浪推算的影响进行分析,并对模式中的各影响因素给出了合理建议。使得SWAN模式在南海台风浪推算中具有更好的适用性。     

Impact of mega-scale sand extraction on tidal dynamics in semi-enclosed basins: An idealized model study with application to the Southern North Sea

Long-term considerations of repeated and increasing sand extraction on the Netherlands Continental Shelf (North Sea) may lead to the creation of a mega-scale extraction trench in front of the Dutch coast (length hundreds of km, width over 10 km, depth several m). We investigate the impact of such a huge topographic intervention on tidal dynamics, which is a key aspect in hydrodynamics, and indirectly also affecting morphodynamics and ecology.     

The performance of the Black Sea Commission as a collaborative governance regime

It is often claimed that the Black Sea is one of the most degraded seas in the world. Management to rehabilitate the Black Sea requires cooperation between the coastal countries to be successful. However, regional cooperation in the Black Sea is poorly coordinated and lack concrete outcomes. This article analyses the performance of the Black Sea Commission in terms of enabling and fostering effective regional collaboration between the Black Sea coastal countries. The results indicate that the measures undertaken by the Black Sea Commission are effective in terms of enabling scientific and project based cooperation between the Black Sea countries. The cooperation around regional and national institutional reforms to tackle the Black Sea environmental problems is found to be weak. Despite the existing mechanisms and willingness of countries to cooperate, the implementation of the established strategic action plan for the environmental protection and rehabilitation of the Black Sea is limited. Most of the limitations of the Black Sea Commission's regime are found in its institutional and legal frameworks, which constrain the effectiveness of collaborative efforts of the Black Sea countries. To be fully functional, the collaborative governance regime of the Black Sea Commission has to be improved. Recommendations as to how these may be addressed to enhance the regime's capacity to ensure effective marine collaborative governance in the region are presented in this article.     

Numerical simulation and preliminary analysis of typhoon waves during three typhoons in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea

In this study,typhoon waves generated during three typhoons(Damrey(1210),Fung-wong(1416),and Chan-hom(1509))in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were simulated in a simulating waves nearshore(SWAN)model,and the wind forcing was constructed by combining reanalyzed wind data with a Holland typhoon wind model.Various parameters,such as the Holland fitting parameter(B)and the maximum wind radius?,were investigated in sensitivity experiments in the Holland model that affect the wind field construction.Six different formulations were considered and the parameters determined by comparing the simulated wind results with in-situ wind measurements.The key factors affecting wave growth and dissipation processes from deep to shallow waters were studied,including wind input,whitecapping,and bottom friction.Comparison with in-situ wave measurements suggested that the KOMEN scheme(wind input exponential growth and whitecapping energy dissipation)and the JONSWAP scheme(dissipation of bottom friction)resulted in good reproduction of the significant wave height of typhoon waves.A preliminary analysis of the wave characteristics in terms of wind-sea and swell wave revealed that swell waves dominated with the distance of R to the eye of the typhoon,while wind-sea prevailed in the outer region up to six to eight times the R values despite a clear misalignment between wind and waves.The results support the hypothesis that nonlinear wave-wave interactions may play a key role in the formation of wave characteristics.     

南海北部波浪特征分析

利用南海北部近海区域(20°36.298′N,110°45.433′E)于2012年至2013年的波浪实测资料,统计分析了其波浪特征,为海洋工程建设和波浪能利用提供基本波浪参数。统计结果表明,南海北部年平均有效波高为1.2m,周年平均十分之一部分大波波高为1.5m,年平均周期4.0s,周年最大平均有效波高为4.97m,周年最大平均十分之一部分大波波高为7.34m,常浪向为E向,次常浪向为ENE向。强浪向为E向,次强浪向为ESE向。     

Wave hindcasting by coupling numerical model and artificial neural networks

By coupling numerical wave model (NWM) and artificial neural networks (ANNs), a new procedure for wave prediction is proposed. In many situations, numerical wave modeling is not justified due to economical consideration. Although incorporation of an ANN model is inexpensive, such a model needs a long time period of wave data for training, which is generally inconvenient to achieve. A proper combination of these two methods could carry the potentials of both. Based on the proposed approach, wave data are generated by a NWM by means of a short period of assumed winds at a concerned point. Then, an ANN is designed and trained using the above-mentioned generated wind-wave data. This ANN model is capable of mapping wind-velocity time series to wave height and period time series with low cost and acceptable accuracy. The method was applied for wave hindcasting to two different sites; Lake Superior and the Pacific Ocean. Simulation results show the superiority of the proposed approach.     

