Approximate wave force analysis on rectangular caissons

An approximate analytical analysis is demonstrated in this research note to obtain the approximate wave forces on rectangular caissons fixed vertically on the sea-bed. A data plot has been depicted to show the effect of linear forces for the case of rectangular caissons and that for the case of square caissons.     

Dynamic response of marine risers by single wave and spectral analysis methods

This paper uses the Galerkin method in the solution of the marine riser differential equation and compares the dynamic bending stresses in a tension-leg-platform riser calculated by the linearised single wave and linearised spectral analysis methods.The results show that it is possible to make some rational assessment of approximate peak values of bending stress in the spectral method.The analysis methods are applicable to any riser system subject to horizontal exciting forces due to fluid and vessel motion.     

极值波高Weibull分布的参数估计方法对比分析

介绍了三参数威布尔分布及其4种参数估计方法：极大似然估计法、相关系数优化法、灰色估计法和概率权重矩法。利用蒙特卡罗法对以上参数估计方法进行不同样本尺度的模拟,通过偏差、标准差和均方误差对比分析各种方法的特点、精度和适用性。运用上述方法结合涠洲站34a实测年极值波高,推算涠洲岛的设计波高,从相关系数、均方根误差和Q统计值分析各种方法的差异及优劣性。结果表明,小样本情况下各估计法的差别较大,而大样本时差别较小,极大似然估计法能较好拟合各种大小的样本,相关系数优化法次之;选取合适的经验频率会提高参数估计精度;各种参数估计方法计算而得的设计波高相差不大,其中极大似然估计法的精度最高     

Approximate Stream Function wavemaker theory for highly non-linear waves in wave flumes

An approximate Stream Function wavemaker theory for highly non-linear regular waves in flumes is presented. This theory is based on an ad hoc unified wave-generation method that combines linear fully dispersive wavemaker theory and wave generation for non-linear shallow water waves. This is done by applying a dispersion correction to the paddle position obtained for non-linear long waves. The method is validated by a number of wave flume experiments while comparing with results of linear wavemaker theory, second-order wavemaker theory and Cnoidal wavemaker theory within its range of application.     

泉州湾波浪分布特征研究

本文通过对福建泉州湾内实测波浪资料的统计分析,阐述了湾内波浪随季节变化的分布特征及生成机制,综合分析了湾内波型的周年分布特征及各波要素间的相关关系,讨论了台风期间湾内波浪的演变过程。认为海湾内的波浪除受季风影响外,更主要的是受外海传入的海浪的影响。     

Approximate calculation of oblique wave transmission from a single-row of rectangular piles

Transmissions of oblique incident wave from a row of rectangular piles are analyzed theoretically. The incident angle of plane wave is taken as , there then is the transmission coefficient (This is a paradox). In this paper, by means of the approximate relation between the transmitted and incident wave angle found from the shape of a slit, the paradoxical phenomenon is removed. On the basis of the continuality of the pressure and flux and the analysis of flow resistance at the row of rectangular piles, formulas of reflection and transmission coefficients are obtained. The transmission and reflection coefficients predicted by the present model quite agree with those of laboratory experiments in previous references     

A weakly non-gaussian model of wave height distribution for random wave train

The wave height distribution with Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation are investigated. The results show that a non-Gaussian model of wave height distribution reasonably agrees with experimental data. It is discussed that the fourth order moment (kurtosis) of water surface elevation corresponds to the first order nonlinear correction of wave heights and is related with wave grouping.     

Probabilistic distribution of the maximum wave height

A new method of treating maximum wave height as a random variable in reliability analysis of breakwater caissons is proposed. The maximum wave height is expressed as the significant wave height multiplied by the so-called wave height ratio.The proposed wave height ratio is a type of transfer function from the significant wave height to the maximum wave height.Under the condition of a breaking wave, the ratio is intrinsically nonlinear. Therefore, the probability density function for the     

Outer wave number spectrum and statistical distribution of apparent wave number vector

Based on the ray theory and Longuet-Higgins’s linear model of sea waves, the joint distribution of wave envelope and apparent wave number vector is established. From the joint distribution, we define a new concept, namely the outer wave number spectrum, to describe the outer characteristics of ocean waves. The analytical form of the outer wave number spectrum, the probability distributions of the apparent wave number vector and its components are then derived. The outer wave number spectrum is compared with the inner wave number spectrum for the average status of wind-wave development corresponding to a peakness factor P = 3. Discussions on the similarity and difference between the outer wave number spectrum and inner one are also presented in the paper.     