Variations in the Baltic Sea wave fields

The surface waves in the Baltic Sea are hindcast with the spectral wave model HYPAS during a 12-month period. The model results show a strong temporal and spatial variation in the wave field due to the physical dimensions of the different basins and the predominant wind field. The highest waves in the area are found in the outer part of Skagerrak, as well as in the central and southern parts of the Baltic Proper. To get significant waves above 6 m high, strong winds (15–20 m/s) must have been blowing for 6 to 24 h from a favourable direction over a deep area.     

Wave grouping characteristics in nearshore Great Lakes

The recently advanced approach of wavelet transform is applied to the analysis of wave data measured in the nearshore areas of the Great Lakes. The conventional spectrum analysis of wave time series in the frequency domain can be readily generalized to the frequency and time domain using the wavelet transform. The traditional Fourier transform approach has not been able to directly assess the time localized nature of wave groups. With the application of wavelet transformation, the relatively unexplored wave grouping characteristics come to light as the predominant feature of wave processes.     

黄、渤海冷空气海浪场的集合预报试验

利用欧洲集合天气预报系统51个预报风场驱动SWAN海浪模式,对黄、渤海2013年12月-2014年2月期间受冷空气影响的海浪场进行数值模拟试验,并利用浮标观测资料对海浪集合预报结果进行初步检验分析,结果显示:从逐时平均偏差结果可知,24h预报时效内集合平均与控制预报性能相近,48~72h预报时效内,集合平均明显优于控制预报,但均比实况偏小;集合分位值(75、90百分位值和极端值)明显优于集合平均,且预报时效越长,优势越明显,集合预报极端值与实况相当或略偏大;从逐24h平均偏差结果可知,集合分位值(75、90百分位值和极端值)比集合平均和控制预报更接近实况。总的分析表明:集合分位值(75、90百分位值和极端值)对受冷空气影响的海浪场具有较强的分辨能力,可以提高对海浪场的预报水平,且有较好的应用潜力。     

Evaluation of two spectral wave models for wave hindcasting in the Mackenzie Delta

Climate change, reduced sea ice and increased ice-free waters over extended areas for longer summer periods potentially lead to increased wave energy in the Beaufort Sea (Wang et al., 2015; Khon et al., 2014) [1], [2], which is a major concern for coastal and offshore engineering activities. We compare two spectral wave models SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) and MIKE 21 SW (hereafter MIKE21) in simulations of storm-generated waves in the Mackenzie Delta region of the southern Beaufort Sea. SWAN model simulations are performed using two nested grids system, whereas MIKE21 uses an unstructured grid system. Forcing fields are defined by hourly hindcast winds. Moving ice edge boundaries are incorporated during storm simulations. Modelled wave spectra from four storms are shown to compare well with field observations. Two established whitecapping formulations in SWAN are investigated: one dependent on mean spectral wave steepness, and the other on local spectral steepness. For the Beaufort Sea study area, we suggest that SWAN wave simulations using the latter local spectral steepness formulation are better than those using the former mean spectral steepness formulation. MIKE21 simulations also tend to agree with SWAN results using the latter whitecapping formulation.     

Wave modelling - The state of the art

This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered.The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, nonlinear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, nonlinear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments.     