A Boussinesq-type wave driver for a morphodynamical model to predict short-term morphology

The prediction of near-shore morphology on the time scale of a storm event and the length scale of a few surf zone widths is an active area of research. Intense wave breaking drives offshore-directed currents (undertow) carrying sediment seawards, resulting in offshore bar migration. In contrast, higher order nonlinear properties, such as wave asymmetry (velocity skewness) and velocity asymmetry, are drivers for shoreward transport. These wave processes are included in phase-resolving models such as Boussinesq-type wave models (e.g., TRITON). Short-wave averaging in the wave model yields wave-induced forces (e.g., radiation stress gradients) and a wave asymmetry term. The wave-induced forces are used in a hydrostatic model (e.g., Delft3D flow module) to drive the current and undertow, resulting in a 3D velocity profile. The wave model and hydrostatic model are coupled online with a morphodynamic model (e.g., Delft3D morphology module). The latter computes, based on the 3D flow profile and the wave asymmetry term, the sediment transport and performs the bathymetry updates. The updates are transferred directly back to the hydrodynamic models. The coupling of the wave model TRITON and the Delft3D modules is validated by comparing against extensive laboratory data sets (LIP and Boers) and a field case (Duck94), and show a good performance for the hydrodynamics and a reasonable/fair performance for the bar movements.     

Analysis of wave groups by wave envelope-phase and the Hilbert Huang transform methods

The wave groups are studied by both conventional wave analysis methods and by the non-stationary Hilbert Huang Transform (HHT) method. Full-scale wave records containing abnormal waves are used. Instantaneous quantities, such as envelope, phase and frequency, are adopted to study the wave grouping. A refined definition of wave group is proposed considering that the wave process is simultaneously amplitude and frequency modulated. The validation of the proposed definition is conducted by analysis of numerical simulation data. Group parameters are proposed based on the time-frequency distribution of energy. An attempt is made to find the relationship between the characteristics of abnormal waves and the group characteristics.     

Forecasting ocean wave energy: The ECMWF wave model and time series methods

Recently, the technology has been developed to make wave farms commercially viable. Since electricity is perishable, utilities will be interested in forecasting ocean wave energy. The horizons involved in short-term management of power grids range from as little as a few hours to as long as several days. In selecting a method, the forecaster has a choice between physics-based models and statistical techniques. A further idea is to combine both types of models. This paper analyzes the forecasting properties of a well-known physics-based model, the European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Wave Model, and two statistical techniques, time-varying parameter regressions and neural networks. Thirteen data sets at locations in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and the Gulf of Mexico are tested. The quantities to be predicted are the significant wave height, the wave period, and the wave energy flux. In the initial tests, the ECMWF model and the statistical models are compared directly. The statistical models do better at short horizons, producing more accurate forecasts in the 1-5 h range. The ECMWF model is superior at longer horizons. The convergence point, at which the two methods achieve comparable degrees of accuracy, is in the area of 6 h. By implication, the physics-based model captures the underlying signals at lower frequencies, while the statistical models capture relationships over shorter intervals. Further tests are run in which the forecasts from the ECMWF model are used as inputs in regressions and neural networks. The combined models yield more accurate forecasts than either one individually.     

Extreme wave crest distribution by direct numerical simulations of long-crested nonlinear wave fields

The wave crest height qualification checks are required during the wave calibration before the model test in wave basin. However, the reliable criteria of nonlinear wave crest probability distribution in 3-h duration (full-scale) has not been well established yet. We investigate wave crest-height statistics of long-crested nonlinear wave fields using high-order spectral (HOS) method, which can take the effects of both second-order bound waves and third-order free waves into account. The energy dissipation effects due to wave breaking were included by employing an eddy viscosity model. Sensitivity analyses to the wave breaking onset criterion have been performed. Validation is provided by comparing the obtained numerical results with the available calibration test data. Based on extensive and direct numerical simulations, semi-empirical single realization distributions for wave calibration have been developed through 3-parameter Weibull fitting and systematic regression analyses. Particular attention has been paid to the tail of upper bound of wave crest distributions. The effects of wave steepness and water depth on the maximum wave crest height in 3-h duration have been examined. It is found that with the increase of wave steepness, the extreme wave crest height increases until it reaches a critical value. In addition, for the scale water depth k_ph < 1.36, the maximum crest height decreases as the water depth increases, while in the opposite case the maximum crest height increases as the water depth increases. Moreover, it is confirmed that that the fourth-order nonlinearity does not have significant effects on the distribution of the wave crest height.     