Is the wind wave frequency spectrum outdated

This paper presents a detailed examination of the practice of using the frequency spectrum to characterize wind waves. In particular, the issue of stationarity and Gaussian random process in connection with wind wave studies is addressed. We describe a test for nonstationarity based on the wavelet spectrum. When this test is applied to wind wave time series, the results significantly diverge from those expected for a Gaussian random process, thus casting critical doubts on the conventional concept of the wind wave frequency spectrum.     

Further evidence of abrupt Holocene drowning of the Black Sea shelf

A 1999 survey of the Black Sea continental shelf off the north central Turkish seaport of Sinop using a side-scan sonar, small remotely operated vehicles, and a series of dredge lowerings located, inspected and sampled an exposed high-energy paleoshoreline at a depth of 155 m. Radiocarbon dating of mollusk shells collected from this ancient beach revealed that the marine flooding of the Black Sea took place between 7460 and 6820 yr B.P. (all ages are reported in radiocarbon years, not calendar years, without correction for reservoir age or dendro-calibration) changing it from a lacustrine to marine environment. This relic surface remained in contact with the bottom waters of the Black Sea for a long period of time before being draped by a thin layer of sapropel mud. Wood samples recovered from this same location were very well preserved and yielded dates as old as 3580 yr B.P.     

Field verification of quasi-determinism theory for wind waves in the space-time domain

Profiles of exceptionally large waves in wind seas were obtained using a gauge array that was nearly aligned in the dominant wave direction; the length of these profiles ranged from 1.5 to 3.0 times the dominant wavelength. The profiles were also obtained through calculations using the quasi-determinism theory from the datasets of the sea states. The possibility to observe waves in the space-time domain enables us to obtain a remarkable confirmation of the quasi-determinism theory.     

Sulfate reduction below the sulfate-methane transition in Black Sea sediments

A sudden increase in salinity about 7000 years ago caused a shift in the deposited sediments of the Black Sea from limnic to brackish-marine. Due to the development of an anoxic deep water basin and a relatively high sulfate concentration, organic matter is mineralized primarily through sulfate reduction in modern Black Sea sediments. Earlier studies showed that sulfate-reducing bacteria are abundant within the limnic sub-surface sediment in spite of extremely low concentrations of sulfate and organic carbon. A main objective of the present study was therefore to understand the depth distribution of sulfate reduction across the different sediment units, even deep below the sulfate-methane transition. Our study combined experimental measurements of sulfate reduction using ³⁵S radiotracer with analyses of sulfur and iron geochemistry in pore water and sediment. Potential sulfate reduction rates were measured with ³⁵S in sediment samples that were amended with sulfate and organic substrates and incubated in time-series up to 48 h. Sulfate reduction could thereby be detected and quantified at depths where concentrations of sulfate were otherwise too low to enable calculation of the rates. The results demonstrate that sulfate-reducing bacteria are active several meters below the sulfate-methane transition in Black Sea sediments. The cryptic sulfate reduction below the sulfate-methane transition may be driven by sulfate produced from re-oxidation of reduced sulfur species with oxidized iron minerals buried in the deep limnic sediment.     

Wave parameters and functions in wavelet analysis

A preliminary study of wave parameters and functions in wavelet analysis is conducted in this paper. The Morlet wavelet transform is used to calculate the time–frequency wavelet energy density function, its volume (i.e. the total energy), its frequency-integral (i.e. the wavelet smoothed instantaneous wave energy history), its time-integral (i.e. the wavelet spectral density function), and two non-dimensional wave indices (NIF, NIT). The processing of the measured wave data obtained from the Chi-Gu coastal observation tower during the period August 2000 to July 2001 indicates that the inter-comparison of wavelet smoothed instantaneous wave energy history and smoothed instantaneous wave energy history (SIWEH) as defined by Funke and Mansard (Proc 17th Int Conf on Ocean Eng, 1980) can reveal the noise structure of the wave signal. The wave data with index NIF greater than 2 is always accompanied with noise, therefore NIF can be used as one of the data quality criteria. The index NIT is linearly correlated with the significant wave period and with the significant wave height, therefore NIT can be used to study the wave growth and decaying phenomena.