Use of advanced directional wave spectra analysis methods

Frequency-dependent cross-spectral parameters for pitch-roll buoy data and parameters that describe directional wave spectra based on a directional Fourier series are developed by the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) and other organizations that collect wave data. The World Meteorological Organization (WMO) specifies wave data product formats in its Wave Observation (FM 65 WAVEOB) code. Other organizations, such as the US Army Corps of Engineers Field Wave Gaging Program (FWGP), have similar specifications. A directional Fourier series has poor directional resolution compared with advanced methods such as those based on maximum likelihood and maximum entropy. Transformations are developed for applying the advanced methods and working with directional wave information stored in the WMO's FM 65 WAVEOB code, the FWGP's Wave Data Analysis Standard (WDAS) format, and similar codes and formats. Using the transformations, a directional Fourier series expansion method, a Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM), and a Maximum Entropy Method (MEM) are each applied to 115 sets of NDBC directional wave data. The MEM and MLM provide better directional resolution, but the MEM produces artificial double peaks. There are considerable differences for the three used methods. The developed transformation equations enable wave data users to apply the method that best suits their applications.     

Modified Rayleigh distribution of wave heights in transitional water depths

This paper concerns the calculation of wave height exceedance probabilities for nonlinear irregular waves in transitional water depths, and a Transformed Rayleigh method is first proposed for carrying out the calculation. In the proposed Transformed Rayleigh method, the transformation model is chosen to be a monotonic exponential function, calibrated such that the first three moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. The proposed new method has been applied for calculating the wave height exceedance probabilities of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Poseidon platform. It is demonstrated in this case that the proposed new method can offer better predictions than those by using the conventional Rayleigh wave height distribution model. The proposed new method has been further applied for calculating the total horizontal loads on a generic jacket, and its accuracy has once again been substantiated. The research findings gained from this study demonstrate that the proposed Transformed Rayleigh model can be utilized as a promising alternative to the well-established nonlinear wave height distribution models.     

Automated threshold selection methods for extreme wave analysis

The study of the extreme values of a variable such as wave height is very important in flood risk assessment and coastal design. Often values above a sufficiently large threshold can be modelled using the Generalized Pareto Distribution, the parameters of which are estimated using maximum likelihood. There are several popular empirical techniques for choosing a suitable threshold, but these require the subjective interpretation of plots by the user.In this paper we present a pragmatic automated, simple and computationally inexpensive threshold selection method based on the distribution of the difference of parameter estimates when the threshold is changed, and apply it to a published rainfall and a new wave height data set. We assess the effect of the uncertainty associated with our threshold selection technique on return level estimation by using the bootstrap procedure. We illustrate the effectiveness of our methodology by a simulation study and compare it with the approach used in the JOINSEA software. In addition, we present an extension that allows the threshold selected to depend on the value of a covariate such as the cosine of wave direction.     

一种新的非线性波浪周期概率分布

在最大熵原则的基础上,通过解一条件变分问题,导出一种新的适用于描述非线性波浪周期T统计分布的概率密度函数.这种概率分布有如下的优越性:(1)该分布的参数是由无因次周期的m(m为正数)阶分布矩得出,从而周期的信息熵达到最大,故适用于描述波浪周期的非线性;(2)该分布有4个参数,从而更能符合最大熵原则;(3)该分布形式简单...     

Influence of wave approach angle on TLP's response

The current study focuses on the response analysis of triangular tension leg platform (TLP) for different wave approach angles varying from 0° through 90° and its influence on the coupled dynamic response of triangular TLPs. Hydrodynamic loading is modeled using Stokes fifth-order nonlinear wave theory along with various other nonlinearities arising caused by change in tether tension and change in buoyancy caused by set down effect. Low frequency surge oscillations and high frequency tension oscillations of tethers are ignored in the analysis. Results show that wave approach angle influences the coupled dynamic response of triangular TLP in all degrees of freedom except heave. Response in roll and sway degrees of freedom are activated which otherwise are not present in TLP's response to unidirectional waves. Pitch and roll responses are highly stochastic in nature indicating high degree of randomness. Variation in surge, sway and heave responses are nonlinear and are not proportional to change in wave height for the same period.